von stetina

Hi Wefalk,  I use them too, there is a multitude of good ready made airbrush acrylic. I like Golden, or Auto-air. But when I'm very concerned with loosing detail to paint thickness for good even coverage I use a purpose ground paint with finer ground pigment.

Bruce  [Von Stetina]

I use Poly Scale acrylic as this company's solvent base Railroad paint is being discontinued Too bad as it was terrific. Humbrol is a top notch paint if you want to go solvent based now.

Von Stetina

I'm build the clipper Lightning. The only place you should have problems is around the stern, is that where your problem is? I used Holly and it bent around those compound bends easily. Even the moldings.  If you do have trouble with the moldings make vertical cuts behind it close together.  I didn't even wet the Holly.  You are painting it, I assume, as clippers look so great  back. So a switch in wood color won't matter.

Von Stetina

There are some decent methods on U-Tube under mostly plastic modeling, but some should cross-over OK. I do a lot of RR modeling and one thing I can tell you is to not over-do it. A lot of efforts come out so weathered that the item looks like something from a junkyard. Unless you ARE modeling a junkyard! Some research on the real things will show you what's needed. A look around some marinas may work.

Von Stetina

Does the term bulk carrier mean with a specific date of ship? I know merchant sail carried what I think of as bulk back then, guano, etc.

Can you enlighten me?

Bruce

That sounds pretty good, doing a whole ball at once. I have an earlier conversation in this rigging section about my slack rigging problem. I felt my problem was possibly left over salt and that I had used shellac instead of wax. My lower stays and shrouds drooped very badly when my AC was on, and went tight when it was off despite rainy weather. I now have Conservator's Wax.

I like Ritt too, I'll pick some up if I can find it in this back country area. Can always order some too. I had new Dylon on hand that used only salt as a setting agent. I have very old Dylon that has a setting agent that seems to be a household soda. It says to add salt too though. I wonder if I could use only the soda on my new dye?

 Unlike the new Dylon I used it says to wash it with detergent. I'll do at test. However my mother inlaw gave this old dye  to me...it may turn my rigging to ash!

My new thread arrived today. Ecru is too pale so I tried an experiment with raw umber acrylic ink. Looks good. But I'll try some finer thread to check for stiffness.

Bruce

I haven't been able to beat Bear Air.

Von Stetina

I've needed a lathe for a long time for several reasons. Concerning mini machines I have one thought. If you have room A bigger machine is usually better in my experience. Still does the tiny stuff and usually better as I understand it. I'll probably end up with a mini too though due to cost. Unless I find a good larger used one.

Any  professional machinists out there have a thought in this regard?

Von Stetina

 Chuck, I'm afraid of the salt in the cloth dye. I'm afraid I won't get it all out. Last lower rigging kept going very slack and I had to cut it all off and started over. My thought is that some salt was left in the rope. Even waxed it still drooped bad and was good linen.

I used Dylon brand and the black was weak. Rit would have been better. I used to tie dye T shirts with it and it was good. For running rigging I bought Ecru color and will modify if/as needed, actually I bought all ecru as only that and white were available.

Right now I'm experimenting with India Ink reduced slightly with water. I'm getting good penetration and it isn't stiff.

Druxey, Yes, my top sounds like yours and works great . I love watching it run up the rope. It's shaped like a  pointed rifle bullet.On the machine I'm changing the one end now to be sort of like Keith's. I can't afford a 2nd new motor right now. I'm looking for an old electric can opener cheap, or a drill. I think static hooks will be OK. What do you think?

Bruce

Hi Druxey, Good Question. I've done both, but all comes out well except with the DMC Cordennet. I'm anxious to try Chucks method. I need to modify my machine as I had a single hook down the other end. Maybe this was a big part of the problem I built my machine Like the Longridge book on the Victory.

