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  1. This whole story began as I got the Billing boat kit of the Colin Archer as a birthday present in the beginning of January. Eager and without any idea of what I was getting myself into I carried the box down to my little den in the basement where the magic is supposed to happen. A box of plywood will somehow be transformed into a magnificent piece of naval history. Or that's my initial plan anyways. I have to say at this point that previous experience with any build kits has been blobs of glue with pieces of a plastic aeroplane hidden inside and an occasional successful Lego car. All this means that you should expect horrible errors but hopefully with small successes sprinkled in for good measure. So - lets get the log started. Picture of box: Instead of the content of the kit, which I didn’t take a picture of, here’s an overview of the dry dock area. No need to worry about the place getting dirty, but a horrible place to loose stuff on the floor as it consists of cobblestones and sand. The kit is not a standard keel and bulkhead, but rather two halves which after planking should form the complete hull. I used some tiny angle irons and paper clips to help get the bulkheads straight: I will go back and forth between port and starboard side for the images, so don't be confused. After sanding and shaping the bulkheads the next up was the planking. Any information on how to perform this task was almost non-existent in the instruction manual, so I went with my gut feeling. I have to admit that at certain times I felt that I might have confused gut feeling with stomach flue - I was not at all sure I was doing the right thing. For those who have never seen the elaborate instructions Billing Boats provide for planking the hull on a beginners set - here it is in all its glory. In the next schematic the whole hull was planked and sanded. 5 planks down - so far so good. And almost immediately after I hit a block in the road. The hull shape changed so rapidly that I had no chance whatsoever to bend the planke to follow the last one. At this point I decided that if the plank won't bend to my wishes - I'll have to bend to the planks. I decided to put the next plank where it fell naturally. I've later seen pictures of other builds which seem to do the same thing. Next up was filling the void with planks which actually was easier that I initially thought it would be. The last plank ended up being too narow for my liking so instead I joined two planks before gluing them into place. Some of the tapered planks had some difficulties with staying in place so I used some helping bits while the glue cured. n
  2. Last summer I got a Billings 100 scale kit of the Bluenose. My wife expressed an interest in having a model of a schooner so we did some on-line shopping and ordered the kit. It took some time but finally came last June. Laser cut parts were excellent and easy to remove from the wood. Plastic parts remind me of car kits of the '60's. So much more detail in today's extrusions. Nevertheless I used most of them. Planking the hull was a lengthy process as it is impossible to pin the wood to the bulkheads without pre-drilling the holes. Not being an expert at this kind of building I followed the general method of planking the hull but with the pieces being so small (1/8" x 1/16" roughly) it was difficult to taper them. So in some areas a separate filler piece was shaped and inserted. Then as the hull was sanded smooth I used ACC in some of the gaps and let the sanding dust fill them in. It worked quite well. The kit instructions were less than desirable. Numbers in some of the drawings indicated what some of the standing and running rigging were but there were no corresponding numbers for some lines in other views making it difficult to determine where the lines should go. But with some on-line investigation Most of the work was able to get done. We decided that the sails would be furled. Kit material was way to heavy and thick for the scale of the model unless it was to be built in full sail. Even then, doing the necessary folding of the edges, etc would have been very burdensome and time consuming. Probably not the way most furled sails would be done but the effect was good for this build was to use single ply facial tissue. I superglued the edges of the material sufficient to allow a pin hole to be punched through about every half inch for tying the sails to the booms. For the jib sails, I made small brass wire loops, ran them through the holes and closed them up. Thread was then run through each loop. This allowed the sail to be bunched up in front. The rest was tied off. Here are a couple of photos of the work in progress and the final result which we are generally pleased with. The deck pieces were also laser cut but had no lines for planking. I drew lines with a fine drawing pen and then coated the deck with clear polyethylene. I made a jig out of sheet plastic and cut two holes the size of the deadeyes. In between I cut a slot. The deadeyes were put in the holes with the pre-drilled thread holes aligned and then threaded them. Using a jig assured that all of them would be the same. Two jigs were made because the deadeyes were of two sizes. The shrouds were put in place first and ratlines were individually tied with clove hitches and secured with ACC. Then the ends were cut off. In the photo above the booms were raised but were lowered in the final build with furled sails. I'm sure there is plenty to pick apart by those of you who are a lot more expert at model boat building than I am. So go easy on the criticism, although it will be graciously accepted. Here's a 1/25 scale model of a piece of fire apparatus that is more my type of building. It is a combination of sheet plastic, sheet brass, resin castings and is scratch built except for the tires and wheels. It represents a 1954 Maxim 750 gpm pumper. The real one is still around and was photographed and measured for the build.
