Beef Wellington
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Beagle by LucienL - OcCre - 1:60
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Beagle by LucienL - OcCre - 1:60
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Beagle by LucienL - OcCre - 1:60
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Beagle by LucienL - OcCre - 1:60
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
finished my first ship!
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74 gun, as designed
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Langley by RGL - Trumpeter - 1/350
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Blue Ensign reacted to a post in a topic:
Queen Anne Royal Barge circa 1700 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Models - 1:24 scale
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company news and forthcoming new projects - products
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Leopard by toms10 - 1:85 scale POF/POB
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Beef Wellington reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Leopard by toms10 - 1:85 scale POF/POB
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mort stoll reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon (1786) by fake johnbull - Amati/Victory Models 1/72 Vanguard kit -
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Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic:
Queen Anne Royal Barge circa 1700 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Models - 1:24 scale
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Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic:
Queen Anne Royal Barge circa 1700 by Blue Ensign - FINISHED - Syren Ship Models - 1:24 scale
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Congratulations on completing another amazing build, once again a gold standard in build logs and execution. I love how you the figures came together, they really add to the aura of the model. The technique of using fixative on the flags is definitely something to store away in the memory banks.- 174 replies
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- Finished
- Queen Anne Royal Barge
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fake johnbull reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon (1786) by fake johnbull - Amati/Victory Models 1/72 Vanguard kit -
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon (1786) by fake johnbull - Amati/Victory Models 1/72 Vanguard kit -
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Hi Mitsuaki, your deck is beautiful and very well executed. I think you made a good choice! I'm currently planking the upper deck of the Diana kit and will be taking exactly the same approach you did to the gangway planking (the plans are not very clear in this area for this ship either).
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- 74 gun
- victory models
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hollowneck reacted to a post in a topic:
Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Langley by RGL - Trumpeter - 1/350
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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74 gun 3rd Rate Man of War, Arrogant Class
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Hi Sziggy, not sure which paint you'll be using, but assuming it will be some sort of acrylic. You seem to have masked off the deck pretty well, worst case scenario is you get a couple of areas bleeding through, but this can be easily scraped off gently using the sharp end of a scalpel blade once dry and no-one will be any the wiser (at least that has been my experience with the Admiralty acrylics). Applying multiple, thin layers will help lower the risk of bleed as well as give you a better finish. Something to consider for next time is to simply paint the lower plank prior to installation and then you don't have to deal with it, above a small amount of touch up where you don't need to worry too much about perfect masking.
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Old Collingwood reacted to a post in a topic:
USS Langley by RGL - Trumpeter - 1/350
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I'm sure another masterpiece in the making. I suspect that this would be a very disappointing kit without the PE given the extensive lattice structures.
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You have a beautiful model coming together there Richard, nice attention to detail and great execution.
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HMS EURYALUS by Matiz - scale 1:56
Beef Wellington replied to matiz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1801 - 1850
Beautiful work Matiz, your woodworking is just amazing. -
Try not to overthink it Stergios, I know you'll be just fine. If you don't permanently secure any if the ropes with glue, you can always detach and refix it. Until you have the ropes on the model, its very hard to get a sense in 3D for how they all lay out, so don't think you've made a mistake if you need to redo something, think that is just a natural part of the process.
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Alan, that is some pretty amazing detail at 1:64, and its nice to see detail normally omitted or obscured by paint. Very nicely done indeed.
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NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60 - frigate
Beef Wellington replied to bitao's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Beautiful work that many can only aspire to, would love to follow your progress. -
The other consideration outside of the wood itself, is where the wood is sourced from, and in what form. I don't have any tools to mill my own sheets and strips, and as a result I'm dependent on suppliers of strips. My experience with finding consistent maple (for example) has not been a good one, and have found many cases where I've been supplied a wood clearly not what it should be. I've also seen huge variation in Tanganika, some looks very similar to maple, some has very conspicuous orange-brown stripes in it which is far less satisfactory. Walnut seems to be a similar challenge, it seems be of an acceptable quality in some kits, but in others it splinters and snaps just looking at it...
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Hi Stergios, not sure I can impart much advice given this seems to come down a lot to personal preference. I can't tell exactly where you are, but I think I put the lifts on the yards first, mainly to get these secured squarely. The sheets and cluelines came next and then the braces and tacks. Check my log to see if you can tell from photos there, but in general I seem to recall working top downwards, and then mizzen to foremast. The primary concern was just leaving the deck open enough to have access to secure lines (the upper yards tend to follow the line of the masts for belaying. For example, the forsheet clue, sheet and tack lines pretty much limits any access to the deck once in place, so this was done last. I think I took a different approach to you on the bowsprit as I didn't even install the jib-boom until most, if not all the other rigging was in place...,mainly to try and avoid a disastrous break. I did find using a little swiveling turntableto be very helpful at times (think its call a 'lazy susan')...but all personal preference I suspect. Good luck!
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Very nice update Kevin, there seems to be a lot of soldering required for the various fittings, that alone would scare me away but you've done a great job. Seems that the more modern sailing ships and non-military have no armament to worry about, but looks like the work needed on the more complicated metal fittings seem to more than make up for that.
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I keep looking at this model and forcing myself to forget what I've seen...CAF look to be providing a whole range of a type of hybrid kit and I strongly suspect one will be in my future. Love what you're doing to expand on the kit, seems this would be hard to discern from a true scratch build frame model. Glad you managed to overcome the early challenges, even the best kits of this complexity it seems have their own foibles to work through. Know you're working on you Amerigo Vespucci, but can't wait to see more progress here.
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Looks great Rob. Did you end up pinning the rails? As you say, these look pretty long so are maybe less prone to damage, and with the trip piece above also helping push back against any strain from the rigging you are probably in good shape. Must be nice not to have to worry about any armament 🙂
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@ Mike - no not officially an engineer, but my brain does work that way....am a physicist by education, and have played a little with battlefield engineering. Up to this point, its been possible to get by just by look and feel, and the philosophy of thinking ahead and not sweating the small stuff 🙂. This task just required more planned precision. BTW - you can never have enough serving on a model if you have the patience for it. Hopefully this photo makes the jig operation clearer (I left the tape off the outside guide templates for clarity). The fine sandpaper shown is around 0.2mm thickness which would pretty much be offset by the electrical tape thickness. (0.2mm plank width variance would add up to a 4mm problem per side, so it adds up quickly)
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