Bruce

Hi Chuck,  I'll give this a try, makes sense. I need 11 1/2 shrouds and stays. A lot of them as the clipper Lightning had this size all the way back to her topgallants. Knowing you work in my scale helps. I'm using size 80 thread to make these up. I used 2 strands on 4 whirls. I guess at 1/8 scale I can get away with using only 3 whirls, but now my starting size will change. I've also ordered many larger sizes so I'll see how the sizes look. If I get lucky I can find a size to let me use 1 per whirl. I need a lot of sizes and have been making them OK. putting up to 3 strands on each whirl. This square problem is  something else! When I switched to Londonderry Linen or plain Egyptian Cotton it went away. Lots to learn!

I'll let you know how I make out when my thread arrives. Last delivery took a while. I sure hope mine looks like yours. I couldn't find black and will have to dye it. Only ecru and white were available. Any recommendations?

Thanks,  Bruce

Hi Chuck,  Suspicion confirmed. 2 on each of the 4 whirls. Only the DMC did it. It was very nice, but sguare. I'll appreciate your advice.

Thanks Janos and Daniel.

Bruce

I've had excellent results making rope on my rope walk untill I tried using DMC Cordennet. It came out distinctly square in section. This thread is made of Egytian Cotton and plain thead of this type made beautiful rope, also Londonderry Linen, though one was too fuzzy and the other too lumpy even after treatment.

I know I did something wrong and am about to try again with it. Before I do does anyone have a time and material saving hint? The DMC Cordennet is LH and I Had wanted LH but not now. On my plans for my clipper it states that all Russian Hemp standing rigging was RH, [a surprise to me] I plan on making RH this time as my plans are by a renowned clipper researcher, William Crothers. Will using LH to make RH cure my problem?

Von Stetina    [bruce]

Thanks Davec,  I've been looking into reveiws online on the combination machines. Seems mostly very bad. It looks like what I normaly find out is true, that you have to spend the bucks to get professionasl results. Like with the Byrnes machines. It looks like I'll need to spend at least $800.00 for a 12 inch shear. One purose machine looks best. Sure can't afford that right now!

Bruce

Hi Jaxboat, You might look at the Conservator's Wax, looks good.

Thanks Druxey, I can't stand moving forward if I'm dissatisfied with something. Even the stuff I'm satisfied with I want to do better on next time.

Thanks for your advice, by the way. I know I can trust it as I've seen your work. It speaks for itself. Excellent.

I corresponded a while back with Keith about rigging as I did with you. He was using DMC Cordennet. As it is made of Egyptian Cotton as you had suggested I've decided to use it this time. I did have a sample spool that I had a problem experimenting with it on my rope walk. It came out with a square-ish in profile. I think a modification on my rope walk to make mine more like Keith's and more experiments will solve it. But it was pretty weird and it kept happening.

Bruce

Hi Wefalk, Missed your reply somehow. That's interesting, when it swells it tightens. I never would have guessed. That makes sense now. I wish I had measured the rigging when the AC was on now. Never thought of swelling. I've cut it all off now and refurbished the lower standing rigging's approximately 200 parts. [sHEESH!]

Now I'm in a quandry over materials as I didn't like the bit of lumpyness I had left on my linen despite much work. The plain Egyptian Cotton thread made beautiful line, the DMC Cordennete had a square-ish look that I couldn't seem to tune out. A shame as there are so many sizes of this nice Egyptian Cotton type thread at decent prices. I need a lot of 11 1/2 inch rigging at 1/8 scale at about .038.  I guess it may be time to open a new topic!

Bruce

Hi Andy, that's an interesting thought. I'll do a test. I've got a lot of that stuff around. The Conservator's wax looks very good though and I'll probably go with that. It did seem to work well. I'ts still got me bugged why my rigging went limp with the AC on though. What the heck?!

I'd of thought it would dry out and being cooler, contract.

Before I put anything on all was fine. Just a very slight difference with the AC on. None with weather changes. We don't like living in canned air. We run the AC only when it gets really bad. [When my longhair cat buddy starts sleeping belly up it's time!]

