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  1. I have chosen the Medway longboat as one of two projects that I am going to start now. The other is the brigantine Lexington, a semi-scratch build based on plans by Clayton Feldman and a mini-kit from The Lumberyard. It is my current intention to begin the longboat now, but suspend work when I get the Lexington project started (Chuck's delivery time is considerably shorter than The Lumberyard). I will then take the longboat to New Jersey, where we will be spending a portion of the summer, and possibly early fall, and hopefully complete it there. So far, I have completed the keel assembly and transom, and am starting on the frames. I'm embarrassed to have to admit that I butchered one of the overlap joints on the keel and have to use the simplified joint version. Not a good start. Bob
  2. This will be the start of my Medway Longboat kit once I receive it. I have been following the development of this kit and it will be fun building it in a Group setting. I have watched projects being developed over the years by Chuck and each one gets better and more innovative than the one that preceded it. The first step in this build is to visit the downloads page which has all of the chapters of the build plus other information that will help you in the building of your Longboat. It can be accessed by going to the link below:
  3. I'm on board too. This is the first message of my log on the Medway Longboat build. Impatient to learn new techniques. Sure it will be very rewarding.
  4. Now, I did not really intend to get involved in a project like this. My current boat (Deben 5 tonner) still needs a lot of work and has been going on for close to 4 years. However, this week I somehow found myself with a lot of free time to sit in front of a computer but not being able to work in the garage. I stumbled across the prints that the National Maritime Museum sells and there were some of boats carried by ships of the line that looked nice and detailed. I have always wanted to draft from printed lines and I ve been missing messing about with planks so I started playing with CAD. I just used the images the museum has on the on line shop. I progressed rather well, kind of 20% through the first lofting, so I thought I ll start a log initially with the CAD lofting and then with the boat it self, provided of course I ll get a reasonable result. Without a deck and rigging and with just a few planks it should not take more than 2 years to complete... I would like to try and do a nice lapstrake, not sure if it is historically accurate. Also, I cannot find easily much info on how these boats were actually built in terms of stringers, thwarts etch so I ll use some more modern arrangements and hope for the best, unless in the meantime I get by some more info. I admit I have not searched through MSW yet. I would like to try for a quality model, choosing appropriate wood, lining up holes, being careful with fit and finish etc. We ll see.. Enough talking, lets get down to business. This is the set of plans I used. The print costs £25 and can be ordered on line but as I said I just used the picture uploaded on the webisite. I think we are ok with copyright issues. More info on https://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86936.html The plans show that this boat has a Davit but I will ignore this, at least for now as I do not really understand how it works. It seems like an interesting twist though. These plans are really very detailed. They include the keel, three WL, two diagonals, the sheer, all but the middle frames (this seems to be common practice) and also some of the interior arrangement. They proved later quite accurate and it is amazing that people can produce this with a ruler and a pencil. Especially the accuracy of the diagonals is impressive. Tracing the lines showed that there was slight distortion of the paper so adjustments had to be made. Getting all pieces in the correct position produced a half hull In the next photo, the sheer was created from the two views (red lines) provided in the plan. It fits the frames reasonably close. After I took this screenshot I had to re position all fore frames to account for the missing middle frame. This sorted things out. Later on I also found a small mistake and correcting it raised all the frames a bit. These is the top view of the waterlines. A bit of effort was needed to get them somewhat fair And on to the hull...not too bad. The diagonals (blue) are also added The sheer seems reasonably fair. This is the only line that really needs to be fair as it will not change and will be a reference line. All other lines except maybe the diagonals will change during the lofting cycles. The waterlines are also faired but these will get adjusted many times The hull with just the lines. Note that the transom in the plans is given in its vertical projection. It first needs to be projected in the angled plane it would normally be prior to adding to the hull This concluded the first part which is to just get all lines drawn. Now, the first lofting cycle begins. I created two more WL to help me maintain the shape of the frames in the upper strakes (green colour) I decided that the diagonals are the more accurate lines and I will follow these, using the WLs