  3. back in the day when I built my first wooden ship, the Nordkap, I happened onto pictures of this model. noticing how closely she resembled the Nordkap, the idea was burned into my mind to build her one day. I have some pictures of the finished model.......I've adapted through time, the knack of building, using pictures to guide me. even in regards to the Nordkap, I have never seen any actual pictures of these ships.........I've been told that the Nordkap was a real vessel........the origin of the name means North Cape. finding information to confirm that this was an early Billing's offering was hard to come by.......even my friend Tom was unsure about it. so, all the while I was building the Nordkap, I would take stabs at finding information about the model. the folly of a lost opportunity was later realized, when I was experimenting with parts panels from other model kits.........that the hull parts could be replicated from them, creating other hulls to outfit differently, creating other vessels. it was lost anyway.........there were no parts panels to save, since all the bulkhead parts were pre-cut out, so it seemed. all of the bulkhead parts had these characteristic holes in them, as if they were stapled to a board or pad and cut out. I should mention that this was an old kit, produced well before laser cutting came into the picture. a few of these older kit have been built on MSW......some before the great crash, gone and never to be seen again. this past Christmas was very good to me.....the admiral got me another Nordkap kit. this one was much older....by how much I can't really say. the significant sign that the kit was older, was in regards to the wood used to print the parts....not being laser cut either. again I found it odd that the bulkhead parts were all pre cut out.......right along with the same characteristic staple holes, strangely it seemed, in the same places in the wood. Neither kit came with the fitting hardware, as this was sold separately....the norm of the early Billing Boats kit. I have a thread in the nautical forum that will explain the two kit further: it seems like such strange luck that Billing Boats added the Nordkap fittings kit to their product listings. in the beginning, this was my biggest problem.......I didn't have the fittings for it. by the time I had the hull planked, they were comm'in out of my ears!....Harold found his kit, and I had gotten one {or a reasonable facsimile} from Tom! took a while to use them up.........they were quite handy I enjoy old kits........plastic, wood.... no matter. dunno.....I think it's kinda nostalgic to assemble something...........kinda like finding the old bones, and then put the dinosaur together. I also like to find out the history of things....although for this model, it seemed like pull'in teeth. well low 'n behold........some searching yesterday pulled up some interesting stuff. I can confirm that "yes Virginia, Billing's did make the kit.........not one, but two! it all started with these sites.... https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=94284&p=1 http://www.modellbau-web.de/galerie/progress/progress.html I have some of these pictures.........originally, I thought I had gotten them from the Hull Motor Boat Group website. Billing's carried a junior version of the vessel in !:60 scale: it comes in a blue box as well and a 1:50 scale kit, Nr101 I did see another vessel that looks similar....a big difference was that the cabin structure was all the way back to the stern. an even better turn of events, was that I was able to find the main sheet diagrams {front and back}. a lot of this info was dated 1978........the model or kit was sold and long gone. I will venture to say that these kits were likely sold in 1950 / 1960.....of course, this is my best guess. as with the Nordkap, I hope to be able to come up with a worthy model. I was so green back then.......but there were plenty of folks here that helped me along the way. I hope you enjoy this log as much as I will creating it
  4. I visited the VasaMuseet in August 2015 and was inspired to buy the Billing Boats kit while at the museum. It's the second model ship I've built, the first being the Billing Boat's Bounty about 10 years ago. I've been building and modifying the kit, and instead of writing another step by step build log that would duplicate very good material written by Nazgul, I decided to keep this build log fairly brief, featuring some of the things that I did that might help other "first time" builders. This first pic is of the keel, frames and decks. I used PVA glue to set the frames at right angles because I wanted time to make "tweaks" and get them exactly square. Cyano is great for some things, but sets too quickly and gives little opportunity for "tuning" the fit. The plywood decks were fixed with PVA. The upper section plywood "planking" pieces were fixed using Cyano and spray accelerator, starting at the stern and working towards the front a couple of frames at a time.
