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Ulises Victoria

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Everything posted by Ulises Victoria

  1. I received my Spanish copy of The Art of Ship Modeling today. I was anxiously awaiting this book, and it looks like it'll be a great reading material. Unfortunately there are several issues that got me very disappointed, which however, I will not disclose here until I hear from Mr. H. Berti first.
  2. Sure!!! Here you can find this one, as well as many other books on the subject. Enjoy!!! (Wish I could buy ALL of them!!! ) (Google Chrome translates foreign languages pages.) http://www.editions-ancre.com/Search.aspx?L=FR
  3. I bough this book in French, when there were not yet any copies available in other languages. I later learnt that the book was also available in English, Spanish and other languages. Since I already had the French edition, I thought it an unnecessary expense to buy another copy. A few days ago I took the "What the Heck" attitude and ordered a copy in Spanish. It took 8 days to arrive at my Custom broker's warehouse, and I expect to have it in my hands early next week. If anyone would be interested in my French copy (in pristine mint condition) please PM me.
  4. My first wooden ship completed was a subscription one. The San Juan Bautista by deAgostini. So all I can say if you are interested go for it.
  5. Thanks for the link Michael. I saw this web page so long ago, I had completely forgotten about it.
  6. I downloaded the advanced version (obviously ) but pages 10 and 10R (sails) do not load. I get an error message. I re-downloaded a second time and same problem. I then loaded the beginners version hoping that the sails would be the same, but surprisingly, they are different. Anyone else with the same problem? Update. When double-clicking on them, there was another program trying to open my pdf.s Adobe does it right.
  7. Hello. This looks like a nice kit. Is it one of those that you buy in weekly installments? I would be very interested in getting this kit if available in the USA. How do you get it?
  8. Thank you all for your kind words... and .... HEY DENNIS!!!! Where were you? Arthur and I were asking ourselves where had you gone and getting a bit concerned about your whereabouts. I'm so glad to hear from you again. Please don't tell me you did stop building your ship because I did so with mine!
  9. I use this jig to make my pin coils. Just some nails in an angled piece of wood. When the coils are made, I spray them with hair spray and let dry. The plastic push pins allow for easy removal. Has worked very good for me.
  10. Hola!!! Me encantó tu revista. I didn't look at it extensively, but saved it to take a much closer look at it later. I saw many familiar names there. How often will it be published and how would we know when a new issue is available? Felicidades!!!
  11. Update March 21 2013 This update may not look as much, but rigging that spiderweb 12 rope thingy in the bowsprit was a Royal PITA. I had to do it 3 times and each time took 2-3 building sessions. (Some trimming still needed) Thanks for watching. As always, all comments are very welcome.
  12. Hello. Nice choice of ship!!! If it can be of any help, follow link in my signature.
  13. Meredith... yes... I am very happy with my machine also. I think my failure in making thicker ropes starting with thin threads was because I tried to make A BIG LOT of single stranded per spool rope, and I just got tired of it and didn't keep my attention into making perfect rope. I see that less is better . I will keep experimenting with this using smaller batches. In the meantime, I am very happy with my results using several strands of threads per spool.
  14. Update on the machine's performance. I spent several days making a very long 3 stranded rope with Gutterman quilting thread, to experiment with making a thick rope starting with very thin threads. Results were disappointing because I kept experimenting with speeds and got a very uneven first LH thin rope. Bottom line: If you want to make RH-LH-RH-LH etc ropes starting with thin threads... your first rope must be perfect. ​ Subsequent passes with a defective line will not hide the imperfections (as I thought they would) but will enhance them. So at least for me, the easiest and quickest method for making thicker ropes will be done by using 2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 threads per spool. Since I have tried this and actually made a thick LH cable using first 4 strands per spool and then using this to make a RH 36 strands cable, which came out very nicely, I think for now I will stick to this method.
