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  1. Good Evening, I am writing this build log to chronicle my second ship build from Billings Boats, and altogether. I received the ship model as an early birthday gift, and could not wait to get started.
  2. Hello everyone, I was asked to finish this ship on behalf of a fellow shipbuilder who past a few years ago by his daughter. The Hull was completed with a few mistakes here and there. Some repairs were needed to get it as smooth as possible. The deck furnitures were also completed for the most part. They do need some love and attention. Here is a picture of the ship now. Started to work on the rails and discovered a few problems. Repaired Here is the result after the rails have been installed
  3. Hello Fellow Model Ship Builders! I am excited to be embarking on the construction of a model of the Oseberg Viking Ship! This ship was a ceremonial burial ship built around 800-834 AD and was excavated in Oseberg , Norway in 1904-1905. My great grand parents came from Sweden and my wife has significant Norwegian heritage, so with our bit of connection to Scandinavia, I thought this would be a fun model to build.....I also love the lines on these fast-looking Viking boats. I saw the actual Oseberg as a young teenager in the '80s in the museum in Norway, post cards (and entry ticket) from my scrapbook are posted below. I'm going to take my time, and as always I am not the fastest builder due to work and family commitments, but here goes! Wikipedia page on the Oseberg: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oseberg_Ship
  4. For my latest build I have chosen the Billing Warrior 1860, the first British ironclad battleship, which was powered by both steam and sail since those good folks at the Admiralty didn't quite yet trust something that belched smoke. I would have liked to make this a scratch build, but I couldn't find a set of decent plans and the two research books I've purchased don't go to that level of detail on the hull. So, another Billing kit with, as it turns out very poorly done laser cutting - half way through on a good day. Never mind, there are some decent drawings and the usual sparse instructions. She is a monster though and dwarfs the Victory at 1.47 m. Still, at least the hull wasn't copper plated. The box The contents The research books Spot the laser cut Dry fit of keel
  5. Born in Plymouth and brought up in Pompey. 6 generations of Royal Navy on both sides of my family (all mainly Chief POs, ranging from stores to engineers) but I let the side down when I broke the traditions and didn't become a matelot (mainly because I wanted to fly harriers but got diagnosed as colour blind at 11, so that was out, and lost the heart to do anything else RN related!). So.....I became an accountant, via a trip to Uni to get a Marine Engineering degree....what else! Live in "Admiralty House" (now I'm 40 and have my own nice enough to merit the name), prints of HMS Victory and HMS Royal Sovereign adorn the entrance hallway, stairs and my office, so doing all the "right" things. However, I've always wanted to build a big, wooden, model of "Vicky" as a nod to my Naval heritage and all those family members who have served before. Call it my "apology", if you like. So, my Grandad (stoker/engineer, turned Seawolf programme leader post-Navy), then 81, bought me the Billings Boats kit in a "get on with it then cos I want to see it finished" prompt. This was 2 years ago and I'd made some good progress but it stalled what with the general time-constraints of life (work, kids, divorce, re-marriage etc etc) but I want to kick-start it again and get going. Partly prompted by the fact that same Grandad, now 83, went through a tough time recently and I've now taken him in to live with me and my family (as a thank you for looking after me all those years my Dad was away when I was younger). Wish I'd found this site sooner as have been reading with interest some of the other build logs and some of the hints, tips and problems I've faced so far may have been a bit easier to overcome! Anyway, I will start to post photos of the work to date and some of the above issues and then carry on from where I left off. First ever build, so it's not perfect (so please be gentle all you pros) but I've tried to show (mainly Grandad) that despite being a number-cruncher by profession now, there's a real marine engineer (not just the right letters after my name) in there somewhere! Anyway, I hope you enjoy. Cheers, Chris