Bruce

Hi Wefalk,

You haven't seen the thing!  About 1/4 slack. I've been on real square riggers and seen the slack, no comparison. I have to say though that the Victory's backstays were pretty slack. However the shrouds sagged bad too. Also if you look at photos of new clippers you will see that they are  pretty darn tight, and I'm building one.

I tied the Conservator's Wax. It seems the damage was done already....no help except on  previously untreated areas. Having to try to soak the wax into the rigging in place on the ship ruined the look of the scale rope. It also did other unsightly things.

SO!  I have stripped all the rigging off and prepared all the parts I removed for re-rigging. I found the rigging to be pretty easy work, including the ratlines. It will be worth starting over and using my new found experience to get it right. But it sure is a bummer!  Oh well, I had to re-do my coppering too. Afetr that, well,.......

On much reflection I've decided 2 factors doomed my rigging. First I used fabric dye. I figure as thread is fabric I should. But I think there may have been residual salt left in the rigging despite good rinsing. Salt absorbs moisture. It's been super rainy here. The other factor I think was a big contributor is following Underhills advice to used shellac. The rigging was fine before I shellaced it. Putting the wax over it just made a mess. I did a test first, but when I did the real thing it showed up more. The wax sat in the little valleys of the rope and looked white no matter what I did. It got onto the deadeyes causing the same problem. The two coating filled the nice valleys that made the rope look real too. Other Underhill advice has been not so hot either.

This time I won't use linen, but use all Egyptian Cotton as it made the nicest rope. Druxey advised trying this thread and as usual his advice was excelent.

One huge thing still stumps me. Why did it go slack whrn I ran the AC, and tighten with the windows open to the hot damp weather?

Bruce

Hi Dave,

That's what I've been afraid of. A shame as it would make a pain in the neck job easy. I buy brass strips of some sizes from Special Shapes. They supply K&S. I know the must use a shear somehow as that tiny distortion is on the edge of the stip. Seems I always need in between sizes.

I'll keep using my table saw I guess. I use a sliding table with a jewewler's slotting blade. I get waste too trying to be accurate duplicating width.

Thank, Bruce

I finally had a good job come into my studio so I'm going to get a much needed tool.

I cut a lot of thin brass sheet .005 - .015 into thin strips- down to 1/32 wide. Have any of you used one of these combination bench top metal shear/ brake machines. Some also have a slip roll. I'm looking at the brands Baileigh, and Woodward Fab. I definately don't trust the made in china Micromark one, I've found complaints.

Any info would be greatly appreciated, I can't afford to spend on something that won't do what I need.

Thanks,

Von Stetina

Thanks Druxey,

I'll bite the bullet and order the wax. I've found a small quantity at a fair price.

Bruce

I tried a test on a piece iof rigging with diluted beeswax and it soaks in OK without loosing detail, so conservators wax should too. I really hate to pull this rigging off, I'm hoping to save it.

Bruce

Druxey, Did you tell me that beeswax might deteriorate rigging? Wish I could use it, I have a bunch and conservators wax looks expensive and money is SO tight. But if beeswax will cause deterioration there's no choice.

Bruce

 On my clipper Lightning I've progressed to the point on my standing rigging that I'm putting up topmasts and all had been well concerning tension under many weather conditions. My rigging is tensioned well. I keep my place mostly open windowed. I figured that if all was well with my workroom at 90 plus degrees and pretty high humidity all would be well. All was tight down to the 40's too heating by wood stove, the air very dry. I ran air conditioning for short spells too earlier this summer with only very minor slackening, which was a surprise, but it was not bad.

Today I ran the AC and the rigging went slacker than ----!  I'm FREAKED !!!!

My rigging is pre-stretched Londonderry Linen and Egypyian Cotton that has been shellaced.  I turned off the AC and opened my windows and all was well again after a short time, nice and tight.

HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  I'm wondering If I'll need to start over !

Von Stetina

Hi Antony, I'll bet your set up works better than any mass market set up too. You certainly look knowledgable.

Von Stetina