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  1. I would much appreciate the PDF as I do not have access to the manual itself. Now the question is how does that action take plac. Through this site or via private email? Please advise.


    1. alross2


      Hi Joe,


      I would think email, as I don't see any file section here.  Mine is alross2@aol.com.




  2. Instead of tied ratlines, the WYOMING had round slats of either wood or metal. Now, I could just include lots of brass rod in the kit and let you cut and place them individually.... However, that would be outside my normal level of cruelty, so I'm including strips of laser-cut slats on .030" laser board. There are two widths as the forecastle ratlines were across three shrouds and the rest of the masts across two shrouds. All you have to do is remove the strip from the carrier sheet, trim to length, slather the back of the strip with glue, and set it on the shrouds. When the glue has dried, yo
  3. For the moment, this is the generic mast assembly drawing showing block sizes and types. The forecastle and spanker masts have additional blocks and these will be apparent in the running rigging plan. Things may change as more drawings are developed.
  4. Just stumbled onto this thread. That's a MK56 gun mount, which I've not seen mounted on a MK1. I have the NAVORD manual for it in PDF format. It contains detailed drawings of the mount and I can upload it for you if this format can handle PDFs.
  5. Got this done today. If you're wondering about the numbering system, F before a number is a stock britannia casting or machined brass piece, FWY is a casting made specifically for this kit, LWY is a laser-cut piece specifically for WYOMING, and PEWY is a photo-etched part specifically for WYOMING. All of the plans are accompanied by building/assembly instructions in the manual. For a kit of this complexity, the manuals typically run 50 or more pages.
  6. Drawings from the other two kits in progress. These are pretty much finished, although I will probably tweak them a bit as I build. There's always the opportunity for the "You dummy, what were you thinking when you designed that?" realization when you actually start putting things together.
  7. Switching back and forth on the three projects, but mostly on WYOMING. Here's a page I finished up today. Photoetch for OREGON is almost ready for etching, so I hope to have that in a few weeks. Once that is in hand, I can get back on OREGON and start putting up some in-process photos.
  8. Unless you intend to do a lot of lasering, you'd be far better off having it done by a service provider.
  9. Looking good, Paul. There are a lot of relatively small laser-cut pieces to the pilot house, so take your time. On the display model in the gallery, I left the roof off. I reduced a copy of that Raquel Welch poster from "One Million Years BC" and hung it over the bunk in the captain's cabin.
  10. The manuals are only 8.5 x 11 and also spiral-bound. Here are two facing pages from the OLYMPIA manual, which I wrote about 15 years ago. The regular sheet size for WYOMING plans would be about 36" x 66"!
  11. Now that I'm using a computer drawing program rather than ink on mylar, I've changed the format for BlueJacket kits, beginning with the MORGAN cross section. I'd like some observations on the concept, good or bad. Essentially, the general arrangement drawings and (probably) rigging plans will be printed full scale on large sheets as before. But all of the subassemblies (deck houses, stacks, guns, boats, fittings, etc.) will be on 11" x 17" sheets in a spiral-bound packet. All subassemblies will be full size or identified by scale (if different from original) Schematics will not be to scal
  12. The original mylar for MGB75 is in 1/32 scale on a 24" x 36" sheet. We have a scanner at work that will take 36" wide sheets, so I might scan it some day. This is sheet 2.
  13. I went to a Catholic high school 61-65 and had the same problem. While we didn't have any shop courses and were tracked, the college group wasn't allowed to take typing (business track). I had to fight with them to allow me to take typing, arguing that college term papers had to be typed. Took awhile, but they relented.
  14. The MGB in my original post was drawn with 3x0 and 4x0 Rapidograph pens. That particular print of the MTB drawing used .5 line weight, The "hairline" weight is much nicer, but is very light, making it hard to see in a book. The line weights are scalable and you can get an even finer line than "hairline" and mix line weights on the drawing. Using a different drawing (1/96 original), in order: hairline, color, and .5, all with black outline.
  15. I drew with pens on mylar from the late 1970s up to a couple years ago. Never had any classes and I'm sure some of the things I did would horrify a true draftsperson, but I got by. Now, I use Corel Draw, which is the program used by our laser at BJ. Before, I would draw up the parts by hand, then Bill would have to draw them in Corel, which was not an efficient way to do things. I bit the bullet and learned Corel, which made my design work much more efficient and saved us a lot of time (and sometimes guesswork). Now, I use it exclusively. Perhaps the feature I appreciate mos
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