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Everything posted by demonborger

  1. Yep!!!! I buy almost all my hobby goods from them. Ordered dozens of times, quick dispatch, never had an issue
  2. Obechi - similar to mukaly Annegre - same as tanganyka pretty much, same application, Billings use this for decking Bokapi - not sure Dibetou - a walnut Manzonia - similar to walnut Mukaly - yellowish wood, used for deck planking (constructo kits use this) Red Paduc - not sure but reminds me of sapele Tanganyka - very very common wood for deck planking, light brownish. Italian companies wood of choice for decking. Mostly these are African woods that are similar colours and properties. Check out Constructo and Billings kits as these woods are supplied with those kits.
  3. THe cardboard folder the instructions come in should have what the abbreviation stands for. If i recall correctly LN refers to walnut, but note that there are various different types of walnut that exist,
  4. The charred edges certainly do affect the ability for glue to bond the planking to the hull frame. You shouldn't have to completely sand it off though, just enough to for the glue to sink beneath the char.
  5. Nuestra Senora looks beautiful. Will there be an unboxing video of it? Is it possible to view elements of the construction? For example are the gunports laser cut templates?
  6. I have had no trouble at all sanding down the Mamoli metal frames with sand paper. The metal is quite soft. Just remember to do it before second planking.
  7. Those windows aren't really visible on the finished model anyway, between the ships wheel, cannons, deck, double staircase and mast there isn't much to see.
  8. Those are laser cut gunports that make up part of the second planking. The U shaped things are for the handrails.
  9. The metal gunports have a bracket at the back with a hole in the middle which you attach the dummy cannons to. The stern most gunport on the lower gundeck does look a bit too low i think. Did you run a couple of timber strips along the length? I actually didn't use the tab system and instead glue the top strip along the length, then glued the gunport to the bulkhead and then put on a wood strip along the length of the ship to touch the bottom of the gunports, then attached a vertical strip on the side opposite to the bulkhead. It seems sturdy enough and i found it easier than lining up
  10. Off white is a creamy colour. If you add black it will go grey instead which is not what you want. The white paint was a mixture of various substances that created a coating that would prevent marine organisms from attaching the the hull and attacking the wood.
  11. I use a black Kuretake Zig Brushable Colour Graduation Twin Brush Tip Marker Pen. It has a dark black end and a slightly lighter more charcoal coloured black on the other, it doesn't bleed into the grain and doesn't get ruined by danish oil finish either. For me it has been the best solution for caulking, quick and easy.
  12. Mamoli usually gives enough for the lime wood, but the walnut and "boxwood" amount is generally just on the mark or short of it... It's a shame because I actually like the "boxwood" they supply for the second planking around the gunports, it is more orange and less yellow after oiled.
  13. Same thing happened for me. When the gratings are one, and the ships boats, and the staircases, and the cannons, and the rigging and other deck furniture then it becomes an irrelevant quirk. It's because the rectangle hole in the false deck is actually a trapezium.
  14. What are you trying to say? 1: of course the deck is widest where the red arrow is 2: The tops of the bulkheads (i think 7-11, i.e the ones in the middle) are thinner than the other bulkead tops because they will be cut off after your have planked the hull, so you can then plank the inside of them. The other bulkead tops are where the upper decks will go. Between a slightly wider deck and the slightly thinner bulkheads you end up with a gap of a couple of mm. Or if you are worried about the planks bending to one side then measure the gap between them as they go on the two smaller
  15. If you plan on making the gallery windows clear then you should be able to see the entire upper gundeck. So plank the entire length in one effort, with special attention to getting the exposed planks (6 to 12) looking nice and pretty.. They way they have it silly, i think they were probably thinking "do the areas under the upper false decks first, add the upper false decks, then plank the exposed part of the lower gundeck" Not sure why though.... So plank the entire length of it in one application. Probably start from the centre and plank each way if it gives you a nice look there.
  16. The 1x2mm wood is used on the masts and for the railings. A wooden wheel would've been nice but in the end it is not that visible in the build anyway (it's behind the dual staircase). I wish a manufacturer produces nice slender wooden belaying pins at that size but sadly they tend to be very fat little things... Mamoli kits use older build techniques (there is almost no laser cut parts other than the bulkheads, false keel and false deck on recent releases). So no fancy gunport templates ala Occre and Caldercraft. The wood quality is ok for some and a bit raggedy for others. Some f
  17. I did the adjusting during dry fit and then glued everything together The quarter deck, forecastle and poop deck (or the upper decks generally) can all be adjusted easily at anytime. When you do them their heights are important to give the gallery frames a nice snug fit. Too tight and you will be forced to grind them down a bit, too loose and you will need to pack the gaps (i made them a bit too loose..) With the decks the main things to worry about are: 1) The quarter deck and forecastle deck are curved and not flat. For both that depends largely on the columns and beams. It is imp
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