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Found 186 results

  1. I will start my first build log on this forum with the Nina from Lindberg's Ships of Columbus. I found this kit at hobby lobby on clearance for $8.
  2. I have worked a little on the Nina. Mostly preparing for the next steps. I want to plank the decks and the hull. I started to build a plank stripper, however it did not work so well. The edge was not cut straight and will need to be sanded. I painted the edge black and will sand it on a piece of glass. I also started making rings out of wire. I need about 45 rings on eyebolts for this kit.
  3. Thanks, Chris. I did a search for Nina build logs, and though I couldn't find anything on the Mantua one, there seem to be a few from other companies - https://modelshipworld.com/search/?q=nina - which may be of help to you in your build. You might also be interested in http://nautarch.tamu.edu/shiplab/01George/index.htm which has links to pages that outline just about all the information known of caravels to date, and https://www.amazon.com/Portuguese-caravel-European-shipbuilding-development/dp/B0007BPCV4 - I haven't read this book, so I can't comment on whether it's any good or not. There's also a very good website on the development of caravels that I thought I had bookmarked, but can't find at the moment. If I can locate it, I'll send you the link. OMG! I just realised you're a fellow Ballarat resident! Steven
  4. Thanks Steven for all this wonderful info. I have just ordered the Mantua Nina 1:50 with extra pre stitched sails from CMB. I am a total Columbus freak, and have been since childhood. I have built the Amati Santa Maria 1:50??? but plan on building all 3 of the Mantua vessels. It doesn't appear as though any build logs for the Nina are on here, or anywhere I can find, so I may be the log Guinea Pig for this one! Cheers Chris
  5. Everybody agrees that there is no historically accurate data on what these vessels looked like, specifically. At best, we might have some idea of the type they were, but that's about it. Nevertheless, they just keep on putting out books and model kits of the Nina, the Pinta, and the Santa Maria. The demand just never lets up.
  6. I believe Mamoli is the only manufacturer to produce the Friesland Galleon, at a length of 31" and height of 28". It is a double plank on frame build with many gold color castings. The wooden frame parts are lazer cut plywood. The planking and decking wood are a bit drab in color , typical for mamoli, but are in ample supply. Casting will need some refining to remove selvage and burs , may even require a bit of enamel paint or even some gold leafing. This kit is produced for the advanced model builder and I'm sure experience will come in handy. All kits prove to have inherent flaws in materials and instructions. This may take the better part of the year to complete as I work very slow. MSW has help with so many of my builds in the past, . Thanks to all in MSW for all the help in the past. All my ship builds are donated to auctions to raise funds for local charity groups. Finished kit builds: Artesania Latina: Mare Nostrum, San Francisco II, Mississippi King, Santa Maria, Blue Nose II, Stage Coach 1848, Scottish maid, Jolie bries Mamoli: HMS Beagle, HMS Golden Hind, Rattlesnake, friesland Amati: Xebec, Nina, Pinta Corel: Wasa, HMS Victory Section Scratch Builds: HMS Ark Royal, Half Moon Mantua: Royal Caroline-RC modified with working sails Constucto: Elidir Model shipways: 18th century long boat, Whale boat, Niagara (current build) Kits not started: Mantua: La Couronne, Euromodel: derfflinger M.Shipways: Syren
  7. Ahoy Mates Here's my Nina 1/65 Amati kit just about completed. I only used the bulkheads and keel from the kit. Rest is scratch built. Just working on the clue lines and their coils. Then It's complete except for setting it on it's base. This is the last ship that my late Pickels was around to help me work on it. Should have a new cat in July.
