demonborger

Yep!!!! I buy almost all my hobby goods from them. Ordered dozens of times, quick dispatch, never had an issue

Very good news!!

 De Zeven Provinzien first!!

Obechi - similar to mukaly

Annegre - same as tanganyka pretty much, same application, Billings use this for decking

Bokapi - not sure

Dibetou - a walnut

Manzonia - similar to walnut

Mukaly - yellowish wood, used for deck planking (constructo kits use this)

Red Paduc - not sure but reminds me of sapele

Tanganyka - very very common wood for deck planking, light brownish. Italian companies wood of choice for decking.

Mostly these are African woods that are similar colours and properties.

Check out Constructo and Billings kits as these woods are supplied with those kits.

Most italian manufacturers and Caldercraft use tanganyka for deck planking

THe cardboard folder the instructions come in should have what the abbreviation stands for.

If i recall correctly LN refers to walnut, but note that there are various different types of walnut that exist,

The charred edges certainly do affect the ability for glue to bond the planking to the hull frame. You shouldn't have to completely sand it off though, just enough to for the glue to sink beneath the char. 

I did mine with sandpaper. The material is not too difficult.

The box really is not so big. If you want to build the kit as is then buy entire kit. If you plan to use parts of the kit but also to use your own timber or fittings etc then it might be better to only buy the installments which you want and to buy the rest from somewhere else.

It looks very nice   Should build nicely.

 Nuestra Senora looks beautiful.

Will there be an unboxing video of it?

Is it possible to view elements of the construction? For example are the gunports laser cut templates?

I have had no trouble at all sanding down the Mamoli metal frames with sand paper. The metal is quite soft. Just remember to do it before second planking.

I think solid hull is in many regards more difficult than PoB

Some matte finishing spray would fix that ebay ship's glossy coat.

The best Victory is the final one

That;s the Amati/Victory models one

Those windows aren't really visible on the finished model anyway, between the ships wheel, cannons, deck, double staircase and mast there isn't much to see.

The metal windows will probably need a fair bit of filing down to fit nicely

Those are laser cut gunports that make up part of the second planking. The U shaped things are for the handrails.

I think i'd rather just buy the Caldercraft Mary Rose outright.

B

The metal gunports have a bracket at the back with a hole in the middle which you attach the dummy cannons to.

The stern most gunport on the lower gundeck does look a bit too low i think.

Did you run a couple of timber strips along the length? I actually didn't use the tab system and instead glue the top strip along the length, then glued the gunport to the bulkhead and then put on a wood strip along the length of the ship to touch the bottom of the gunports, then attached a vertical strip on the side opposite to the bulkhead. It seems sturdy enough and i found it easier than lining up the tabs.

I like my ships to have black gunwales and white anti-fouling paint, it gives a nice contrast. 

The classic Victory black, ochre and copper hull scheme looks brilliant also.

But it doesn't matter if it is done with wood stain, acrylic paint, oil paint, different coloured wood species or any other approach, so long as the contrast producing an aesthetic result then it is good.

Personally i can;'t stand a natural wood finish where one species of wood is all there is. An example of such is the Corel models that are part of the box art/promotional photos, i don't like the look of the entirely walnut approach. I also don't like gunwales that are a silvery/grey shade of walnut

Off white is a creamy colour. If you add black it will go grey instead which is not what you want.

The white paint was a mixture of various substances that created a coating that would prevent marine organisms from attaching the the hull and attacking the wood. 

Caldercraft.

It is one of the bigger kits, with the best instructions, good materials, good design, great fittings.

There are also a lot of Caldercraft HMS Victory build logs out there.

I have the Mamoli kit, it is nice but the instructions won't be a help and the materials aren't quite as good.

I use a black Kuretake Zig Brushable Colour Graduation Twin Brush Tip Marker Pen. It has a dark black end and a slightly lighter more charcoal coloured black on the other, it doesn't bleed into the grain and doesn't get ruined by danish oil finish either.

For me it has been the best solution for caulking, quick and easy.

Your planking towards the stern is exquisite.