  5. tWell I have almost finished my Cheerful build after a few years and wanted to start something that I could build relatively quickly and more importantly relaxing before embarking on my next 'big' build. I bought this kit a year or so ago as a cheap bargain. Now we all know the anticipation and exictment we get from opening the box for the first time-- well you aren't going to get it from this
  6. There we go... 10 months or so. The kit turned out to be unusable, so the build is about 90% scratch.
  7. I started this kit just after Christmas, although I didn't get this as a gift. this is a reissue kit.....I've never seen the older version, but this version looks to be of good quality. I did find a couple of small flaws in it, but nothing to go ballistic over.......they were quite easy to repair. the build starts as a split keel design, numbering the pairs of ribs was a bit of a challenge........the rib layout diagram was different than the laser cut part's panels. once I figured it out, it went much better. I will try to narrate some of the missing text, but if you'd like to read the entire build as it stands so far, you can go here: http://wenzelswharf.wordpress.com/2012/12/30/billings-america-a-172-scale-kit/ there is much more text here than I could ever put into any site.....without seeming long winded, of course. this is where the first problem surfaced.....one of the ribs was nicked by the saw and caused an edge to be flattened. the fix was to cement a piece of basswood onto the offended area and sand it to shape. on the 30th od December, the numbering, fitting and subsequent assembly of the keel halves began. they supply a nice board to assemble the halves on, but I have a large length of pine board, that worked even better......more than enough room to do both sides at the smae time. this picture gives you a good idea as to how large this pine board is. in this next picture, I will show the repaired rib.....I'm certain you can see which one.
  8. Having completed HMS Cruiser and HMS Snake I decided I needed a break from Rigging😕 and having seen Jack P's build log I have decided to try the Oseberg. After an initial confusion at finding that the laser cut frames were arranged in a different pattern to the diagram in the plans I have set to it and started the keel. I have decided to stain the wood dark mahogany and have stained the frame and planks with two initial coats. I have mahogany veneer to cover exposed plywood edges, but otherwise will be using the wood supplied Photos to follow
  9. Starting my very first model build. Like most newbies, I am sure that I started with a build that is well above my abilities. I am OCD and tend to get lost in the details, but I usually can work my way through anything I put my mind to. That being said, I have started and managed to get the framework completed (with a few errors) and layed down my decking. The kit as supplied seems to be decent quality although I did have a few warped frames and some delamination issues on the base for the decking. At the moment my plans for this build are to go with the weathered rustic look rather than the shiny new look. When decking, I chose to darken the seams by running a pencil along each board, but obviously it didn't really show all that well. My rookie mistake is the sizing and joint spacing are all over the map. Next build, I will plan the seams better I chose a medium walnut stain and the nail marks were just a sharpie. Once I shellac and seal the deck I will tackle the dreaded planking. I have looked at a few other builds and seen some awesome tips and tricks
  10. Hello everyone, I was asked to finish this ship on behalf of a fellow shipbuilder who past a few years ago by his daughter. The Hull was completed with a few mistakes here and there. Some repairs were needed to get it as smooth as possible. The deck furnitures were also completed for the most part. They do need some love and attention. Here is a picture of the ship now. Started to work on the rails and discovered a few problems. Repaired Here is the result after the rails have been installed
  11. Hi all,i have finally decided to start a build log and hope my limited computer skills wont let me down but doing is the best way to learn.Victory will be my 3rd build and although i havent finished my CC Cruiser im at the rigging and will use it for a change now and again (excuse to leave it and start Victory) .My 1st kit was a Billings BLUENOSE 11 about 3 years ago to see if a 35 year break from building 100s of plastic kits had killed my modeling desire.They say you go back to your childhood ,and thats certainly the case with me ,i now have a fair bit of spare time and intend to spend most of it modeling .I found MSW a great help in my previous 2 builds and looking over the billings instructions i will certainly need a lot of help on this one as well .So i thought id start this log in good time before i get into difficulties. Part of the reason for buying the billings victory (apart from cost) is that i want to experiment with different woods and use a natural finish where possible without paint .Tried it to a limited extent on my cruiser and learned enough to want to take it a stage further and im hoping there are enough like minded experts on this site to keep me right and point me in the right direction, im open to all suggestions / opinions / suggestions /critisms.Illnow try to put on a few pictures and hope it works, i hope to here from you all. photos of new workplace and progress so far and neglected Cruiser
