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About SpyGlass

  • Birthday 07/21/1944

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  1. Tanganikya in my experience works OK for decks but is murder elsewhere - keep away from it . It splits along the grain too easily. Second layer thickness - I have never managed to get a first layer finish so good that I would risk a 0.5 second layer - 1mm is safer.
  2. I DONT SUGGEST YOU DO THIS But if you are really after getting a caulked look run a blade - or i use a thin feeler gauge along the joins and any finish over that will show the joins better - but your hand would need to be MUCH steadier than mine to do that !!! Leave it -its a nice job - and next time ..
  3. I think that all will have gathered by now that Gary likes CA and I like PVA!😁
  4. Indeed skippers spent all their time making the crews holystone thedeck flat!! It looks great to me - I would leave it as a nice job ! The only comment is that in your pic the wood looks a touch yellow - what wood is it ?
  5. You learn by making mistakes - i have been doing this hobby for over forty years and as you can see I am still making them !! There are two golden rules about fairing I have found You probably are ok as long as you leave the relevant forrard or aft edge of the BH intact as you fair. And when you have finished your first fairing pass - you almost certainly still need to do more fairing at stem and stern !
  6. To be honest, in my opinion, rabbets are worried about too much! (Apart from super builders!) On a plank on BH ,two layer kit, you cannot emulate the real thing, and often the areas where a rabbet is are painted over or coppered ! But a rabbet can help getting a nice first layer -rabbet - Pegasus/Fly The usual scenario is one makes a good attempt at a rabbet and does the first layer and LO the rabbet has disappeared when you want it for the second layer. BUT you can use "rabbet" like grooves to assist nice building But an area that can show is the bow
  7. I have never risked applying heat on the build - since I use PVA it could soften existing joins . But that seems to have worked fine for you. I see you use the "false rabbet" method at the bow with a bit of scrap - invaluable !
  8. I havent died - but my builders company did and then Christmas and Covid and and... I am ready to go but I thought I had better tidy up my workroom before I started. So on my hands and knees picking up dropped pins and other debris ( just over 40 dropped pins so far!!)
  9. Have a look a Cornwall Model Boats they stock walnut strip and its not tooo expensive so maybe just replace ? How much do you need I have some Amati 1x4 in my wood box with no plans for it!
  10. Really coming along nicely! Is it the pic - or is this vessel rudderless??
  11. Steam it and clamp it to a board. You shouldnt need a jig just compare to the piece it has to fit. With such a short piece it should be enough just to hold the strip in the spout of a kettle If you need a bit of a "3D" bend use scrap to lift the centre. Check the grain - its safer, but not totally esssential, to do the bend with a section which has the grain running straight.
  12. I would only add that I edge glue first planking simply to make it a more coherent surface for sanding if you dont you can get a strip "dip" between bulkheads as you sand. And with glued strips its closer to sanding a single surface rather than get any movement between strips. I just use a fine needle syringe to apply the glue along the edge. As far as getting glue on a final layer - i have never had a proble with PVA as long as i keep damp cloth to hand - but CA can leave very ghard to remove markings even if wiped at once
  13. I suspect that few of us plank first layers well enough to just to need a sand for finish - usually there are bumps and hollows and a bit of carvelling to shape/smooth down - that when you hit the pins if you leave them in!
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