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DmitriyMarkov

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    Moscow, Russian Federation

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  1. A bit more of a progress: transom planking and fashion pieces some imperfections are "surfacing" on closeups which are not so visible with "unarmed" eye:
  2. That's quite different from what is in my kit. Cannot say for sure is it a "bug" or a "feature" though 🙂 Since all these parts are meant to be painted anyway.
  3. That's why I chose to use pear and boxwood for every purposes other than hull planking - pear holds edges much better. That's something new - in my kit everything is in basswood and there is no plywood at all - seems MS has made changes into complectation of a kit since those days I've purchased it... Concerning depth of field - for wideshots I also use DSLR time-triggering on the pod, with aperture set to minimum and shutter set to long time, ( please pardon me acting a Captain Obvious 😉 )
  4. Hi, Delphic Oracle! Always glad to see someone building Rattlesnake and nice progress ! Concerning bulkheads - it's a good idea to dry fit all of them simultaneously - in my kit their fit was awful and more than that - laser-engraved inscriptions on laser-cut details in some cases didn't correspond with true names of bulkheads on drawings. So I had to change places of some bulkheads and only then it came more or less in order and I could reach some proximity to hull lines. But even then I still had to add some shims/ move vertical slots on bulkheads etc. Getting a MS Rattlesnake's hull to shape is not a quick work and a tricky one as well. So I wish you all the best luck with this project 😉 And by the way - perhaps your camera has WB settings? that could help neutralize "Purple Haze" from plant lamps... Best Regrads Dmitry
  5. Happy New Year, everyone! During these holidays I happen to have an hour or two to whittle some details on Rattlesnake. I've become keenly aware of necessity to widen my electric tools park: having a micro-router a chesstrees like the ones I've made are made within minutes - while working with "bare hands" I've spent an hour and a half )))
  6. Greetings, dear friends! As some of You may know "Work, work and no joy make Jack a dull guy" 😉 A joke of course! From time to time I happen to find an hour or two to add some bits here and there. So a small progress to present moment: sheaves placed, protection from ancor ( don't know how it's called correct), reinforcement in nose area etc. Still a lot of things to do before painting/ varnishing the hull.
  7. Small update: I've prepared all details for sheaves which would be built in bulwarks. It took some time to find proper 2.5mm turned-brass sheaves and some boxwood strips to make sandwich-style cases. I'm not very happy with cases - but after making about 20 - 25 - that's the best result I can achieve working "on a knee" with only Micromot 50 without a coordinate table. What I've learned is that I definitely need to upgrade my electric tool park: Proxxon Micromot 50 is a fine tool and DB 250 is a fine lathe too, but some operations do require micro-miller like MF-70 and a table saw like KS-230 - so I am looking towards these tools or towards combine kit like Unimat 1.
  8. My voice is for Tender Avos' from Master-Korabel since it is engineered the way that allow You to just build it and enjoy perfect fit of parts and good detail level. I am currently helping my son in building their Canoneer Jolle - the smooothest building process I've ever experienced with a kit.
  9. Nice progress! Isn’t that a sheet music on the first pic? What kind of music is that? Strange, but I keep some violin pieces near my building desk too )) For me building of wooden ships has much in common with building musical instruments and classical musicianship. However when I go plastic planes/armor I turn on my guitar setup 😉 Keep up building Rattlesnake! Best Regards)
  10. A very quick update just to show how process of ceiling planking goes - sorry for pics quality - took some by mobile on-the-run :-) You may notice that some gunports haven't been faired and of course there's much sanding ahead. But inner sides are beginning to take shape and it warms my heart a bit ) Priming and painting is on the horizon.
  11. Henke, thanks for your kind words. It's a single planking - I was just following instructions and plans from the kit.
  12. Firedog5213, thank you very much! It does really pour some light on several places and answers some questions here and there. I've also consulted with colleagues here in Russia and decided to make both spirketting and clamps thicker than common ceiling planks on gundeck. I've already planked one side - will make some pics later.
  13. I've got a question to community: in MS's drawings I haven't found any hints about spirketting - it is shown like common planks - the same size and thickness as the other ceiling planks. I believe that's not quite right - on most ships I've studied spirketting was made of thicker planks. However, I can assume that 6-pounders weren't considered as too much of a load and it could be desided to use the same size of planks. So the question is what way to choose - to do the thicker spirketting or to plank it with common size ceiling plans? Maybe there are some other plans than MS's which do specify this point?
  14. Thank you, colleagues ! firedog5213, I've found that model shipbuilding is a "thorny path" of reflections and hesitations 🙂 And during building process appear more questions than answers. Anyway if you've got any questions I'll be happy to discuss and share my (less than modest) knowledge.

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