  6. Back in February, Luekutus started a build log for the Billings Calypso which jogged me into finishing a project that I started probably 10 years ago. I really appreciate that he has planked his, it looks great and I’m looking forward to seeing more! My goal was to build a nice model for the mantel that was a good scale and not a warship. While I’ve done some basic research, my model is not 100% accurate and I’ve taken some artistic license in some areas. The Billings kit is crude by today’s standards but can be spiced up with a bit of detailing and is the best available today in a large scale. The helicopter supplied is AWFUL! I’ve given up on trying to make it look nice and am looking for an after market substitute in 1:48 that’s close. I added some 1:48 welding gas cylinders that look fine and the rope I’ve used is the truly nice stuff from Syren. Most of the trim is Evergreen and a lot of the wood is from my spares stash. Enjoy, Don
  7. Post 1: The Project Normally I wouldn't start a new project when I still have to finish the last one. But I picked this kit up from the local Thriftshop in my new home town, while looking for a nice cupboard to put in the new house. After spotting this old and covered with a fair layer of dust (now discontinued)Billing Boats kit, I quickly checked if all the important bits were present in the box and hurried home with my new prize. The Kit is of a 1:27 scale "Hoogaars" Yacht. Now I think that "Hoogaars" isn't really a household name for most people. But it is where I am from, If one thinks of a traditionally build wooden ship. Its these flatbotomed beaties. The Town where I grew up used to be home to one of the bigger shipbuilding warfs of this part of the Netherlands and her Hoogaars ships were known as far north as Friesland and as far south as southern Belgium. History and Background. Its not entirely understood what the name "Hoogaars" means, the name is known to have been in use since the 16th century. Hoogaarsen are mainly used in the Dutch province of Zeeland (The Old-Zealand). The ships are differentiated from their other flatbotomed colleques by the sharp rise of their bows. The ships hulls have a water droplet shaped bottom hull and traditionally the side strakes are clinker-built. Depending on the shipyard they are rigged *** either Gaff- or Sprit-Rigged. The Hoogaarsen were mainly used for the fishing industry, but also as ferries, cargoships and passenger service. And they are equiped with the characteristic "Swords" that make sailing possible despite the flat botoms. Hoogaarsen were replaced as fishing ships at the end of the 19th century in favor of motorised northsea trawler type ships. During this period there were a couple of examples of hoogaarsen being built with steel hulls and equiped with engines. Some older wooden hoogaarsen were also upgraded. This upgrade didnt turn out as a success however because the wooden hulls were not suited to house a vibrating early petrol engine, and many ships quickly wore out. Luckily the wooden Hoogaarsen were still popular as pleasure yachts and many were built with a cabin and more luxurious outfitting. This is what the ship kit is. The Billing boats Hoogaars is a replica based on a ship that was built in the Warf of the town of Tholen. It was used as a ferry and after a couple of owners it ended up with a Belgian owner. This is when J. Van Beylen, A ship researcher from the Belgian Naval museum, drew the boat in detail and documented the building plans. The real boat, in a sad turn of events, but in a way we ship enthousiasts might have grown accustomed to, it didn't stand the test of time, she burned down after years of neglect. The drawings by J. Van Beylen are the only thing that is left about the boat. As far as I know there are no photographs. After a quick google I found that J. Van Beylen dedicated a small part of a book he wrote, to this particular hoogaars. And the Zeeuwsche library had a copy in its inventory. So I'll be getting that to see if there is any extra information I can find. Contents of the box The contents are remarkebly, complete. Everything was neatly put back into the box. The Spars, rope, fittings, sails, even the scrap bits of ply-wood. The hull is partly finished. There are a couple of detailing parts that are yet to be assembled onto the model. The characteristic clinker Strakes. The building quality is relatively high which makes me suspect that this wasn't someone's first rodeo. Which also makes one wonder why it ended up at the thrift store. One thing that stood out to me, is that the parts are not laser cut. So I'll be heading back to the thrift shop to find myself a small modelers saw. My plan with this project will be to follow the instructions, but I'll be pulling on books and real life examples to add a little bit more detail is the places where the kit might be lacking a little bit. I am very lucky to live within walking distance of a couple of ships that are from the same Shipyard as this model so I'll be photographing them as reference. This project will probably be on the backburner until I finish the current project. But till then I'll be researching the subject. Thanks for reading.