to maintain the shape of the frames. This is how I arranged the new shape and how much off the frame was. Not too much really. The small horizontal lines were added to maintain the distance from the old line, so keeping the same shape as close as possible. Later on, the WLs will be created anew and faired and the cycle will begin again. In the next two photos, you can see that the frames on the left side that have been faired follow the lines much closer than the rest Now we can try and create a bit of surface with the frames we have adjusted and see how it looks and how smooth it is. The points and lines from adjusting the 5th frame can be seen in the background. This is not bad at all considering that the waterlines have not been faired back at all. Of course the difficult areas will be first the two segment at the bow and possibly the transom. To my experience the transom always creates problems! It looks promising though. I am not sure when I ll have time to do any more work on this but it has been fun. If I ever manage to build this it will be a big baby at 640 mm LOA, some planks will be close to 80 cm long! Off to a very busy weekend, I will be doubling the lighting in my garage, it should be as bright as a supenova afterwards. Regards Vaddoc
  5. And so it begins. I just received my Medway Kit. And this is the beginning of my build log. I contacted Chuck a couple weeks ago and asked when he would have some kits in stock. He was kind enough to drop me an email telling there were 6 new kits. But the time I placed my order 4 were gone. 4 days later I received my kit. There is no comparison to receiving a Kit from Chuck and any other supplier. This is my first order from the Syren ship company besides parts & rigging. The quality is unmatched. The nice aroma of Cedar isn't bad either. I did the checklist (which by the way he provides for you). And of course everything was there and in good condition. So I have my first question - In reading other logs I have found a digital tool mentioned which appears to be a height gauge for a table saw. Can someone explain how you use your table saw for the Keel scarf joint? If I understand correctly you are cutting the depth and then cutting away the extra wood by hand? PS I have ordered the tool (we can never have enough tools). So I am waiting for my order from Rockler. It also appears that Rockler need to talk to Chuck. His package arrived 2 days ago. And still no sign of Rockler.
  6. The Medway Longboat by Syren is a very popular model. As designed, it produces a beautiful model and in a larger scale that shows significant detail. I was asked to produce a set of sails for the Longboat. This topic will lead you through a process that I use for making sails. I will point out in the beginning, that this method has been used many times. It is also a shop note in the NRG Publication "Ship Modelers Shop Notes". It has also been demonstrated in several venues including Northeast Joint Clubs. I have added a few of my own tweaks to this process. My chosen material is silk span. Silkspan looks like tissue paper but it is a fabric and it does have a specific weave. It is marked by Bluejacket as Model Span. More to follow. Download the entire sail Tutorial here....Sails for a Cutter Rigged Long Boat.pdf Tom
  7. This is the start of my build for the Medway Longboat. There are two really special contemporary models in the NMM. This is a totally revamped and completely new longboat project with actually little in common with my earlier design for Model Shipways. It is based on an entirely different original draft and more closely resembles the contemporary models. In fact its almost identical as far as I can tell. It will be a true POF model with floors and top timbers. This model will be made from Alaskan Yellow Cedar with boxwood accents and molding. This model will be made both partially planked and fully planked eventually just like the two contemporary models. The fully planked version will show all rigging and also sails. Hopefully. A little about the contemporary models shown below. Scale 1:48. A contemporary full hull model of a ship's longboat, said to be from the 'Medway' (1742) (SLR0328), built plank on frame in the Navy Board style. The model is partially planked and equipped with a large windlass amidships for use when handling the anchors. It is mounted on its original veneered baseboard. Another model, SLR0330, shows the ‘Medway’ longboat rigged and fully planked. The longboat was generally the largest boat carried on board ship and could either be pulled or sailed. It was used for carrying personnel and stores as well as mooring and anchors work. When carried on board, the longboat was stowed in the waist between the fore and main masts lashed on the spare topmasts and spars. It was hoisted in and out by means of the large block and tackles rigged to the lower fore and main yards. A contemporary full hull model of the 'Medway' (1742), shown below - 60-gun two-decker ship of the line
  8. Took a long time to decide on a first build, finally picked the 18th Century Longboat from Model Shipway. Spent the first day sanding the burnt sections off the pieces, assembling the Keel and creating the bevel from the bearding line. I also followed BobF's direction to mount my ship with brass rods.
