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DaveF

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Everything posted by DaveF

  1. Hi Fletch: He's not on this site but MSB. His name is Cadman there and he is drawing the Constitution to those specs. I know he has done a lot of research into it and been in touch with the curators etc at the museum. Maybe he can help Look under plans section I think. Dave
  2. Hi Wayne and Gary: Its a real pleasure to see the amount of literature that the two of you have collected. I do collect books from time to time, especially books from very hard to aquire sources.But my bigest challenge that I seem to enjoy more is aquiring those books on line. It has taken me many a year to get some of those books. They range from the 16th century to present day. From naval architecture to life aboard a ship. Model construction to model design. You get the idea. I read each one when I get them and organize them into their respected folders. The books I have I value maybe as much as my wife, because she necer complains or says no when I want to buy one. I just have to make up for it when she wants something. My hat goes off to the likes of the two of you. Bibliophiles or not. Now to look for some of those books you mentioned in your posts. Dave
  3. I found out the hard way that I react to epoxy. I used to wear the surgical gloves to continue making aircraft bodies. I akso found that by putting a little cream (balm) in the figure holes it prevented dryness. I agree with the others. I would look at getting the condition checked out. Prevention now or a whole lot of pain later. Dave
  4. It would seem that we can get off topic real easy here. To me since you want to use a certain size plank say 1/4" and the kit supplies a 3/16" plank then obviously it would make sense that the size of the Garboard strake would be altered for the number of runs for the larger plank. Dave
  5. To check calipers is an easy process. The faces you use to measure by wear naturally. the move you touch metal surfaces. But I have also come across new calipers that were not ground properly. First thing to do before any callibration is to close the cliper faces and then hold them up to the light. You should see no gaps or spaces between the anvils. If there is a space then get new ones, if there isn't a space calibrate. Set to zero. If you find any movement in the sliding caliper part( a rocking motion) then they are not adjusted right Everything has to be snug but not over tight. Some have tiny screws on the bottom that can be used for adjustments but be careful that you adjust both EQUALLY or you will always get miss measurement. Dave
  6. I just purchased the 24 tooth saw blade on ebay. All for 10.00 us. I used the 66 tooth for over 2 yrs and no problems. I am hoping the new blade will allow me to cut a little faster and not so rough finish. Oh BTW Shipped same day as I ordered now thats service to me. Dave
  7. I agree with Robin. The 3rd book in the series is invaluable when it comes to the rigging of the French ships. Dave F
  8. The one I saw had 2 little probes on the end and a digital meter on the other. The guy stuck it in and it said what it was . I would assume they are expensive and unless you are doing a lor of wood its not worth investing in. Perhaps a trip to a cabinetry shop my result in them testing it for you. Worth an ask as far as im concerned. Dave
  9. I have cherry cut into planks 1" thick by 6 to 8" wide and what ever length I could get out of a fallen tree. The saw mill guy told me to do what Jud said paint the ends to stop some splitting. I asked him how long to dry and he said it depends on how much moisture content I wanted. If I was doing furniture he said a moisture content from 6 to 12 percent. Oh Yes and he also said I should sticker the planks. HUH? so he explained that it was putting sticks between each plank to let air around the planks evenly as possible. I looked on the net and some places recommend almost a year to dry to those moisture contents. Hope this gives you some useful information Dave
  10. Hi Andy: I have a King Scroll saw and got the book as well. Excellent reference. If you go on line and check out Intarsia wood working. These people use scroll saws exclusively, and the information on various web sites is outstanding. One blade I wound up purchasing and use is a round shaft cutting blade. They have various "teeth". What I like about this is you don't have to move the blade to do work 90 degrees to each cut. Because it is a shaft or round you just move the work in that direction. It took me a while to get used to using this type of blade but I will not use any other. Check out the Intarsia sites and they will tell you where to get the blades. Its been so long since I ordered I cant come across where off hand. Dave
  11. The other option is to use gold leaf. I have seen it done and makes a better looking finish than painting.(which I know I am not good at). Hope this gives you another oprion. Dave
