BareHook

I've added notches for the bulwark and gunport framing. Next up is installing the frames and the fashion pieces then completing the bulwark, transom, counter planking and cap rails.
I decided not to do treenails on the deck. I did a small experiment piece on a scrap of wood and was not happy with the look. I think the soft basswood used on the decks makes creating sharp details such as treenails very difficult, especially at 1:80 scale.

I used dilluted white glue on the sails for my AVS  and used a hair blow-dryer to dry them in shape.
 
Ken

Work on the forecastle is now complete. I have made and added the roughtree rail. This was a straightforward task, but still fussy, mostly because of my desire to strengthen it by pinning all of the pieces.
 
The first job was to make the stanchions from boxwood strip, paint them black and then pin and glue them to the cap rail. I then made the rails themselves. Initially, I had thought that I would cut them from boxwood sheet, but decided to try bending them to shape from boxwood strip. Somewhat surprisingly, I found that I could edge bend 1/16" x 5/32" strip using boiling water and my old electric plank bender. I added the pin rail portion with additional pieces of bent strip. After rounding the edges, I prepainted the rails, drilled the holes for the belaying pins, added pins for the attachment to the knight heads and then glued the rails to the stanchions and the knight heads. Once the glue had set, I drilled through the rails and into the stanchions and used brass wire pushed into the holes with a drop of CA to pin them. After cutting off the wire and filing it smooth, I then did the final painting and added the belaying pins.
 
The result is a fragile looking structure that should be strong enough to withstand rigging stress. I'm pleased. My avoidance of the headwork will continue for a while as I do the channels and the remainder of the port lids.
 
Bob

I'm just back from a week long golf trip with my wife and three other couples, and after playing 6 times in 7 days, I was ready for a rest from golf and eager to get back to modeling. This combination resulted in a burst of activity.
 
I returned to work on the forecastle. First I realized that I had left off the knees on the belfry/barricade, so made and added them. Then I made and added the splash guards at the bow. These were cut from boxwood and bent to shape. Next, I made and mounted the 8 required timber heads. Theses were done from boxwood strip in the usual fashion of shaping each of them fully before cutting it from the strip. They were then painted and pinned and glued in place.
 
The last and most intricate work was making up the catheads. These were made from boxwood. notches were cut with a chisel to fit over the rail and the remainder of the shaping done with files. I did simulated sheaves, as I have done throughout this build. Next, I made and mounted the cleats and thumb cleats. Lastly, I added the necessary eyebolts. The catheads were then mounted in place.
 
I'm now moving on to the rough tree rail, which  will be the last of the forecastle work.
 
Bob

A few more pics.
 

 

 

 

 
And now to repair that bow. The walnut supplied is very brittle and not sized correctly so a lot of sanding and adjustments in sizes is necessary. Its only wood and a lot of fun.

Its been a while since my last post. Summertime with the kids out of school. I've been able to get some modeling done though.
I've been able to plank the hull and paint. Pics follow. I made a few changes to the build. I did not put in the unused gunports and squared off the stern a bit. the taffrail is not curved as it should be (still contemplating this) may make a change depending on how I feel in the next day or two. more to come.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

I've added the upper deck (would it be a poop deck on this vessel?) spacer blocks and faired them to the hull contours and deck camber.
I cut the rabbets and installed the stem and Keel, but am waiting on the Sternpost until after planking the lower hull as this will allow me to trim all the planks even.
The wales have been formed and painted and I'm in process of forming the Garboard strakes.
 
Next up
Install the wales and Garboard strakes Calculate planking bands and tapering - final adjust Plank lower hull Question, would it help with bonding the planking if I prep the solid hull with sanding sealer or dilluted PVA? I plan to use PVA for my planking.
 
Ken
 
Edit: Thought of the day, I got a great deal on this kit, but as it turns out, by the time I'm done upgrading, I should have just bought a more expensive version with more usable parts.

I've completed the planking from the wale down, but it still needs sanding.
I shaped-up the rudder and drilled the hull for the rudder and masts. The rudder is a different wood than the walnut planking, so I may need to stain to match or leave as is? Opinions?
 
Next up is deck planking and then the upper hull rail and gunport framing/planking.
 
Ken

I completed the deck planking and quarterdeck face planking. I used pencil graphite for the caulking and basswood for the planks. Next time I may try black colored pencil or crayon for the caulking, the graphite dust was messy and seemed to penetrate the grain of the wood. Though the basswood is a bit soft, I like how the grain shows up and has some color variation, you just need to be carefull not to splinter or gouge it.
 
Next up is treenailing the decks, I'm not sure if the filler I have will show any contrast though considering the drill size will be a #76 (.020) in soft wood.
I'm going to do an experiment with some planking on a block to try out treenail filler as well as the rail/gunport framing notches inside the upper planking.
 
Ken

Thanks Nils. I'm just trying to keep up with you in the details.
 
Thanks Nigel. You're so right about getting by the guns. Interesting choice to go with no guns on Mordaunt. I have no doubt that it will look great.
 