  8. I've been sucked back into the plastic realm due to watching some of incredible plastic models being built on here recently (still need to finish my Syren/Triton/Nina, but that's beside the point ). I was in the hobby store the other day debating what type of primer to apply to my 1/350 Fletcher. I've stayed away from Vallejo due to the experiences that Greg has relayed in his log; the guy in the hobby store (who actually seemed extremely knowledgeable) said that he loved Mr. Surfacer, and used it for all of his work. Other's might chime in if they've used this product. For brass parts.. I picked up a package of 2 small brass rods at Lowe's (in nuts and bolts section) for around 8 bucks, and copied Greg's method of inserting them into wood blocks in the hull. It was extremely easy! (I used a 2-part epoxy to secure the wood blanks into the hull). Alan
  9. Hello from Florida, USA. I am embarking on my second beginning of modelling - work got in the way during the first "start". So, now I have more time to devote to this very interesting hobby. I am a third-generation modeler and have been waiting to do this, it seems like, forever. I do have two small builds behind me - Midwest's "Maine Peapod" which I did in 2004 and my latest, Midwest's "Musgongus Bay Lobster Smack", finished last month. For the Peapod, I had the good fortune of having my father around. Since then he has passed and I had to struggle to finish the Lobster Smack. That is: until I realized that he had left the same exact boat behind. So, I had something to help me - when I ran into problems, I was able to see how he did it I had started Amati's Nina back in the 1990's and never finished it. I don't feel ready for that level of building, so my next boat is Constructo's Elidir (again, a boat that Dad left behind). I think that it will be harder than the others - the instructions are translated and seem skimpier than Midwest's. I've already encountered problems building Billing Boats building slip, due to poor instructions. Do hope to find some help in these forums! Lastly, I have a Boucher Flying Cloud, started by my grandfather in 1930-something. It needs to be finished - definitely not ready for that! (The attached photo is my father's Musgongus Bay Lobster Smack just behind mine. He has better paint job, but I have better oar locks! I used small spade terminal lugs and bent them slightly...) Jan F.
  10. Many years ago when I was working on the Syren, I decided that I wished to have a model ship finished sooner rather than later, as the Syren was going to take a while. There is strong irony in that sentence, but I'll move on. I also wanted to build a wooden model from a kit, as I'd never purchased a wooden ship kit before. The Mini-Mamoli kit of the Nina eventually ended up on the workbench. The start of this project was around 2010 or so. Below is the front of the box complete with dried glue, wood strips and sawdust. I'm going to post the photos I've taken through the years with commentary along the way. I'm posting this log as it is a fun and simple kit, which I think I really will be able to complete soon.
  11. Ahoy Mates I am working on my Amati Nina 1/65 and need to find out what hitch or knot to use for the lashing lines of the deadeyes for the shrouds on this 1492 ship? It has rails on the bulwarks with some cleats,but the lines for the deadeyes are tied around the rails which are mostly without an open end close to use them like a cleat. I have not been able to find anything about hitching lines to a rail. Here's photos of my Nina with the lashing lines going down from the upper deadeye to thru the deck eye bolt for the lower deadeye,and then up and over the side with tape holding the ends. You can see the rails that have space behind them inbetween the frames. I am sure Pickels would have know,but he's busy building in Heaven now. Next month I am going to get a new supervisor in the Shipyard to train in his place. Thanks Keith
  12. Ahoy Mates I hope that next year other wooden ship builders will enter their ships at this Show. I will be back with my Gunboat Philadelphia and the Nina. And will have the Nina at the Oregon Modelers Society IPMS Show this September 21st in Portland,Or.. So plan to be there if you can,please and with a ship to enter. Last year we had 8 wooden ship models entered. They are in a wooden ship category. I know that Pickels was with me this weekend,and loves what he had helped in building. The Nina is his last build. It's not been easy starting back on it,but I am working on it a little every day now. Here's what my competion was in plastic ships at this show. Thanks Keith
  13. Dusek Ship Kits MM02 Santa Maria NEW In 2016 Daniel Dusek bought all rights for producing of all Mamoli and MiniMamoli kits. Since then the kits are released in batches. History What were the ships of the great discovery of the New World like? Tradition always speaks of three caravels, a sort of swift ship with a light hull, several masts and an assortment of sails. Scholars advise that, in reality, Columbus’s fleet consisted of 2 caravels, Nina and Pinta, and of a “Nao”, Santa Maria, a boat with 3 masts, 2 square sails and a lateen one, provided with a foredeck, which makes it belong more to the class of carracks. The strong construction, together with nautical knowledge of the time and with the perception of the great sailor allowed such a great enterprise. The year 1492 is an historical date known all over the world. Technical data Scale 1:106 Length 310 mm Height 255 mm The kit 5 sheets of plans and instruction (english, french, dutch, german) Prefabricated wooden hull 4 sheets of lasercut wood (1 sheet in pear!) round timber for masts and yards Fine-meshed sail cloth All parts of the kit are stored safely and tidily in the box so as to minimise any movement of items within. Let's look deeper at this kit. The Prefabricated wooden hull makes it easy even for beginners to create the fuselage shape in a great small model. All small parts are well stowed away. Also the castings make a very good impression. Let's