  12. Gentlemen: As a person who has a degenerative eye condition, I wear prisim glasses. I read and work on my models on average 4" from my face. I have read everything so far and you all describe the conditions I have to live with. It's either that or quit reading and building. I would suggest that all of you see an eye doctor before screwing around with your vision. It is a precious thing that the wrong type of loupe or magnifying glasses could screw up. That said the right eye doctor will work with you and tell you what type or style of loupe or magnifyers are ok to use. Buying out of "Walmart" may not be good enough. Sorry to rain on your thread. I am just concerned about peoples eye sight. Dave
  13. Richard Sounds like you have the gist of files. BTW Cross cut tooth sets are used strictly for fast removal of material. Metal or wood As far as diamond, I have never used them so I don't know. Maybe someone else has the answer to that. Dave
  14. Richard All you need to look at are the teeth. A rasp is very course long tooth. It is used primarily on wood. The finer the set of the teeth then you can start mixing materials. I would also tend to look at what the files are made of. If they are just HSS( or High speed steel) they tend to disintergrate with metal. I tend to go with tungsten carbide for metal. Cost more but I still have my original files when I started machining in 74. A good quality set will work on both but you also need to look after them. Brass nails are soft but over time they will slowly chip the set. On metal use a good lubricant on the teeth. Machine oil. On wood use a rubberized square block that lubricates and also prevents build up. Hope this helps Dave
  15. If you are using Autocad there is a program that goes with it called Raster Design. It does what you are asking for. There is no quick conversion programs because all scanned images have faults. These must be corrected before you can convert. pixel dots , lines that are larger, or don't intersect. These are some of the problems. If you go to you tube you can see short vids about what Raster design operates. Not the answer you are looking for but hope it informs you. Dave
  16. Wood workers who make cabinetry have the same problem. When I built my kitchen cabinets I was told and successfully did the following. You seal only the end grain of the board. They make sealers that will seal the wood. Soak in the end grain so that stain will be even. Usimg a rag or brush, only apply enough of the sealer to do just that, seal.Now stain the whole plank. I would suggest trying on scraps of the type of wood you are using until you get an even consistency of the stain. Apply a coat of sealer, not much, and then stain all sides and see the effect. If not happy with this try another sample and add a smaller second coat and try staining again. I know when I did hard maple, one coat wiped with a damp rag did the trick Dave
  17. It doesn't matter size of saw the result is the same. Your wood is binding or twisting at the end of your cut. Questions to ask. Are you using a push stick to move the wood through at end of cut? Important for fingers but twisting occurs. Are you making sure wood is up against fence at all times? It is natural to concentrate on the blade ( because that's where the cutting is ) Burning is usually a sign of misalignment as wood passes between blade and fence. Also check that fence is absolutely parallel to blade. Any misalignment ( .oo1 to .005 on the smaller saws will cause this). How about blade rotation alignment. As the blade turns does it have a wobble. Put a mark on the flat area of the blade close to a tooth. Now put a dial indicator guage at the mark. Rotate the blade by hand. ( unplugged). If the blade has a wobble by more than .003 you will need to shim at the blade hole and arbor to correct. Hope this will help. BTW. Over the years if my saws are heavily used, like ripping a lot of stock, I constantly check the above 1 a month. Dave
  18. What you could do is see if fellow modellers who substituted better line may have what you are looking for. I use what comes in the kit but there might be others who don;t use that thread, Dave
  19. If you look at the stem and stern area, it is advisable to use balsa blocks to aid in glueing the planks on. I always found these areas more trouble than the long runs. Some builders I know, say they get a starved horse look between bulkheads and use blocks as well there. If you glue blocks in, shaping the bulkheads does become easier. But personally I think its more work than I want to do. Dave.
  20. Hi Mike: I got mine from the UK shipping was not expensive It is an Expo Tools 2mm PIN PUSHER 75110 It is not from Model Expo. Wood handle and you can also get an adjustable stop for depth. I felt there was no need for this so I didn't get that. DAve
  21. Hi Mike: I too found the Amati pin pusher lacking. When I did some digging, I found the model railroading people use a pin pusher as well for the tracks. The one I got is very substantial fits into the palm of the hand and is thicker at the business end. They have different sizes for different pins. The other thing I found was the cost was cheaper than Amatis. Now this was approx. 7 or 8 years ago. Hope this helps you. Dave
  22. I do not run DraftSight but I run Autocad 2013 on my Laptop. Until I upgraded my Ram to 6 gig's I founf it sluggish. The Tech guy I use said it was the refresh time that made it slow. Since the upgrade it has worked flawlessly. You might want to look at this. By the way I use windows 8. Dave
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