  8. Since other members have posted extensive build reports of this boat kit I will focus primarily on the choices I have made. The main issue of the kit is the scroll parts for the bow and stern which are far too thick. This is the solution I opted for : Some modifications to turn the model into a working rc one : I have also added some 1/24 figures (I will order or make some more in the future): I have finally finished the shields and now I'm going to tackle the oars (also a rather boring and repetitive job). I think that the oars should all have a different length (the midships ones should be shorter than those closer to the bow and stern), although BB do not refer to this in their instructions. Regards, Arjan
  9. This is a Billings Boats kit of the Calypso, I received this kit from a good friend and fellow modeller a few months ago. This is not what I usually call an orphaned kit. It took me two years to finally talk him out of it. I had it stashed away in a closet for a few months waiting it's turn on the building bench. I'm finishing up the Dumas 1955 Chris Craft Cobra and then on to another Billings Boats kit of the Nordkap, which was an orphaned kit whose previous owner had passed away before completing it. I will most likely spend time working on both kits periodically. Now on to the good stuff and the Calypso ahhhh the Siren of the Sea's, she has been beckoning to me for the last two years and her time is growing near. Upon opening the box, I noticed several white printed styrene sheets, which will need to be cut out and finished, wood sheets, and a numerous fitting package, which Billings is known for, they are also known for not including the fitting packages in the kits and making the builder have to purchase them separately. But not this kit, it was included. One thing I did notice is the preformed plastic hull, which I find to be quite thin and light for this size of a model. So, it will require some re-enforcement. I also noticed the 4 sheets of plans were printed on two sheets back and front, which I also don't care for, so I will have to find a Kinko's some where to get additional prints made. Yes, I know Kinko's is defunk so on to an Office Depot. For some this may not both, but for me it is poses a bit of a problem since I like to mount the plans on the wall. This will cause me to have to remove them constantly to check as I go along. I like to check as much as 3-4 steps ahead just to make sure I'm not missing anything. I'm not good at following instructions, I find them more of a suggestion, I'm more of a plans builder. I would not recommend this model kit for a beginner, I would highly recommend they build a few boats before tackling this beast.
  10. Hi all, Just joined the forum. I have a couple of half finished things to finish off, so apologies if I'm not starting from the beginning. First up is my old Cutty Sark model, started in the eighties that was pretty near finished, but I'm now re-rigging. (Next will be my Corel Wasa, that is much less progressed) The model was nearly done, save for some rigging details on the fore mast. However, in order to take it with me to Australia, I took the whole rigging down, so I'm restarting from this point. (Added picture of model some 5 years ago, before packing and transporting to Australia) Just starting on the mizzen now:
  11. I recently came in possession of two models in certain states of, well, being. one is just in a early state of building, and has been in this state since as long as I can remember. At some point I'll start an other log when I come to finish this one. the other is also older then I am and used to hang in my parents home... until it came down. After the unfortunate event she ended up in the attic. After another unfortunate event about a month ago she is now in my workshop, and I hope to restore her to the state I remember. The original build took place around 1973 on board the ship my father was serving his apprenticeship on. With the two models also a pile of picture albums came in which found these two.
  12. I got this kit on Ebay years ago. It was started and abandoned (i believe due some of the hull bulkheads upper deck pieces were broken/ missing). The model’s bulk heads, main deck and front side of the fore castle and the stern panel were put together. since this Billing Boats kit was manufactured in the 1960s (i think), i figure i better do something about it before it disintegrates into dust. The only build log /youtube video I can find about this kid is the one by Frankie Day. The kit doesn’t have the details of modern kit standard, however, it does have a beautiful hull lines, 4 masts and plank walkway between the forecastle and the quarter deck, which are rare subject matter combination. Can’t find much history or details about the kit or the ship it supposedly reepresents. It looks like it is just a generic representation of a Spanish galleon of the period. I plan to build the model as close to the kit enclosed building drawings (two draon one sheet) as possible. Drawing 2 provides impressive number of details/clues. The kit only provide printed gun port lids to be glued onto the finished hull. This simplificatin takes away the prowness of the galleon. I plan to add the main gun ports operning and install half canons to remediate the short coming. The broken hull bulkheads above the quarter deck are copied and glued on using the bulkhead profile from opposite of the hull. The broken head was fixed using left over wood from the kit. Lower fore-castle support beans and deck, Quarter deck support and deck were all cut from the printed sheet and installed.
  13. I'm off on a new build of Billing Boats 1:45 scale model of Jacques Cousteau's research ship Calypso! I've always wanted to build this model ever since I saw it back in the early 1980s but could never seem to find the time (nor the money!). Of course now that I have time (and now that by children are grown and on their own) and more income for fun, I couldn't find the Calypso model anywhere! I read that Billing Boats only make a handful of kits of the Calypso every year and what kits you can find are well over $600 USD! I finally was able to find a model on eBay from a seller whose late father had this unopened kit in storage. When the kit arrived I went through the contents and everything appears to be there and in pristine condition! I'll be going through the instruction manual and studying the assembly illustrations for the next few days. Meanwhile, any words of wisdom or advice from any MSW members on building this kit would be appreciated!