  12. This is my 1st attempt at a build log and my 1st real attempt at building a model. The Bluenose and the Bluenose II are part of my culture - something I've been aware of for most of my life. The kit seems suitable for a first build - not too expensive, lots of modellers around who have built some version of the boat, simpler rigging and so on. This particular kit differs from most of the kits I've seen in that the hull is built in 2 halves which are planked before the halves are glues together. I expect that will simplify the planking process though I suppose it will introduce some challenge itself. Doug
  13. Hi all, I undertook a project three ( was it really?) years ago to finish off a model of Norske Lowe for the same guy who I finished off the Mississippi Riverboat a while ago. His father died before completing both models, so he asked if I could do it for his family as a keepsake. The old guy was a fair to middling modeller, so I don't have a real lot of "Re-do's" on it, but there are some areas I'll tidy up a bit. There are several broken pieces, mostly masts, which I'll re-make. Unfortunately, he had little idea of the sequence of rigging a model - the sharp (or even not-so sharp) eyed among you will relaize that there is virtually NO Standing Rigging, but most of the sails have already been fitted. This will be a bit of a nuisance. Here are the BEFORE pics : Danny
  14. Hi, 10 years ago, my father-in-law passed away. He was part way through building the Billing Boat Seeadler and after sitting on the shelf for many years, my mother-in-law has asked me to complete the model. The only box left is the fittings box and this has "471 Seeadler" printed on it. I've had a look at where he was up to and he was at the rigging stage. The kit no longer has the stays. Masts are in place, but the stays are gone. Rudder is also missing. There is some rigging done, but no rigging line left to complete. There is an instruction book, although different to the model I'm now working on. The instruction book has a raised deck at the front and end of the boats; mine are flat. Hoping that someone who has built this model, or someone in touch with Billing Boats may assist me to complete the model: - The plan book that I have has a materials list that says there were 4 plans/3 pieces. I've got the big fold-out plan, but not the detailed instructions on how to put my model together, and the parts that I've got to work with don't make sense with these plans. The top of the pages are marked 470 and suspect mine is a 471 version. Is there somewhere that I can I download another set of plans? Or, can someone PM them to me? - I need to get a set of spars for the kit, but don't know where to buy them from. Alternatively, I can buy some dowel and sand down to size and if so, any suggestions on how best to do this? - Was the rudder pre-cut in the kit? If so, where might I purchase one? Any advice on making one from brass? - The materials list indicates 4 rolls of thread for running rigging and 2 for standing rigging. All mine are missing. What colour and size are these? I should be able to get these from my local hobby shop. - The instructions say that a sail kit is available. As I don't have access to a sewing machine, where could I purchase a sail kit? Further complicating my quest to finish this model, I'm in Australia and the Australian Billing Boats distributor shut shop a week ago. Thanks in advance for your assistance. David
  15. Hello and welcome to my build of HMS Bounty by billings boats 1:50 scale This is my second build the first being HMS Victory by Mantua Panart
  16. Hi, I have started this kit in 1994. At that time I was used to do some plastic modeling (aircraft, tanks) mostly in 1/72, some RC cars and wooden sailing planes. Also, at that time I took the contents of the kit as they were without judgment. I built the keel and the bulkheads, planked the deck, painted the waterways and did most of the planking of the hull. This was done by December 1998. Then it sat on shelves and tables (always in my vicinity making me feel guilty) for around 12 years when I decided to pick it up and finish the planking of the hull. By that time I saw that the hull is warped, but there was no way to correct this at that point without having to rebuild the whole thing. Another 3 years later, last summer, I decided to start working on it again. I did some research, joined this forum and drilled the holes fort he