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barkeater

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About barkeater

  • Birthday February 18

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    barkeater@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Howell, NJ
  • Interests
    I enjoy fly fishing and fly tying, bow hunting and reading historical fiction and historical non-fiction usually concerning the 1700's

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  1. Stay away from CA. Always use the PVA except when gluing metal to wood. It seeps into the wood and makes a stain very hard to sand out. Use PVA {wood glue}. If you have gaps mix PVA with some sawdust of the wood you are planking with and use as a wood putty. If you just want to add strength just wipe on PVA with your finger tip, clean off any excess and sand.
  2. If your like me and need there to be canons on board might I suggest something like HMS Sherbourne cutter by Caldercraft. It's 1/64 scale and the are plenty of build logs on it. In addition to the excuses above, you can tell your wife that you wanted to start with a small ship before you did a larger. We modelers are good at excuses. You will be building for months if not more so you want to build something you like.
  3. I would pull them. If you ran a single continuous plank the entire run of the hull then you can just cut out the bad section. If it is a double planked model and this is the first planking you might be able to get away with gluing and sanding but you have to ask yourself, why did they snap and are more going to snap? Did you fare your bulkheads so that the planks meet the bulkheads over their entire ends? If not this could be your culprit. Also did you add some scrap wood at the bow to help attachment to the keel? What kind of plank bender did you use? I use an electric steam bender and if I'm going to snap one, it happens when I'm bending and not overnight. I would strongly recommend steam bending if you are not doing it. There are some "plank benders" out there that don't do the job. Having said this, welcome to the wonderful world of ship building. We all have problems and we all learn from solving them.
  4. Thanks very much for the kind comment but I have to clarify that the variation in thickness I was referring to was meant for the sheets as the thickness of your sheet becomes the width of your plank after ripping. I acquired some ebony sheets a few years ago and ripped them to do the wale on my current build Unity. I put in three planking rows before I realized that the sheets varied in thickness from about 3.6mm to 2.5 mm. It was an "Oh crap" moment for me. The thickness of the sheet becomes the width of the plank so in spots I was now up to 3 mm off and nothing was uniform. It took a lot of extra work to even everything up as the wale was only 7 rows wide. Since then I have gotten some red heart from a different supplier which had variation but less severe. I realized this before hand and was actually able to use it to my advantage. It is just something you have to be aware of.
  5. As noted above, pre-cut wood strips 1mm or even .5 mm thick are available from multiple sources. Also ripping planks on a mini table saw to 1mm or less is not a problem with several types of wood including but not limited to walnut which is commonly used in planking. Good luck in your build. If you decide to rip planks from wood sheets make sure that the pieces you get have a uniform thickness. I have seen variation in thickness which can be a problem if you don't notice it and allow for the variation.
  6. Agree with all above. Simpler is better for your first build. If you, like me, need guns on the deck then a cutter would be a good choice. You get to do a bit of everything.
  7. I had the same problem with Badger 1777. I decide on trying dried driftwood. I found a piece which sort of branched and had the right contour to match the angle I needed and was stable in this position. There were two areas where it would be in contact with the model. I then cut a channel to match the keel in each of these two areas. When I was happy with it, I put a very small screw up through the driftwood and into keel. ( See Badger model folder in Scratch build gallery if interested although the solitary picture of it only partially shows the pedestal.)
  8. Thanks, pretty interesting. I never knew they did a post mortem (autopsy) exam on him. I do know they put him in a cask of brandy for preservation until they could reach England.
  9. Also try Modelers Central in Australia. They ship worldwide and cost is not bad. The lengths are 39 inches and quality is good.
  10. I'm not a fan of pin pushers or nailing unless it is the first planking of a double planked model. I clamp instead. Sometimes you have to get inventive depending on what you are doing. It helps to have a variety of clamps. You can clamp a piece of scrap wood to apply pressure. I also use have used multiple clamps with scrap wood or the butt ends of microfiles to jerry-rig clamping when a single clamp does not work. Nails can split the wood especially if you have to use a lot of torque to get the piece to lie flat. You also are left with a hole to deal with. If you treenail you can fill but you have to only nail where your treenail pattern would be (for me 2 holes at the butt and 1 hole about every four feet to scale). Alternatively you can use wood glue. Let it sit until it starts to thicken then place on your plank and use your fingers to clamp. Usually a count to 100 will do the trick. For tough angles such as the front or rear quarter of the hull where it is angling in you may have to hold for a count of 300 but the glue will take. I do not use ca as it stains and I do not paint my hulls.
  11. I double plank. Besides allowing you to even out any imperfections it also gives you more strength to the hull. While this may not be as important on a schooner, with models having bulwarks above the deck cannon ports, hawser holes or any other perforation in the hull it is a big benefit.
  12. I do one thing at a time. I scratch build and have to fabricate as I go along which means that some pieces have to wait until others are done in order to get the dimensions right. As an example, my current build is a two decker and I can't build the capstan until I have the exact height of the main/gun deck set. There are some things I could do such as carriages but one thing at a time works for me and helps to keep my clutter down.
  13. For the metal sheave, you can also use a round metal punch to cut out 2 pieces of brass or other metal plate. Then punch a hole in the center, blacken and place in your block. Not as elegant but it works if you don't have the power tools.

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