Thanks Grant. Funny that you should mention housekeeping. My wife thinks that I'm the biggest slob in the world -- the attached current photo of my workspace may just prove her right. or ?
 
Bob

Work on the forecastle is now proceeding. First up was to plank the small bit of inner bulwark with boxwood. After that, I proceeded to do the hances and cap rail. For the hances, I again used the laser cut kit pieces for the carved end and fitted them to the rails which were cut from boxwood sheet, using card stock templates. 
 
As I generally do, the rail assemblies were prepainted black on the edges before mounting to avoid the need for masking. The rail tops were painted in place.  BTW, I am not among the 10 -20 coat painters. For better or worse, I am satisfied with 4-5 coats, particularly with black.
 
After the rails were done, I made the galley stove stack and the forecastle barricade and belfry. The stack was made from styrene tube with wire handles. The barricade and belfry were made from boxwood, with the exception of using the laser cut rail piece from the kit, because it had the square openings for the stanchions cut into it, and I used two shaped stanchions that I had on hand to support the belfry itself. The bell is a brass piece that I had on hand.
 
I'm now moving on to the remaining forecastle work.
 
Bob

Don't forget the series by Alexander Kent, can't think of titles but enjoyed it several years ago.

The quarterdeck is now complete. I made and installed the ladder way ladder and railing, the upper main capstan, the mizzen topsail sheet bitts and the wheel.
 
The ladder is boxwood. For the rail, I used some brass stanchions that I had on hand, rather than the PE brass parts from the kit. The PE parts, although nicely done, just seemed too small in cross section and the stanchions I had appeared more appropriate to me. The railing is black wire.
 
The upper main capstan is boxwood and is smaller than the previously made lower main and jeer capstans. Making and fitting the chocks between the whelps was as fiddly as it gets. I added the pawls from boxwood painted black.
 
The bitts are boxwood with simulated sheaves, done just like the previously done fore and main bitts.
 
The wheel uses the kit cast metal parts for the two wheels, with boxwood supports. The wheel rigging enters the deck through strips of boxwood. I had wanted to use wooden wheels, but felt unable to make them without the appropriate tools, and I was unable to locate any of a correct size and appearance after a search of various sites on the web. I've tried to paint the metal wheels to match the boxwood on the model.
 
Next, I'm moving forward to complete work on the forecastle.
 
Bob

Having lost my build log in the catastrophic crash of 2012, I will try to resurrect an abbreviated version. I used Portia Takakjians plans and referred to both the AOTS book and the POF publication. There were significant differences in the deck framing between the two books. This was my first ship-model and I learnt a lot along the way, especially from MSW members later on. The build took 10 years and was done in american cherry for the structural elements. Hope you like it.
Dick
 

a representative midship frame the bow framing completestern module
hull framing complete

David B,
The bandsaw idea reminds me of one way I thought of to convert a solid hull to POB. Mark your bulkhead positions and just slice them out like a loaf of bread. With the centerline cut and bonded, it would be easy the create the keel slots and the keel could be cut from stock material using the plans.
 
Ken

Haven't gotten much done of late.  But I did manage to line out the deck where the bulkheads are.  The decking planks will end on these lines.
 

 
 
In addition, I prepared some sample decks as I'm not familiar with Swiss Pear.  Here is what I've settled on:
 

 
These are 1/8 x 1/16" planks supplied by Jeff @ Hobbymill.  Beautiful stuff.  The planks were lined on one edge with #2 pencil (ends also).  The simulated treenails were drilled with a #75 bit and filled with dyed filler to almost match the plank color.  The finish sequence was Minwax Pre-stain, one coat of Minwax Natural stain and a coat of Testor's Clear Acrylic Dull lacquer.  I'll be using a 3 butt shift on the deck.
 
Work will commence next week and may take a little time    .
 
You all stay the course !!
 
 

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
Finishing up the running rigging and final pick up, key points include:
>>> Final drops of thinned white glue to secure rigging lines
>>> Rigging coils installed
>>> Ship's boat secured
>>> Final paint touchup
>>> Model cased and mounted in brass pedestals
 
The model now rests in the home of a dear friends in the State of Maine.  They are Maine natives, which is appropriate for this ship is typical of Maine coastal traders of the mid 1800's.
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Welcome to the Topsail Schooner "Eagle" 1847 build log,
 
Continuing with final rigging, key points include:
 
Final Setup:
>>> Topmasts fitted to main & fore masts
>>> Shrouds, topmast shrouds, and stays fitted to mast assemblies
>>> Main gaff topsail fitted to the main mast assembly
>>> Main and fore sail fitted to gaffs & booms
>>> Fore topsail fitted to fore topsail yard
>>> Fore staysail fitted to fore staysail boom
>>> Fore lower yard fitted to fore mast assembly
 
Setting the Masts:
>>> Main and fore mast fitted 
>>> Shroud and stay setup commenced
 
Pete Jaquith
Shipbuilder

Hi Mark,
 
1. Box wwod
2. woods mordant pearwood
3. Crowbar, 1,0 mm,  own construction
4. Mini power drill with dentist drill
5. Cutter
6. Magnifying lamp, 2x magnification
 
 Karl   

Hi folks, I think I have finally settled on a method and technique that works for weaving the mouse for my HMB Endeavour (1:60).
 
