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HSM

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Everything posted by HSM

  1. I bought this one a few months ago with the intention of pushing it under my work table and pulling it out when I work on an awkward area like high rigging or whatever. For the $200CAD that it costs (tabletop is extra) it is very well engineered and high-quality. I have since moved my chair out of the workshop because everything I do I can now do standing up. I can set the table height to wherever I want it to be comfortable and go to work. I have not gotten rid of the chair yet but I could see doing so in the future. If you spend lots of time in the shop these things are great!
  2. It is always fun to experiment, but I have been there and done that and I don't do it anymore. I had the Micromark PE kit and used it for several projects. It works, but is very time-consuming and finicky. About 75% of my attempts were unusable for one reason or another but with lots of work and practice I did use it to make decent parts for maybe 4-6 projects before I gave up. Now I send .DXF files to https://ppdltd.com/ and a week later receive perfectly formed parts. Cheers and good luck, however you decide to make your parts!
  3. Looks like lots of fun! I live directly in the middle of North America so not much cruise activity for me unless I first fly to a port. I am intrigued by this though, and maybe some day will try it out. If you wouldn't mind I would like to see your photos and stories...
  4. You have lots of responses, but I am wondering why stretching does not work... As suggested by xken, put it between 2 pliers, or a vice and pliers and pull on it until you feel it stretch a bit. This is called the yield-point. If you release it carefully it will be perfectly straight. I much prefer this method to any of the others, but do whatever works for you.
  5. I bought an 8050 (thanks again for the recommendation John!) and love it. I haven't used my old flex-shaft dremel in months. The battery seems to have sufficient run time, at least for me. I have never had it go flat or slow down during a job and I use it daily. The fact that it doesn't remember your last set speed is the most significant drawback to this tool. It can be quite annoying when you are doing lots of slow speed work and have to continually be pushing buttons. I put a jacobs chuck on it and it blocks the lights in such a way that there is light everywhere EXCEPT where the blade meets the work! On the possibility of the battery getting weak over time, I have had mine for 6 months and if it were to die right now I would spend the money to buy another one. I like it that much. It is not perfect, but is well worth the money for the cordless convenience. I don't think you would regret buying an 8050.
  6. The Bluenose is a perfect subject to use white decal paper on because the hull is black. I have made 2 MS Bluenoses and drew the name and scrollwork in Turbocad, with the yellow and black printed, leaving the letters white. It worked great and the decal was all but invisible.
  7. #11 Exacto blade and handle A Dremel 8050 as suggested by John Allen in a previous post A small disk/belt sander Digital caliper
  8. Thanks for the suggestion John! I have had 15 great years out of my corded Dremel, and wasn't even thinking of replacing it until I read your review, and then other reviews online. I have been leery of battery operated tools in the past, but for smaller jobs (probably 80% of them) this will be great! I will keep my old, powerful corded Dremel and I'm sure the two will complement each other well. Will stop at Home Depot on my way home and pick one up :-)
  9. The plates stick like white on rice, but they do adhere better to a glossy surface than they do to a flat one. They are also very thin so they don't hide imperfections in the hull surface.
  10. Military modellers have literally THOUSANDS of figures available at a scale of 1:35 and I am sure you will be able to find figures posed and dressed exactly as you like. I just ordered figure sets from HobbyInc for figures I required for a diorama to copy a famous photograph of a meeting between King Aziz of Egypt, FDR, Admiral Nimits and an interpreter that took place on the cruiser Quincy. In my case I had to find clothing and poses that matched the photograph and was able to match each figure pretty accurately. The military figure kits come with the body parts all separated so you can mix and match if you don't like the arm position of this figure you can take one from another figure.
  11. I use this Micro-Mark X-Y table that I can attach to my drill-press when I need it. Works great for small jobs. https://www.micromark.com/MicroLux-X-Y-Table-Attachment
  12. I generally put the line through the pin-hole, then around and through again, then I put the pin in the hole to hold it in place. Once I have adjusted all (or most) of the rigging I glue down all of the pins and clip off the excess line. I then add rope coils of appropriate sized line that I make off of the model. You are right... If they yard is down then you would have less of a coil than you would if the yard is hoisted and there would be lots of line to coil.
