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  1. Greetings to all. I started the Billings Vasa about 8 months ago and it's taken me until now to get my act together and do a build log. Matti has done such a detailed job with his that I wasn't sure there was anything more for me to contribute, but I have done some things slightly differently from him, so maybe the comparison will be useful. This is my second wooden ship model - the first was the Corel HMS Bellona, which I did 14 years ago. I visited the Vasa museum when I was a child back in the early 1970s, which was a wonderful experience that stuck with me, and I always wanted to build a model of it. Also I also grew up painting a lot of fantasy miniatures and the idea of painting so many sculptures on a ship was very appealing. So last December I started the project. A bit about the kit, just to add to the information already posted by the other folks building it. All in all it's a decent kit. The hull shape is quite accurate, and I'm very happy with the plastic sculptures - easy to shape and to paint, and reasonably accurate given the constraints of building a kit to a price point. That having been said, I don't think it's a good choice if you don't have modeling experience. The instructions are, to put it kindly, spartan, and the full scale plans are minimal, if accurate. The strip wood provided with the kit isn't all that good, even for a kit (very soft and with a tendency to split), and the hull planking in particular is out of scale. The gun port design is very poorly thought out and in my opinion just unacceptable for a kit of this cost. The laser cutting of parts is nice, but the plywood sheets aren't always well glued and can de-laminate. Most challenging so far has been that the part manifest for the laser cut sheets doesn't match the sheets themselves, so you have to go on a bit of a treasure hunting expedition to match up numbers with shapes. As I write this, all of these things make it sound like the kit is to be avoided, but it's actually not that bad; you just need to understand what you are getting into. The most important part for me was hull shape and sculpture accuracy; I enjoy scratch-building things and solving design problems, so for me addressing the kit's shortcomings have just been part of the enjoyment of the project. So on to some photographs. This set shows a sheet of laser cut parts for the hull structure. The kit is single layer plank, which is challenging because you can't fix hull shape mistakes as easily as with double layer. But the nice part is when you're done planking, you don't have to start a second layer so it ends up being faster if you're accurate. Here's one of the laser-cut sheets with some of the hull bulkheads. Easy enough to cut out with an x-acto knife, but you have to be sure to completely scribe the other side or you'll get splits in the wood. This is the keel and bulkheads glued together. The keel comes in three parts which is actually a good thing since it's less likely to be warped. And this is a close-up of the bulkheads with the pedestals for the mast glued in place. More later...
  2. So here we go! This is a model I built way back in my teens. I found it last week when I cleaned out my father's garage. It's been knocked about but it is in better condition than I thought, although there is 20 years of garage dust and spider nests on it. The kit was a very basic one and I have no idea who made it back in the mid 70s. I made all the little details myself and felt quite proud of it. (still am... ) I'm going to renovate it (I got the go ahead for a restoration log from the community at the "New Member Introduction) and at the same time upgrade it and add things to it that I did not have the money or skills to do when I was a kid. There is no grand plan at the moment and I guess I'll think of things to fix as I go along. First order of the day is a thorough cleaning! In order to get it home, I had to lower the masts. They had come loose anyhow, as had a lot of the smaller items on deck. But the easiest way to do this is to disassemble it as much as possible and after that see what needs to be done. I want to keep many of the original details for senitmental reasons, even if I could replace them with better things now, but some things irked me even back then. Things like the wooden beads I had to use since I could not afford "real" blocks, the crappy anchors I soldered from some wire hangers, the lack of oars in the dingies, and so on. We'll see where it all ends up. I also have to get hold of plans and pictures to work from. Any tips are welcome. I'll be looking for some inspiration on other Bluenose builds here as well. It will be slow work since I have a lot of other things to do, but it will be nice to have something to relax with from time to time.
