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About AON

  • Birthday November 15

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    Spin and fly fishing;
    Violin and fiddle (you need to understand the difference to get this);
    Wood carving;
    Reading historical/fiction;
    Use to do a lot of sailing and hunting when I was much younger.

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  1. A good book for rigging French ships is The Seventy-Four Gun Ship, Volume 3, by Jean Boudriot. Page 130 shows a single line wrapped about the mast with the two ends dangling to one side of the mast. A thimble is eye spliced into each end. The bight around the mast is seized tight up to the mast. The block has a strop and thimble, and it is lashed to the dangling thimble mentioned earlier. Page 133 has the tye block strop eye lashed to an eye of a strop looped around the mast. You should get this book, translated to English version unless you are fluent en França
  2. Jason It seems some were lashed as discussed above where as others were a single splice strop making an oversized loop of rope (line). The deadeye (or thimble which is the example I am looking at in The Anatomy of Nelsons Ships, page 235) is fitted with the "item" inside the strop, rope in the groove and wrapped around it, then seized tightly to it. Possibly this is what was done in your case.
  3. Reading The Anatomy of Nelsons Ships (C.Nepean Longridge) page 233 and looking at the image in Rigging Period Ship Models - Square Rigged (Lennarth Petersson) page 11: "The first pair is doubled in the usual manner, the third shroud goes over the mast head with an eye splice." "Each shroud reeves through a hole in the outer end of the top mast cross trees, where it is served. Inclined inwards, the shrouds pass between the topmast shrouds, and inside the topmast futtock stave." "The top gallant shrouds are lashed to the first, third and fifth futtock plates on the fore and main
  4. Here is another image. I will see If I can find the other end of the shroud.
  5. Seems the foot or bottom of the column is pocketed into the deck (hidden or dashed lines below the top surface of the deck in the image). The head or top also is recessed into the beam from one side allowing it to slide out once the beam is lifted.
  6. Thank you Siggi, I have been wondering how they would swing a column up if it were hinged without the foot of the column being rounded to allow it to pivot, or even pull a column out. Hinged or not... of course they jacked the overhead beam up a smidgen to create the necessary clearance! DUH.
  7. I had six square frames installed... had to remove five of them and then alter my bow and stern supports as they were wandering again. The Plexiglas inserts that slide into the notches was out of square. I had secured it once before but apparently it didn't hold. This time I added a brace across the top, and then drilled and screwed the sides. It will never move again. The frames are back up and aligned properly. The next four frames are underway.
  8. David I just looked in TM+ROESOW and it was unclear... at least to me. The Anatomy of Nelsons Ships, page 233, figure 163 is quite clear. image attached.
  9. Mark pg 165, fig 197 you are correct... I learnt something new! Thank you for pointing that out. I've deleted the post. Alan
  10. Bonjour Jean-Philippe I had taken a sail making seminar held by David Antcherl and I have his booklet. I agree that this method produces very realistic, lifelike, sails. You should not be disappointed. Alan
  11. I am a board member of our local Public Library in Welland, Ontario, Canada, and we will be holding our first ever virtual Music Trivia Night this November 7th (next month) from 7PM to 8:30PM EST. Normally this annual event is attended in person at a local hall but with the pandemic situation that is not possible. As it is a virtual event, attended from your home via the internet I thought a few forum members might be interested! The cost is $10 Canadian, payable by credit card, for a house hold "bubble" as we refer to it up here (even though the attached poster reads "per play
  12. Good morning Druxey (et al) I finally got back to it. Is this image more along the lines of what you would have expected? Alan
  13. Unfortunately I do not have a mill, nor do I have the room in my shop to add one. Might consider moving a wall. It would be the third time. I cut my 4x13 blanks from 4x6x60 inch castello boxwood stock, plane them to thickness (within reason), cut those pieces in half and rubber cement them into matching pairs. I trace my timbers onto the top of one blank set and scroll saw the pieces out keeping well outside the line. This gives me the port and starboard halves with one cut. Then the curves are sanded to the line on a oscillating drum sander. The flats are sanded to the line
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