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vossiewulf

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  1. So as you see it looks like I have to give up the becket and the eye on the line and just seize the line directly to the single block, but it will work. It's distressing that I have to make significant compromises on the accuracy of the rigging; unlike with airplanes where I know based on scale what I can and can't do, I really don't know what you can get away with at what scales in ships. It's also distressing as that means you can't do really good rigging below 1/48, and 1/48 is monstrously big models. Well at least you can't do really good rigging without making yourself a range of specialized super-miniature tools, which I may have to do. Even so, with the nice blocks and line from @Chuck and the right size fly line, the tackles will still look nice and of course only a tiny minority of the people who will look at it will have any idea that anything is missing. It was originally @src's suggestion to eliminate the eyes and beckets but @BANYAN twisted my arm into giving it a try. You're both right, you have to be an eagle-eyed ship modeler to see that things have been simplified and the deck will look much better with the train tackles in place, thanks
  2. That's a wonderful detail that most wouldn't think of. It's one of those things that makes a model really come alive.
  3. Keith, any way you can be talked into leaving that hull natural? Besides the beauty, I'm thinking of your safety - I know a few bars where wood workers hang out where if someone says they intend to paint 100 year old real mahogany, they're going to be lucky to make it out with only tarring and feathering
  4. Since you can't have a really big ship in your house, you should follow Gaetan Bordeleau's build of a 1/24 scale 74 gun ship per Jean Bourdriot's plans. And we look forward to you starting your own build log.
  5. It helps to have the keel up off the building board a few inches, as part of the next task is putting in the bulkheads and the bottom alignment of the bulkheads relative to the keel is one of the key things to get right. If the keel is up, it's a bit easier to see that alignment. But I'm not sure it's worth hurting your wrist to screw them all back out and back in a new position.
  6. If those are sails, they are loose footed and wouldn't cover half the distance between the gaffs in question and the gaffs below. So I don't think they are sails, they are large flags/pennants, this is clearly some kind of special display since they have pennants going from the fore royal and main royal all the way down to the bulwarks.
  7. Haven't had much time to work on this, spent most of yesterday on a conference call because Barclay's screwed up a maintenance release and started failing all their transactions, lots of impact to our merchant base. I have three pics. One is done puddening, which is very probably the most ridiculest sailing jargon word I've come across. It took me several tries with various types of normal and fly-tying thread before I got something usable. The anchors are done, just need to rig them to the ship. Pat, as you see I've tried your suggestion on the blocks, I think it may work I will make the single-block version tomorrow and see if we have enough room now for a proper train tackle. And I also made V2 of my rigging posts, now with 100% more cleats.
  8. Yes, if you use a penetrating stain. Dyes sit mostly on the surface and are less prone to problems of uneven absorption. Wipe On Poly is a satin finish. You can get some matte polyurethanes, but I don't think they look very good, the way they do matte creates considerable obscuration of what's underneath- short version is they have poor clarity in my opinion. I haven't found good matte clear coats outside of real nitrocellulose lacquer. In my case I ended up using Tamiya flat lacquer, I decanted it from the spray cans and used my airbrush. It can be used straight from the can, but spray cans don't do light coats well, it tends to be heavy. Another good choice for small quantities is Testor's Dullcote lacquer, that comes in bottles of a few ounces. It's best sprayed with an airbrush, but it can be applied by brush. For larger supplies, I'd recommend Mohawk. Their primary market is musical instruments, they make extremely good lacquer finishes.
  9. Except for the tongue and groove planking, the finger joints on the ends of planks, the fiberglass, and the massive amounts of green bondo
  10. If you prefer not spraying, many people use Wipe On Poly by Minwax. The other thing about oil finishes is they DON'T seal the wood- they offer the least surface protection and unless applied in many coats, almost no slowing of moisture exchange and therefore it offers little mitigation of low/high humidity cycles- if you want your model to last, it's best to apply a real film finish. You can always stain first to get the color that you want, then finish with a clear topcoat. If you don't like pigment stains, look at alcohol-soluble aniline dyes.
  11. Masking tape has limited flexibility and can't really handle what you were trying to do there. I use 3M Vinyl Tape for masking curves, it's extremely flexible. And then I use cheaper masking tape to fill in the masked areas.
  12. Don't forget bandaids and hydrogen peroxide, we all make blood donations to our models at some point during construction With all the help you have here Jo, you won't even have to look at the plans, you just have to post a pic of the parts and ask "what next"?
  13. I'm a beginning ship modeler and even I know that one of the top five rules of kit work is throw away all the kit-supplied line or use it to make cat toys and replace it with Syren.

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