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Maury S

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Everything posted by Maury S

  1. Bow sprit irons: The two bands at the end of the bowsprit are made from .016" (3/4" @ scale) soft copper sheet. I cemented the sheet to a scrap of 1/16" ? scrap plywood and parted off a strip 1/16" (3") for the bands. I drilled holes in the strip 1/2 the circumference of the BS apart and cut it a hair longer than the circumference (trial and error dictated this). I also drilled a hole near the end of the copper strip and cut it off for the ring on the iron. I then filed one edge of the little tab to fit into the holes on the strip. The "iron hoop" has not yet been shaped to round yet. After shaping the hoop to roughly round, making sure the ends mate well, I applied silver solder paste in the holes, inserted the tabs, applied solder to the butted ends of the hoop, applied heat with the butane torch and hoped the pieces stayed put with the gust from the torch. Once I was satisfied the technique worked, I repeated the process for the second iron. The one on the left (horizontal) is for the BS shrouds and the right (vertical) is for the stay and bobstay. A little stretching / rounding over a home-made mandrel and inserted over the end of the bowsprit. The BS has not been cut to length yet but it ends close to the hoop on the right. I'll pickle and blacken them next time I do blackening. Maury
  2. ...Searcher, In the Chesapeake Bay, they had both off-center and through-keel centerboards well into the mid 1800's. The Chapelle plans show a centerboard 16' long and 5.' high. I doubt it was lowered more than the full width (5' + / -) or as you say That would have given plenty of leeway resistance, and would keep the top edge of the centerboard contained within the trunk. for maximum strength. From the pivot point, that would mean an angle of rotation of about 15 degrees. When measured from the chain connection at the top of the CB to the slot at the deck, the variation in the angle of the chain is only about 6 degrees. A shorter and wider CB would alter these angles. There is no winch arrangement shown on the profile, so for C. Chase, the alternative is a Burton Pendant attached to the main mast. Thanks for your interest and your comments. Maury
  3. I really like the tool rack shown in the video. My only suggestion is the entire rack could be tilted (forward) maybe 15 - 20 degrees. It would make it easier to lift-out and replace the tools. 😀Maury
  4. Bowsprit: The bowsprit is 31' - 10" long and 20' is outboard of the knightheads. Bowsprits of the era were tapered 50% from the gammon iron out to the the end of the pole. The bottom of the pole was not tapered. Tapering is pretty straight forward marking a line of taper from full size (12") to 6" on three sides (all of the vertical taper occurs on the top). The circular sander was use to achieve an even taper. The spar is square out to near the billet, then 8-sided for about 4', then 16-sided and eventually round. Following is a picture on the jig used to cut the square to 8-sides. The top is kept flat. the jack stays? were put in place and need some cleaning up. Really tough to hold them in place while glue dries. Maury
  5. Frank, Is it true fiddle blocks are stronger than a double block since the strain is placed on two pins rather than one? Maury
  6. Not much work done with the holidays coming up. I worked on the rocker arm / brakes / purchase rod and purchase for the windlass. Soldering some of the smallest pieces was a challenge...particularly the little tubes at the end of the brakes. Getting all the pieces lined up with the gears on the windlass will be a challenge. It is set on a piece of scrap about the size of the pawl bitt. Maury
  7. I use cardboard tubes or 1 1/4" PVC pipe of assorted heights, glued to a flat base. Vertical storage takes up much less space on my limited work bench. Cost = $0. Maury
  8. Toni, I think the clinker planked boat is a great idea. Few of us have done one and this will be a tremendous opportunity for us to learn some different techniques. You've got a great set of plans, even if some modifications might be necessary. No pressure to match your project to the model since there are questions of provence. She's a lovely boat. Looking forward to the saga. Maury
  9. To change the blade: UNPLUG the saw. unscrew and remove the insert. Tip the saw to the left. Use a wrench to loosen the nut on the blade. Hand twist off the nut. remove the large ring. If necessary, remove the arbor ring (depends on the hole in the blade). Remove blade. reverse process to install the new blade. Maury
  10. From the plans there is decorative scroll on the stem piece but no trail board. Two cheeks curving up to the billet at the end of the stem, and a rail above the noble wood going out to the top of the stem with a light intermediate rail below that. Between the plan and the illustrations of other boats in American Fishing Schooners... by Chapelle, I've got it pretty close. Back to the cheeks. These are the most complex pieces I've ever cut/sanded/carved/sanded. Multiple angles and curves. I started with an over-sized block with the angle between the hull planking and stem cut. Next came beveling the after portion to align with the slope of the hull vis a vis the vertical line of the stem. Everything past that was trial and error on the fit. The notch on the left one is for the gammon iron holding the bowsprit to the stem post. The varying thickness of the lower cheek must be an issue with the lens. Doesn't look that way to the eye. Maury
  11. The covering boards need something between the main and quarter deck. A simple hanse will solve the problem. Maury
  12. Just below the noble wood is the upper cheek (temporarily tacked in place). There are two and no apparent trail board between the two. It is a complicated piece because of the multiple angles. Looking at the photo, I think the forward part needs some more thinning. Very hard to hold and sand. Maury
  13. If the model has value to you, spend the money on "museum glass" for the case. Not cheap, but a significant amount of UV protection. Maury
  14. The ships wheel is built and painted. Minor touchup still needed. I've thinnned the monkey rail a bit and added the anchor catheads. Maury
  15. Mike, Do your self a big favor and start with something fairly simple. You'll pick up lots of skills pretty quickly and then you can move up. Look at Syren's longboat or barges. MANY years ago, I started with a Clipper ship kit from Model Shipways and it's still only partially completed.
  16. While at the NRG Conference, I met Andy Small, one of the two vendors present. He makes wonderful laser-cut accessories, mostly for the model train crowd. One being a "Fish Cart or Hand Cart" and some boxes that I can display next to the boat. Since he makes great wheels, I asked him if he could cut a "ship's wheel" and he agreed to try. Below is the resulting kit (two wheels shown). The pieces are sandwiched; dark outer rims and handles with the light colored spokes in the middle to make a really good scale wheel. I've assembled one as a test. Since the ship had a metal wheel with wooden handles, I need to wait for some good paint to arrive. In the meantime, he is happy to sell these kits (one wheel) for $5 plus $5 shipping and handling. Contact him at: sales@traintroll.com www.traintroll.com 1-401-480-5381 Maury
  17. The rails are installed and nailed. The alignment of the pins in the monkey rail went more smoothly than expected. The fancy end of the rail (someone will tell me the term for that piece, I'm sure) is carved from a piece of 1/4" x 3/8" box. Inside of curve cut while part of the longer piece, then cut off and finished. Still some more adjustments to be made, thinning them down a bit. Maury
  18. Got it. I mistakenly thought it was being made with Alaskan Yellow Cedar (AYC). Same issue I imagine because it's soft like Bass. Maur
  19. Nice result Toni. Back to the question about 1500 grit sandpaper. Why do you think it necessary to go beyond 320? Maury
  20. Toni, I've never seen anyone sand unfinished wood finer than 320. Do you think the AYC needs such treatment? Maury
  21. Test fit of stanchions between main rail and monkey rail. The main rail is marked, then monkey rail is taped to it and both are drilled out simultaneously. To use Druxey's term; a bit fiddy getting them all in place. (not sure it's the proper usage of the term). Maury

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