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About AON

  • Birthday November 15

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Spin and fly fishing;
    Violin and fiddle (you need to understand the difference to get this);
    Wood carving;
    Reading historical/fiction;
    Use to do a lot of sailing and hunting when I was much younger.

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  1. that ought to teach them not to take the keys and go for a spin in the harbour - 1830
  2. You must have a local (city) museum that would jump at the chance to have it donated. This way your work will be on display for relatives years after we are all dust and lost memories.
  3. Druxey Thank you for the quick reply, but now I am confused as the head/tenon on your photo is cut at an angle rather than square cut. I would have bet you were referring to the portion that fits through the cap, that it should have be square cut to leave a wedge shape protruding through as in the references I gave. The head of my bowsprit is finish with the cap, bees and bee blocks. The shape you refer to was done but is behind the blocks. Now I am not sure I should add a wedge to the head of my bowsprit or not.
  4. Druxey, Do you mean the square wedge bit I see poking through the cap in TFFM photos on pgs 82 and 91. I see it also in Rees's, Plate VIII. And also in The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, pg 8. Until now I'd only noticed other references I had looked at showed it flush... so I cut the darned bit off ages ago! Historic Ship Models - Wolfram zu Mondfeld - pg 227 (bowsprit head after 1780) The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships - C Nepean Longridge - pg 185 fig 116 Yes, I should have paid better attention to the contemporary sources Now I have to stick the "gum dang" thing back on (a Dan Blocker, Bonanza reference). Oh Joy.
  5. Thank you Jason and Jim. Being a novice I am very proud of what I've done, though it's taken ages to get this far. I've not done it on my own, meaning, I've had a good amount encouragement and excellent guidance. If only I found some enjoyment in fairing the cant frames they'd be done by now.
  6. I owe an apology to those nine souls that downloaded my updated document with drawings in post 1050. The sketch with the locations/positions of the two sets of five thumb cleats aft the jib boom saddle had not been switched out to show the position pattern I used. It has now been switched out and identified as rev3. Sorry for that but my checkers are practising social distancing
  7. Thank you again Craig. It was a long read but very descriptive! I just kept going... as did it. followed by kangaroos, birds, caterpillars and the local dialects
  8. What a fascinating read! Thank you for posting this.
  9. what happened to the trees? ah.. . they became ships. if this is high tide what happened in a full force gale wind and rain storm?
  10. Although TFFM suggests making the Woolding Hoops with paper or card I decided to try making them from wood. I determined the greatest circumference of my mast at the hoop locations and found a piece of scrap about three times this length. I sanded one side to get about 3" (0.05" to scale) thickness, clamped it in my vise, adjusted the blade on my hand plane to get about 0.03" thickness and went to it. The pieces were placed (floating) in a cup of boiling hot water. Once they sank to the bottom they were removed, wrapped around the mast at the hoop locations, clamped and left to dry overnight. The woolding rope is 1" diameter and there are 13 to 15 turns. Each set are spaced adequately to accommodate these. The next day the clamps were removed and the curls of wood were carefully cut with a scalpel to provide a butt joint. They were removed, coated on the inside with yellow wood glue, put back in position on the mast with the butt joint on the bottom (6 o'clock) and re-clamped. The next day the clamps were removed and the hoops were slightly sanded. (There will be more sanding to be done)
  11. Then was the spritsail yard sling saddle. It is located under the jib boom, between the jib boom saddle and the Bees. This is comprised of a small stop block with a sheet of lead nailed to the top half of the mast as a wear plate. I simulated the lead sheet with a shaving of wood... using a hand plane. This will be painted to look like lead. While dry fitting the stop piece it fell to the floor twice. Each time it bounced out of sight and was lost... I had made it three times!

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