  14. Ahoy! from Snug Harbor Johnny, this is my first build log but not my first build. All (but one) of the models I constructed (ships, planes, rockets in wood, paper or plastic) growing up in the 60s & 70s did not (alas) survive transitioning to adulthood, and my adult non-work activities ranged through a wide variety of Colonial crafts demoed in public with my wife - who got me into 're-enacting' time periods ranging from Renaissance to Edwardian ... but mostly of the 18th & 19th century. Now in semi-retirement, I want to more-or-less finish the old first-issue Billings Wasa that works out (as best as I can compare the model to the original) to about 1:105 scale. The information on the newly-raised warship was in the early stages in those days, so I don't fault the kit for making some assumptions to 'fill in blanks' (which there were a few then) - perhaps influenced by a contemporary model of another Wasa built in the late 18th c. (A 17th c ivory model of the Norwegian Lion - a near contemporary warship to the first Wasa comes much closer to the mark, and could be a 'twin' ... but that's another story.) Here is the aging plan (separated down the middle and slightly misaligned) from Billings, which shows the ship having an 18th c windowed stern cupola, the stern not as high as now known, a forecastle deck and a figure head not as jutting as later restored to the original in a Stockholm museum. In fact, the state of restoration and knowledge of the original (and pictures available on line and in books) is astounding - so I'd like to do at least some 'surgery' to make my model come reasonably close to the original. It will by no means by 'museum quality' or 'dead-on' accurate, but still should be recognized by knowledgable modelers as the Wasa. I anticipate that the effort to undo the forecastle deck (forced by the internal bulkheads in the kit at that time) may not be worth the effort. Or I could be wrong about this and with a little guidance I might chance to undertake it. Ah yes, note the hank of full-sized jute rope in the upper left of the picture, which I made myself on a real rope walk that is one of the crafts I demonstrate at historic houses and fairs. (Other crafts have included book binding, candle dipping /molding, colonial gun making, harpsichord playing - on one of three I built myself - and dancing, of all things ... I was strongly encouraged by my wife to help her start an historic dance group.) So I mat yet build a mini-rope walk for making my own scale rope for ship models. Well, there's the hull - untouched for decades - that was single-planked, and has a slight 'bulge' from the middle bulkhead being just a tad fat as supplied (and can be seen on other vintage build of this kit not corrected by fairing) ... and I did not appreciate the finer points of fairing in those days. I drilled little holes and filled then with round toothpicks to simulate wood pegging (tree nails ?). The modeled rings around the gun ports of the weather deck were done as follows: I modeled one in clay on a piece of glass, then painted successive layers of latex gunk (drying thoroughly between coats) to produce a one-sided rubber mold, which I peeled off the glass and cleaned out. Modeling plaster over the back of the latex mold to support the flimsy latex and then multiple 'copies' of the gunport rings could be made from hard dental plastering the mold - taken out when cured. I did the same for little lion's head for the inside of the gun ports (yet to be made.) More on those gunport later. Here's the stern, and the 'carvings' were modeled as described above - except that due to the complexity, I just slathered wood putty into the mold and slapped it onto the back to set. After all, it will all be painted anyway. But the arrangement of the carvings and size of the stern were what was thought by Billings around 1970. I plan to cut of the top below the feet of the lions and move that piece upward to raise the stern to where it needs to be - as well as correct the relationship to the pair of cupids below ... and many more figures need to be added - another challenge. Now for those gun ports. After cutting them (many are not quite square) I glued false 'decking' below each line of ports to support gun carriages and pieces of wooden dowel I drilled-out so that the 'half-cannons' supplied in the kit would fit into them. I also 'lined' the gun ports with small pieces of wood for a better look. Yeah, I know now that the plank widths are out of scale - they should be half the width - and the pegs are way out of scale ... they are what they are, and they really look OK on the model to the casual observer. Now you can see the 'stanchions' (extensions of the kit bulkheads are fat, but they can be trimmed and additional false stations added. There needs to be a third level in the stern, and raining the stern will provide space for that - but it will won't be exactly like to original ... just closer. I'll have to make the 'coffin-like' doored companionways as well. And there's the darned forecastle deck - most warships (at least drawings of them) before and after do have it this way, and perhaps I'll leave it but add a bulwark plus railing. There would be a lot of nasty cutting to get rid of it, and the deck would definitely show a surgical 'scar'. Under where each mast is to go I've already glued a large block of wood to drill a hole into for the mast. Do I try and mess with it, or just leave it alone? Here are some of the kit fittings. The full cannons leave much to be desired, but the ports on the weather deck already align to the carriages as-is. I can carefully belt sand some