  9. Hi - I am building the 18th Century Armed Longboat 1/24 scale and am having problems with the initial rigging steps for the shroud lines. The manual describes "tan rope" to be used to rig the deadeyes together. The problem is that the kit comes with three tan rigging lines: WP1241 - .2mm beige jewelry nylon (10ft); WP1244 - 1mm beige jewelry nylon (2ft); and WP1245 - 1.5mm beige jewelry nylon (10 yds). I have followed the instructions with the thick (1.5mm) rope, but I cannot thread it through the deadeyes. I tried the .2mm line, but it seems too thin and though the line threads through the deadeye fine, the knot also threads through. I would try the 1mm line as it seems the right size, but it is designated as "anchor rope" and there is only 2ft of it. I thought about drilling out the holes in the deadeyes to accommodate the 1.5mm line, but that seems an excessive way to go. I'd appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.
  10. It's official, I'm gonna start making sawdust! I ordered the kit Saturday, and got tracking info this afternoon... I might be a little excited... I've been reading other ALB logs, and checking out the planking articles, but it's a bit fuzzy... I'm thinking things will probably make more sense once I have the kit on my work desk... I'm more of a hands-on learner with stuff like this... I will probably want to put a sail on the boat (I prefer the look of models with sails, they look naked to me without them). Not sure if the kit mentions anything about sails, or if I'm gonna have to figure it out on my own... Can't wait to start the build!
  11. Endeavour's Longboat - Artesania Latina Hello all, Since introducing myself a few weeks ago I have been reading through a great many references on this site and elsewhere on t’interweb, trying to glean and understand as much knowledge as possible on the process of wooden ship kit building. Replies to my initial post offered a warm welcome, encouragement, and links to various ‘where and where not to start’ posts and I am grateful to all for those. Taking the lead from a link to a list of kits suitable for a first venture into sticking bits of wood together rather than bits of plastic, I chose the Artesania Latina Endeavour’s Longboat kit. I’m guessing that this is a popular embarkation point if the number of returns a search for the subject on MSW is anything to go by, so apologies if it’s all too familiar to you, it certainly isn’t for me. I acquired the kit via a well known online auction site and as I had some Nectar loyalty points stashed away got it for a modest £38.00. In addition I had to buy a couple of tools and some wood glue, but I pretty much have everything I need from fettling plastic, so the overall outlay for the introduction to wooden ship/boat kit modelling was very palatable. The kit duly arrived and inspected……a kit of parts. The instructions, as expected, having read other’s build logs leave a lot to be desired, colourful and well printed, but not very descriptive or even accurate. And so to the build; The basic frame was constructed without the aid of a jig, keel clamp or safety net but care was taken to ensure that the frames were square to the keel, the vertical and the horizontal, I have to say however that the frame to keel location slots were a little slack on my kit, especially at the very stern (Transom) which required that I shim out the keel evenly on both sides to ensure that I had mating surfaces to actually glue. Once the basic frame was glued and set, I roughly filed and sanded the bow and stern strengthening blocks and then in-filled with some balsa and filler and more accurately sanded to the correct profile, at the same time I started the process of fairing the frames. With the fairing complete I had to bite the bullet and decide on which method I was going to employ to make the planking wood more malleable, even though it is only the first layer I wanted to make sure I was being as accurate as possible not least because this is a model of an open boat so the first layer is partially visible from the inside. I settled on soaking the planks in pairs in freshly boiled water rather than just heat. Annoyingly, despite drilling pilot holes for map pins both initial planks split so clamping had to be used at the bow. The planks were left clamped over night to dry. Once dry and the clamps removed, I used CA to affix the plank at the bow then pinned and clamped before gently easing the plank onto the next frame, gluing, clamping, and moving onto the next. Both top planks were completed in the same manner, other than one side was glued entirely with CA whilst the other was a combination of CA (at the bow) and Titebond II on the frames just to see if there was any noticeable difference in general flexibility of the bond….none discernible. First two planks glued and set. Onward and upward, sorry downward. Any comments, observations and suggestions are most welcome. Cheers, Mark.
