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vossiewulf

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  1. Thanks Pat, makes sense now. I haven't seen real detail about how anchors were released and stowed, what I've found in Seamanship discusses ship movements and actions of the ship, but not the details of what happened with the anchor. I am thinking that the cat hook would have to be removed from it, and then the served rope was released at the same time as any other lashings that held the anchor in place. Is that correct?
  2. Thanks again Gregory. However, like you, I have no idea how that works Thanks Jud, interesting to know.
  3. I thought I had read that section pretty closely but obviously not closely enough. Thanks, that makes logical sense now, if it was earlier in the build I would have added a cleat like that.
  4. Yeah, that's what I did at first too, as it's logical. I'm just saying I've actually gotten better results by dabbing it on by q tip, doesn't make any sense but it has consistently done better than dipping.
  5. Had I been slightly more experienced and seen this problem earlier, that is what I would have done: add a bar like that to each side of the windlass and then hung the coils of one cable from the arbor "clutch". Thanks for that idea. I forgot to ask before, what pray tell is a cat quick release toggle? I actually have been wondering how in fact the cat hook was unhooked from the anchor.
  6. Looks fine Jo, but also at this stage if you don't like it, cut a strip of wood and glue it to the bulkhead edge and/or add more balsa and resand it. None of this will be seen, so you can freely revise as you wish until you're happy. People regularly overshoot a bit and use filler or more wood to build back up before finalizing. BTW you've done very well to get past the first stages that many people without much experience making things find very intimidating. You've kept the courage up and moved forward and now your little Il Leudo looks exactly like 100 other boats being built on this site right now, so call those days seized. Make sure you keep that faith when you first start planking
  7. I have said that to myself about your build Sigh. Now I have to figure out how to make a tiny brain knot or whatever that's called at the end of the fluke Thanks, I think...
  8. Thanks Gregory! I guess I'm back to turns on the windlass on both sides, and probably hanging the port one from the cathead.
  9. That's a little simplified, isn't it Mark? As I recall the progression went from full lateen mizzen course, to keeping the lateen boom but stopping the sail at the mast as it would be here, and then the final evolution was straightforward fore-and-aft gaff sails with a boom on the bottom and a gaff up top. At least that's what I recall reading. Can't remember the dates between lateen mizzen and shortened lateen mizzen, maybe 1690-1710 or so? And the final step was fairly late, after 1800 I think.
  10. Thanks @popeye the sailor I posted one pic in the thread on how to rig these anchors, but I should catch up progress here. I've made all the rigging for both anchors, and have rigged one but the other is in limbo while the experts determine if a cutter could operate two anchors at once, and if so, how. Since you can't engage or disengage the hawsers from the windlass without pulling all the cable up on deck and detaching it from the bitts, either they went through extreme anguish trying to operate two anchors, or you could loosen one set of wrappings selectively, and work on one anchor without affecting the other. There is a surprising (to me) amount of discussion on this point, considering the commonness of cutter models built and the consistency of their windlass/anchor arrangements. If I'm allowed to wrap both hawsers on the windlass, I will hang the port anchor from the cathead. If not, I will stow it with no hawser. As expected, starting with those 2mm blocks means that working with even a 1/8" block is all giggles and rainbows. The catfall blocks with their hooks, which once again proved the axiom that no matter how many gauges of wire you have, you will never have the right size. These involved a fair amount of hand filing as what was needed fell between the two closest gauge sizes I have. Anchor ready to be installed with hawser, catfall block, and buoy rope. I went with an anchor bend as the line was too thick to do the fisherman's bend recommended for small anchors, and an anchor clinch was only used on large ship anchors. I had to flip her over to drill the holes for the catfall eyes in the underside of the catheads, which of course I didn't know I needed until now. While I was at it, I finished drilling holes for CF rod in the keel that will go in the pedestals. And we get a probably last clear view of the planking. Starboard anchor installed, but not finished. I need to put a small cleat on the top of each cathead where it sits on the rail for the catfall line. Also, if anyone is reading in enough detail, how does one finish a line belayed to a timberhead? I'm not sure what the line is called (the fully served one), but usually it goes from a belaying point on one side of the cathead to another on the other side, but since I didn't have two belaying points I went from the timberhead through the anchor and back to the same timberhead. So does the end of the line just stick out in space? Or did they go under other lines a few more times to completely hide it? Another view, I seized a loop in one end of the fully-served line and that went over the timberhead first. How I lashed the other end to a timberhead, and a good look at the buoy rope. In retrospect (AGAIN), I should have gone from timberhead to the shank of the anchor instead of the fluke. The way I have it, it would move. OTOH, if I went across the shank the lashings would be bearing on the buoy line, I don't know if that was considered a problem or not. And the controversial windlass, with the starboard anchor hawser having turns around it. As noted, just waiting for final decision before mounting the other anchor. After I do that, I HAVE to stop doing other things and mount the rudder before the whole mess becomes too fragile.
  11. Everything I see is very nice, very clean work Jean-Paul. No need for help here, just sit back and watch a pretty ship being made
  12. Isn't this another kit that was designed by Chuck Passaro? You're right that you solved the problem well and are moving on, but out of curiosity's sake and future needs, you might could drop him a PM and see if he has any input on bending the wood that MSW is including in the kits these days. You're right, woods have different fundamental bending processes and you could do everything right and still have problems with certain woods. The beauty of the steam cleaners is that you just tell the admiral you're buying an excellent tool for cleaning bathrooms and kitchens to total sterility, and she approves and awards you a medal of bravery
  13. The F-8's other claim to fame, that Slog has already shown, is that it's the only production aircraft that had a variable incidence wing. It was an odd feature in that it was fairly Russian in its sledgehammer approach to solving the competing needs of supersonic wings vs. wings that would allow a reasonably slow approach to the carrier- the hell with that complex swing-wing idea, we'll just tilt the whole damned wing! Problem solved! Pass the vodka comrade! Also, anyone with a vague interest should watch the below, it's one of the best Dogfights episodes and its title is The Last Gunfighter

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