off the underside and glue 'wheels' on the outside so there will appear to be a little space underneath the carriage. Yeah, the blocks an deadeyes are plastic - but I bought a bunch of wooden ones to use instead. I'll have to make triangular deadeyes for the shrouds. Those bits in the plastic box are little lion heads cast from a latex mold - a few are flipped over to the flat reverse. Now here's a view with the 'half-cannons' installed, and they look OK - a whole lot better than just painting a black square and drilling a small hole to stick the half-barrels in as the kit suggested. Decals were provided for the lion heads for the open gun ports, and the ones I make with 3-D gold painted lion heads will be a definite improvement ... but I might glue the lids open against the hull. I'm trying to imagine the trouble of trying to fashion hinges that will be covered-up anyway, since almost all will be open. Plenty of guns, yeah, I'm all for that ... maybe its a 'guy' thing to build a warship bristling with cannon (a compensation or wishful thinking?) Here's a close-up of the guns, and they have a natural patina from just sitting around for so long. I know I have a great 'head start' (after a long hiatus) to build on what I have and end-up with a pretty good model. I'm NOT aiming for 'perfection' - 'good enough' is good enough for me. I don't want to put sails on - in fact, I'm considering to build it to the restored state of the original in Stockholm that has the first sections of the masts in place and shrouds/ratlines on them. That would be like some sort of Admiralty or dockyard model - plus the lower masts instead of cut-off (or serrated) 'stubs'. Or I could just do the masts and yards complete with standing rigging. That way the sails and scads of running rigging won't be needed. The third option would be to have just the few sails set that were actually used on the disastrous 'maiden voyage' ... most of the sails were found still in storage when the ship was salvaged. Your comments/suggestions are welcome. Fair sailing! Johnny
  15. Yes, another Bluenose, and yes another new guy to MSW. I have been lurking for awhile and I am at the point of starting my second build, thus the starting of this log. I have a lot of experience with plastic models and have also completed a wood ship (Artesania Latina's Virginia 1819). The ship was an introduction to wood ship building and I have since collected a number future kits as well starting to developing more detailed drawings for future scratch build projects. Like everything I see this as a progression of skill building and challenges so that once I get to stage where I am ready to do a scratch built POF / skeletonized ship, I will be ready for it. Thus why I am staring Bluenose II. The kit (Bluenose II No 600 from Billings Boats) itself is fairly straight forward, mixing laser cut ply and strip wood with plastic, brass and copper. Instruction are very brief at 1 page of description and 11 of diagrams. The kit also has a double side slightly larger than A1 sheet with 1:100 diagrams for rigging, plan and side view. Billings shows this as an advanced beginner and I would agree. You need to have some experience and spend some time looking at other builds and instructions such as those from Shipways to help formulate an approach to building the ship. In general, I will build this using the material provided with a few key exceptions. First, Billing has you build the as 2 separate halves; framing, and planking followed by glueing the 2 halves together once done. The main concern I have for this that the keel ends up being 4mm thick if the planking stops short and just under 8mm if it continues making the scale keel the equivalent of 400mm - 800mm (15" - 31"). Hard to be a fast ship with something that fat under the ship. So the solution is to use one false keel versus the 2 pieces. In addition I will add rabbets and shape the planking so that it blends into the plywood keel. The result should be closer to 200mm (8"). I am not total sure the keel width and so hopeful someone can fill me in on this so I can adjust. The whole thing will be painted so I am really looking for a smooth surface to work with. Second, pictures of the actual ship show a pronounced keel at the bow and all the way to the stern with a deep keel midship. Planking per Billings would have the planks terminate at the edge of the keel. To address this I will add additional strips to the false keel to make it more pronounced and visually look closer to actual ship. While this may not be dimensionally accurate, visual accuracy is my goal here. Third, The above points will have an impact on the deck width. Also problematic is the printed lines for the planks onto the plywood deck as they are out of scale and inconsistent. The solution is to sand the outer edges of the deck. This will lose about 2mm or the equivalent 200mm (4") from the breadth. The alternative is to fir out the frames 1mm on either side. Interested to know what others think of these options. Finally, Wherever possible, I will add missing details, replace plastic parts with wood and rig the ship closer to the real ship. I like the challenge presented in working at the smaller scale and seeing if I can bring the same level of detail that I have on my plastic work to that of wood. It might be said, Why not invest in plans or a better ship kit to gain the accuracy and this makes sense however this is effort that I am saving for future projects so the goal here is to build and replace in areas that are relatively straight forward while not expending unnecessary effort on what is essential a project ship. I appreciate any feedback and thoughts on this project. Don't hesitate to call like it is, I have thick skin and as said above, this is not necessarily about making the perfect display ship, but about learning new skills and getting better at the craft. Sincerely, Gord
