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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. There isnt any real mystery I think. In "real boat" building steam, has really been used " forever" simply as a practical way of heating large chunks of wood. But its the heat which does the work - but at our scale there are innumerable ways of getting that heat in ( though personally I think with fairly thin pieces of woods dampness assists a bit). For me 30 mins in hot water or short time over a kettle has always sufficed and is practical. I have experimented a lot - i have tried the" wrap in damp kitchen roll and microwave" method ( works quite well but the admiral o
  2. I am so pleased to note that am I not the only possible danger to houses and furniture !
  3. I have just been given a heat gun from my mates tool shed. Bit old but quite fancy - its got settings from about 50 C upwards toward flaming ! Before I start wasting good stock on practicing - any guidance of temperature for strip bending and for different woods - lime, pear and walnut say. My default was to go for the temperature I usually go for - from steam 100 C. The Admiral is tutting I am not sure whether she is afeared of me injuring myself or setting the house on fire!! Or both of course !
  4. I am sure it was just phrasing but Chucks method is A correct method not THE correct method. Its great for single layer builds and lovers of CA. That said I am a great fan of preshaping /prebending of planks - to even a greater extent than Chucks way does. But edge gluing a correctly fitted plank is not forcing it in ! On first layers, edge gluing allows for more robust sanding without fear of displacing a plank
  5. Am I missing something ? I do edge glue with PVA and use a damp cloth liberally- which usually leaves things fine. But I always sand the hull on both layers anyway which removes any small glue issue - why would one not sand ?
  6. The weather and things prevented me from getting the BH fairing done on the balcony as quickly as I had hoped. But soon be sorted - did add a few more bits And meanwhile I have found a use for my abandoned first build. Great former for strip shaping - a new version of double planking eh !!
  7. Its not perseverance its just that I used to build with flair and speed then my health, eyes , hands and brain failed plus three house moves and rebuilding work - NOTHING has gone right in my builds for years. A house move, carelessness and b**** MDF caught me on Speedy but now I have a calm atmosphere, decent work place, my tremor has nearly gone and with ply BHs and keel I am determined to do a reasonable job.
  8. You are not the least Speedy on here - I am !! I started at the begining of the year and having restarted I am now behind you !! You seem to have broken much less and had fewer problems with the MDF than I had. I note in the pics what appears to be a teeny bump or two at the positions of the forrard BHs - if they are actually there it might be wise to sand them out to give a cleaner run for the second planking - the lime is thick enough to take that I think
  9. lots of advice - you still havent told us what you are building - the explanations will simplify if you do
  10. Now comes the fun bit !! To get a neat result you may choose to chamfer on edge of each plank - if so remember that reduces the plank effective width by a fraction.
  11. There can be many many volumes written on this topic !! If you are a super detail scratch builder read the many manuals on actual ship building technique. But if you are building a kit then it really does depend upon which one to a great extent. And whether you are talking about single or double planking. So first question must be - which vessel are you building? Kit or scratch? Without that information the question may be too wide Just a note - you dont cut a bearding line - its a position line - on a kit build ITS along where the Bulkhead bottoms finish.
  12. Well I WAS going to sit out on the balcony and reshape bits - but the rain set in - so tomorrow . But spent the time marking up the areas to trim. And tested how the ply cut - really nicely with scalpel or blade so that not a worry Was going to do the usual and mark the edges of the Bulk heads with black pen -to ensure that the edge of each BH nearer midships is left untouched (if that is edge is left then absolute total disaster of overshaping can always be averted) BUT the laser char serves the purpose I found I have always found it is useful to use other bits of th
  13. Had a long day today came back and of course immediately realised that I just had forgotten I needed to do some preliminary Bulkhead shaping. Not essential but wise ! Tomorrow then.. Did drill out the holes to full size and trial fit the brass rod for mounting though.
  14. Bit of progress. Decided NOT to slim down stern at this point - its a very small area and i will do it on one hit with the first planking but I will terminate the first planking a bit short there at the stern. Plus that little curve up of the bottom strip that Chris shows. Drilled pilot holes 1mm for pedestal rods - did it by eye in the 3mm ply but sweated a lot after I had started drilling! I will make them out to 2mm after I have fixed the ply strengthening pieces shown - the 2mm brass rods are just positioned - not in place. The rods are positioned to allow a
  15. This belt is glue jointed - would remake the joint but i cant get that extra bit of slack. I think its too small to be stapled - at least with my skills and kit. I rather presumed that v shaped belts were unlikely but one of the pulleys is v shaped and appears to show signs of wear. But a round belt should be perfect - what is certain that a flat one as presently fitted is never going to last any time I have found a rubber one which suffice but it would be nice to have a leather one. Thank you chaps for the leads I will deal with the making a loop problem wh
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