  12. OK, so here we go, this is my first ever wooden ship model, so be gentle with me!! I'm 58 this year and have been building plastic model kits since I was a wee one, mainly military vehicles, Tamiya 1:35 scale. After many years away from modelling (family, kids and all that), I started again about 10 years ago but this time with big stuff - 1:14 scale RC trucks mainly. I was keen to start another kit but found the new Tamiya 1:14 truck WAY too expensive at £900 - they don't even have opening doors for goodness sake! Looking around I stumbled on wooden ships and decided to try my hand. I also found this forum which has been a blessing, with lots of build logs and useful tips. I also realised through the forum that it was a good idea to start with a smaller kit, so it was I bought the Endeavour Longboat. Very impressed on the unboxing, some nice looking wood and wire cut frame pieces, the instructions are pretty clear too and some good quality colour photos. I soon had the basic frame built without much trouble.
  13. I'm currently building the subject model and have just got to the sails and rigging - eek! I am an absolute novice when it comes to boats, I don't know any nautical terms (I know the difference between port and starboard, but that's about it!) and have no idea about how rigging on these old boats works / worked. I've been reading a some posts and build logs to give me a few clues which help and I think, with the scale, I can get away with a few odd non-nautical knots with a blob of glue! Could I ask for some of you that have built this kit, or similar, to post a few close up shots of the rigging, in particular the block and tackle arrangements? Do you make any modifications to the 'blocks' to put deeper grooves in them as I can see the ropes will likely slip off! Ta!
  14. 04/04/21 Well I wasn't planning on starting this one yet. However my airbrush is temporarily out of order. So for the moment I can't finish the Tamiya M4A3E8 Sherman I was close to completing. 😠 Again, this will be my first wooden kit. I may have done a plastic ship or two way back in the day. This is actually the Model Shipways combo kit that came with paint, glue, some tools, etc. The first thing I had to do was to take inventory and orient myself with what was what precisely. And it entailed using a ruler, some masking tape and a pen. I wish I had more exciting progress to post. But I'm still reading through the instructions (again) to come up with an outline. I will definitely have some questions right off the bat. For now, though: Wish me luck!
  15. Definitely looking forward to getting in on this, so this is my build log for the Medway Longboat kit. Next post... whenever things start! I will however be out of the country for a couple of weeks starting a week from today, so I may not get in on the first batch.
  16. I received my kit in the mail yesterday and am about to embark on my build. On opening the kit it was discovered that the aft section of the build board had the end tab broken off. No doubt this happened in shipping. I have attempted a fix and will know tomorrow if it worked, and will then reinforce that area somehow. I have started on the keel and discovered that an hour in the shop seems like 5 minutes. Enjoying myself on my first ever build
  17. Hello everybody after some time lurking around the forums Ive started my first model. Looking forward to sharing with everyone, and thanks in advance for any advice/training. Ive spent most my life on boats and ships so it seems natural I found my way to this hobby. It looks I haven't chosen the easiest kit for a beginner? Looking forward to getting to know everybody! Ive started by setting up my work space and making a variety of sanding sticks. Bulkheads installed and fairing process begun. I quickly learned that they aren't kidding about how important the accuracy of bulkhead alignment/precision of fairing. I already see some minor hard spots developing in my planked hull. Lesson learned. Planking is underway and seems to be going okay. The directions describe a process of dividing the measured frame depth by the number of planks you want to install. I measured to the nearest 1/32" and converted to decimal for using my calipers. Is this method correct? It looks okay but its hard to envision how it will end up.
