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richardt

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    Tumbler Ridge BC Canada

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  1. A problem that often arises with cast metal adhesion is that the parts are coated with wax-like substances that are used as release agents from the mould. This presents problems with any adhesive. I suggest that the parts are soaked briefly in acetone and scrubbed lightly to remove these first and then allow them to dry before mounting. I prefer to use thickened CA over epoxy. Richard
  2. Hey Kester, Now you're officially allowed to swing the lead! Cheers (and put some water in it) Richard
  3. Never a day day goes by without us learning something new. Hey, Danny, have they really made you a rear admiral so far towards the rear that you're now in the outback? Richard
  4. Hi again Dan, I see you gave me a promotion to middi! Gone is my obituary rectangle. But what is the new Gizmo? I can only guess at a bicorn hat with a press card in the band !?! Richard
  5. Hi Dan, Thanks a million. I was searching for Oliver instead of Olivier. Dammit. Great Site. One of our guys was a bit stumped on scratching a Stern Lantern and there's a method in the "Accessories" section. I couldn't find it at the time but I hope he picks up this thread. Cheers, Richard
  6. Hi Pete, As others advised, assemble the model first. I prefer to use 100% PureTung Oil and not stuff that has been adulterated or otherwise processed in any way. The key to getting a good finish is to use as little as possible spread as far as possible. Once you have coated the model, wipe off any excess and remove as much as possible. Use Q-Tips etc. to remove excess oil that accumulates in corners. Only then allow the model to stand for a couple of days to allow the oil to penetrate the wood. It should be looking quite good at this stage but i find an improvement in applying a second coat working exactly as before. Further coats do not seem to enhance the finish and are more likely to just thicken the coating. Always experiment first to satisfy yourself beforehand. Richard
  7. Hi cabrapente, I think your troubles started when you glued your templates to the planks. If you rub your glue stick onto the paper template it can distort the template and any distortion will be transferred to the part when you cut it out. What I do is rub the glue stick on the plank and then carefully place the template onto the glue. Then put a piece of scrap paper over the template and then gently press it down. When it is properly in place, carefully remove the scrap paper and your template will be perfect. Instead of sticking the template on the wood, you are rather sticking the wood on the template. Before gluing the futtocks together, first compare everything against the plans and make sure that the butt ends are square and the parts follow the hull curve properly. I'm sure that you will still end up with a nice hull with careful sanding but it can be done without sweat and tears. Cheers, Richard
  8. Hi Helmsman, You gave good advice. The Sawbird blades are made in Germany rather than the junk that comes from Inner Mongolia or other places in the East. Richard
  9. Hi Guys, As you well know, Larry and I are trying to develop some reference material on adhesives and you will be introduced to the result in due course. We will be calling on your knowledge and input in due course and I thank those who have already expressed some of their views in the meantime. However, I am concerned about the information requested pertaining to medical issues. We are not qualified to comment on this and it will not form a part of our research. However I can provide some background on what I know and accept to be truthful: The substance emanates from research into low m.w. esterification conducted by the Eastman Chemical Co. about 80 years ago. An accident with one of the intermediate products landed in the eyes of a lab technician whose eyes were immediately glued closed from, as it was later discovered, the presence of water that activates the adhesive properties and even the minimal pressure exerted by the closing eyelids that set up sufficient pressure to promote adhesion. The only action that could be taken was to open the eyes by surgery. This story was told to me a long while back by a senior staff member of Eastman and I had no reason to disbelieve him. Alarmed as Eastman may have been, they immediately saw the potential value of the substance and it was put on the market soon afterwards and was called Eastman 910. More recently it would appear that patents expired and there was a prolification of new producers with similar products. These are what we call CA (cyanoacrylate) adhesives. Slight modifications by the new manufacturers led to the production of products with varying degrees of viscosity. Selective additives also produced substances with gap filling properties and other desireable properties that make them attractive to hobbyists. The thin very mobile product was the first and the initial application was, ironically, medically related because it was used to seal wounds instead of using sutures in certain instances. I am not aware of any specific toxicology studies and other than a temporary reaction to contact with the skin, it does not seem to have any lasting negative effects. This is not the the case with inhalation of the fumes and I urge all to avoid this under all circumstances. There are many reports of allergies that should be brought to the attention of your doctor. I am also led to believe that fumes generated by burning CA are particularly dangerous. In this respect, many modellers make a small fork from grinding back the eye of a needle to produce two tines. This is useful to lift and transport a small droplet of the material. There is no harm in this but do not burn the excess off the needle and inhale the smoke. I urge you to use the substance in the smallest possible quantity of the material and never take the bottle to your model. Always use a suitable disposable surface from where you can lift the required quantiy. The fumes of the material are suffocating and reaction to the smallest trace in the atmosphere will alert you to its presence. Take due care. Richard
  10. Hi again Oli, I forgot to stress that you must be very careful that you don't misalign the squareness of the fit when you do the sanding. When I look at the pic of the pile of bulkheads it would seem that the slots tend to open slightly at the mouth. This could have been caused when you tried the dry fit. It could also be a shadow or just my imagination but it may indicate the cause of the problem. Richard
  11. Hi Oli, You don't want them so tight. Inspect the slots to see if they are correctly shaped and without projections that could be the problem. Otherwise you will have to sand them down a bit. They also must not be so loose as to wobble. You may find it easier to sand the keel below and the bulkheards above the slots on both sides rather than opening up the slots. It should end up with a nice comfortable sliding fit. Check the mast steps at the same time and make sure that they will accept the dowels nicely or adjust them accordingly. Cheers, Richard
  12. Hi again Brian, Feedback is that I did the Google and although there was a mention of Oliver Bello, there was no true working link. It's a pity because he was a top-drawer craftsman in every sense of the word and gave much to the hobby. He had an excellent method for scratching stern lanterns that could have helped one of our mutual friends considerably. There was, however, a great deal of exposure available for those seeking the alternative model expression but, alas, I'm an old fogey and much of it was not all that exciting for me. Richard
  13. Thanks Brian, I'll do Google and see what fish bite. There's a lot of good stuff here, I assure you. Richard
  14. Hi Larry, That sounds like great news and I think that the next step would be for you to contact, say Chuck, by pm and make your proposal and ask for board approval and support. We don't want to tramp on any toes right at the start. Cheers and Good Luck, Richard

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