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Maury S

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About Maury S

  • Rank
    Maury S

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Fort Worth, TX, USA
  • Interests
    Member: Nautical Research Guild
    Current Build: C. Chase, Centerboard Schooner
    Recent Builds:
    Anchor Hoy
    Echo Cross Section from Admiralty Models
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/

    Long Boat from MS http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-Chuck/


    Fair American (POF) from Laukstreet.
    http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/

Contact Methods

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    mstuffmann@yahoo.com

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  1. Got it. I mistakenly thought it was being made with Alaskan Yellow Cedar (AYC). Same issue I imagine because it's soft like Bass. Maur
  2. Nice result Toni. Back to the question about 1500 grit sandpaper. Why do you think it necessary to go beyond 320? Maury
  3. Toni, I've never seen anyone sand unfinished wood finer than 320. Do you think the AYC needs such treatment? Maury
  4. Test fit of stanchions between main rail and monkey rail. The main rail is marked, then monkey rail is taped to it and both are drilled out simultaneously. To use Druxey's term; a bit fiddy getting them all in place. (not sure it's the proper usage of the term). Maury
  5. The rail is pinned and is marked for the next two pins moving aft, drilled and repeated. As I move aft, slight deviations in the arc of the rail show up, so the rail is removed, slightly edge-bent and put back on. Jig for bending is simple: Two resistance boards (upper left and right) are the thickness of the plank (rail) to be bent, and have a covering board to prevent the rail from rising up and twisting. The lever-arm has a similar covering board. Slightly move the lever with a heat source applied until the small adjustment is done. Maury
  6. Starting to work on the main rail. They are just pinned for now to get things lined up. Scarph joint in the rail. Lots more work to be done. Maury
  7. The monkey rail (at the qtr. deck) is supported by stanchions...34 of them, 1 foot above the main rail. I do not have a duplicator, so I bought a pack of 6 mm stanchions from Model Expo-online. They need a center pin so I have to drill a hole drilled through to accept a .027" pin. Final product below: There were complications to accomplish this. I need to drill a hole for the pin, top to bottom. I need some way of holding the piece so the hole is centered. The base of the stanchion is about .011+", the cap is about .010+" and the narrowest part is about .05". I'm far from expert with a mill. If all the boring was done without moving the x or y-axis, everything should be centered. To drill from the base toward the top, using the mill I made a jig with a .010" hole a little shorter than 6 mm deep so the inverted stanchion would slide into the hole (top to bottom), but the wider base would be a bit proud of the jig and held centered. See inverted stanchion inserted in jig. A #71 drill bit was used to bore a little more than 3 mm deep. (boring all the way through never came out centered on the other end). All the pieces were drilled this way. Next, how to bore from the center of the narrower top down to complete the hole? In the jig, I bored another hole .011", wide enough to hold the (bottom of the) stanchion, but the top was loose, so never plumb. How to hold the top so it was centered on the drill bit axis? I bored a 2.35 MM hole . in a piece of scrap lined up on the jig and reamed it out so the cap of the stanchion would just fit in. The stanchion was inserted (upright) in the larger hole and the "scrap" piece was then placed over the cap, held in place so the drilling from the top down was centered on the drill axis. After drilling a little more than 3 mm deep, it was removed from the jig and checked to see of the pin would be centered. All were. Back to the rails. Maury
  8. Just received an email alert. https://contenti.com/sale-specials They are having a sale. (I have no connection to the company) Maury
  9. There is a small gap between the top of the wale and the bottom of the covering board. Only way to solve the problem is to replace the wale. New piece installed at the fore. Maury
  10. Bulwarks are in and being evened and faired. Note the strake above the covering board is a scupper strake (2.5" open to the next strake above). Maury
  11. Thanks Dave, What about the acid content of wrapping paper? M
  12. Chapelle, in The American Fishing Schooners 1825 - 1935 devotes a full page to the sizes of mast hoops. I recall some recent discussion, but can't find it in a search. I've been saving planed shavings from the edge of 1/16" Swiss Pear for this purpose. I waxed a piece of dowel that is about 25% larger than the maximum diameter of the main and foremasts. I then carefully loaded a coil onto the dowel, dampened the shaving and built up about 3 - 4 layers using dilute white glue to hold the shaving in place on itself. Pretty good result. A light sanding on the edges will bring them to the specified width. 28 more to go. Maury
  13. I turned some windlass barrels. They are correct scale to the plans. Whelps will be tough. Maury Maury
  14. I spent a day "kit bashing" Syren Ship Model's Windlass kit. It came out OK but the scale is too large for this boat. Boats of 85 - 105' had windlasses of 18 - 24" max. diameter. The original plans show a max diameter of about 15". These come out somewhere above 20" and there is no room to maneuver around it on deck. I'm using some stacked watch gears for the purchase rim. The barrels are bashed from the kit and the construction system is great. I'm not a fan of AYC since it doesn't sand as well as box. The real windlasses of the era were built from a solid log so I'll try that for the barrels. This boat was built in 1846, right about the time that the pump-brake windlass was developed and it's not clear from Chapelle's plan that this was of the pump-brake type. Maury

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