  18. This is a build log for the CAFMODEL longboat. Although I will dwell in detail on the features and instructions of the kit, it is not an official kit review as this is my first ever attempt at building a laser cut kit and it would clearly be wrong for my comments and observations to carry the weight of an experienced reviewer/builder. Having said that, the kit instructions show where parts go, not how to do it, and I believe anyone building this model will come across the same issues I encountered. Hence the level of detail in my log. After an exchange of emails with Tom at CAFMODEL I purchased this and two other kits. I found Tom very approachable and helpful. The kit: The CAFMODEL longboat (SB130 – 168) is a 1/48 scale French longboat based on Ancre sources. The subject is ostensibly a Louis XV era longboat but could equally represent a later craft. It is of laser cut cherry wood and plywood plus photoetched parts. There is also a piece of .8mm brass wire for some detail work. EDIT: it also has a small fret of photo-etched brass. The quality is good. The box contents are neatly packed. Instructions are graphic-style with a few notes (in English) and scale drawings. 2mm cherry, 1mm ply and .4mm cherry veneer make up the boat parts. The building cradle is 2mm ply. The laser cutting was precise and I found no areas where anything was over- or under-cut. The first thing was to understand the parts and what is required. This took me three cups of tea. Eventually I had a plan and, at least up to the time of writing, it has proved to be a good one. The critical process is the handling of the ribs and that will be explained when we come to them. To state the obvious, the building cradle is absolutely vital. Before assembly, I tested the fit of the different pieces of wood used for the stem and the ribs in their slots. To play safe I opened up the slots in the top piece for the ribs with a few strokes of 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around an old steel ruler. Next, I decided to screw the assembled cradle down to a block. This is not in the instructions but I anticipate this will help later. There are slots in the bottom piece of the cradle to hold the keel in place. When it is time to remove the keel assembly you push upwards through these slots to remove the skeleton. These slots will be covered so I drilled access holes in the bigger block before screwing the cradle down. Once screwed to block and checked, we’re off.
  19. Hi there. I've been following Chucks build log with much interest and decided that it was time for me to jump in at the deep end and have a go myself. I have limited experience having only built the Sergal Presidant kit and then Victory Models HMS Fly, so be gentle with me. Looking forward to purchasing the kit and getting started.
  20. Hello all, This is my first try at posting a project to MSW, so please be patient with me. As part of the Longboat Tri-Club build, I've been lagging hopelessly far behind everyone else. After studying the various models already posted, I feel that my offerings will be very redundant, and certainly not as good. Anyway, I'm going to start with square one, and go from there. Removing the burn marks on the back side of the sheets went quite well. Next step was to duplicate the bearding line on the port side of the false keel, and make the necessary bevels for the rabbet. Using a piece of glass and some clamps, I assembled the keel, stem and false keel. I then squared up the stem and keel. Using the glass plate and a sanding block it went quite well. The sandpaper was attached to the block with two-sided tape, which is one of my most useful tools. At this point, I constructed a building board. The angle brackets had to be adjusted to ensure that they were square. I then epoxied some basswood to one face of each bracket. Slightly undersized screws were used to affix them to the building board. This provided some adjustability. Two steel blocks, a small square and a clamp were used to ensure that the bulkheads were plumb when glued to the false keel. The small angle was adjusted up or down as each new bulkhead was put in place. Although the blocks were a bit cumbersome, the results were acceptable. I found that it was necessary to introduce some play into the bulkhead notches before they were glued in place. The Elmer's glue caused the wood to expand, and on a number of occasions adjustments were almost impossible to make. One bulkhead had to be re-glued twice before it had the correct orientation.