  3. Hello all; I'm new to MSW but have been working on the Cutty for about 15 months now. I am also working on the US brig Niagara, and just now learning how to post. Hope to have some pictures up soon. Bob
  4. I've wanted to build the Victory for some time now and it is certainly the largest build I have attempted to date. I previously built the USS Constitution and a clipper whose name I forget and I have an AL King of Mississippi build in progress so I have some experience. All that of is course is no guarantee that things won't go horribly wrong at times! These are the reference works I will be using, which is another way of saying that I may not follow the Billing instructions (if indeed that is possible given their chronic inadequacy) *McKay, John (2000) The 100-Gun Ship Victory (Comprehensive line drawings of pretty much everything) *Julier, Keith (2004) The New Period Ship Handbook (Has a whole chapter on building the Victory, albeit based on the Jokita kit) *McCarthy, Ron (2001) Building Plank-on-Frame Ship Models (Useful general reference) *Nepean Longridge, C (2012) The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships (An unbelievably detailed account of ships of Victory's class) *Goodwin, Peter (2012) Haynes - HMS Victory. Owners' Workshop Manual (Tons of pictures plus other useful stuff) ... plus hundreds of photos gathered from the Web. The idea is to complete the model as she stands in Portsmouth today, rather than at the time of construction, ready for Trafalgar, and so on. I've modified one of my workbenches by fitting a rotating build cradle made of extruded aluminium. This allows the model to be spun around with minimal effort. The first issue to resolve is the missing down staircases on the Upper Deck. Thanks to fellow forum member shihawk and his excellent build log for alerting me to the omission. I certainly don't intend to plank over where the hatches should be, as they will be visible through the skids from the quarterdeck. Instead I'm going to build two small sections of the middle (gun) deck to support the bottom of the staircases. I figure that it will be a lot easier to do now rather than later when space will be restricted. This is how I intend to do it: Please note: the diagram has been corrected subsequent to the original post such that the stairs are now the right way around.
  5. Fellow Shipbuilders: The following is my Build Log for the Vasa. This was my first experience with a wood kit model and as I built the Vasa I referred to a few of your Vasa ship build logs which greatly helped me. I particularly used the site by Vasa by Karleop , Ulyses Victoria, and Markitiedens. Since Karleop was a Billings build it was extremely helpful. I'm very appreciative of these sites and those who took the time to do them. Since the Billings instructions are so poor these sites were a great resource. I also used the Vasa museum site with photos of their model as a paint reference. I had the privilege of visiting Stockholm a few years ago and marvelled at seeing the Vasa in person. My experience as a ship model builder is fairly limited. When I was a youngster I built a number of plastic ship models and as an eighth grader I built a wood model of the French galley La Reale from a picture in a book, which I still have in a glass case. I am now 60 and will be getting back into this wonderful hobby and this is my first experience since my younger years. It has been very interesting learning from your sites and doing research on the internet to finish this ship. I am a surgeon which might have helped with some of the fine work, but not much . Even so, it took me two years to build Vasa because of my limited time. I modified the model by using the ships original color of red instead of the Billings blue, adding the long boat, and by adding crew figures that I bought from an internet site. I hope you enjoy my endeavor. I know I did. PLANKING THE FRAME AND STAINING
  6. Well this is it. I have started Sir Winston after reading so many logs and build instructions, after buying the necessary tools and finding all the various web sites re wooden sailing ships. I spent the first few hours (and they went so quickly) on cutting out the bulk heads and sanding them. The next day I glued them in. I used an old paint brush and 'Titebond' wood glue. Worked very well too.I made a couple of small errors but fixed them up and all is ok. Yesterday I started the planking and am following the method suggested by Billings and by looking at the photos provided. It appears to be going ok although I have only put on two planks...hmmmm. Reading Chucks planking guide it appears that his is more for scratch built boats so I am just going ahead the way Billings suggest. We shall see if it works. I am enjoying it at the moment and can't wait to get into it today. I will attempt to take a photo and upload it for my next log in. Critical comments are welcomed as long as they are positive criticisms. PhillB (Turatopgun)
  7. I got into building this Bluenose by a very sad situation - my friend who was living in the same condo unit as me was building this Bluenose and was sharing workspace with me - My friend got sick about 1 year ago and was diagnosed with cancer - he had surgery and all was well until about September when he got sick again - he passed away in October and his Bluenose was sitting on his workbench in a partly finished state. I asked his family if they had someone to give his Bluenose too and they said no so I asked if I could take over his build and finish it in his honor. They said they would like that so now I have a Bluenose on my workbench. The hull had not been planked very good and had a lot of filler on it - I had to sand it down to get the bumps and lumps out of it - I got it looking pretty good so I started to paint it and put some detailing on the hull. He had some sort of shellack on the deck so I had to sand it down a bit and then painted it with a sandy coloured paint - it doesn't look to bad to me so that is what the deck will look like.
