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vossiewulf

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  1. Lots of knives here from reasonably good to extremely good. Western and Japanese knives. If you want to try western knives, try Pfeil and Two Cherries and they also carry Ron Hock's blades. And any of the Japanese marking/woodworking knives here are going to be Rc63 or so and therefore sharpenable to a very good edge. You just regrind them to whatever you want and make a handle. And if you want an insanely good edge, buy really good Japanese marking knives, they'll be pushing Rc64-65, but edge fragility is an issue.
  2. Jo, looks pretty good to me. However I would even up the bottom of the blocks/bulkheads. Either you need to add material between frames 1 and 2 or remove material between frames 2 and 3, or both. This is going to establish where your planks are coming into the stem and not too far from now, you probably have to cut a rabbet (US) or a rebate (UK) along this line so that the planks will fit correctly, and you want the substrate (fillers and frames) to flow smoothly into the rabbet. Below is me smoothing out the rabbet on the bows of my Lady Nelson, easier to understand by seeing it.
  3. Thanks @el cid, @mtaylor, and @Roger Pellett. The question remains though, what do I do on the port side? Run a hawser to the port anchor and run it around the windlass barrel, assuming they could loosen one or the other as necessary? Or do I leave the hawser off entirely?
  4. Don't hold your breath waiting to be impressed by the sharpness of Flexcut, their steel is just average. I bought one of their knives, it ended up being used to open boxes that arrive at my door.
  5. Thanks to @el cid, @allanyed, @Roger Pellett, and @popeye2sea. Here is my problem: I am trying to rig anchors on my cutter complete with anchor buoys. But as you see, once a hawser is bent to an anchor, there is no way to either engage or disengage it from the windlass- that has to happen before the hawser becomes attached to the anchor. But at the same time, they can't raise an anchor unless it's engaged on the windlass. So I am thinking it simply wasn't possible for a cutter with this type of windlass to drop and recover two anchors, and in terms of rigging I am inclined to leave the hawser entirely off the port bowyer because I can't see any way for both hawsers and anchors to be in action at the same time.
  6. Hope anchor issues go here and not in the rigging section. Anyway, I am confused as to how one operated two anchors from one windlass, was not the normal anchoring process to drop one anchor, drift, drop another and then winch yourself back to midway between the two? Or did small vessels like cutters only use one anchor? I can't see how you could have both hawsers wrapped around the windlass and still be able to operate on one at a time, but if you don't pass the hawser around the windlass before dropping an anchor, I have no idea how you're supposed to drop said anchor safely, much less how you're going to get the hawser around the windlass to be able to raise that anchor post facto.
  7. It looks fine Jolene, that's what it should look like, nice job. Only thing is if you're going to add more balsa blocks, you want to do that all at once because as you see, when you sand down the balsa you're sanding down and beveling the frames also. You really want to do that process all at once to end up with a fully smooth result, as each frame needs to be sanded and beveled into something exactly halfway between the frame in front and the frame in back.
  8. That's the only solution if we don't have dimensions wrong somewhere- they'd have had to shorten the breeching ropes until the carriage couldn't really move at all, and hope the bulwarks could take it. And you'd have to work the guns outboard, probably over top of the rail rather than trying to do it through the small ports.
  9. Yes, I have the advantage of doing an imaginary ship that has some very odd features for a cutter (like the stern) so I can pretty much do whatever I want and get away with it. I changed the way the main boom will be rigged, replaced the windlass and boomsprit mount to something that looks like Trial, pretty much making it up as I go along. I like that in one respect but certainly will be looking to do specific ships in the future. And yes, no matter what you learn there are simply now more questions.
  10. I am confused also about cutter bow ports, every model I've seen has not enough room for the guns one way or another, Lady Nelson is even worse than Chuck's Cheerful. I totally gave up on the idea of placing guns at the bow as they were much too cramped. Even looking at the contemporary models I see the same problems. Trial for example, although not really built for fighting, has absurdly cramped forward ports, I don't think you could even fit in a carriage. The others in the gallery aren't much better, and none are displayed with guns in the forward ports. So it seems like they just really liked having holes in the bow that didn't help them do anything and which probably shipped lots of water.
  11. They used what was called orthochromatic film at the time, and it does odd things with colors. For example, yellow will appear very dark, and there are photos of planes out there that look like they have black noses when we know they were painted bright yellow. So it's basically impossible to get colors from photos. Also, the paints they used (as well as the German printed lozenge fabric) faded quickly when exposed to weather, so planes recently vs. not recently painted could look very different. My suggestion is to research what is the current best guess for various colors, but don't stress about it too much, you'll never get it exactly right unless you had a color photo and then you could match a plane's appearance only on that day.
  12. Approach carefully, generally rasps are very rough on wood, leaving deep scratches. Don't make them deeper than you intend to sand. Not sure why it is necessary, any plane, chisel, gouge, or knife should be able to trim down balsa easily if they are sharp. But a rasp will indeed remove wood quickly.
  13. I use tack cloths from Liberon, no wax or silicone and tacky while leaving no residue. Not that a damp cloth won't work, I just prefer not to get any water on wood once I have started a finish. OTOH we should probably just leave Keith alone to finish his finish before digressing on another discussion of finishing techniques
  14. Jolene, you'll find it easier if you get the balsa to the right thickness to fit between two bulkheads, and then mark each side by tracing the bulkhead in front and in back on each side of the balsa piece. You can then use a scroll saw or any number of other tools to shape it down very close to what is needed while off the model. Then when you glue them in, there's just a bit of sanding to do. Also, if you can, you try to orient the grain of the filler blocks lengthwise to the ship, that makes shaping the them much easier.

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