masts. Then it sat on my desk again… Around two months ago I have taken up work again. I started with creating some space where I can work. This helped ;-). Again I did some research and made some decisions: There are some building mistakes I made early on (2 decades ago). The result is that the build is not quite like I would have liked it to be. Examples are the warped hull and the planking to which I will get back later on. I have decided to go on with what I have so far. I will try to make the best out of it, but I will not rebuild anything. The kit is very limited. The instructions are abysmal, a number of parts are made from plastic and not very detailed and on a number of accounts the drawings are just plain wrong, as is the color scheme. I have decided to just enjoy this build for what it is and not be too strict about historic correctness. Still I will use the information at my disposal to correct the kit where I feel comfortable that this is done relatively easily (this is my first build after all). Examples are the colors and the placement of some deck structures. Picture 1: looking at the hull from front to aft you can see that the hull is warped. Looking at it any other way this is not so apparent however. I have decided to leave it like it is. Picture 2: planking was done 16 years ago and 3 years ago (the newer part is still light of color). Picture 3: planking mistake at the bow: somehow 16 years ago I planked onto the center keel as it was. No word about bearding lines or rabbets in my kit’s instructions… Since I am going to fill and paint the hull I think I can fix this with a Dremel and some filler. I’ll save that for later. First I want to get the deck, waterways and stanchions, etc. in shape. What worries me a bit is all the nails in the hull. I remember it was great fun planking using a dot of wood glue and fixing the plank with little nails (like in the instructions) because it added to the sense of "building" something (of wood). However I am not sure what I am going to do to make sure one does not see the nails through the paint as some most heads have not been sunken into the wood (this would split the planks).
  17. The Krabbenkutter - a crab fishing boat - will be my 3rd build. The other two are still in process but I want to reinforce what I’ve learned at each stage by repeating the steps and trying out alternatives. This model came to me as a old reclaimed closet kit. It appears to be complete though the boxes were in a bit rough state. Given that it is likely 20 or 30 years old, most of the thin sheet parts are simply printed on the boards - lots of careful sawing in the future to get the parts out. A lot less fun that the laser-cut model I started with! One attraction of this boat was the hull shape. The sleek shape of the Bluenose II (my 1st 2 builds in process) is in contrast the rounded stern and bulky hull of the Krabbenkutter. Also the scale of 1:30 is quite a change from the 1:100 Bluenose I started with. Possibly easier fro my clumsy fingers. My intended theme in this build log is the choices I debate with myself. I’ve done some reading, reviewed various build logs and done some of these things twice before. What worked , what might work better, what new challenges and problems appear. I expect progress on this build will be slow as it is competing for limited resources (me!) with the others. So with some trepidation I start my 3rd kit and 3rd log. Doug
  18. Having accidentally deleted the previous posts, this is a new start. Over 70 years ago, I thought that the Dragon had the most beautiful lines of modern sailboats, and my opinion hasn't changed since. Sure, there were many boats that caught my attention from 8 meters to J boats, but to me, the Dragon had the lines of a classic sailboat before rating rules dictated changes such as plumb bows, reversed transoms, etc. I've sailed and raced a Penguin, Flatty (Geery 18), Coronado 15, Lightning, Soling, 26' sloop (Halliday) and Cal 40 but never a Dragon. Building the model is my vicarious way of gaining that experience. My last model, HMS Victory was a six year adventure, but at 83, another long project doesn't seem to make sense (I'd like to see the end result). There are only a few Dragon models on MSW. Cap'n Bob pleased his wife with a second build, 1:48 scale and Dee-Dee recorded a brief but detailed version of the hull. Borge used the Billing kit to build a cruising version with fine detail and exquisite metal work. I haven't the experience to replicate Borge's metal work, nor are metal lathes, drill presses, etc. considered proper decor in our den/office (condo). I've had a Billing Dragon kit for 20 or more years and it supplied the basics for my build. More on the kit quality later. The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker (Norway) in 1929, gaining world wide appreciation as well as Olympic Games status. Specifications are a fractional sloop rig (Bermuda rig), overall length of 29.17' (8.89m),displacement of 3740 lb. (1696 