  8. I started this build a few years ago as a stress reliver and as a distraction from work. Too late, as I had a stroke about 6 months after I started the build... I choose to ignore what that might mean about the stress of building one of these things. This boat is a pretty simple compared to what I have seen on MSW. I have built an 18" canoe which proudly sitting on the mantle of my home so now I'm going one better, and bigger. I am writing this as a journal, and to help anyone else who may be building this kit. It is Billings and not very well done, as a whole. I think it is one of the older kits because I have to cut everything out a bit more as it seems they missed a few key cuts. Also, the pictures in the instructions are just horrible, you can't see anything they are so dark. I found a better set (probably from MSW a couple years ago). I was going to uplaod them but they are a bit more than 3 Meg... too big. Stay tuned and fingers crossed.
  9. The mods urged me to start a build log for my eRsatz Billings Boats"Wasa"This kit was apparently designed before an in depth study of the raised Wasa was conducted.Thus I am free from any historical nor accuracy constraints to build it as I see fit!I received it as a partial built that I am now building as a tune up build before i tackle a more modern and expensive kit.Here is what I started with;
  10. Hi everyone !! I'm really excited to be starting this today, though I'm really nervous too lol. If my ship turns out even a tiny bit as good as Jack Panzeca's or Von_Kossa's or any of the others here for that matter then I'll be happy! This will be my first model ship build, although I do have a small background in architectual modeling and of course like many of us here I built plastic models and balsa planes as a kid. I've always had a interest in wooden ship models and I love viking and viking longships so the Oseberg was the logical start for me. I bought this kit about five years ago however life kept me from having the time or place to start building until now. I've spent the last several days reading lots of build logs for this ship and now its time for me to start though I'll need lots of advice tips and help I'm sure. I also want to mention that like Jack P. and von_Kossa I plan on remaking lots of the parts myself and covering all the plywood edges in oak veneer. (I may also do an oak deck like Jack P.) Ok here we go the unboxing pics!!!
