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SpyGlass

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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. Progressed further. JustI fitted the bits I should have fitted before. I had deliberately left off doing the aft deck , the taffrail and the counter because I was a bit puzzled by the complex stern construction - but would have been wise to have caught up there BEFORE I put on the bulwark strips Anyway needed a bit of careful easing into place but got them all nice. LITTLE NOTE - the counter has these nice lines on them which look like planking - but they are not - they are to facilitate the curving - so they go INSIDE the build.
  2. AT LAST !! Got the gunport strips on - not perfect but adequately. Became quite a jigsaw puzzle for the upper ones - 6 pieces instead of two !! But I got there in the end and a quick check with the gossamer thin second planking strip (with all the nice laser details on ) confirms line up - phew
  3. The wood grain isnt very straight but not a problem - its simple the laser lines weaken the strip in many places and you have to be more careful than I clearly am !! I have had MUCH more success using the plank bending nipper though. I think the difference is that with heat or soaking bending you are working with bending a length so there are strains along the length and pressing at one point can strain a weak point further along. But with the nipper you are only stressing an area immediately around the blade. I am in the middle of assembling the "jigsaw" of broken pieces - just scratching a piece for the top planks to butt against to replace the stem bit that broke - again. Hope to get it all together ok before the weekend .
  4. A beautiful build . There were a number of Fly builds on the site in teh past - including one of mine - which disappeared in the "big crash" Fly was the first kit but Pegasus is virtually identical following a few years after and there are more logs on Peggy on the site as has alread been said.
  5. RUNNING REPAIRS. Had a good look at the damage - and realised that all of it will be concealed later in the build. BUT the curve and fit of the gunport/bulwark strips needed these broken bits to define the curve. And of course the problem is made worse because I had broken several of the gunport strips !! So first I put in a temporary stem piece to line things up ( using my favourite metal dowels .75 mm bits) drilled to stem and to the nice jig supplied with the kit. Then positioned a ( broken) fore piece of an upper strip against the intact bulwark tops and the "registration mark" (under green peg) Used the bottom of that strip to fit the lower strip - making sure that came snugly up against my temporary stem piece and drilled a dowel hole to fix position. ( bad pic - top strip slipped as I took pic) Well now I hope I can fit the port strip using this one as a guide and then attach the top strips ! Then a bit of bulkhead and stem head repairs which as I say will be hidden - so more for strength than appearance
  6. well heres what MK said about the black wood in my Phoenix kit The black hornbeam is a bit rough surfaced - Unfortunately currently it is unsolvable for us, because that is the only black material on the market with acceptable price. In future we are planning to start dyeing large pieces of veneer, with enough length, but currently it is what it is.
  7. I dont think its actually ebony which would be very much more close grained - I think its dyed hornbeam. I had a note from MK I think said that.
  8. Whoops.. &()*(*&&*9*&*&*&!!!!!! Just shaping the bow a little with a 240 grit on a block - one bit broke - so I hit the adjacent one and. and... If this had been a "normal "build I wouldn't have done this - but the the second layer of planking is very detailed, a VERY precise and detailed and CANNOT be lengthed by making longer strips " as usual I found that the curve on the fore bulwarks had come out a bit too far - so the 2nd layer planking strip was going to be a bit short as the first layer need to be more snug to the stem . So the bulwarks needed to come down - just not quite this far ! Bulwarks are 4mm 3-ply, first layer planking is 1.5mm, second layer is 0.6mm. Picture of second layer planking propped above first layer top strip It shouldnt be too hard to repair - I can get the first layer right - thanks to the handy former they supply and if I fix the lower gunport strip first. Then I can retro fit scratched bulwarks and prow piece - they will be hidden anyway later BIG LESSON ON THESE KITS - THE LASER MARKINGS FOR BULWARK SHAPING ARE EXACT - CUT TO THEM DONT RELY ON SANDING
  9. AT LAST!! Bulwark strips shaped Nipper and an hours soak got the job done. They sit more or less to shape without any fastening just a teeny touch here and there needed before gluing. The red arrow points to a break in the top strip which will need to be aligned but not a problem The eagle eyed will spot the odd bulwark post missing or shortened on the starboard side - again thats fixable - i have the bits ! Phew. Just a couple of hints - the strips are solid but there is some grain along the length. So when soaked the strips curl and since they are from the sheet - one curls the right way - the other doesnt ! And when using the nipper at the ends in two cases the grain separated - looked just as if it was ply but isnt - just a touch of glue needed after bending complete.
