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About BareHook

  • Birthday 07/27/1964

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    West Palm Beach, Florida

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  1. Another idea, is a diorama you could call "after the storm" she looks like she rode out a hurricane, pretty cool looking if you take it in a "storm damage" context. Especially the top down photo looks like she is sitting in calm water at a dock, . I can only imagine sailors from the era dealing with a similar mess after riding a storm. I look forward to seeing her restored.
  2. OK, completed masts, shrouds, ratlines, catheads rigging, anchors & bouys, forstays, fore running rigging, fabricated booms & gaffs I think that captures most... Next up rigging booms, gaffs, yards, backstays Gotta give a shout out to "Syren" co, their blocks are awesome! though I need to buy more needle threaders, I only get about 2-4 blocks esp the smaller 2mm and 3/32 before threader wire breaks.
  3. Its good to be back and modeling, I'm continuing my Hannah build after being shelved for 5 years.
  4. After a 5 year "shore leave" I'm back I'll call restart date July 2020, its good to get back into it, got distracted fishing and a couple moves makes it hard to work on. Masting completed, rigging in process, will post some pics soon.
  5. Dye before sewing or the hems will soak up too much and darken. I haven't tried dyeing but have heard of some using coffee to good effect. Ken
  6. When dealing with this issue I run a single lanyard and tighten to my planned tension. This determines how many twists the line does at that tension. I then reverse the twists to the correct count, wrap the lanyard and apply tension and everything straitens-out. Ken
  7. Masts are typically raked aft to some degree, but it can vary widely, you need to refer to the plans for the angle. If you don't have the info, someone on this site should be able to provide the info on the Bounty. If you change the thread title to be specific question regarding the Bounty mast rake angle, you might get a quicker answer. Ken
  8. I believe the bands on the powder kegs were also made of copper instead of iron to prevent any risk of a spark
  9. There is a miter guide available through dremel as well, they sell it for about $12 if I remember correctly. Ken
  10. I believe brushing on works better than immersion because brushing limits the amount of reaction and thickness of black. with immersion, too much black can build up and it loses and adhesion to the surface. Just a thought though based upon my own experience blackening Ken
  11. They're not a hard as they look, just get a good pair of really small needle nose pliers. I have to admit though, I hate blackening metal, its my least favorite part of ship modeling. BTW craft shops sell black wire in their jewelry section that works well for fabricating your own hooks. Ken
  12. Check out the links on this site http://www.modelboatyard.com/techniques.html Ken
  13. I would consider using electrical multi strand wire, it is already in a twisted form and can be found in really small diameters. You could even use insulated wire, just strip the insulation. If the twists are not tight enough, secure one end and put the other in a drill motor, you can spin it tighter. You can find it tin plated (silver appearance) or bare copper that can be blackened. Ken
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