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SpyGlass

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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. I have always used brass rod because if you do have an accident it is soft enough to bend and take a bit of the impact. Used to use brass bolts which are fine but less flexible in length adustment. I did think of using a fine gauge screw but discarded the idea dont like using a screw with a point of any kind into the hull its less accurate and adjustable and damages the hull if you want to remove and replace. Could possibly could try a thinner say 2mm brass rod but seems a little too delicate for the job. SOOOO I am going to go with my normal 3mm brass rod - see my other logs for details, BUT that will mean esentially cutting the keel mdf in half ( or rather thirds with two cuts !!) so a fair chunk of strengthening to be done. I have dry built a fair chunk of the hull and i am encouraged that the additional pieces that Chris has designed will help with holding the hull in place. So my present plan is to drill pilot holes of 1mm through the stand rod positions ( remembering to allow for the keel not being at right angles to the vertical) No need to drill fixing holes for nuts - I think these can sit on the sub deck - maybe washered. - they will need epoxying or something to hold them in positions to allow the rod to be taken in and out. Add strengthening 3mm ply or mdf offcuts between the relevant bulkheads though i do have some 5mm ply but thats probably overkill ! Build the hull from there to say about to the point that all the deck beams are in place and all is stiff and then drill the 3mm holes from the pilots. Fix the nuts and proceed !! As for Lady Nelson - how far have you progressed with the build ?
  2. It maybe boils down to how tidy a workman you are ! I ALWAYS stick myself to something unintentional with CA!! More seriously I really feel that CA has an " aging " issue - definitely never never never use it on rigging in my book - it crystalizes, goes brittle, discolours and fails. And on some of my older models (~30 years!) there was clear deterioration on hull joints but of course that was in the VERY early days of CA Also it marks the wood surface more seriously if you get any spillage which is not instantly removed. I believe museums will not accept models built with CA - but that may be urban myth Oh and if you mix CA and PVA as you are using both you get a sort of frothy stuff as they interact. The froth seems to stick ok but does spread around a bit and marks like CA
  3. There are those who can use CA and those who cant. Chris builds his models I believe with a rusty pear of pliers and a Stanley box knife so he has skills undreamt of by us mortals PVA is safer it - comes off if needed and doesnt glue you to the model! But you need a lot of clamping - hence my addiction to pre bending and using a lot of rubber bands. Your first planking looks very neat - did you chamfer the edges of the planks - alwaya good practice especially in second layer. I have never found a good solution to plank caulking for myself - i have tried the lot pencil, marker pens, paper, thread.. The only plank methd where i am a bit satisfied is deck when i run a thin gauge strip between planks to provided a gap and then use the varnish fill to give defintion. I am SURE you already realise but if you are using wet strips - even hot air dried - it is wise to lets things settle to allow for a bit of wood contraction Another advantage of pre bending before fix.
  4. Loss of topmast no real problem - cut away the rubbish - after that routine . It was common practice to send down topmasts and handle vessels without them. This reference may shed light on the question Foudroyant Jury Rig
  5. DONT PANIC !! There is a great deal of difference between what "I" would do in this day and age and what a naval vessel would do in the great age of sail. But in practice in the old days - break spar not a problem - clear the clutter - part of standard training - spares available - remember that the spars on an old ship were routinely taken down and put up. BUT break a mast - ooohhh dear - quite different - first problem is not the obvious one maybe - the clutter will be over the side like a huge sea anchor - you aint going nowhere under control immediately. Usual course would be just to cut away all the rigging and let it go -. Carefully ! - there is a recorded instance of a vessel being sunk when its cut away mast pierced the hull Then the vessel can be rigged to use whatever is left - on a small single masted vessel usually the longest spare spar could be fished to the mast stub and some sort of sail made on it - there are actually a lot of cases of even modern vessels doing just that. Do not underestimate how resourceful Navy crews could be - there are many cases of vessels losing a mast - going to an island cutting down a tree and making a new one -read Cooks Voyages. I have been on a vessel which lost its mast in the middle of the night - only time I have actually heard " All hands on deck" called for real. "Cut the rigging" calls skipper in full command! " Its f***** slainless steel" came the swift reply. Consternation !! Then a little voice said " hang on I found this in the engine bay - will it help" and produced a set of bolt cutters! But not a good experience. We eventually got the mast clear and the skipper got a long tow line on the wreckage as it cleared. Steered for port under engine but then the RNLI life boat arrived took on the tow and shepherded us back. And I hope I am not being boring but I once chartered Second Life a 71 foot ketch built for the single handed Transatlantic race ( run still by my club the Royal Western YC). See Second Life The skipper on the race( Dijstreka?) lost his mast in the middle of the Atlantic and calmly went round undoing the rigging bolts on 1 inch thick stainless rigging until it was free - let the raffle go and then jury rigged a small sail on the spinnaker pole. Better sailor than I - I had enough grief handling her with ten on board.