  11. I've never tried a build log before, so please forgive any protocol violations: I'll learn as I go along! I'm not a particularly good modeller, but I get a lot of enjoyment from it. I've built a dozen or so wooden boats - highlights are a Thames barge,King of the Mississippi, Louise, the Renown boat, Bremen and a matchstick paddle steamer - so I just couldn't resist the Warrior. I've got to the point where I'm about to start planking, learning a lot from StuartC's excellent log elsewhere on this site, but I've found a few more things that might help new buyers. I'll add some pictures where it helps. 1. Fig 1. Reinforce keel joins, taking care not to intrude on hull. I know you're not as clumsy as me, but... 2. Fig 3 and 4 - I assume you have lots of old planking strips in a box or drawer somewhere: try planking and staining parts 88, 89 and 90 as the deck will be visible down the ladders. 3. Fig 6 - I found that sticking small wooden joining tabs along the bottom of parts 25 and 26 were a huge help in lining up and attaching parts 27 and 28. Make sure you don't make them more than a few mm deep. 4. Fig 7. I very strongly recommend buying 'HMS Warrior - Ironclad' by Wynford Davies in the Seaforth Historic Ships series. The photos are very useful given the lack of detail provided by Billings, and there are interesting thing to learn in the text, such as the windows at the stern aren't, as you might expect, the captain's or admiral's cabin but actually dummies hiding the raising propeller and the officers' toilets! While you're buying books 'Warrior - Restoring the World's First Ironclad' by Andrew Lambert is also very useful 5. Fig 9. Although you don't get to the gunports for some time (Fig 22), it is vital that you make a decision at this point what you're going to do about them. If you're going to have them closed, this is a good time to stick in parts 176 as you can get your fingers round behind them to level them up. If you're going to have them open, you'll want to have something to see behind them, so you have to sort that now before you do the planking. See my next post for details of the guns which were actually used in the ship, though! I used the scrap wood popped out from the gunport holes in the sides to make the back of 3mm deep boxes (I didn't bother with the top as you won't be able to see it); made up some short gun barrels from 3mm dowel which I shaped slightly, and drilled the boxes on a jig to receive these barrels. They may not look much in the attached picture (I said I wasn't particularly good) but they look much better sticking out of the sides than leaving a row of holes, and having them set in a box gives a nice impression of depth. Now you need to stick these in place before the planking begins.
  12. Hi everybody!! First of all forgive my poor English, hope you can understand what I want to tell. The story of my VASA started about 10 years ago, when the son of a friend visited the museum in Sweden and bought the model thinking that he could do with her dad, who has some experience in woodworking. Shortly after, they gave up trying to do it, and stay abandoned for about 8 years. One time I visit him and seeing the model he told me the sad story and asked me if I wanted to try doing it, which I promptly accepted. After reviewing the boat I noticed several errors and that it will be difficult to assemble. Here in Mexico we say that It is always easier to start something than to repair it! This boat represents three challenges: 1) Undo many of the laid parts, redo some parts, either already broken or broken when I tried to take them off. 2) It is a boat complicated to assemble, rated for experts and additionaly with many plastic figures that must be painted with much detail. Also with poor instructions and drawings (but fortunately with much information in forums like this). 3) Many of the pieces were loose and detached from its original panels, so it was like a puzzle to find parts. Therefore, at that time I decided not to start it, partly because I was doing the Endeavour ship, so stay on hold just over two years. Finally, about 6 months ago I decided to build it. Initially without much hope because it had some irremediable things that were complicated to repair (like alignment of lateral panels or deck). So I thought to build it more for practice, that a model to show. However, over time I change my mind and now it’s getting pretty good.
  13. 11 January 2014 Hello All, Having at last got together the two kits; the various tools and paints, and what looks like some excellent recommended reading, my target over the next one or two weeks is to first spend time reading up on the basics, and then complete the construction of the Billing Boats Building Slip. My previous modelling experience has been limited to aircraft - and that was a good few years ago - but I am fortunate to have a son who has considerable modelling experience and who has offered to be my modelling mentor. As things progress, I will try to provide a weekly or fortnightly update on my progress. I do realise of course that I'm going to make mistakes - hopefully not too many - so I am more than happy to receive advice from others, and will certainly not be afraid to ask for advice when I think I need it. My reasons for choosing HMS Victory to build (and I do realise that this is going to me a challenging task) are twofold. The first is having memories of being shown around her in 1967 when I was an officer cadet in the Royal Air Force and had the opportunity, with a few other cadets, of being shown around the ship by a Corporal of Marines who gave us the full and "unrestricted & uncensored" servicemen's tour". The second reason stems from that visit and the years of subsequent reading of naval history and novels covering the period of the Napoleonic wars. Attached are a few pictures of the two kits I will be working with which I hope will give people an idea of where I am starting from. Michael