  15. Hmmm... why touch up the CA with dullcote to get rid of the gloss? Just place a drop of Dullcote INSTEAD of using CA. It will hold your knot, will not leave a shiny or white spot, and will not make your line brittle, as CA does.
  16. What I like best is using flat (matte) Testors dullcote lacquer. A mini-drop will dry flat and totally invisible and will hold your knots without making the thread brittle, or leaving a shiny or white spot, as sometimes happens with CA. There may be an acrylic equivalent but this has worked wonderfully for me. I try to avoid CA in my shipbuilding at all costs. Not because of allergies, mind you. I just don't like it much.
  17. Is this modification approved by Jim??? Hehe... Great Idea. One thing I thought this machine really needs is exactly a way to hold that wheel in place. I have some large rubber bands around. Will try some. thank you.
  18. Hope to see your progress and accomplishments soon, Meredith. I feel much more confident with my RW Machine now. I am in the process of turning 3 spoolfulls of Guttermann quilting thread into a 3 laid rope. It's been a couple of days now because this thin threads take so many meters to fill a spool. I am planning to use these to keep turning left and right handed ropes to see how much is feasible or practical. See you soon.
  19. Good topic. I usually pour my wood glue (Gorilla or Titebond) in a plastic container of hair conditioner. Glue will not stick to it, the tip is just the wide I need, and fully closes after use. For gluing the frames to the false keel, I use wood glue in the inside area, and then run a line of hot glue on the outside. This seems to have worked pretty well in holding up these critical parts of the kit.
  20. Geoff. Jim says that you need to "harden" the rope you made in the machine, IF you want to use it again to make thicker rope on the machine. When I did this the first time, I forgot that, and had an excellent result nevertheless... now... hardening will not have any effect on the "untwisting" of the rope AFAIK. This to me sounds more like you made a LH rope using LH threads. I have had no problem with untwisting so far. When you cut the rope, the ends tend to unravel a bit. To prevent this, I tie 2 adjacent simple knots and cut in the middle of them. The other option, like when the knot will not fit through a hole, is to dip the end in thin CA, and cut in an angle. Hope this helps.
  21. Mark... according to Jim, the result diameter of the 3 strands laid rope is approx (diam. of thread * 2.25), not *3 as one may think.
  22. . Careful with the "aging" thing here. Remember the Vasa did not had time to age at all.
  23. I am currently working on making 3 spoolfulls of gutterman quilting thread into 1 3 strand rope. (Sorry forgot the correct terminology) There is a lot of thread in the spools and the thinner the rope, the slower it gets, so this may take me a few days because I can not spend 8 hours a day making ropes. What I intend to do is use those threads and start making LH and RH ropes using those very same threads to see how far I can go, and how large it is practical to get. I am trying to determine the best method of getting thick ropes. Please see my post above about what I consider the three methods to make thick ropes. I think that going by the method described here, of using the same threads several times, you will get large gaps in your diameters, and the method of using 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9 strands per spool will give you the widest choice of diameters, but the rope will look more "plain". What do others here think? I also think that a combination of these 2 methods may work, but we need to find the point at which to switch from one method to the other. (Am I making any sense???)
  24. Mark. I have loaded 2,3,4 and 7 strands in a spool. I made a very simple jig consisting of a piece of wood with 4 inch nails through it. Lets say I want to make 4 strand per spool rope. I just put 4 spools on the nails, grab 1 thread from each spool and tie them together at the machine's loading spools. I never worried about the tension. When the threads start winding up, just hold the threads between your fingers and the tension automatically adjusts. I think your problem may be the speed. I found that going slow improved my results dramatically. Floyd. I think more important than the size of the hole, (which Jim says should be tight) is speed. I made a 3 strand rope using Gutterman quilting thread which is really thin. The hole in the die was a lot larger than the 3 threads together, however, my rope came out almost perfect. (See photo in previous page) I had tried to do it before with no success, but the reason was I was trying to do it too fast. Hope this helps you both.
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