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SpyGlass

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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. If possible I often use a thin pin inserted in the deck fitting(Drill thin hole and cut off head of pin ) to strengthen a joint. And i have a small Modelcraft abrasive device like a pen which can sand very small areas - i think the abrasive is actually glass fibres which can be trimmed even smaller
  2. Just to finesse the idea a bit - i usually fit and glue the pin into the gun as i build the gun . Keep one gun not complete so you can use it as a template to mark or drill the pin point on the deck. Then the guns become demountable until you choose to glue the pins !
  3. Actually Glenn there WERE detailed Operations Manuals and you b***y learnt what was in them or else. There is an example - Exercise of the Small Arms and Great Guns for The Seaman aboard His Majestys Ships from 1778 Somewhere I have stored a few others of these from various periods I will see if I can dig them up - maybe useful to have references like this on a section in the site. I agree that Speedy was probably too busy in the Med to stow them below. But these were LITTLE guns and easy to move and rig. There is the lovely story that Cochrane carried a full broadside for Speedy in his coat pockets. I was onboard one of the vessels out of Charlestown a year or so ago which was preparing for some film work. It had I think 6 guns , slightly larger than Speedys and went out with them stowed along the bulwarks unrigged. When required, it only took about ten minutes to get the guns in position, rigged and ready to run out and that was with a very small crew. But my point was that model builders tend to mix the operational phases. For example - in general vessels didnt sail with the guns run out. If they are run out - its probably for use so the last thing you do is frap the tackle -well actually you cant run them out at all if the tackle is frapped. So if you are modelling with the guns run out then the first picture I showed above with flaked lines is probably closest to reality. That said though of course I usually show my tackle frapped and with the guns run out - cos i think it looks nicer !! Oh and as for fixing the gun to the deck , I run a fine pin through the base of the gun into the deck - cant be seen but gives a better fix i find.
  4. Thats a really really really good job. Readers may not appreciate quite how small these guns are - put a pic of one with your finger in to show the reality of their size! The problem of course is what " status of readiness" are you trying to portray. This is a small vessel with small guns -you dont leave lots of "stuff" on the deck when working her if you dont need to. If she was on a longish trip it is likely that they would be stowed - sometimes along the bulwarks or - very common - in the hold. Read Cooks diaries - he was for ever stowing his guns in the hold. Also the tackles are quite small and can be removed and attached in a very short time. I think the frapping level you seek really can only be done on a fair sized gun where indeed it was very common. The length of line, spacing and size of blocks all work better on a bigger gun. If the guns were ready for action the tackles would be freed and flaked out on deck ready to run as below They would NEVER be in the neat Flemish coil so often seen on models - that was strictly for Admirals visits - it puts too many kinks in the line which has to run through blocks. BUT I THINK YOU HAVE DONE AN EXCELLENT JOB - I would leave it as is - except for maybe replacing the PE ring bolts on the carriage which are a bit over size i think and put a few more turns on the frapping. Here is a pic of a much larger gun rigging - but you maybe could frap up the breech ropes like this to show your otherbits off ?
  5. Just starting to shape a few first layer planks. I like to get the top one or two in below the gun port strip - I only slightly taper those as above. Next the two strips I think are very important the one above and below the join between the keel and the BH at the stern post. So first a rough strip count to position those two strips amidships Then Garboard and the adjacent strip shaped for the forrad curve and truncated at the stern (can just see my mark) to thin the keel towards the stern post. So tomorrow a final bend - not soaking just a bit of steam maybe - and fix. Just pondering as I go what I can do to create a rabbet for the second layer - if i need one at all. The curve is laid out in Chris' stem part so it shouldnt be too hard to carve another 1 or 2mm or so step to act as a rabbet for the second layer. I will practice on a bit of scrap and see what possible ! Another thing best done BEFORE gluing !
