Jack Panzeca

Thanks Bindy, it is amazing how much detail you get from a hi res digital image.  Photography has been my hobby much longer than ship building (nearing 60 years) and I work at it all the time.  Take a look at http://www.27birds.com to see some of my work.  I have not updated the site in several years but it is on my list of things to do soon.  It is spring here and I am anxious to get out and chase flowers and bugs.  Thanks for looking.

Hi Pete, welcome to the build.  The scrollwork is part of the kit.  It does take a little adjustment to make it work.  It is in fact the reason I chose this kit.  It is also a large scale, nearly 35 inches stem to stern.  I started the build with changes in mind and they have worked out pretty well so far.  
 
Hello Don, welcome as well.  The Billing Boats kit was the only one I found with scroll work of any kind.  I knew that I was not ready to try that on my own.  One thought is that you could print the pictures of the scrollwork from my log to scale for yours and use them as a pattern.  If you need any additional views I will be happy to take the photos.
 
Von_Kossa has a wonderful build log on MSW as well  Oseberg Von_Kossa    I have learned a lot from his experience.  

I stripped off the back layer of the inside piece of scrollwork with a scalpel blade so that it would lay flat with the rest of the scrollwork.
 
  
 
There is a spacer at the top of the scrollwork where it pinches together.  It is sanded down and glued to the top of the structure.  There is also a small spacer needed where the scrollwork meets.
 

 
Another small piece cut to fit at the bottom of the scroll.  Also, a full hull length spacer at the top of the hull planking to give the last two vertical planks a place to land.  Obechi was specified but it would not take the bend without cracking so I used basswood.   I soaked it and bent it with a curling iron.
 

 
Added the last two vertical planks.
 

I have been struggling with the same issue.  It is difficult to tell from the museum pictures if those lines go all the way around the scroll.  I have been tempted to do just what you suggest but I am afraid of damaging the veneer.  I believe that once everything is stained the scroll will not look so different.  For now I think that I will leave it as it is.  That does not mean that I will not change my mind later.     I plan to start on the deck in the next few days.

Another small update.....
 
New additions include the vertical strips of wood on the hull mid-ship. I'm not sure of the name or function of these timbers, but I'm wondering if they could be for protection of the hull when the lowering of the ship's boats? 
 
Also added are more ornamentation pieces, such as the eagles and the piece at the top of the gallery door.
Now to make these same pieces for the port side.
 

 

 

The Obechi is on the way.  I cut the bundle in half and put it in a small mailing tube.  I will ship it in one hour.
 

I have 17 pieces.  Please send me a private message with your shipping address and I will send them right away.

Hi All     would any one be wiling to give their thoughts on a unimat 6in1 for modeling. would this be a good investment or should i place it in dusty bin
                                  grizzler22 

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

The plywood edges are just ugly.  I have intended all along to cover them.  I actually worked out pretty well.  Here are the before pictures:
 

 
I used 1/64 red oak veneer which was fairly flexible but would not come close to making the tight curve on the inside of the scrollwork without cracking.  I steamed it for about 15 minutes and wrapped it around a ¼ inch dowel and clamped it until it dried.  It held the bend well and it fit right into place.
 

 
The second piece was a little more difficult because it was a tight squeeze with two strips in the same spot.  It also required a little sanding to get clearance between the two at the inner most part.
 

 
All I got done today (all day) was the stern, the bow should go faster since I have it figured out now.  I still need to tie in the keel and touch up the sanding.  The pictures show all the flaws but it looks really nice in real life.

Truly amazing work.  The beauty of your build leaves me staring at the monitor and shaking my head.  The woodwork (along with everything else) is brilliant.  Your project is very inspirational.  Thanks for sharing.

Hi Dee Dee,
 
Welcome Aboard!  The more the merrier.  I read somewhere on this forum that you should build a ship that you love.  Well, I love this ship.  I love the lines, I love what the Vikings did with them.  
 