  16. After all the hyjinks with the Jylland I remembered I had another Billings Boats model in the cabinet of doom. Started 25-30 years ago on a kitchen table it had been set aside due to issues (mostly created by me) that I didn't know how to proceed with. I pulled the box out and bare bones inner hull assembly. A mixed media kit (as Billings are apt to be) but a smart looking ship. I shouldn't but decided to do a parallel build with the Jylland. The issues that had stopped me where 4 fold: 1. I had clamped the keel so hard I had introduced a rather severe hogging. 2. While the bulkheads where perpendicular to the keel they had 'variations' left to right. 3. The deck (I did add a false deck) was not entirely level (see above). 4. I didn't know how to affix the planking to the forward inner stem. They were supposed to be glued onto the inner stem, then sanded to allow the outer (visible) stem to be affixed. So....first off was the keel. I removed the existing one and introduced a nice straight one. This didn't allow all the bulkheads to seat but that will be handled as I plank. I have high hopes for this one. Largely to be built out of the box. The plastic pieces give me pause but I will use this as test subject to see how well I can get them integrated visually. -Mark
  17. Hi All, After having couple speed build videos completed on my YouTube channel, I got my first sponsored model kit, the BB605 RCMP St.Roch 1:72 scale from Billing Boats. This was an advanced beginner kit and should be very straightforward. The plan was good but the instructions could be better. The kit was well packaged and so far I did NOT see anything missing. I will keep the build log coming and as usual to film the entire build process and upload to YouTube after done. Hopefully, my build log and final video can provide some help to anyone who likes to build the legendary boat model. Thank you and good luck building!
  18. This model was gifted to me from a fellow veteran who has since passed away from cancer, I figure that the kit is around 30 years old but it has good bones. First thing is to strip off the old deck and replace with 1/32 plywood then mark it up to start planking the deck
  19. Started my new build, the Mayflower by Billing Boats. I will try to follow a better format with this build log. Below are the first photos of my build. In the bottom, photo, are items #2 and #3 bulkheads or a frames? They appear to be frames while #1 is a bulkhead. Am I missing something???
  20. Now Trying to remember: After many holidays in Denmark - It was my wish to build one of these little nice fishing boats which one can see in all harbours of the West coast of Denmark Cheers Steffen I hope my work looks like this afterwards :
  21. hi guys , welcome to my build diary for my first build , started the begining of october 2018 so i've made a bit of progress already , a few mistakes but nothing i couldnt overcome , and a lot of learning of new techniques too , any advise is greatly appreciated as im a newbie to the hobby
  22. My second Billings boat, in fact second ever wooden model. Started May 202, I don't have huge amounts of free time to work on her, so it's sporadic progress. So far the hull is planked and almost ready for painting, but in parallel I've been working on the wheelhouse. My impressions of the kit aren't all positive and it is clear this one came from the Chinese factory. The wood quality was a lot better when I tackled Smit Rotterdam about 20 yrs ago. The deck planks were missing - but I filled in an RMA form on Billings' web site and received 25 0.8*5mm mahogany planks a few days later. Excellent service!! I did gain 25 2*2mm strips that obviously had been mistakenly put in as the deck planks. I'm trying to incorporate the bonus wood where I can, to add detail. The plans are adequate, but the build instructions are 'the helicopter view' and not a lot of use for the beginner like me. More photos to follow
  23. A gift from my wife - I started this one a couple of years ago, I've added a little bit of new technology by printing out some of the parts with a 3D printer. Almost done the hull then off to the rigging. Most kits do not come with the fancy gold trim so I modeled my own and printed them up. Like they say - good from far - far from good. I still have lots to learn but I'm having a good time.
  24. Well,the big box arrived yesterday,and,although I'm not supposed to start this model before I've got my new workshop,I just couldn't resist making a start! This kit may not be the best as far as some people are concerned,but a 1:75 scale Victory for £260 is worth a try! Instructions are a bit vague,but you just have to sit down and study the pictures for a while. The wooden parts all seem to be very good quality,and fit together nicely so far. After the first day I had the main bulkheads in place,and also the lower deck,which I am planking today. First 2 pictures are a bit blurred,as I've just realised I still had my camera set up for taking photo's of the moon through my telescope,but it's all sorted now! I haven't got a building slip,but have purchased a keel clamp which is already proving to be very helpful in turning the ship round easily. More pics to follow as I progress,and I would welcome any input from anyone who has built this model.
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