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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. Lost track a bit do you still have a warped keel bit ?? Its almost impossible to straighten an MDF one - ply is juuust possible but not worth the effort. You are owed a replacement - ask for it from your supplier Where are you - in the UK and most countries the supplier is responsible NOT the manufacturer
  2. Very much depends upon how much difference in height over what spacing. If not much then doing a bit of jiggery pokery with the keel slots and the base can work . One solution I came up with was to buy different sizes of brass doorknob and do a bit of sawing = takng the Knob off and using the stems HANDLES
  3. I concur with wefalck - to get a clean end you need to treat the thread with "something" I prefer just dilute white glue - varnish is good but thin it and try before use in case of "shine", - CA is a no no in my book it doesnt age well ( but a touch at the end of a thread is THE way to create a "needle" for block threading BUT cut the end off when threadng is done) I use nail clippers for cutting off - but it is hard to find a set which is like a sidecutter and doesnt have an inset on the cutters
  4. You will do a back up wont you ! I understand that you believe the work has no site implications ...BUT... Remember "The Great Crash"
  5. HA running backstays!! I got my training in sail on a vessel rigged just like that - Cutter rigged. Modern running backstays are all about bending the mast to efficient shape. In earlier days it was to stop the **** thing going over board ! Pulley set to Pelican hooks to deck eyes. When you went on to a new tack you took up on the windward one - and slacked off the leeward - actually on the vessel I was on -the leeward stay was moved to a deck ring somewhat more forrad . Got quite exciting in a cold night blow ! Here is a terrible picture of Equinoxe I posted to Mike Motts log but you can just make out the backstay fixed much further forrad that you would think it would be backstays Just came across this set of pics though which show backstays set on windward and loose to leeward Backstays in action
  6. BEs log covers it nicely Counter cover . (Beware of trying to emulate BE too closely though he doesnt stick to the script like us mere mortals !) You can look forward to the delights of the stern structure and decorations but for now get the hull and counter planked. Above the counter can get "really fun" and offers a chance of blazing your own trail Ah another advantage of "planking with small bits" like Vulcan - you can use drawing pins in the unplanked spaces to hold the small sections But I yeild to no one in my mastery of rubber bands and pieces of scrap to hold strips
  7. The lady is spot on - if you look at my superimposed pics above you can see where the Quarter windows sits (part 307 - Spy tip 103 scan the instructions into your pc for easy reference) OH and I NEVER use CA except to make the ends of rigging lines hard like a needle for easy threading through blocks Some manage but I have never got the knack and it does deteriorate over time - good old white glue every time for me
  8. You can get the curve- choose a suitable curved object - curved bit of pipe, admirals cosmetic bottle etc ect Soak wood without drinking it or even better steam it as well!! Then elastic band it with many bands round the chosen object !! The counter is a bit oversize you need it so you can sand in a nice transition - but make sure you have it the right way up!! (dont ask !) Plank it though before trimming. Just to be sure drop a pic in of the stern from above maybe ?
  9. Hi again Bitter ( cant call you that - unless you want to be know as Bitter !) I think you have sorted the hump. The wale line seems maybe a bit high - but love your ingenious light method. I prefer just to measure it off the plans which are pretty good and 1:1 - sheet 4 as I say illustrates ports and wale. The wale line is important because the channels to hold out the rigging are aligned on it and its an important feature in finishing off the stern nicely. If you havent got one - get yourself a cheap digital micrometer -its my most used tool You can get one like this for about £6 on ebay -dont pay a lot more Its amazingly useful And that counter curve is essential - here is a picture I did of my stern bit overlaid on the original plans. You should get a set fom the NMM ( Pegasus Plan) very decorative !
  10. Next point Rabbet - HA - what nobody explains much is that the rabbet is really for the SECOND layer of planking in a two layer build It doesnt bother me because i do the first layer with the walnut bits removed so i just sand the edge of the first layer to provide the rabbet after i fit the stem pieces - you can see it in one of my pics above So yes i would create anothe rabbet - but DO NOT remove anything from the nice sharp edge of the walnut pieces NEXT - main wale these are usually extra planks on top or extra thick planking - essentially buffers for teh ship - . Thse are prominent and important features because thing like the rigging are set up from them But its easy. look at the plans - Sheet 4 Mark the line for the top of the wale with reference to the gunports i usuallyuse the forrard lower corner of the forward ports and the aft corner of the aft ports to get the line. Run a strip along that line - NOTE you can pin it because its going to lie UNDER the wale so no marks will show I then plank down from that. When you have done the second planking -then the top of that strip you use to position the wale - simples. (well actually take a pic to note which strip it is - i once put the wales in one strip low by mistake) Check that is looks right with electricians tape which helps getting the very end of the stern run right (this was actually the second wale plank being prebent by the way not the top one and the ports are not fully pierced) NOTE Spyglass tip 73 - the "fake "rabbet using clamps and a bit of scrap on the stem to bend the wale planks AND I SEE VULCAN IS DOING FLASHY PLANKING = with planks !!! !! It was her first Swan build that drew me into this lovely model those many years ago I find strips easier mainly because I can prebend and hold in place easier but many people actually find that using short lengths works better for them. As the lady says its a matter of preference . For a beginner I would say that you probably find using strips allows the experience on first planking to be used
  11. Ok then one point at atime. it is best to have a nice smooth curve at teh stern into the stern counter. The lst few BHS need sanding VISCIOUSLY you have - along with me and many others have a slightly sharp turn just on that last BH before the stern. It just best to have that as smooth a line as possible over teh turn - Try pin the counter in place temporarly and you can see the line required by running a strip along the run/. NOT a huge problem a bit more sanding maybe - or i used the edge of a blade as if i was doing a deck. I cant get a better picture I am afraid But here a one you can see what you are aiming to get - the counter is temporarly tacked witha temp strip in place across PS its easier if you dont repeat the pervious message each time when you reply😁
  12. sorry I wrote it in a hurry - can you post a pic of your stem and stern as they are now ? Then I will try to clarify
  13. Thats all VERY nice !! Only comment I have is that you seem to me to be a leeetle proud on the stern last bulkhead position which gives you a fairly sharp turn there. You may wish to shave the planking back to give a smoother line into the stern counter. Heres a picture of mine which i had to correct a bit later in the samt place But a really nice job. Just a query - did you chamfer your planks they are sitting nice and close. And a few comments on planking start point. Are you going to copper ? - Always a good idea to start in an area you are going to cover up ! I start from top and bottom I like to get the first few strips bottom in first and the temporarily run some guide strips Golden rule for me is to keep the garboard and oterh bottom planks as straight as possible DO NOT LET THEM CURL UP THE STEM just makes it harder for later NOTE the keel planks rise a little more at the stem than i would wish on this build you can see that there is a few of lower planks I didnt taper - mistake ! I then always do it by getting the top one or two in at wale level and normally do not do not taper much if at all. And yes you can hide mistakes under the wale !! The stem rabbet helps to get a nice fit and the old rule steam and prebend!

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