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About Tankerman

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  • Gender
  • Location
    South Somerset
  • Interests
    Model ships, static and working radio control.
    Gauge 1 and 0 gauge model railways.
    Model Classic Sports Cars. Classic commercial vehicles.

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  1. Further to your problem in post 88 and the replies from James and Chris, here are the slots to which they refer on my model,
  2. The hull bulkheads of the kit would require a lot of modification in order to fit a motor and stern shaft, as well as space for batteries and associated radio gear, keeping in mind that some access is required for maintenance. The photos show my scratch built hull frame for the motor collier, the M.V. Ballyloran. This is a 1/48th. scale model but the principles are the same and you will see that the motor bedplate and stern tube are fitted at this early stage to ensure an accurate alignment. Should you decide to build the M.V. Brockley Coombe I would recommend a book "British Motor Coasters" by Charles V. Waine which is a very complete history of this type of vessel and where you will find a General Arrangement drawing of M.V. Brockley Coombe and photographs.
  3. I agree, my reading and research on the subject means I have reached the same conclusion as you. Chris
  4. B.E. this book would add more interest in your search for the colour "blue": http://modellbau-muellerschoen.de/Shop-en.htm?fbclid=IwAR1Z1MSLyl5JG6KSoLfZbK_vKumG63wh8itcYxOTGQZ_YBbbTgHVB6Z6zyw but at a price! Chris
  5. I second that Malcolm, it is a great testament to the hard work that Chris and James have put in to the development of this kit and I'm looking forward to the arrival on my doorstep of a big box from The Forest of Dean in the next week or so. Long live Vanguard Models. Chris
  6. This is my most recent plastic kit, the Revell 1/400 "Queen Mary 2" with a Gold Medal Models photo-etch upgrade set and a KA wooden deck set.
  7. No they are not, this month I have had two packages from the EU with no import charges applied, one from the USA and one from Australia with the normally expected charges applied. Please keep politics out of it.
  8. I am not too sure but I think books are free of duty, they are certainly VAT exempt c so you may be lucky.
  9. There is a short section on the Enterprize Class Frigates in Conway's "The First Frigates" by Robert Gardiner containing a list of the vessels in the Enterprize Class and three profile draughts. Chris
  10. I am nowhere near ready to start construction of this kit yet but have been studying the instructions, plans and components from the two boxes. The photo shows one of the many frame component sheets and you can see engraved lines on the frame components that require fairing. My assumption is that each clinker step will need to be filed to the line to achieve fairing - a lengthy but necessary process. Hoping this answers your question ASAT. Chris
  11. Parts E1 and E2 were missing from Box 1 but also sheet 2E from Box 2 when I received my kit. I informed Tom last week and received the replacement parts yesterday. No complaints from me about CAF Model's after sales service. Chris
  12. Kevin, if you refer to profile Plan No.4 you will see a purple line marked from stem to stern. This is the level of the top of the deck clamp upon which the deck beams rest. The deck beams are 6mm. deep and the deck planks are 1.5mm. giving a height of 7.5mm. That is the line marked on Plan No.6 to which you have referred and is at the correct height for the cannon at the gunport. The top horizontal timber you have added at the stern is the wing transom and the three below are filling transoms.The two vertical timbers each side that you have yet to add from the deadwood to the lower filling transom are the "vertical filling pieces". Chris
  13. Sorry Kevin, I had just been corresponding on another web forum with a gentleman named Derek about a Pocher 1/8 scale model car I had built so had the name on my mind. Chris
  14. Derek, try working from for'd and aft towards midship, that way you have space to see what you are doing. On the matter of terminology, the frames that you have assembled in the two jigs are known as the "hawse pieces" or "hawse timbers", the "cant frames" are the half frames nos.1-7 that you have assembled. Chris
  15. I have found it easier to scrape the char off with a Swann Morton No.2 blade on each segment before glueing anything together. Even those frames that require bevelling get this treatment as the char does not then clog up the Proxxon sanding drums. Chris
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