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themadchemist

Banned for supporting piracy
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  1. ....amazed as always.... the figures give a nice idea of her scale.... as does your finger.
  2. Excellent camera work. how do you get those at gun deck level shots? Amazing as always. Thanks for sharing.
  3. those small gratings can be a real test of ones patience. Nice job, they look great. As much fun as planking is, fitting them out is nearly as much fun.
  4. The last time I had to use boiling water was with bending the ebony wales on the longboat, of course I didn't have to worry about glue softening. It always amazes me what you can get wood to do with water and heat. Looking good Jesse.
  5. I don't know if the #10 blades come in differing sizes as I have a in house supplier , Its nice having a wife working in the OR.... but the one I used was a small blade. I found the rounded tip made a bit wider pseudo-rabbet that was wider then using an #11 blade. I 2nd planked with 0.5mm cherry and basically scraped and fitted the size of the pseudo-rabbet with a scrap piece of planking. Having the blunt side riding the keel, helps keeps it straight and doesn't mare the keel. The ones she brings from the OR have a widen back for bracing the blade, which makes a nice frictionless edge, I don't
  6. She's looking good Brian. Typically the plank is narrower at points where it goes through a maximum in curvature. That wrap under the transom is a tricky area, what you've done looks good, it will be interesting to see as it progresses around to the stern post. The use of stealers may be a good way to fill in that area. You could incorporate a half stealer and full stealer, just for the practice of it. I like the way you use the tape line as a pseudo-batten, that's a great idea. However you plank her, side to side symmetry for me is one of the more important aspects, especially at the ste
  7. Thank you for the hand drawn illustration Nils. I figured it was accomplished with beveling of some kind. If it was just sanded flush one would tend to sand through the overlaying plank and show the space (gap) beneath. Especially on such thin stock. The geralds, to my understanding are to get the planks to overlay and interlock with the opposing gerald or rabbet of the underlying and overlying planks. Building such a small feature at that scale would be near impossible but your technique simulates it very nicely. The plank narrowing adds much further detail. I've watched the videos of th
  8. Relooking at your work, (I love relooking at good work and thinking my way through your process) I'm now beginning to question how you achieved that correct look. Did you bevel or “brow” the Lands (lap) and were gerald's cut adjacent to stem or was this achieved with beveling alone or just sanding them back even? Your plank widths, wide mid-ship and narrowing at the stem and transom, with narrowing happening at maximum curvature points makes your little walnut shell quite real looking, to the form in which I understand them to be build. I wondered if one could make a razor blade scrappe
  9. Nils, you have done a beautiful job simulating the geralds at the stem. The flow from clinker to the smooth lay of the geralds as the clinker transitions into the stem and transom is nearly as difficult a part to simulate at that size as the correct overlapping of the clinkered part of the plank. At least I would assume so.... Beautiful work, and fast also. Your work only makes me want to tackle a clinker build vessel all the more.
  10. I'm not knocking the kit supplied anything, Alistair. I'm just saying it is nice to upgrade If one wishes. One could say that filing the flashing seams on the white metal castings and adding photo-etched insignia and flint locks could be just as big an upgrade as new guns. Or one could simply paint the guns as they are, the originals probably has cast flashing and a much rougher finish then we simulate. Al I was saying is that its nice for a builder to have options and MSW teaches many differing ways to upgrade a kit, from modification to kit pieces, to completely replacing them. The whit
  11. I agree, I wouldn't touch the original....and I'm thinking down the road after several other builds... then revisiting the first for a side by side. My DSotM wandered far from a pilot and at some point I'd like to rebuild a historic pilot, possibly even POF. You also have that Hannah to consider....
  12. What? No pictures in the AVS to show how they fit? Painting teaches patience, slowly.... The nice thing with the AVS is that it gives a small primer on rigging guns. With only 8, it gives you practice without rigging huge numbers. I've yet to tackle that task and see it as a huge challenge. The San Francisco at 1:90 has me worried, and it is the odd 2 wheeled carriages supposedly. The upgrades look great, it's always nice to go beyond the kit and make your build personalized. Chucks ropes and blocks... well all I can say is I can't imagine using AL rope or blocks after seeing and
  13. To me it doesn't look strange, with just the stay sails she kind of reminds me of the Xebec rigged with her Lateen Sails, if one doesn't focus on the tall Masts. ... But then I love fore and aft rigs and Lateen setups. To me I couldn't tell you if they are wrong, but I can say they look GOOD. Your Pegasus just keeps expanding and becoming more detailed. With the more distant pictures, one almost forgets that she's cut away for internal viewing. The layers of detail, that draws one in and as you get closer more detail appears, with the added cut away makes your Pegasus SO unique. It is the
  14. I used a sealing iron on the thin stuff and it shaped so well that the glue was about all the clamping needed. I would narrow it, then glue it into the stem rabbet I'd scrapped in between the stem/keel and the hull, This help simulate that interface. I'd glue about a 1/4" to a 1/2" down. Once it was dry, I'd wet it with a brush and shape it with the sealing iron, so that it lay against the adjacent plank. The heat really done a number on that thin stuff and you can make it lay so tight that you have to pry it off to apply the glue.
  15. Congrats on the promotion. don't you just hate all that studying She's coming along really well. I like that steel rule/rubber band rap job to get the pull-down force on the stem end while shaping. Having those lower decks comes in handy. I couldn't have done that on the older kit. Nice innovation. I wish more people showed the shaping and clamping process, as for me it was always a fun and interesting challenge to figure out just how to restrain the plank while drying... and the method changes as you work around the curvature of the hull. I used some pretty crazy methods. The pins are a
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