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About DBorgens

  • Birthday 01/20/1957

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    Seattle, WA

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  1. Be sure to include the width extensions for the pin rails, otherwise you will drill the holes nearly on the glue line. This leads to more shaping of the cap rails but is worth the effort. This is not an original thought, I saw it on another build log at the time. One thing I’ve learned about ship building is to always think ahead. Dave B
  2. Patrick, great progress. It is a pleasure to see her lines at these early stages. On to the fiddley bits of the interior (which I don’t do at 1/64th!). Say will you use real leather upholstery this time? 😁 Dave B
  3. Patrick, just stumbled across your latest, happiness. I’ll pull up and cheer you on. Dave B
  4. Wipe on poly on both. On the hull, I applied it before the putty. Dave B
  5. James, Looks good and you did a nice job on the deck. I used Bob’s practicum through most of the deck furniture. I thought his masting and rigging were a bit weak. I used logs in this forum, asked questions and got great help. Dave B
  6. We model for our pleasure and satisfaction. When we’re not satisfied, we have the pleasure of doing it again. Looks good, nice recovery. Dave B
  7. Patrick, you continue to amaze! Excellent work and a great story (in your build log) to boot. Dave B
  8. Patrick, truly amazing! Now, how about wine glasses on the coffee table? Dave B
  9. Nice recovery and good work with the false timbers. When you plank the bulwarks, consider if you want to add scuppers. These are best cut (actually better to file the scuppers) before setting the planks. I used a single plank with the scuppers cut in the bottom for the fore deck and on top for the quarter deck. I found this technique on another Bluenose build log (don't remember who) and it worked well for me. Here is a photo of my scuppers. You will have the advantage of being able to mark the actual timber locations (hey your mistake may pay off). Dave B
  10. Patrick Love the art work, when did you start painting murals? Dave B
  11. I too had trouble tapering the quarter deck planks. I tended to cut them then sand the width down which broke many times. At risk of running out of sticks, I did not run them full length under the cabin. That way I could reuse the broken planks. I later filled in the area under the cabin with various ends and scrap material. Not the proper way to build, but his was my first build so I was okay with cheating (or so I told myself). I also found scraping the taper led to fewer broken planks. Hold the plank on edge on a hard flat surface. I used a no. 11 Exacto blade. Takes a bit of practice to avoid creating an wavy taper. All that said, your “sanding stick” look like a good approach. I look forward to seeing how it works out. Working these “problems” is part of learning this hobby and a large portion of satisfaction in the completed model. Dave B
  12. Sanding sealer is a good idea. I finish sanded lightly with 600 grit paper and didn’t have trouble with fuzziness. Might be helpful to make a small sample deck planking to experiment with while not risking the ship. Just a thought. Dave B
  13. Very nice. A bit of scraping or sanding and clear coat (I use Wipe-on Poly) will make it snap and shouldn’t harm the waterway paint. If water based, test the clear coat on a sample board. Dave B
  14. Your dioramas would be excellent at three times the size, impressive to say the least. Dave B

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