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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. It was seven months ago that I first started to plank the hull below the wales. I'm happy to say that it is now all done. The last few days were spent sanding out the hull planking. I find that I can see dips, rises and other types of fluctuations better when the lights are off and I just use the daylight coming through the window. Sounds crazy, but it really accentuates things better than my indoor lighting. I added the stern post as well. No finish has been applied though that will be done as soon as I re-paint any scuffed areas on the wales and cleanup the keel and knee with a light sanding. Mike
  2. I started to use 6-32 brass inserts on Hayling, but felt that they were too wide for the 12" keel. The 6-32 insert measures about .218 dia. The pilot drill is between a #5-#8 which depends the the hardness of the wood. They work great and are quite easy to install. If you can pilot drill safely into your keel then it would be a great way to go. Mike
  3. Steve, Following up on our recent pm, remember that your not looking to have a completely gray surface after sanding. Use the filler as an color indicator to fill the low spots only. After that you could spray or brush a blanket coat of gray which will make it easier when painting tallow white. Mike
  4. Lovely work, Mark. Those tabbed planks are tricky to do, but fun none the less. It looks like your not simulating the tar between the planks?? Mike
  5. Thank you! Yup, quite a few throwaways. Funny thing though, it always seems to go faster and better the second time around. Mike
  6. Hello and a Happy New year to everyone! I've been making some progress on the hull planking. The last two belts on the starboard side minus one strake are done. As tempting as it was to add the last strake I knew that I would still need a clamping area to adhere to when I start again on the port side. Clamping against the keel doesn't work since the angle of the clamp would pull the plank up and away from the bulkhead. Moving the clamp down five strakes changes the angle of the clamp just enough to hold the plank tight against the bulkhead. I've added a few photos showing the planking detail both fore and aft. All of the sanding so far has been done with Soft Sanders. They are hard foam shapes that you wrap with adhesive backed sandpaper which is supplied by the company. The sandpaper lasts forever it seems. I am using 180 and 320 grit. http://www.softsanders.com/products/wood. I find that these two shapes work well. I cut them into 3" to 5" lengths. They conform to the hull shape allowing for a smooth transition when sanding. Mike
  7. Regarding the two stern filler pieces, here are mine installed. Hope this helps. Mike
  8. Nice work, Chuck! I know you're still undecided, but I'm leaning now towards the blue-gray slate roof rather than natural. Mike
  9. Chuck, you're doing a great job on the QGalleries. Very methodical and neatly done. Did you manage to straighten out the frieze with the name? How is the tissue paper working out? Mike
  10. Love it, Chuck! Could the moldings be added after the frieze is in place in order to hide frieze edge? Mike
  11. Rusty, Check the vertical timbers as well. Not sure how much it matters, but 2 of them are parallel to each other. Mike
  12. The second planking belt, now completed, has proven to be the most difficult one to do so far. I'm told that the last two belts will be much easier to complete which is good news. After seeing Chuck's taped off molding bands that run both through and above the gun ports, I was very curious as to how this would look on my ship. I wanted to know if the gun ports, fixed blocks and sheer were correct. Using measurements taken off the plan drawing I transferred the lower molding position onto the hull (turns out that the lower molding runs parallel to the wales). 1/8" tape was placed onto the hull to simulate the lower molding that runs through the gun ports. After eyeing the run from several positions I could see that some very slight tweaking was needed in order to establish a smooth run. Once satisfied, I added the simulated 3/32" upper molding which runs parallel to the lower molding. I was happy to see that both sides of the hull are almost identical with regard to gun port placement as well as sheer height and shape. Mike
  13. Nicely done, Chuck! Thanks for the heads up on the molding strip widths and using tape to establish a proper run for each. You've peaked my interest in knowing how accurately I have planked that upper section. Mike
  14. I saw Chuck's Winni last week at the house and it looks even better than the photos. . . Mike
  15. Joe, here are my findings regarding the planks going into the stem. . 1. Bevel the outside edge that goes into the stem as well as the inside edge. I find that it's the best way to hide the inside edge of the stem, leaving a nice transition between the plank and stem. 2. I have not found it necessary to bend the plank along its length around a "canister cap" or other round shape. I Just edge bend the plank enough so that its edge conforms nicely to the plank below while at the same time hugging the bulkheads that it crosses. Mike
  16. Chuck, beautiful work as always. I'm a bit behind you on my planking and that's a good thing. Your photos are very helpful, but as always make things seem easier than they really are. Now would be a great time for all those building the Winni to chime in on some of Chuck's expertise in planking techniques. Mike
  17. Looking very nice, Bob. Something that I almost forgot to do was to check the stern framing angle off the plan. Initially I was relying on how the frames sat in the bulkheads. Mike
  18. Yes, Joe, I use a 1 3/8" dowel or hard plastic container to curve the plank along its length. Just dampen, clamp and heat with a hair dryer. The curve can be finessed by hand afterwards. Mike

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