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alross2

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  1. You go, Mark! If I get a call from someone having a problem with one of the kits I developed, first thing I ask them is whether they read the instructions. If not, I tell them to back and read them, then call me. Because there is so much laser and photo-etch, there is a specific sequence to be followed that isn't necessarily intuitive. I used to develop training materials and procedures for the nuclear power industry and taught technical writing at a college.
  2. Let's be honest; not everyone reads and follows instructions. While this isn't a good idea in kits with lots of premade parts, it happens. So, one of the challenges in kit design is to tailor your illustrations for this potential situation. While thinking about the text for this process, I realized that the initial illustration (while just fine if you read the instructions) might be better if it mimicked the text more closely. Thus, the second illustration.
  3. First coat of white primer this morning. Prior to that, I had just mounted the PE torpedo tube covers and the 6 pdr hull casemates and hinges.
  4. Thanks, Ron. The centerline for the 6 pdr casemate is also that for the armor belt and that will be stated in the instructions.
  5. This information is from John Lambert and my ALLIED COASTAL FORCES OF WWII, Volume 2, and was taken directly from ELCO drawings, of which I have hundreds. PT103-196, 314-367, 372-383 had planked decks. PT486-563, 565 on had plywood decks.
  6. I have the following Anatomy of the Ship books for sale. All are the original Conway Maritime Press LTD. hardbounds except QUEEN MARY, which is USNIP. I've had them for about 30 years, but they've only been looked through a few times. The bindings still make that "like new" cracking sound. Prices include shipping by Media Mail. Payment through PayPal only, plz. The 20-gun ship BLANDFORD – Goodwin, 1988 (ISBN 0-85177-469-5) SOLD The 100-gun ship VICTORY – McKay, 1987 (ISBN 0-85177-444-X) SOLD The 74-gun ship BELLONA – Lavery, 1985 (ISBN 0-85177
  7. Maybe it's just the camera angle, but it seems like the area between the two red lines is straight rather than an arc. Is it the same on the other side? Scarfing on a short piece about 3/16" or so wide between the lines then fairing it would probably solve the issue.
  8. Hopefully, the front torpedo tube slides are not glued on. They're backwards. What's supposed to be the training gearbox is supposed to be inboard.
  9. This one required some rework, but should be OK now. It shows the layout of the hammock storage structure. The gunner's grates are only 3/8" x 1/2", but are photo-etched and have the holes completely through. When not in use, they folded down. The pale yellow on the lower section represents silkspan which is used to simulate the canvas curtain over the hammock storage.
  10. Here's the prop shaft and strut alignment jig in use. The assembled jig Aligning the prop shaft boss. Slot cut for the strut. Strut in place. Strut and boss aligned.
  11. I always cut a slot for the bilge keels as it is sturdier than just gluing them to the surface of the hull. After using the marking jig and using the batten to form a fair curve, I cut along the curve at about a 45 degree angle with a hobby knife, then use a slot head screwdriver to widen and deepen the knife cut to 1/16" or so. If you take you take your time and don't force it, the screwdriver works well. Once the slot is incised, you can dry fit the bilge keel in place to ensure fairness, adjust the slot if necessary, then glue the bilge keel in place. A bit of filler will take care of a
  12. The pilot house itself is not a complex assembly and is built upside down over a form. The angled cuts at the back of the form are to prevent the sides from sticking to it when they are glued together. The sides are .015" laser board, which bends well. The bluish green items are clear styrene strips which will be inserted after the pilot house is assembled and painted.
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