  13. Seen on a camping trip through South Dakota.
  14. I am working on the Euromodel Friedrich WIlhelm zu Pferde (strange... spellchecker doesn't like that name!) and am wondering about the shroud run on the mizzen mast. The deadeyes for the fore and main mast have wood spacers (channels) that hold them away from the hull and there is room for the rigged shrouds to clear the bulwarks. The deadeyes on the mizzen mast are attached without the spacer to hold them away from the hull, and there appears to be no way to get the shrouds to clear the bulwarks. The shrouds are forced to bend around the hull and I am certain that would never happen in real life. The shrouds would chafe badly and the railing on the poopdeck would be excessively stressed. My model will be built admiralty style without masts or rigging so I will likely install the deadeyes as shown on the plans, but what am I missing here? Attached are some photos that show the area:
  15. I think all belaying pins are removable. If the lines need to be freed quickly a sailor can just pull the pin out and let out the line. If it were me I would end up with a tangled mess and swinging from my ankle from the yardarm but I'm sure a sailor would be able to keep it under control quite well.
  16. Someone mentioned moving the lift blocks from the main mast to the topmast so they are more forward. I have done similar even if the plans show the blocks on the aft section of the masthead. Plans are a good starting point, but if there is a more practical and functional way to do it I'm sure the sailors of the day would have made a similar modification in real-life.
  17. I use copper tape at work for electronics and at home for ship building. Stained glass suppliers are your best bet. If you have a local shop I would bet they have 1/8", but be aware they come with different colors of adhesive on the back. I think it comes in black, silver and clear. You want clear for hull plating.
  18. Looks great! Now get in there and make it messy!
  19. I have to agree with ccoyl. They are both awful, but the second one slightly less awful than the first. It comes down to you get what you pay for, and $300.00 doesn't buy much. The Bluejacket USS Constitution KIT alone is $650.00. My guess is those models might be OK for a high shelf along the ceiling in a cheap seafood restaurant, but for a centerpiece of a room it wouldn't be very satisfying.
  20. I have always used CA to secure rigging knots. It darkens light-colored lines so I have an anti-fray product for fabric that I use on light-colored lines, but I would prefer to use the CA. The first ship I built was in 1999 and I had it out of its case a few weeks ago to steal the pedestals for another project. I specifically checked the knots and the lines seemed as strong as when I first made it. This is just my experience, but everyone may do what suits them.
  21. I've been building wood ship models for decades, and if I were to only have one power tool it would be a dremel like the one you have. With that and a few hand tools you can build most kits on the market to a decent standard. I'd say start building and then buy as you observe a need for more tools.
  22. "1. You can use it to collect small parts as they are cut off - make a collection tube that fits the hose, and then place a piece of hardware cloth or window screen at the juncture of the hose and tube. Place the tube opening near the saw blade The piece will be sucked into the pipe and trapped against the screen." This is a great idea Bob, I will try this! When cutting small parts with my preac they fly everywhere.
  23. Brilliant idea! Anything that makes tying ratlines easier or more accurate is always welcome!
  24. A few things that I have in my workshop that I like: I have several switches all next to each other that are run to plugs on the workbench. One powers the mini table saw, one the drill-press, one the disk sander and the other the vacuum. I can turn on and off the vacuum and any of the other 3 tools with one hand. Wire one plug above the workbench to the lightswitch, and color that plug red. Use that plug for a soldering iron or plank bender, so even if you forget to turn it off, it goes off when you leave the shop and turn off the light. Have an area for painting and staining. Hang a shower curtain(s) as best you can to section off that area and have an exhaust fan sucking from that area. Keeps the fumes out of the house very well! Lots of light, with one movable so you can focus it on your workspace. Have a deep laundry sink for cleanup. In cabinets, drawers are better than doors/shelves, and more small drawers are better than fewer large drawers. Most of the parts and tools we use are small so large drawers get cluttered fast. Opposite to the previous item, thin drawers with a large footprint (think map drawers... maybe 10cm tall...) are great for storing different cuts of wood, plans, metal, etc... I have a foot-switch that I plug my dremel into. The switch on the dremel is always on, but the tool only runs when I step on the switch. A drying-rack made out of wire shelving suspended below a furnace duct. That's all I can think of right now, but there may be more...

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