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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. Not clear from your pics but you have realised that the outer frames should not run dead fore and aft but be angled to match the run of the planking? See 4th pic here https://modelshipworld.com/topic/420-hms-pegasus-by-simonthepieman-victory-models-164-started-by-spyglass/?do=findComment&comment=7999
  2. The answer comes in two parts. I do at least my inital fairing with as little as possible attached to the hull/ Then I shape the gunport strips. NOTE - I SHAPE repeat SHAPE not fix the gunport strips so they just sit right with pins or clamps usually just a rubber band fore and aft. Then you have your own option on when to fix them Then its a choice for - Fly with the one piece deck it popped in and out so easily it was great - with Pegasus the two piece deck is a pain and needs fixing in and especially if you have that awful "match stick" ply ( see my part peggy log) . Its a lot easier to plank the deck before the gunport strips go in - but for some lunatic reason I always planked afterwards ! You need to use the deckbeams to check all is right but i normally just CAREFULLY ran in a very fine pin vertically into them - so they were removeable WATCH that first aft deck beam - the fancy ends break off - it goes in SIDEWAYS ! I have no pics of this I am afraid - they all went in the BIG CRASH
  3. Huum - this is a mite strange - I used number 6 as my "reference "BH on a number of Fly/Pegausus builds - never a problem there Some points * I am a bit suspicious of the gap showing of the next BH beween the BH and false deck - seems a bit big * I would be very reluctant to start worrying about the top of some ofthe BH - BeCAUSE YOU ARE GOiNG TO REMOVE THEM * the strip you show first " bellies out " more then the bulwark will I presume that the problem is equal both side ie the BH is centrally placed and the the BHs are hard down on the keel. * There IS a slight underwidth on a BH further back but that fairs OK - i will check my notes and see which one ( I think 10 see on the left here) My suggestion is that you fair reasonably hard THEN SOAK BEND AND SHAPE the gun strip on - that the important item Just check here is a pic of one of my Fly deck assembled and yes indeed this is a teeny tuck in But I never noticed in any build- and just faired and they all came right. As i say remember that BH top come off anyway
  4. Is this for Lady Nelson? - How its rigged depends so much on the size of the vessel. Thanasis first diagram is the" fairly standard method" . Smaller vessels often did not have any Pulley on the cathead but used a tackle from aloft
  5. Thats coming along nicely - I wouldnt DARE put files like that anywhere near one of my builds - disaster would strike - I admire your steady hand !
  6. Mike is quite right - the angle needed on the last BHs is very very steep !! The rule is - when you think you have finished fairing - do some more !
  7. Very nice indeed I just packed up my one hoping to move this week - I have alot of catching up to do !!
  8. The problem BH for fairing which tends to put a kink inthe gunport strips isnt 3 or 4 its the first two - sorry
  9. What fun - its like the Fly/Pegasus builders entrance exam. The main thing really is to get the fairing of the BHS done right - fairly fierce -and preshape at least the forrard strips over and over again till they just sit there fitting. I would suggest though that you keep your fillerers well out of the way at least until you have the strips shaped. AND on fairing watch BH -i think its 3 or 4 - which is frequently underfaired and you can see in many builds a disinct kink in the gunport strip at that point - will look for a pic and check which BH i am talking about. I will also have a quick dig in my docs there are some line up points i used. That all said - some people just seem to stick them on and it works fine !!!😀
  10. found this pic of another Fly build (from Mike Stone maybe ??) which show the jig saw joint fitted in the way i describe
  11. AAAHHHGGGG just had an awful thought on your stern mods. ( Nice work ) But most builders - and me - find that you need to move the gunport strips a little to sit right. Usually need to move the "jigsaw" joint a bit aft so only just about 1mm of the tab on the aft gunport strip is on the bulkhead (9?) The fore strip seems to be a bit long overall, It move in position doesnt seem to affect anyhing else which rather puzzled me. Look here if you haevnt already peg gun strips That means a bit more to trim off the end of the stern strip and you may find that the window aperture you have cut needs a bit of a line up. Strangely however i always found that the forrard part of the forrad strip needed trimming still - I alway ended up trimming it and recutting the bowsprit hole ( TIP) put a "stub" sprit dowel in place and use it to position the forrad end of the gun port strip - even if its a bit long the strip can still sit against the stub. The exact amount of movement needed on the strips is dependant upon how agressively you fair the forrard bulk head.
  12. Though not a bad ide - I didnt need fillers on any of the Fly/Pegasus builds i have done

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