  21. Model Shipways kit for sale...New-in-Box, never started: SOLD 1) Model Shipways #1457... 18th Century Longboat Kit...1/48th Scale...$40 postpaid USA via FedEx Ground shipment. Please note I will be selling a number of shipbuilding related items from my workshop in the coming days, including tools and difficult to find modeling books...a result of my realizing my modeling passion is live steam model railroading. Stay tuned for some great stuff that I hope will be helpful to those with a passion for shipbuilding. Best Regards, Cliff
  22. INTRODUCTION AND OTHER BUILDS In June 2017 I was considering what to build next. The main criterion was to keep learning but with a different type of boat and a different type of construction. I tinkered with the idea of La Jacinthe, Le Rochefort, and even thought of embarking on Ed Tosti’s plans for the Naiad. However I thought a logical next step would be to go for a longboat using a mould as construction type. So I started on Gérard Delacroix’ plans for the French armed longboat of 1834. The plans for this are available in several languages from Ancre at https://ancre.fr/en/monograph/31-monographie-de-la-chaloupe-armee-en-guerre-1834.html. As stated in the English translation of the introductory manual, the model is “based on a draught in the 1834 Atlas du Génie Maritime (Folio of the Corps of Naval Engineers). The longboat, at 42’8” long, is of imposing dimensions, being large even for a ship’s boat: a man standing on the bottom boards would have the thwarts at chest height.” This type of boat was used for the transport of the heavier loads required by warships and diverse tasks including carrying of anchors, shore duties, watering parties and carrying stores when the ship was in service. They could also participate in harbour defence and sometimes were armed with a single gun as well as several small cannon. There are several excellent builds that can be seen on the internet. The place to start, of course, is with the forum devoted to this model on Marine & Modélisme d’Arsenal at http://5500.forumactif.org/f83-la-chaloupe-armee-en-guerre-1834-plans-gerard-delacroix. There you can find a general discussion about points of interest that people come across while building the model as well as several builds. Very few of the builds go into the details of how they overcome problems as they come across them. However one in particular has gone to great lengths to detail each step of the construction. This is the build by Jean-Jacques Herault, which you can find starting with an index to the build at http://modelisme-arsenal.hlt34.fr/journal_de_la_chaloupe_armee_007.htm. All these builds are in French only. For builds in English, though, there are several on this forum: · Jeronimo’s build at https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/497-chaloupe-arm%C3%A9e-en-guerre-by-jeronimo-1834/#comment-5561. (Just pictures, no discussion of techniques). · Aykut Anşin’s at https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/5550-chaloupe-armee-by-aykut-an%C5%9Fin-small/#comment-159523. Only shown as far as the mould, last post in Feb 2015. · Decoyman’s (Rob) at https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4218-chaloupe-armee-en-guerre-by-decoyman-from-the-delacroix-plans/#comment-120001. Fairly full discussion but last post was in July 2015, and only as far as frames made on the mould. · Smac’s gallery of the completed build at https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/109-chaloupe-armee-en-guerre-1834/. · Blockplane’s (Chris) at https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/14743-1834-42ft-longboat-armed-for-war-by-blockplane-scale-136-first-time-wooden-boat-build/&. Complete, last post in May 2017. There is in addition a very useful series of 11 videos of a complete build (called Chalupa Armada) by Nacho Gomez starting at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HlUJabWYFTY. Each of these is over an hour long and is a useful reminder of how to use basic hand tools. All are spoken in Spanish, but even if you don’t speak Spanish the videos are almost self-explanatory. No doubt there are excellent builds as well in the Russian, Polish, East European and Japanese forums, but as I don’t speak any of those languages I simply have not researched them. If anyone does know of such other builds I’d be grateful to add them to the list. MY AIMS WITH THIS BUILD LOG Clearly, with so many builds of such high quality, you’re not going to get anything classy in this build log. It is a very basic build by a novice with poor finishing and lots of mistakes and ugliness. However, as with my previous builds, these are presented as they came, with the idea that there are lots of other builders with the same lack of expertise who come across similar