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Maury S

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Everything posted by Maury S

  1. Test fit of stanchions between main rail and monkey rail. The main rail is marked, then monkey rail is taped to it and both are drilled out simultaneously. To use Druxey's term; a bit fiddy getting them all in place. (not sure it's the proper usage of the term). Maury
  2. The rail is pinned and is marked for the next two pins moving aft, drilled and repeated. As I move aft, slight deviations in the arc of the rail show up, so the rail is removed, slightly edge-bent and put back on. Jig for bending is simple: Two resistance boards (upper left and right) are the thickness of the plank (rail) to be bent, and have a covering board to prevent the rail from rising up and twisting. The lever-arm has a similar covering board. Slightly move the lever with a heat source applied until the small adjustment is done. Maury
  3. Starting to work on the main rail. They are just pinned for now to get things lined up. Scarph joint in the rail. Lots more work to be done. Maury
  4. The monkey rail (at the qtr. deck) is supported by stanchions...34 of them, 1 foot above the main rail. I do not have a duplicator, so I bought a pack of 6 mm stanchions from Model Expo-online. They need a center pin so I have to drill a hole drilled through to accept a .027" pin. Final product below: There were complications to accomplish this. I need to drill a hole for the pin, top to bottom. I need some way of holding the piece so the hole is centered. The base of the stanchion is about .011+", the cap is about .010+" and the narrowest part is about .05". I'm far from expert with a mill. If all the boring was done without moving the x or y-axis, everything should be centered. To drill from the base toward the top, using the mill I made a jig with a .010" hole a little shorter than 6 mm deep so the inverted stanchion would slide into the hole (top to bottom), but the wider base would be a bit proud of the jig and held centered. See inverted stanchion inserted in jig. A #71 drill bit was used to bore a little more than 3 mm deep. (boring all the way through never came out centered on the other end). All the pieces were drilled this way. Next, how to bore from the center of the narrower top down to complete the hole? In the jig, I bored another hole .011", wide enough to hold the (bottom of the) stanchion, but the top was loose, so never plumb. How to hold the top so it was centered on the drill bit axis? I bored a 2.35 MM hole . in a piece of scrap lined up on the jig and reamed it out so the cap of the stanchion would just fit in. The stanchion was inserted (upright) in the larger hole and the "scrap" piece was then placed over the cap, held in place so the drilling from the top down was centered on the drill axis. After drilling a little more than 3 mm deep, it was removed from the jig and checked to see of the pin would be centered. All were. Back to the rails. Maury
  5. Just received an email alert. https://contenti.com/sale-specials They are having a sale. (I have no connection to the company) Maury
  6. There is a small gap between the top of the wale and the bottom of the covering board. Only way to solve the problem is to replace the wale. New piece installed at the fore. Maury
  7. Bulwarks are in and being evened and faired. Note the strake above the covering board is a scupper strake (2.5" open to the next strake above). Maury
  8. Thanks Dave, What about the acid content of wrapping paper? M
  9. Chapelle, in The American Fishing Schooners 1825 - 1935 devotes a full page to the sizes of mast hoops. I recall some recent discussion, but can't find it in a search. I've been saving planed shavings from the edge of 1/16" Swiss Pear for this purpose. I waxed a piece of dowel that is about 25% larger than the maximum diameter of the main and foremasts. I then carefully loaded a coil onto the dowel, dampened the shaving and built up about 3 - 4 layers using dilute white glue to hold the shaving in place on itself. Pretty good result. A light sanding on the edges will bring them to the specified width. 28 more to go. Maury
  10. I turned some windlass barrels. They are correct scale to the plans. Whelps will be tough. Maury Maury
  11. I spent a day "kit bashing" Syren Ship Model's Windlass kit. It came out OK but the scale is too large for this boat. Boats of 85 - 105' had windlasses of 18 - 24" max. diameter. The original plans show a max diameter of about 15". These come out somewhere above 20" and there is no room to maneuver around it on deck. I'm using some stacked watch gears for the purchase rim. The barrels are bashed from the kit and the construction system is great. I'm not a fan of AYC since it doesn't sand as well as box. The real windlasses of the era were built from a solid log so I'll try that for the barrels. This boat was built in 1846, right about the time that the pump-brake windlass was developed and it's not clear from Chapelle's plan that this was of the pump-brake type. Maury
  12. Regarding raising and lowering the centerboard...There are a couple of methods. 1] The board itself is usually weighted and will drop as much as allowed from this weight. There is a pendant attached to the mainmast with a guntackle arrangement to raise it. 2] Sometimes, instead of a chain or line, there was a 1" (+ / -) rod attached to the CB so downward pressure can be applied via the rod. At this stage, that's how this model is rigged. With a chain attachment, a pin was inserted in a link at the deck to prevent it from dropping too far. Maury
  13. Lots of minor things being done. Here is the plug-stock rudder. It is round from its head down to the upper pintle. The key is the center of the round stock has to correspond to the fore side of the blade. The stock starts as a 4-sided piece, marked 7-10-7 and made 8-sided, then rounded with sandpaper. Before the rounding, I routed out a flat face on the aft edge of the stock and an off-setting notch on the fore side of the blade. They were then aligned on the mill and holes for the reinforcing bolts were drilled. The blade was assembled and tapered. Pins will be cut off flush before installation. As always, the pintles and gudgeons will be a challenge for me. Maury