  14. HI, Im Matti from Sweden. Ive been inlove with the Vasa ship since young age. For a long time I wanted to make a replica, and now decided it was time. I decided to go with the BB kit. It will be out of box, but some changes like open gun ports and some details changed. Having not built wood boats before I know its a hard model to start with. But I need the passion for the subject to keep a big project going. I have done some scratching before so hopefully I can use thet knowledge when building this. Ok, so here are some pics from start to where Im at in the build. I went to the Vasa museum a few weeks back and took a lot of reference. Right now Im trying to figure out how to plank this area: Cheers /Matti
  15. Hello everyone. I live in Nova Scotia a 40 min drive from Lunenburg Nova Scotia, Canada where the 1960 Bounty was made for the movie. I learn to sail in Navy League Cadets at the age of 13. Always like the sea, love the book, movie and history of the Bounty. When she sank during Hurricane Sandy on 29 Oct 2012 I decided I would build her. Ships Log 1/43. (first entry 43hrs in) Frame and keel in. Lots of research to get to this point. Billings directions are for not. Scale Blue print is very good my most valuable tool. Moving on too bow and stern filler. Starting to study the planking and bit worried seems to give lots of trouble (Bluff Bow). I am sure I will have lots of questions. Advice. When told to do something do it. Read in this form to label/number and draw all parts. Only numbered half and I am still paying the price for that error. Help: I have a small twist in my keel, seems to be mainly at the stern. Researching fixes any advice would be great. Thanks Going A Shore Duke
  16. Hi I thought I should share my build as reading other peoples have been a great help and inspiration. Here are some pictures of the early stages, for a new person I spent the first week or so reading and re-reading the instruction book and plans which for this kit were extremely vague for 99% and the obvious bits had excellent detail! As I have nothing to compare it too I don't know if this is typical for wooden kits? I did buy several books on the subject to help --one on planking, one on rigging and a general making model ships books which were excellent. I have posted some pictures which dates from Jan 2014 to date. I have stuck closely to the plans but the jolly boat in the kit looked wrong to me so I used the Caldercraft jolly boat kit which has loads of detail which I will show in another posting (when I have painted the oars etc.) I shall also be ordering better anchors as the plastic ones even painted looked out of place.
  17. Its a new year and its time I cracked this build log thingy, so before I start typing the history of this model I want to make sure I can get the pictures uploaded. Well thanks to my son I've been able to get some pictures on the log. The model had been kicking around an outhouse for about 25 years. Some of the fittings were lost but the overall condition leaves a lot of work to be done to restore / replace it to a suitable condition from where I can progress. I think it will be a total strip down because I have no idea what inhabitants have moved in and the last thing I want is to see is a finished model succumbing to parasites. I have followed many of the different builds on this site and I am proud to be a member of it. I felt it was time to contribute my meagre effort and I hope that this log may be of some help to those who feel that a model is not worth completing
  18. Hi all Well, I decided to re-do this build log, the only thing is the first part will be missing owing to the fact that my old computer packed up working and I lost all the photos and log details of the early part of the build. The old build log was only started after I had got the hull and deck planking done anyway and there was never any photos of this part of the build. Various other parts of the build were completed before the mishap with the computer, so I hope you will all bear with me as I try to recreate this log as best I can. It all started nearly two and half years ago when the Bounty was given to me as a Christmas present. The only other boat kit that I have built is a Bluenose II, so I am pretty green to model ship building. As usual the build began with the bulk heads and false deck, this all went together without any trouble and the fit of all the parts was very good. Once this was complete the carcass was made ready for the planking. Once underway with the planking my problems began, having never planked this type of ship before, I had no idea about how to go about achieving what I was trying to accomplish. In the end it all worked ok, other than where the planks were bent around the bow. These