  6. I was just looking at my Speedy - the area under discusion is very small. so its not actually that much wood. It is much much easier to reduce in stages. I would suggest you just cut the second planking off on a line - not the bearding line - but one between the bearding line and the edge of the keel and smooth the first planking to that line and the continue that sanding to the require thickness at the keel . But its a small area and if you are coppering so its not critical. I am worrying about mine because I am NOT coppering and it will be on view much more. (BUT the BIG problem to make sure you avoid if you sand after fixing planks is not to sand off the join area where the ends of the plank is glued to the edge of keel.)
  7. Yes just do the maths if you run all planking to the stern . Keel mdf is 3mm first planking is 1.5 mm and final planking is 1mm so 1 + 1.5 + 3 + 1.5 + 1 = 8mm total if you dont thin - the stern post is 3mm - so you have half a centimeter thickness of wood to get rid of.
  8. Hey thats coming along a treat - I am just a step behind you and I will need to keep up my game I see. The only thing I would comment is that - from the pics - you dont seem to have thinned the keel at all - you still have opportunity to do that before you finish or you are going to end up with a lot of thickness at the stern post which is a nuisance to reduce. I will be finishing my first planking early AND thinning the keel a bit this is was i did on Pickle - similar size - link here Thin to stem
  9. Just shaped the top first plank by 30 min soak and fit - thats fine - really nice limewoodwood and it takes a gentle finger shaping really well. Not going to taper this first one except a teeeny bit just so the forrard end fits in that nice stem slot below the gun strip. So thats a good start except I have a rather messy glue squeeze on the bottom of the gun strips which need a touch of tidying with the file first. Though not needed I am going to chamfer all the first planking to a good edge fit. Chamfering at this point just mainly to get into practice for the second layer since I am not going to copper or paint the hull so it needs to be pretty good and its a while since I planked last. The subject of paint reared its head while I was fitting the stern board and I realised the inner surface wasnt planked. I had been vaguely thinking of doing almost no paint but have now decided that the "manual presentation" looks nice. So maybe a couple of scored lines on the stern board and I will go that route. The only issue I have is whether to paint all the stem, keel run, sternpost and rudder black. Or just leave varnished wood below the water line on those pieces - suggestions welcomed!! I have a nice problem about which wood to use for the hull, I have built up quite a stock over the past years. I have some nice holly but i think the lasered deck will be nicer than anything I can do there . (I had a lunatic thought of representing the white painted bottom in holly - but getting the water line plank junctions would be impossible I think). I have two lots of quite nice pear - one a bit "pinker" than the other. But I also discovered a stock of nice coloured box - I think I just have enough - though the edges are a teeny bit chipped in cutting and may be more work than it merits in smoothing out. Decisions decisions !!
  10. Dont be ridiculous - I am the slowest builder on the site!! Mind it would help if I could stop breaking bits and moving house quite so much !
  11. Hurrah - back to where I thought I was before the house move. (The bit of threaded brass rod you can see is running through the keel for later pedestal fixing) Stern bits were a bit hard to place with the broken frames floating about - I must confess to the use of a teeny drop of CA here and there but came good. So a bit of smoothing and then on to some first planking. Just wondering about adding a little rabbet on the stem piece to assist with the second planking but I theeeenk I probably should have thought about that before I glued it in
  12. Some progress at last. So thats the gunport strips in to my satisfaction. The eagle eyed will note some nail holes varying from my normal practice. I got caught quite badly by the quick drying time of the PVA I was using ( Evostick interior - exterior is slower I gather ) . So spent too much admiring the beautiful fit of my soaked and shaped strips and while i was admiring - the glue started setting and I needed to quickly squeeze the joints so resorted to pins in vital places. Another point of my dislike for the MDF BHs then showed - they dont hold a pin very firmly. but all came well. I got the shape around the missing forrard bulkhead top fine just by soaking and shaping. I still have to fit the stern bits -the aft gunport strips seem a bit over long but I am reluctant to trim without some more checking
  13. Thats lovely - Thermopylae I always think was the loveliest of all the clippers . But should she not be green he he !!
  14. Yes frames are a different animal from Bulkheads. Though there is a great deal of commonality I suspect like the others you mean Bulkheads and probably a kit - if so which one do you have in mind.

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