start with the cleanly lasered wooden boards. First of all, there is the deck of the Santa Maria with all planks pre- lasered in a beautiful pear. And this in a beginner kit. Wonderful! Other boards are laser-cut in beech. But there is nothing wrong with this either. Very very less laser char. All is clean and crisp. And see the dowels for masts and spars. And last but not least, for all those who would like to make sails, a very nice fine-meshed fabric is included. The multilingual manual should make it easy for beginners to build a wonderful little model with a lot of fun. Conclusion With high quality components (where to find pear wood in a "beginner's kit"...) a revised manual and a really attractive price Daniel Dusek leads the Mamoli Mini Kit series into a successful future. This little kit of a classic historic ship is really great. For the beginner, but certainly also for the advanced, who are simply looking for a small, loving intermediate project, this small model promises a lot of fun. Dusek Ship Kits currently lists this model for €70,50, and I think that represents really good value for money for this beginner kit. My sincere thanks go to Daniel Dusek for sending this kit for review here on Model Ship World. To buy, go to your favorite Dusek dealer or directly to http://www.dusekshipkits.com
  14. ***Santa Maria 1492 - Artesania Latina*** Hello shipmates, Before we are getting started with my new buildlog, a short introduction of myself and the ship is in order. I'm a member of this forum for many years, and I live in The Netherlands a small country in Europe. Once we were dominating the world seas by having more ships in the water as a nation then all ships from all countries combined. So ships and shipbuilding runs through the veins so to say. Unfortuately after the big crash of MSW all my photo's and my buildlogs were gone. For a few years I put my hobby asside and concentrated on my family and on my work. At this moment I've found some spare hours to work on my hobby, and I would like to share my new buildlog with you guys and gals. please have a bit patience on my written English, because it's not my native language and so I'll probably make some grammatical mistakes and I appologies upfront... To the project... History The Santa Maria originally named La Gallega, was the largest of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus in his first voyage. Her master and owner was Juan de la Cosa. She was built in Pontevedra, Galicia, in Spain's north-west region. Santa Maria was probably a medium-sized nau (Carrack), about 58ft long on deck, and according to Juan Escalante de Mendoza in 1575, SM was "very little larger than 100 toneladas" (about 100 tons, or tuns). She was the flagship for the expedition aside La Nina and La Pinta, two smaller of the caravel-type ships. Shipwreck With three masts, Santa María was the slowest of Columbus' vessels but performed well in the Atlantic Ocean crossing. Then on the return trip, on 24 December (1492), not having slept for two days, Columbus decided at 11:00 p.m. to lie down to sleep. The night being calm, the steersman also decided to sleep, leaving only a cabin boy to steer the ship, a practice which the admiral had always strictly forbidden. With the boy at the helm, the currents carried the ship onto a sandbank, running her aground off the present-day site of Cap-Haïtien, Haiti. It sank the next day and was lost forever... The build At first, let's inspect the workplace, which is the kitchen table by the way, and the box...and yes, the box on the left is my toolkit and on the right the ship... Everything looks neat and tidy at first glance. The box is well organized and the wooden parts and timber are of a good quality as can be expected from AL. However, the buildmanual turns out to be very dissapointing. A few photo's on one single page and an instruction list is all that's added to the box. The best parts are the two bigger drawings of the rigging and masts which looks very nice doh. The Bulkheads and false keel / keelplate I start by numbering all the bulkheads and parts on the plate. They are all lasercut and I use some sandpaper to remove the burn from the laser. After inspecting a collect all the parts and dry-fit them together to see how good it fits.....it doesn't! After some corrections, the bulkheads fits nicely on the false keel. However I noticed a small warp in the keelplate. I did some further inspection and Yes, it's warped just between bulkhead 12 and 10. This needs to be fixed otherwise I run into some problems later on....I took the keel plate and soaked it in some water. I let it dry between a couple of books with some pressure on the books so the plate was fixed into a flat position. I let it dry for a day and the next day it was straight. I put everything together again and glued the bulkheads into position. The false deck Next step is to place the false deck on top of the bulkheads. Again, the false keel was pre-fabricated and lasercut. I use the small brass nails and glue to fixate the plate on to the bulkheads. I have limited tools and clamps at my posession at this moment, so I use the nails. They will be coverd up later when the final layer of thin wooden strips are placed on top of the false deck. Overhere I use a nail (red circle) to "help" the deck plate a litte bit and guides it into a better position.... After his I placed some blocks to make the bow a bit stronger and sturdier. Now it's time to sand the end of the bulkhead so they are prepared for planking the first layer of the hull. It will be a dual layered or planked hull. I took my time on this process. If done correctly, the beauty of the lines and shape of hull will shown after the planking process. It is also the part were I struggle the most and we'll have to see later on if I made some mistakes or not... So, to be continued soon.... regards, Peter
  15. Outstanding work, Peter !!! You have every reason to be proud of her. Your log has been a joy to follow (which I did in a day and a half). So what's next ... the Nina, and the Pinta ??