Kg.), molded finn keel of 2200 lb. (998 Kg.) and an upwind sail area of 286 sq.ft. Other designs with similar sail areas include the Star, Etchells 22 and 5.5 M class. The venerable Star boat carries about the same sail area for it's 22.9' (6.92m) hull and less than half the displacement. Star. The 5.5 M was designed as a developmental class as a slightly smaller and less expensive alternative to the 6 meter, at 31' (9.5m) displacing 3700 - 4400 lb. 5.5 M The Etchells 22 is perhaps the most similar design to the Dragon. Designed in 1966, the Etchells has an overall length of 30'6" (9.3m), displacement of 3324 lb. (about 400 lb. less than a Dragon) along with a finn bulbus keel and a reverse transome. The sail plan is very similar to the Dragon noting the location of the fore stay in the on deck photo. Next, the kit and beginning of the build. Cheers, Gil
  19. Ahoy Gents Here is a fresh build I went to my vast stash pile and rooted this one up I had this kit since 1962 one of Billing boats first kits the Crabincutter was the first kit. I decided it is best to start this one to finish the wood in the kit is starting to dry out if I let this kit sit another few more years the wood will crumble way. Thus far in the construction the keel and formers are dry fitted and trimmed finally the structure is glued together and let dry 24 hours next will be the tedious planking. My wife loves this one so you got to keep mama happy. Frankie Day
  20. I started this build over a year ago but what with one thing or another, I have made only a very limited amount of progress with it. Brain injury sure introduces a bunch more challenges! Anyhow, I have the two hull halves about ready to begin planking. Billings directs that they should be planked separately, then the two halves be stuck together. In the meantime; While I experiment with plank bending (accompanied by the frequent discarding of broken planks) ; I fight with myself over rebelling - glue the two halves together now, then plank the entire thing. I really would like to hear recommendations one way or the other, from those of you who know better! ( Given My lack of experience,This clearly includes all of you)! Help please!
  21. Review of Billing Boats' Colin Archer (BB606). Approx $100 USD kit. http://www.billingboats.com/da/20/2/boats/the-beginner/P-bb606-colin-archer.html The Colin Archer is a beautiful Norwegian rescue ship, and I had the privilege to help a friend renovate such a (full size) ship in Malaysia a few years ago. Main parts from laser cut plywood. Planking from balsa wood and mahogany(?). Masts from cheap softwood. Some parts from brass, but most parts like anchor, cleats, deadeyes, etc from plastic and softwood. No die cast metal parts. A few parts missing (forgivable), but a few parts like rudder handle shown in diagrams not included and not even listed (unforgivable). Marketed for beginners, but severely lacking in instructions to be easy for a beginner. I would say that kits like this is the reason beginners give up this hobby without even getting started. Its just feels overwhelming to look at all the parts and not be given adequate instructions on how to put the ship together. The actual process of building the ship is not hard at all, and a nice pleasure, once you know how to do it. If not, be prepared to spend hours on the Internet looking at old pictures of this ship. Kits like this have a potential to teach a lot of interesting things about ships, shipbuilding, sailing, and general history. A very easy lock-in of a new customer to come back for more ships, so I think it is very counter productive to have them lacking like this. For me (49 yrs, lots of practical experience of building various stuff, including model ships) its was fairly easy and fun to put it together. But as I said, for the average person it can quickly become a headache. Not recommended. Quality of parts slightly too low to be really enjoyable.
  22. Now Trying to remember: After many holidays in Denmark - It was my wish to build one of these little nice fishing boats which one can see in all harbours of the West coast of Denmark Cheers Steffen I hope my work looks like this afterwards :
  23. The startline of my third build The Andrea Gail from the film The Perfect Storm came as a surprise when the chairman of our model club told me he took a try with modelship building in wood but ended with a frustrating end and wanted to get it of his hands I told him immediately that I would take it home and see what I could do and that I can keep it. So when I got home I could not ressist taking a look at it and realised I had to take it apart and start all over making sure that the hull is nice and straight and go from there. The next day I spended it taking it apart getting the glue off and sanding everything to its original state and glue the hull back together again. I am excited to take this challange and to learn more about this awesome hobby
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