  10. I think actually the problem is that these strips are heavily detailed both with surface detail, positions marks , through cuts and NEARLY through cuts The upper section is deliberately nearly cut through to remove the sections later so it tends to break there ! I did these with steam and strip bracing both sides but it still broke ! The lower strip problem is similar but with the continuous bottom section its manageable. But I think a nipper may be the tool for the job. PS Note the way the strips are horizontally cut at the stern - nice touch allows the strip to take a vertical curve. T
  11. I wonder if there is some variation in the depth of the laser detail cutting - I am a dab hand at strip bending with heat and steam but just didnt seem to work here. First one went a treat and then .... You are right about nipping - one of the reasons i gave it up was that i got better results with heat and steam because it was hard to get the "nip" depth right and there was a danger of chopping the strip But i shall see !!
  12. Spoke too soon !!!! Got one of the four strips on beautifully THEN had more problems - including a bulwark top breaking when I was clamping the strip - this kit is DELICATE!! Anyway - cannot afford to have any more strips break on laser lines or i am going to have a lining up problem with a jigsaw of pieces So I fell back to ordering an AL Plank nipper/bender. I havent used one for many many years but I think I would recommend for this build. Which should avoid the issue. NOW OF COURSE i just realised that what the instructions decribe as a "Notcher for rails" must indeed be a plank bender !! One really should READ THE MANUAL!! But I think I will soak as well as "nipping" !!!
  13. So fiddled with the bulwark sections - repaired several I had broken (and that strange top of the prow piece) and got the main deck on OK. That all seems good, (the bulwark tops may seem a little "wiggly" but actually so is the bulwark !) So started fairing down (though I had done a lot of trimming to the incised laser marks which seemed spot on ) The instructions are good but could do with an additional word of explanation here and there. I broke off the top of the prow and was worried that the forked slots were to locate some sort of beak platform ( oops there isnt one) but they are actually there to locate the bulwark strips by fitting into the bowsprit holes - BUT it doesnt say that anywhere so I spent a lot of time worrying about an exact fit which wasnt needed ! Moral - look at ALL the build pictures! Next challenge was bending the solid wood bulwark strips - they say soak for a while - tried doing it for hours no real flexibility - tried iron with and without steam - nope . So went back too good old - sheet in my boiling kettle for a few tens of seconds - works a treat! . BUT with all the laser cuts in these sheets you MUST use reinforcing strips either side to stop uneven bending or even breakage Did notice that the wood stayed " damp" and flexible for several minutes longer than I expected which was good.
  14. somwehere on the site I put this pic but I cant find it so have it again. the quick release involved the (lady) bosun standing on the cathead with bare feet each side of the pin and hammering out the retainer with a sledge hammer ! I checked my Boatmans Manual from 1942 and it fundementally says for small vessels with rope flake it and pay it out - for chain let the winch run with braking. That is what I was taught. To get anchor back though you need power and that is when the cable was taken round the barrel of a windlass. But it still seems to me a faff and so much easier to run the cable round one of the side bareels where it could be taken on and off. But a wise friend pointed out something I had forgotten - numbers of hands - its one thing sailing a 100 foot vessel with say 6 people on - a navy vessel may have 60 or more - many hands etc ! But i watched one of the sailing vessels out of Charlestown raise anchor the other day - powered winch till anchor was out of water - then hook and pulley set from forward yard to lift till secured on cathead
  15. I just call it a vessel ! And a fascinating different method of construction - I was looking for a quick easy build but this has thrown up a whole new set of issues. I am probably being over cautious but its fun !

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