  6. Fun day thinking about of planning work on the keel etc before assembly. Rabbets, stand fixing, stern "slimming" Normally would be looking at any rabbet work that may be needed but in this case i think that Chris has covered the bases. Stand fixing - I think i will go with my normal method but will have to modify it because the keel mdf is only 3mm. But first where will the fixings go - a bit of photoshopping gave me this sort of position position and that ties in with fixing points on the keel like this and a little bit of adjustment gives me a practical seeming position with the keel being strengthened both side between BHs 5 & 6 and 10 & 11 to take vertical 3mm bolts or rod through the keel. The pic above also shows the curve of the bearding line - i usually do first planking to a bit beyond that faired in to the keel - just makes it easier to fair the second planking. I am having a little think about slimming the keel down to the the stern post - its a place where I often make a mess and i want to try a few practice experiments on scrap on some different methods to overcome my handicap ! There is a limited amount i can do in my temporary home but perhaps a bit of BH shaping by blade not sanding. OR perhaps just build the cutter !!! Nice little mini project and if I mess it up I actually normally dont fit boats anyway !
  7. So - a quick dry fit of the base keel and BHs to see how it goes. Rather nice - good snug fit and I really like the way the thing MDF goes together - not so "scrapey" as ply. Did notice that the edges of some of the holding boards are looking a teeny bit "scuffed" so clearly need to take care, I dont think the smaller bits are going to be as resilient in mdf as in ply. But main purpose of dry fit was to asses how i want to proceed with mounting. I decided not a chance of doing my normal approach of drilling a hole through part of the keel - the keel will break if i drill any useful size. So only route is to do some early solid reinforcement of both side of the areas I want the mounting to be and then almost cut the keel in half with a 3mm drill. So perhap a 1mm guide hole through the keel.
  8. Not in period but this pic scared the life out of me just looking at it ! cutter before the wind. And this one
  9. I dont know where the picture that Frankie shows comes from but its simply wrong - artistic licence?. The windward backstay is shown as quite slack whle the sail is pressing against the leeward stay whch appears tight. Exactly the wrong way round. Correctly, the leeward stay is slacked off - or removed altogether, the windward stay is of course made up tight - or the mast falls over! You cant just use topsails to make passage downwind - take forever - ok for short reach manoeuveures. I have only been a passenger of a topsail cutter but have skippered several old cutters - two of which had running backstays. It is a mistake to think really of running backstays as standing rigging - their whole point is that they are not. It was usual, in appropriate condition to have the main boom against the aft shroud (with, as i mentioned before, a forward vang) I theeeenk a may have a pic - but it may be in my store since I still havent moved house ! It is anyway standard practice to reset the runners on every tack ( or gybe - but really dont do that for fun !) It goes - ready about - reattach or tauten up leeward runner - maybe sheet main in somewhat if doing a big tack- helm up( or down depending where you live !) - tack sail - make up new windward runner - free off new leeward runner - trim sail (slacking or moving leeward runner further as required) - make up fully taut windward runner. Oh come on B.E. - not tackling baggywrinkles - you cant fail us now !! Actually I read somewhere a method of doing it - involved coating the line with something like typing correction fluid - letting it dry so it formed a "tube" then twiddling the tube to free it and pushing it together. That would i suppose produce something like the cloth baggies - but the hairy type - hummmm
  10. A few points. First the mainsail could well be nearly at 90 degrees when running - one uses a forward vang to stop a disasterous gybe. Remember that the top mast and sails could often be struck for handling under certain conditions ( I watched schooner running out of Plymouth with both topmasts struck the other day - I had never seen that before). The topsails stays are running - if you are running before the wind with the main say out to port then its is likely that the starboard top stay would be made up and the port eased - or even disconnected - specifically so the main spars would be unimpeded
  11. Lovely lovely work on the spars. Unless I am totally misunderstanding you the backstay would come up against the mainsail spars when on the run so could reasonably be served. But more importantly maybe -the protection works two ways - the running rigging would come up against it at times
  12. I was toying with idea of just using bits of the laser engraved deck like the lovely nibbed section detail and the nice joints on the adjacent planks but could i get a colour match of the wood ? First thing though - does your laser deck show any grain marking over a wide area covering multiple planks - its the one thing that can spoil laser engraved detail and also perhaps its juuuust a wee bit too precise and perfect ? !
  13. Thanks Vane. I can actually claim to be sort of first on the team - I do Chris' website so I have been party to lots of details as she developed. It has been so frustrating watching the kits being sold from the site not to actually to be able to do anything with my kit since I am "between homes" I had sort of had ambitions to be the first to start a log but you have done a brilliant start there - not jealous or anything of course !!🤢
  14. Well even though I am still not in my new house yet, I could no longer resist the urge to have a tinker with the kit. All looks lovely . My first step is always to do work on the keel and bulkhead ply sections. A major part of the work for me is to arrange the fitting for the pedestal stand fastenings that I prefer. See Pickle example HERE Immediately first problem - I am not used to mdf and the keel is only 3mm thick so drilling holes to take mounting bolts or threaded rod is going to be a bit of a challenge. So a bit of practice on scrap seems in order. And selecting the position for those mounting points is also troubling me . So a pause till tomorrow - i want to dry fit the basic hull to see how it comes together and suitable places where I can strengthen the keel against the drill points/ I just wonder that in this case i may have to give up on pedestals

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