problems and would like to see how I might have coped with them. I also know that along the way those who are more experienced might well chip in and give words of caution, advice and rebuke. All are welcome! FIRST STEPS As usual, the first steps are to study the plans and trace them into a CAD programme so that I can make accurate copies for cutting out and for planning. I use TurboCAD, which is very low cost and which I am now used to. The next thing is to make the mould. The plans are based on making a mould from 5mm thick plywood sheets (the waterlines are space at 4.5mm). Since that size is impossible to find in the UK, I had to work out how to make it from 5.5mm sheets. That meant making the waterlines spaced at 5.5mm, and so I set about doing just that using the time-honoured method of calculating the points of each waterline from the body plans of the station lines and the station lines set at right angles. In order to do so, however, although you only need the body plan from Plan 2 for the mould to create the water lines, I thought it would be a good idea to draw the frames completely as I’d have to be doing that anyway. The way to do this is to combine the body plans from Plan 1 (which shows the station lines to the edge of the frames but without planks) with those from Plan 2 (which shows just the body plan for the mould itself, without frames or planks). The result can be seen in the following diagram of one of the frames, Frame 4F (F for Front or 4Av in the plans, for 4 Avant). This shows that the frame starts at 3mm at the keel and taper upwards to 2.2mm at its tops – but this is an issue to which I will return later when I try to correlate the suggestions in the book to use 2mm square stock for the floors and futtocks against the 3mm floors derived from the Plan. For the moment all that matters is the trace of the inner aspect of the frame to create the mould. The following is the creation of the new waterlines to space at 5.5mm, which is the thickness of the plywood I was able to buy here in the UK. You will also note the various measurements I also inserted to help with the placing of the wales and the stern timbers. With the drawing of both the waterlines and the frames completed, I could then move on to drawing the outlines of each of the waterlines for the 5.5mm plywood. The method follows the classical way of doing this, so no surprises here. A final question that I faced for the creation of the mould was how to do that from Plan 2 because the stern shown in the drawing on that Plan has a very troubling empty space. At the time I decided to just follow the sweep of the hull, but it later dawned on me that a more exact way would be to superimpose the tracing of the outline from Plan 1 onto Plan 2. That way both the line of the hull and the cut for the sternpost and deadwood would be clarified. Should I ever have to rebuild the mould I’ll be doing it that way in future. The following diagram should explain it better. Now that all the drawings were ready, I set to cutting the waterlines from the plywood and, for the keel, cutting the 1.6mm groove for the keel using a 3mm milling bit on my Proxxon drill. I’ll be showing how I made the modifications for using the drill as a mill later on in this build log. I cut the outline for the sheer view with a scroll saw and a sander on my drill. The individual stations were printed to thick card and the cards then glued to a 2mm plywood frame for strength. And at last we get to the assembly of the waterlines. The above picture was taken on the 27th July 2017, just before sanding. After sanding it down I had to put aside all modelling as we were packing up the house to prepare it for sale and spending time searching for a smaller place to move into. I’ll therefore leave this log for the moment and the next part will take it from 29th September this year when I finally was able to start work on the model again. Tony
  23. Hello Everyone, I would to join this build group of fellow Medway Longboat builders. I have put my 1:48 scale Longboat on hold so as to better understand the spiling process since the strakes are pre-cut. I had some difficulty with small gaps with light showing through. Following are photos of my build. The build board and keel parts laid out. I have marked the slots in the build board because I got tired of counting them. Had to use tape to hold the guides in, they were loose and would fall out. Keel and stern post ready to join. Stem and Keel. False Keel parts had 1/32" scrape added when attaching to the keel to center them for the rabbit. The long piece glued to the keel. Attaching the Floors to the Top Timbers. Test fitting the frames and Keel. Head on view. Over all as she now stands. More to come. Bob W
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