  14. A little work on the hatch covers. They each have a staple and ring in opposing corners. This is a simple jig I use for holding the cover and staple. Just the same sized holes as the hatch cover, Rather than one hole for an eyebolt, I use two closely spaced holes for a staple (U-shaped wire.). The ring is held closer to the board rather than burying the heel of the eyebolt. The wire is hardened (stretched), wrapped around a 1/16" drill bit (3" internal dia. at scale) the cut off, pieces flattened a bit and squeezed together. they will be blackened later in a batch with other metal work. \ Another advantage is I only have to solder the rings, not an eye. Maury
  15. The planking is done. Everything from the companionway back to the aft hatch on the port side is left open (unplanked). From the bow back to the mainmast partners in the center of the boat (width of the hatches) is a "kingplank" about 1.5" thicker than the remaining planking. Back to fitting all those little pieces in the covering board. Maury
  16. Before planking any further, I need to make sure the partners are correctly aligned (port to starboard) so the mast is plumb. With my digital level, I made sure the window frame (in the background) is plumb. I shimmed up the building board to level and then aligned the temporary mast pole with the window frame. Maury
  17. The tedious process of filling the notches in the covering board continues. Once sanded they will be almost invisible. Wheelbox done. Axle is set in but the wheel will be a challenge. "American Fishing Schooners" (Chapelle) says the wheels were wooden until the middle 1860's.
  18. The mast steps are in so I can start on the deck planking. Gluing in the covering boards comes first. Weighted down with cross beams for the glue to set. The main deck planks are parallel to the center line. The quarterdeck planks are parallel to the sides of the cabin trunk. With one plank in on the starboard side abutting the cabin, I worked across the section behind the cabin. The wheelbox is being built up around a plug cut to shape. Edges will be sanded and the starboard side will be put on next, followed by the roof. Maury Maury
  19. The mast steps are in so I can start on the deck planking. Gluing in the covering boards comes first. Weighted down with cross beams for the glue to set. The main deck planks are parallel to the center line. The quarterdeck planks are parallel to the sides of the cabin trunk. With one plank in on the starboard side abutting the cabin, I worked across the section behind the cabin. The wheelbox is being built up around a plug cut to shape. Edges will be sanded and the starboard side will be put on next, followed by the roof. Maury Mary
  20. Before I can proceed to the deck planking, I need to get the mast steps in place. That means temporary masts to get the 4% rake (taken from the plans). Since there are no records of the masting, I've got to make some estimates. In all of my sources, I have not found any specific mast measurements. From drawings and photos of similar boats built around the same time (1845-50) I've arrived at average mast heights (they are lofty, indeed). Foremasts seem to average 84 - 87% of length between perpendiculars and mainmasts 86 - 88% of length. Similar relationships to moulded beam confirms these mast lengths. The original plans from Chapelle show the diameters at the deck level between 10.5" and 11". Chapelle's American Fishing Schooners has a discussion on diameters and tapers that line up closely with the above comments. Interesting point says the tapers were not the same on all sides (after side of masts should be straight from boom to the trestletrees) but this rule was often not adhered to. The most clear illustration I've found is from the cover of Chesapeake Bay Schooners, by Snediker and Jensen. It shows a taper from deck to top of about one-third (from 11" to 7.34"). Does anyone have any better information or source? Maury
  21. With the 2nd mate away at a reunion, I had a ot of time to work on some details. Cabin has been finished except for the doors for some time. Just set on the frames. The covering boards are done except for gluing them in place and inserting the LITTLE pieces outside of each frame. The hatch coamings are in holly and are two parts: Inner that goes inside the frames and provides the ledges for the covers and outer that sits on top of the frames. The pieces are lap-jointed. The companionway sits on top of coamings. Not glued in yet and the doors are not yet made. The hatch covers are cherry (scrap left over from a prior build) and finished with some walnut Howard Restor-a-Finish to provide some contrast. Some finishing left to do on the hatch coamings. And a lot of dust removal to be done. Maury
  22. Covering board segments roughly trimmed to shape (net glued in yet). Inboard about 6" wide from frames, outboard just proud of planking. The bull nose was scraped to shape and the underside routed out on the mill. Pencil lines are drawn just for the photo...will not be visible once installed.
  23. Two full days of cutting and filing and the port side covering boards are ready for final trimming. It took three pieces for the forward board because of the bend in the deck at frame E through frame K. They will fit a little bit more snugly against the frames when glued in. Biggest gap is about 1/64th". Inboard width from frame to edge will be 6" (1/8" at scale). Outboard side will be a hair proud of the adjacent planking. Maury
  24. I started on the covering board. First I created an internal deck pattern from my original drawing and adjusted it to "as built". After laying it on the deck, I then laid a steel rule up against both edges of each frame and marked the pattern. The covering board will be 6" (1/8" at scale) wide inboard from the frames, 6" for the frames and another 6" outboard of the frames. This allows it to cover the edge of the plank with a little to spare. I can now make a template for the board. I used some 1/32" scrap material and transferred the frame locations onto it. After a lot of filing for fine adjustments, I have a good pattern for making the piece from box wood. So much sanding/ filing, card stock would have never worked. Transferred to box wood. Still some minor adjustments to mate the slots to the frames. This is about 15% of the total I'll need, and I have the technique down now. Maury

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