Jump to content

SpyGlass

Members
  • Content Count

    2,458
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

3,849 profile views
  1. That stern thinning is something I have never been really comfortable with - even after 40 odd years building. Just keep sanding and checking - remember that you dont have to bed the strips totally again the stern post - you can leave the edge a bit proud and sand down to a nice run into the post. I try to get just over half the thickess bedded against the post which leave margin for error Your trial caulking looks really nice (but TOTALLY unrealistic of course - reality is thick paint or copper hiding everything !) But I am going to plain planking
  2. Humm - I would suggest getting the first layer back to stability first - build up as necessary. (You can even stick additional strips over the area and sand down. See this excerpt from Theodosius fix) Without going too far you dont have to concern yourself with the second layer initally Then when the first layer fixing is satisfactory, remove second layer planking over a wider section ( hope you used PVA and can loosen with IPA) and replank Easier if you remove more of the second layer rather than try to shape short bits . I had a similar probl
  3. Great hint about the side cutters - I have a great pair which were designed for trimming microcircuits - but they are over twenty years old and the edge is just about gone but I was shocked to find that though they are still made they were over £50 ( say $70) and MY admiral does ask questions too ! But these look great value !
  4. You are doing great just keep checking the width of the keel stern against the stern post. I havent been too well for a few days so I am still got stuck after adding my " thin to here " reference strip on the stern post. but I hope it works. Just as you noted indeed I found that i needed to be taking off width further forrad than I expected to get a nice smooth run rather than an abrupt thinning point. I have a long narrow flexible sanding strip - just abrasive paper on a bit of thin ply which is just teh job for getting that run in. In future though
  5. "Running" backstays are part of the "required " rigging - without them you can lose bits of mast. I think I have noted before that an old cutter i skippered long ago -actually lost her topmast (after my time) because of a foul up with the running backstay. However in my experience the lines are not treated in quite the same way as true fixed standing rigging . They have to have some adjustment tackle at the end which is normally like any other running rigging because it needs to move and be finely adjusted. Above the tackle fitting though it can be treated quite like standi
  6. I do like that "stick an extra plank on" trick ! Thats a brilliant first try at first planking. (You do realise that you need to take all the stern planking down to "very thin ")
  7. Lashed to the deck roughly where you show it would be usual. IF you are using what appears to be a standard folding stock hook. The only CA I have seen in real life had a modern "plow style" running over a bow runner and was stowed snug to the fitting.
  8. Sorry I missed that in the diagrams. But as shown they are attached too far aft to serve as "gybe preventors". In fact positioned as they are they would intefere with the boom and sail except when quite close hauled so they couldnt be permanently made up as shown. Well one lives and learns - i found this Use of Vangs Which addresses the subject and indeed when not in use they as described as being brought foward rather like running backstays are which addresses my concern above. Intriguing that an analogy to square sail control is made. (I have had the privileg
  9. Depends upon what you mean by a vang. Modern use is more to do with heaving down the boom to keep the sail shape. Those are left setup. More traditionally a vang would be mounted to guard against an unpredicted gybe. In that case the vangs would not normally be left setup since the conditions when they were needed - running nearly dead downwind - are comparitively rare and the lines would simply be in the way.
  10. Well i just dont like MDF and I dont like CA i am just old fashioned but at 76 i am allowed to be ! But let that rest. I wish I hadnt written that down - 76 aaaahhhhgggggg!! Anyway - I am waiting to get onto my new balcony before I sand the first planking - the dust is not good for me. It was due to be finished today, the glass fitters turned up on time, the sun shone -and only one glass sheet out of fourteen fitted !! So not a good day - time for an early night!
  11. Many kits now use MDF for keel and bulk head sections this gets over the problem of ply keels warping - all good. But though many users claim to have had no problems with MDF I have had a lot of problems with my limited experience of its use. I may have just been unlucky with the sample I had but ... First MDF is affected by moisture and it can be significant, I attach the pics First I took a section of a bulk head from my first essay at the Speedy kit. Measured it - place it in water for less than three hours and repeated - the results are evident
  12. I got a bit obsessive about getting the stern thinning right . Looking through the manual I saw a pieces of wood 1.5 mm thick ( gun carriages etc) - Euraka - cut a strip off. Placed my metal dowels into the predrilled keel to get it straight. predrilled a few 0.6 holes through the width of the 1.5 mm. Bitt of packing - there we are - thin down to that strip !!
  13. You have missed the point - the stern post and the rudder are the same thickness as the keel ply. If you dont take the first planking down and also a bit off the keel ply then your second planking will overlap the stern post - not butt up against it. Its not totally clear in the manual but the instrctions on page 14 top right refer The maths are easy - keel is 3mm thick - first plankings is 1.5mm both side = total width 6mm so you are 3mm wider than the stern post. Plus you need to take some more off for the ends of the second planking (1mm each side) to
  14. I think by hand is best - I have a weakness in my right arm and I used very thick strip 1.5 mm so i tried the sander and its seemed ok - but i think a much smaller sander would be better. But with thinner strip probably by hand is safer for the first build or two. I have always till now used a scraper instead of just sanding - usually just the edge of one of these "snap off" blades held vertically. I havent actually finished sanding yet i need to get the stern to thickess and make sure the run to that point is good and i have not really done much where the planks meet the st
×
×
  • Create New...