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Everything posted by Stuntflyer

  1. Outstanding work as usual, Chuck. From now on we'll have to call you Laserman. .Forget the other kit guys, they won't even come close to this. I have seen the prototypes you were working on and they blew me away. Those tiny tweaks you've been making sure paid off! Mike
  2. I have finally finished the transom detail. For this kind of work I clamped the hull to the work table with the transom face up above table height. I used the same background paper below the windows as I did above. When fitting the figures that cover areas of molding I decided to notch the figures and leave the molding untouched. Seemed far easier to replace the figures rather than fix misplaced gouges, etc., in the molding. When painting the figures, I lightly rubbed my finger over the high and low areas to achieve a variation in the color depth of the paint. This, alo
  3. Chuck, nice clean work as always! It's good to see you taking time from work to build. Looking forward to chapter 5. . Mike
  4. Thank you, Anthony. Have fun with it and I look forward to following your build. Mike
  5. I decided to take a short break from the transom details in order to complete the framing for the deck coamings. The photos below show the completed work. The first photo is the aft framing followed by the forward framing. My frames are made from boxwood. During frame assembly I tried to keep things squared up and centered on the deck by removing material from both sides of the beam. A number of dry fits with the carlings were needed. Notice how the laser cut mortises are etched on both sides of the beam in order to line up the ledges. I would imagine that this would be a two step
  6. First planking belt: So, other than the center plank, there will be some tapering of the other six planks, dependent on the laying out? Mike
  7. Looking really nice! Can't wait to get there. I wonder how difficult it would be curving the deck planks with boxwood. Looks like it be just a straight taper with edge bending? Mike
  8. Thank you, Chuck. Yes, I used the fruitwood gel stain. No mixing of the stain beforehand. Straight off the top layer of gel that was in the can . It was wiped off immediately and I only needed two coats. Mike
  9. I've been working on a way to get a good fit with the drops. I know that no two hulls are the same, but on my ship it required some experimentation in order to get the front of the drop (tear drop) to fit tight against the hull. I tried using dry heat and manual bending which worked somewhat though not perfectly. The solution. . .? 1. Place a strip masking tape on the wales for paint protection. 2. Remove material from the drop where necessary in order to get as close as possible to a good fit. Concentrate on the back end of the drop where it intersects with the transom. I sa
  10. Small update: Things are moving a bit slowly lately, but I did manage to get some work done. I've been jumping around a bit in the build sequence which seems okay for now. Here are few photos showing where I'm at. Looking at the laser cut sheet one can see that the 5 moldings that run along the top edge of the transom are not all the same width. Only the center molding at the very top is correct. The other 4 are slightly wider and the lower edge of each needs to be reduced in width in order to match the center molding. I found that PVA glue doesn't wo
  11. Don, I like to use wood strips about 1/16" x 3/8" x 10". I adhere sticky back sandpaper to one side that's usually around 180 grit. Works great for doing those long stretches along the hull. For the stern and bow areas I use rounded soft-sanders. http://www.softsanders.com/products/wood Mike
  12. Looking good, Don. Take your time fairing those bulkheads and use the remaining char as a guide while doing so. There won't be much of it left after you are done. Mike
  13. Thank you all! No secret regarding the "perfect spirals". Those are laser etched by the master himself, Chuck. Mike
  14. Chapter three is still a work in progress. I added the friezes to the ship. The sides of the hull were done in sequence while adding the middle molding along the waste and the laser etched molding along the forecastle and quarter deck. The QGallery roofs were painted dark gray and work has started on the QGallery columns and roof rail. The friezes were cut out with the aid of long ships curves. This worked out quite well and I can think of only one edge that had to be done by eye. For adhesion, I used the Elmers School glue stick. When using the stick, I made several passes over th
  15. Beautiful work there, Thomas. Your attention to detail is inspiring. Mike
  16. Looking good! Keep in mind that the friezes will cover some of the planked edges at the ports. The more even (straight) the planked edge, the easier it will be to cut the frieze. Mike
  17. Nicely done, Rusty! Bet your glad that's over with. Now the fun part starts, Qgalleries. Mike
  18. Its been an interesting couple of days. I managed to get one roof sanded to shape and then I added the tiles. The first row of tiles overhangs the roof slightly and touches the molding below. Other than the last tile at the end of each row, I did not reduce the tile widths. With each row, I set the the tops of the tiles to touch each other and then angled them as needed to align into a staggered pattern with the row below. Each row was sanded paper thin at the top and reduced to about a 1/64" at the bottom. Then the next row was added. I also added the molding that sits on top. The molding has
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