  16. Great looking planking. I look forward to getting my kit soon. Now back to working to complete my Nina build. Taking your time and getting it right is a long lasting reward when you look at it years later. Keith
  17. Ahoy Mates Thanks for the kind words. I have had two cats who loved being with me as I work on the models. Precious and Pickels. I have started looking at rescue cats around my area with my sister Arlene. So maybe this spring I will have a new Supervisor in my shipyard. For the time being I can go over to Arlene's and get my cat fix with JD and Guliver. I have this photo next to me now while I start back to work on the Nina. Pickels loved to use it as a pillow while I worked on it.Here's Pickels last build-1/600 USS Iwo Jima LPH-2 Aurora kit for my best friends 70th birthday present. Tim served on the Iwo Jima 1969-1970 Viet Nam and Apollo 13 Recovery. I would imagine that Pickels is now working on the Catboat model we never got to do. RIP my Buddy. Keith
  18. Hello again everyone, I started to write this log about an hour ago and for some reason, it disappeared. So, I'll try again and hope for better results. I started to build this model last December but for selfish reasons didn't begin a log. I did have a couple more medical situations which discouraged my contribution to this site but after some additional surgeries I am feeling much better so I decided to make this post. I worked a little here and a little there on La Nina and little by little I made some results. I am going to treat this log as more of a pictorial by listing my progress by date until I catch up with the present and then finish in normal style. I hope nobody minds. My admiral, Charlene, actually built the hull frame so I'd like to acknowledge her contribution to this build. She is now busily painting the "cross" emblem on the two sails, as at present the mounting of the sails to the two lateen booms is at hand. My next post will begin this story. Best, Jerry
  19. How do you shape the veneers to fit the stem and rest of the keel? Do you just cut them to the rough shape and then glue them on and sand them to the final shape. And how do you find the angle of the veneer nearest to the hull? Do you just eyeball it then cut the veneer to your estimation? That seams hard to me. I was thinking you could take some really thin wire or solder and bend it along corner of the hull and keel. This in theory should give you the rake of the keel. the problem after that would be putting the wire at the right angle when you transfer the rake to the veneer. I was just thinking may be there is a secrete I don't know about.
  20. Ship 2 of my 3 ship collection ! Still working on the Santa Maria and wating on a book to better onderstand rigging so ill start this one whill waiting Wish me luck seem's like an easy ship to build
  21. Roughly where my Nina stands. Am currently working on the ship's boat. Alan
  22. Your Nina is coming along very nice. Although Corel’s 1:130 scale HMS Bounty has been at times frustrating, I am considering Mamoli’s Little Girl in the future. As well as perhaps their 1:100 Flying fish. Not sure I would want to plank something so small.
  23. I'm causally browsing build logs on my lunch break, and decided to provide an update. Back in the 90's I visited a replica of the Nina which made its way to the Oregon coast (Newport) close to my home. I took photos of the ship, one of which showed the interior "ribs" of the ship's boat. I'm going to try and replicate that on this tiny little thing, knowing in advance that that will really be difficult; we'll see how it goes. It would be extremely satisfying to be able to replicate the ribs at this small of a size. The boat has been sawn in half and re-glued/sanded. It's hard to see any seam, thankfully. It actually fits in the space now. The test pieces of wood I applied tung oil to (one sanded almost perfectly smooth, the other sanded with a "normal" fine grit) look identical. Not sure if it was really necessary to have sanded the hull as much as I did, but it was fairly relaxing/fun to do, at any rate.... I think the hull is ready for an application of tung oil. Man that's scary; so much time spent in creating the thing can all be for naught if the finish doesn't turn out well. For my Triton, I'm considering the tung oil/bitumen experiment; and quasi-considering that for this model as well. Not sure if the bitumen will add a lot of effect considering the black walnut "should" be pretty dark with just the initial tung oil application. We'll see what it looks like after a coat of tung.... Alan

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