I am working on the last parts of the hull.  Mostly oak veneer on the keel.  The interior has a lot more work than it looks.  90% of the planking is straight forward but that last 10% is a challenge.
 
Thanks for looking in.

Hi David B,
Thanks for following.  I feels great to be working on the build again.  I did hang out in the shipyard while my hand was mending but it was only wishful thinking.  When I retired I moved my office to the shipyard so I am always around the smell of sawdust.  If you want a larger file of the Sedona picture just let me know.  Check out www.27birds.com for more photos.  I have not updated it in years but it will give you an idea of my other hobby.  Someday soon I will add the new stuff.
 
Hi Keith W,
Thanks for checking in.  Good suggestion, it would look more like the original.
 
And thanks to all for the likes.
 
Here are some test pics.  The first 2 show the end as it is now.  I made pieces from scrap of the same material.  I sanded the edges round and used a walnut stain on one and a medium oak on the other.  We had discussion earlier about staining the ship dark like the museum original or a lighter color more like the ships when new.  The walnut definitely hides the plywood ends better.  Personally I like the look of the lighter stain but the walnut may be more practical.  David B was this the test you had in mind?
 
My choices seem to be to leave the scrolls flat and cover them with veneer (not as easy as it sounds on that tight curve) or sanding the edges round and staining.  I could not get the veneer to curve around the scroll and then bend over the rounded edges.  Carving any scrollwork that the sanding erases should be achievable since it is very basic. 
 

The gun port liners are almost done, but to break up the monotony I started working on the decorative frames for the upper gun ports. The starboard side is finished and I'm almost finished the port side.
 

 

 

demonborger. I finally understood what they mean. They say do not plank the area between frames 6 to 12, but they fail to specify that this area will be planked later once you plank the hull and use the tips of those frames to build the bulwarks. Those tips will be cut then and then you proceed with the planking of this area, covering the broken frames. This however seems like it will be harder later to do an even planking job. You need to match two opposing ends. What I am doing is planking the whole false deck, and leave to later just the area near the edges of the frames that will be cut. I feel this will make a better and easier planking job.
 
 
 

 

 

Hi Marc,
 
I think the flags look great.  Dullcote will protect them as well as take the shine down a little.
 
 
 

Hi Marc,
 
I just went through your build log, nice job.  I will bet that you are happy to be almost finished with your busy season here.
I noticed your avatar changed to a spring hat.  Nice.
 
Years ago I visited Amsterdam and was busily buying wooden shoes to take home to family and friends.  I happened upon this rather special wooden shoe and decided that I had to have it.
 

 
The pennant and the top of the mast had broken off in shipment and I did not notice until the packing had been disposed of.  That resulted in some serious dumpster diving until it was recovered.  
 
Great work on the yacht.

Hi Dee Dee,
 
Welcome Aboard!  The more the merrier.  I read somewhere on this forum that you should build a ship that you love.  Well, I love this ship.  I love the lines, I love what the Vikings did with them.  
 
I am working on the last parts of the hull.  Mostly oak veneer on the keel.  The interior has a lot more work than it looks.  90% of the planking is straight forward but that last 10% is a challenge.
 
Thanks for looking in.

I decided to take a break from the hull and do something a little different.  I put together he mast foot and as others have found it is not very nice.  It is lots of plywood stacked together with a plywood top.  The center part is a little thinner than the top so if I planned to use it I would have to fill the sides as well.
 

 
I used a ¾ x ¾ x 5 inch piece of red oak instead.  I think it was meant to be a pen blank.
 

 
I used a band saw to cut the major curves and a 1 inch belt sander to refine it.
 

 
I will drill the hole for the mast and do the finish sanding later but I was really pleased with the way it turned out.  I bought a couple of spares in case I messed up.  I am sure they will come in handy later on.
 
 

Hi Marc,
 
I think the flags look great.  Dullcote will protect them as well as take the shine down a little.