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Everything posted by BareHook
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Another idea, is a diorama you could call "after the storm" she looks like she rode out a hurricane, pretty cool looking if you take it in a "storm damage" context. Especially the top down photo looks like she is sitting in calm water at a dock, . I can only imagine sailors from the era dealing with a similar mess after riding a storm. I look forward to seeing her restored.
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OK, completed masts, shrouds, ratlines, catheads rigging, anchors & bouys, forstays, fore running rigging, fabricated booms & gaffs I think that captures most... Next up rigging booms, gaffs, yards, backstays Gotta give a shout out to "Syren" co, their blocks are awesome! though I need to buy more needle threaders, I only get about 2-4 blocks esp the smaller 2mm and 3/32 before threader wire breaks.
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Its good to be back and modeling, I'm continuing my Hannah build after being shelved for 5 years.
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Maybe 60 meters is the actual vessel length and kit is .25 scale? try Model Expo, they sell flags
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Dye before sewing or the hems will soak up too much and darken. I haven't tried dyeing but have heard of some using coffee to good effect. Ken
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When dealing with this issue I run a single lanyard and tighten to my planned tension. This determines how many twists the line does at that tension. I then reverse the twists to the correct count, wrap the lanyard and apply tension and everything straitens-out. Ken
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Masts are typically raked aft to some degree, but it can vary widely, you need to refer to the plans for the angle. If you don't have the info, someone on this site should be able to provide the info on the Bounty. If you change the thread title to be specific question regarding the Bounty mast rake angle, you might get a quicker answer. Ken
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Gunpowder Kegs
BareHook replied to DocBlake's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I believe the bands on the powder kegs were also made of copper instead of iron to prevent any risk of a spark -
There is a miter guide available through dremel as well, they sell it for about $12 if I remember correctly. Ken
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I would consider using electrical multi strand wire, it is already in a twisted form and can be found in really small diameters. You could even use insulated wire, just strip the insulation. If the twists are not tight enough, secure one end and put the other in a drill motor, you can spin it tighter. You can find it tin plated (silver appearance) or bare copper that can be blackened. Ken
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I've heard the same and have always used diluted PVA (white glue) with no problems. I have also seen situations where CA will cause paint to discolor or peel as well.
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Its been a while since I posted an update, but here it goes: Most of the deck furniture is complete, but some is loosely placed. Completed rigging the cannons, threading 2mm blocks was "interesting" I used these twisted wire needle threaders that I found at Michael's. I did the coils by wetting the line with diluted PVA and wrapping it around a small dowel then using a toothpick to slide the coil down to the deck, where the wet glue held it in place. I made the ships bell from solid brass in a hand drill and shaped it using needle files (poor mans lathe). Currently I am completing masts and spars, then the standing rigging. Ken
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Karl, Amazing work! I really like your display cases as well, did you make them? if so can your share a bit on the methods used? That's quite a ship, you never get a feel for the scale until you see the photos next to your furniture and especially where the top masts stretch up toward the ceiling! If I ever manage to get across the pond to Germany, I hope I can stop by for a close-up view. Ken
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BTW just noticed the index on the first post, Awsome idea especially for the longer build logs
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Looking really good! Just a thought, when you plank the poop deck, make sure you bevel the planks or you will end up with wide gaps due to the radius of the deck arc. Ken
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You can also install the hatch planks before beveling, this will add strength and rigidity for the sanding operation.
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Nice planking, I really like the color variations in the walnut, it really shows the craftsmanship of the planking. On mine the walnut shades are so close you cannot see the individual planks and joints. Ken
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