The following sequence of photos shows the rigging station I use, the jig itself and the various stages of the weave process.  The finished product still has to have the furries removed and I still need some further practice to ensure the weave is uniformly formed on both sides of the cone.
 
I use a couple of electronics wire clamps for temporary holders and a couple of needles for the rigging and weaving.  I have found that using 13 strands of 0.25mm thread (horizontal threads) provides the best effect at this scale, while 19 (with larger thread) would be better at 1:48 etc. An odd number is required to keep the under/over sequence going.
 
I start by positioning the former (turned on the lathe) on the rope (Stay in this instance - therefore LH laid and 1.0mm at this scale) and holding it with the alligator clamps (shrink wrap on the teeth to protect the rope).  The alligator clamps/clips are fitted to  springs to create a 'bowser' to I don't over tension and damage the rope.
 
I hold the former in place with a dab of glue then I use the needle to pierce the rope as close as possible to the former (thin end of cone) and feed the weaving thread though the rope twice to anchor the weaving thread leaving a tail of sufficient length to serve the combined/bunched horizontal threads back a sufficient distance down the served rope -  the long end of this thread is used to weave between the horizontal threads.  I then tie a knot in the combined horizontal threads (13) at one end and then feed them individually through the holes in the jig in the sequence of 3 a space, 3 a space etc.  When complete I recombine the threads at the other end and put some CA on that to hold them together and the use a fishing sinker on a swivel as a weight to keep some tension - not too tight as you need to pull the threads together.
 
I then start to weave doing about three or four complete circuits of the weave each time using the needle.  I found that weaving with the needle coming towards me such that I work from the bottom up and behind the rope (stay) worked best for me as a right hander.  I kept losing track of the under/over sequence trying to work downwards behind the stay but experiment to see what works for you.  After each group of three or four turns, I tension the them individually using a pin in a dowel to push the threads back (similar to how a loom would push each row of knotting/weaving) and to pull the threads to tighten the turn. 
 
When I have completed the weaving turns I use the finer needle to again take two passed through the rope (stay as close to the wider end of the former that I can, ensuring to tension the thread (careful not to break the thread) after the first pass and using the second to lock it. I then start the reduction process thinning by a third, then a half etc) and serving with the long end of the weaving thread over the reduced threads and using the electronics wire grips/clamps to temporarily hold the thread as necessary.  I again finish passing the long thread through the rope/stay using the finer needle to finish the serve. 
 
I then finish thinning and serving the other end the same way.  The weave (very close) up will have some 'furries' which I get rid of later.  I now using my serving machine to finish serving the loop/strop (short end) of the rope finishing the serve at the appropriate place to form the eye and leave enough serving thread (having secured with the needle the same way) to use as the serving/whipping on the eye's end.  Trim and clean up the finished product.
 
I hope this explanation and the photos adequately show the technique but please fire away with any questions or suggestions/improvements to my jig or technique.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hello friends,
current pictures of the Bonhomme Richard.
 
Forecastle-Deck,
mounted belfry and balustrades.
Watch-bell and quarterdeck breastwork.
 
 
Karl     
 
 
 
T e i l  5 0

Moving along. The cap rails on the quarterdeck bulwarks and transom have been made from boxwood and installed. They are painted black. After doing the cap rails, I also made and installed the small pieces of rail that go above the hances. Since these pieces are in a precarious spot during further work, I put a pin through the rail and stanchion and into the rail below. The last item I did was to make and install the stern davits. These are boxwood and have the same simulated sheaves that I have used previously on this build.
 
The next work will be the guns and other deck fittings and furniture on the quarterdeck.
 
Bob 

Oar sweeps drilled out, and trimmed using dental drills, needle files, and sandpaper.  Not easy to photograph - sorry for the flash glare!
 

 
 

 
 
And after painting inside the sweeps, then two coats of satin poly:
 
 

 

 
 
Now to the decking.
 
Here's a question, in the hopes someone knows.  The practicum and instructions refer to making parts of the main hatch coamings out of 3/32" by 1/4" walnut.  This does not exist in the supplied timber.
 
There are 4 lengths of 5/64" by 15/64" walnut, which are the closest I can see, but I'm always afraid of running out at a later step if I use the wrong timber.
 
Anyone hit this difference before, or any thoughts?
 
Thanks,
 
Brett

The sweep ports are tough, I made a drill jig with 3 hole inline on an angle to drill pilot holes for the cutouts, then trimmed away at it until complete

The sweep ports are tough, I made a drill jig with 3 hole inline on an angle to drill pilot holes for the cutouts, then trimmed away at it until complete