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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. I just use 50/50 Ronseal UTVSC750 Internal Clear Satincoat Varnish with white spirit ( mineral spirits ?) . Its then "wipe on ". Its my preferred cover - for everything - just vary the dilution sometime !
  2. IPA will work may need quite a lot amd patience, But try using the admirals hair drier - PVA will soften with quite a limited amount of heat. Another alternative - if you can get a kettle spout any where near - steam the joint.
  3. I managed to round off some of my trial axles ok just using a file . BUT then I need wheels with round holes !! Still looking - but have some hope that i may find some - beads maybe
  4. No if your fore pieces are on and staying on - then i think you might as well just add the stern section without modification and just trim the ends. BUT a bit of IPA or indeed a bit of a steam and you can pop the glue off the forestrip amazingly easily - 15 mins work and they will be free and can be reworked. I did that with many of my builds - example here refit gunport strips Main thing though is to get the strips to match the breaks in the decks
  5. Yep needsa a trim but have a look at the notes in the variouslogs about the gunport strips - generally agreed I think that they need to be moved sternwards a bit. Allow about 1.2mm overlap of the rear strip at the jigsaw join onto Bulkhead 9 . You will still find the fore part of the strip will be too long - most trim it and recut the sprit hole
  6. I still have that ships wheel,the pump and the bell in my odds and sods box !!
  7. I never fix the keel stem/stern bits on till after first planking because otehrwise i always do too much damage while fairing the first layer especially at the stern Most of the wood of course is the first plank which actually does look quite nice . I am not either coppering ( never looks quite right in my book) or painting . I claim no paint is because i prefer the natural wood but really mainly its because I am a truly terrible painter
  8. Teeny bit of progress at last - got keel and stem pieces on . All seems satisfactory. The stern post is not fixed. Hope tomorrow to check the "rabbets" and then check out the plank strip runs
  9. Oh dear - indeed you cant get rid of CA on rigging - but there is an additional issue over time. Over time it discolours and sort of " crystalizes"
  10. no burr - just as it comes out of the packet - if you hold the blade perpendicular to the surface comes out fine
  11. Well all ready to stick the keel etc bits on. was quite please with the line up. Lots of drill bit dowels and a couple of threaded "pedestal" rods. ( Yes I know I am overfussy !) Good depth of fake rabbet for the second planking strip. As you can see i didnt bother redoing the scarf and I lengthened the keel overhang while i was on. New "thicker" stern post in manufacture - temporary one used to line all up. Oh just in case anyone wondering the original keel 3mm nominal pieces were 2.9 and the new ones 3.25. I was much happier with wider ones which gave a better margin for fitting the1mm second strip against. Tried a few bits of second strip to check all - found that the first planking just need a shade more off to get a nice run into the keel bit so i will disentangle my fittings and just shave off a fraction moreof the hull. Oh just a note - i use my pdestal fittinh holes for more than just doing the pedestal - I find they come in hand at this stage bolted through in this case - but i normally use an internal captive nut they come in handy for aligment and to hold the keel while gluing.
  12. yes if you use wire wool -purchase a super magnet to get rid of the teeny bits I had a lovely model with a silk like finish - which went mottled after a couple of years after the minute specks of wire rusted !
  13. I go for a scraper for most flat or convex surface - simply a "snap off" blade off either ot the standard widths as needed . Byusing snap off you can adjust the width to suit by removing segment - I have a couple of pieces of slotted hard rubber from somewhere i use to handle teh blade
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