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DavidG

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Everything posted by DavidG

  1. A year ago I had a plan to finish the model in 2020, which goal certainly wasn't met. Now it's time to make another public commitment, to finish it this year, 14 years after I started At least, I was able to install the topgallants and finish all standing rigging, also made the yards for the mizzen mast. The lines are not tied off, I'm sure they need adjustment later, especially when rigging the braces. Below is a picture of the current state, with standing rigging done:
  2. very nice planking, Andrey. If you set up your build log, all members can follow your progress and you can get advice on building.
  3. Hi Andrei, welcome to MSW and thanks for looking into my log. I'm happy to discuss your Diana build. The best way is to set up a build log of your own, simply by clicking the "Start new topic" button in the build log section. selecting the "choose files" option below your post, will allow you to upload pictures, which you can insert to your post with the "+" sign:
  4. there are several ways to do this, software like Adobe Illustrator can certainly do that. Much depends on the quality of your image, and probably you will have to adjust it manually after the conversion. I think Adobe provides a trial period, which might be just fine for your needs. But if you make a search to "jpg to vector" you find several videos on youtube and other solutions, like vectormagic.com and similar.
  5. I came across this video on youtube recently, showing the finished model. I think not posted here before:
  6. you made great progress on the second planking. looks very nice. regarding bending the thick wood, I can think of a couple of options. - soak it for several hours, than take a fairly large pot from the kitchen, clamp it slowly and wait until dries. than remove it, soak it again, and clamp it to a smaller one with a bit more severe bend. I had some success this way in the past, working progressively towards the required bend, but it takes a lot of time. all previous advice about using heat/ steam will help the process. - if you are going to paint your wales black, you might use t
  7. I made some progress in the recent months, actually finished all the ratlines. They add a lot to the look of the ship. Actually it wasn't too bad. On average I tied 7-8 lines per day, but sometimes I really got into it and finished a whole section in a day. Here are some pictures of the current progress. the topmast stays are already on, but not finally tensioned. I started to work on the topgallant masts, which is the next task on hand. Finally a picture of the rigging thread collection I use, purchased from a local source.
  8. congrats for the nice planking! regarding the bulwark templates, I used them, but if I was to do it again I would plank the bulwarks. For the gundeck it's not an issue, nothing will be seen. But on the forecastle deck there is an opening for the catheads: which is a rather dubious feature. A flat piece of timber laid across the deck, connecting the the two sides.. can't imagine it is correct. The point is, the bulwark templates already have a hole for this board, which I decided not to install, and found it difficult to fill the gap nicely in the bulwarks. But the decision cer
  9. I will watch this with interest, as I want to build a clipper ship one time. There are not many good kits on the market, this one seems to be of the better ones. Neither many finished examples of the Flying Fish available on the internet. You certainly know what you are doing, good luck for the build.
  10. I gave a try to char removal with a dremel brush with mixed results. It worked fine to remove the loose top layer (which makes most of the mess) but the rest remained for hand filing. But at least made the dirty work a bit faster.
  11. very nice work so far. your precision and finishing are really great! regarding eyes at the end of the block strops, you could try to cut the thread end diagonally. that way the thread end will diminish in thickness under the seizing, simulating the splice.
  12. welcome to the Occre Diana club with a finished model you are not a newbie any more. Building the same ship for ages I will have an eye on your log. In your speed you probably will take me over soon.. Anyway, good luck for your build, this will build into a nice model.
  13. In the meantime, I started to tie ratlines. It is made by clove hitches, using size 50 Corona cotton thread Currently I'm setting up the topmast shrouds, the next milestone will be the completion of the topmast stays. Here is an overall view of the model in it's current state:
  14. Before moving to the topmasts, some tasks were due around the mast tops. First is to install the catharpins and futtock shrouds on the main and fore masts. I used 1x1 mm wooden strips for the futtock poles, in retrospect they are a bit on the thick side, next time I may try to use thread instead. The futtock shrouds take a turn around the pole and secured by two seizings below. The hooks on their upper end are made from modified eyebolts (these are the small Amati copper ones), then darkened by heating them and dipped in oil. Then made the slings and the strops fo
  15. Having the lower stays done, I started to work on the bowsprit. Despite of there are reliable sources how to do it, I struggled a lot in this area. Given the dimensions of the head and the length of the bowsprit, the lines simply doesn't fit. The first issue is the bowsprit itself, I had to make it longer than the plan to fit the required fittings (and still had to remove the woolding behind the bees) and keep the lines away from bow rails. Then came the question of the figurehead. The kit supplied a nice one, with the small issue it doesn't really fit. The rigging plan bypasses this by leavin
  16. I had some progress in the last 3 months. I'm not a fast builder, but try to get some work done each day, even it sometimes to try a knot or two. After finished the rather straightforward (but lengthy) exercise of setting the lower shrouds, I started work on the lower stays. I concluded, the kit rigging plan is not any help at all- while I know nothing about the Spanish practice, some of the features shown are rather dubious (tying off topmast shrouds on the middle of masts, rigging fore stays with blocks, ect). For rigging lower stays I had more confidence, so started with these. Th
  17. you made a nice job so far. your planking looks really good. re the gunports, certainly the decision of yours, but let me share my experience. I build on Occre kit for many years. During the time I tried to raise the quality of my work, which many times resulted to take apart what I did and redo it properly. What I recognized, I usually spent excess time on planning before executing a change, because 1) I feel uncomfortable to deconstruct the model 2) I'm not sure what's the best way to do it 3) I'm uncertain if I can reach the results I want. I can't tell how much time I spent issue
  18. a very nice model you are building, these Corel kits build into great looking ships. regarding the transom, I agree the casting doesn't fit the quality of your work. If the cast decoration piece is crisp enough, you may try to make a copy with a blue stuff and modeling clay and glue it over your wooden transom. there's a lot of how-to videos out there, make a search for blue stuff/oyumaru.
  19. Hi Andrey, thank you for making and posting your videos. Over the time I went through them all, especially liked the ones on the rigging. I recognize the nice blocks you make. Do you file them individually? Or do you happen to have instruction on block making? best, David
  20. good looking hull so far! use white glue for the second planking. I use small spots of CA after applying the wood glue to hold the plank in place until the glue dries. push pins, rubber bands also can help.
  21. if it helps, this is how I do it: first, prepare one end of the shroud: make an empty loop by the end of it. use the thinnest thread from your kit for this. once the loop is done, insert a deadeye and pull it tight. then add the two seizing above (you can finish it by brushing on diluted glue). then, find an approximate position of the deadeye on the other end. this don't need to be exact. make an empty loop and leave it as is, for now. Then place the pair of shrouds on the model, and use a wire spacer to temporarily fix the rigged end. by sliding the empty loop on the oth
  22. dealing with the same stage on my model, I follow the below diagram for attaching the deadeyes. The line crosses itself right above the deadeye (called a throat seizing). The beauty of the thing is, once this seizing is done, you can slide it to the correct position in the vertical plane and insert the deadeye when the position of the loop is spot on. I also share your struggle regarding the catharpins. Some modelers make it from wire (sufficiently painted). I haven't tried it, but there might be some advantages. You may also consider using thinner lines for both the futtock s
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