ended up having a clinker affect, which needed a lot of sanding to get a nice smooth end result. In doing this some of the planks became very thin around this area and so I decided to double plank it. (The kit is a single plank construction). The second planking was a lot easier owing to the planks being quite a bit thinner. Next was the deck planking, this went very well and the finish looked good, to me anyway. This was followed by the planksheer, this went on without encountering any problems. This was followed by the gratings and companionways all made up from the kit parts and installed in their respective places. At about this time I decided to deviate from the kit by adding a flag locker and binnacle. These items were not supplied in the kit and so had to be made from scratch using odd pieces of ply and leftovers from the planking. The steering wheel was made up using the kit parts supplied and fitted into its position. Moving on, the knightheads, headrails and the catheads were completed and this brings us to the part of the build where I can show you the pictures of the work completed so far. So here are a few for you to enjoy, more will follow when time permits. Regards Phil
  19. Well,the big box arrived yesterday,and,although I'm not supposed to start this model before I've got my new workshop,I just couldn't resist making a start! This kit may not be the best as far as some people are concerned,but a 1:75 scale Victory for £260 is worth a try! Instructions are a bit vague,but you just have to sit down and study the pictures for a while. The wooden parts all seem to be very good quality,and fit together nicely so far. After the first day I had the main bulkheads in place,and also the lower deck,which I am planking today. First 2 pictures are a bit blurred,as I've just realised I still had my camera set up for taking photo's of the moon through my telescope,but it's all sorted now! I haven't got a building slip,but have purchased a keel clamp which is already proving to be very helpful in turning the ship round easily. More pics to follow as I progress,and I would welcome any input from anyone who has built this model.
  20. When I learned that all my data was lost here on MSW, a saying that I grew up with came to mind: "pull up your boot straps and keep going" So, here I am going on and re-posting! I used the google cached pages to search for my old build log and found it in its entirety! (minus the photos, which I have stored on my computer) For anyone interested: Type your username, ship name and modelshipworld in Google. When the results appear, hover over the arrows/chevrons to the right of one of the search results and a link will appear. Click on "cached" and you may well find your entire text from your log. Good Luck I don't plan to use all of the "found" text, but it will help with the order of my log. Any of the original text will appear in black and any new text will appear in blue. I am a good distance into this build. I just joined MSW and discovered that I could start a build log - so here goes. The kit:
  21. Hi I am getting started with my Mary Ann from Billing Boat, So here's a picture of how far I've come so far. This is my first model ship I'm building.When I am "only" 28 years I think that I will achieve to become so good at building large ships. My big dream is to build a HMS Victory when I feel I can handle it ... There's gonna built a number of other ships before. Sorry for my English
  22. Bought totally out of the blue at our local model shop the Admiral and I both fell in love with this model for some unfathomable reason Here is the Historic ship register entry http://www.nationalhistoricships.org.uk/register/234/Will Here is more personal information on the barge (ex Will Everard). Official No. 148677. 150 tons, built of steel originally as "Will Everard" in 1925 for F.T. Everard & Co. Ltd., by Fellowes of Great Yarmouth. She was one of four built between 1925 and 1926 and all named after parters in the family firm- Alf Everard, Ethel Everard, Will Everard and Fred Everard. They cost about £500 each, and were built to the same dimensions - 97.6 x 23.1 x 9.6 feet, but two of them were registered as carrying more cargo and were therefore charged more for towing dues. They were claimed to carry the greatest set of sails of the sailing barges as they measured 112 feet from truck to keel and had sprits 65 feet in length. This allowed them to set 5,600 square feet of canvas, not including balloon canvas. They carried a crew of three - skipper, mate and third hand. They were built when Everards secured the contract to supply gas coal to the Margate Gas works, and the Will did a lot of this work, fetching coal to Margate from Keadby on the Humber. In trade they had a grey hull with a pink bottom, black rails and gold sheer line. The Will Everard traded by sail alone until 1950 and was by then the last one of the four to have an engine fitted (Ethel Everard having been lost earlier at Dunkirk). From 1932 until a little while after she had her engine fitted, her Master was Captain Jim Uglow MBE - the only barge captain known to receive this decoration for gallantry, devotion to duty and meritorious service on board the Will Everard during the war. He tells his story in the book "Sailorman - A Barge Master's Story" - about half of which includes his time as master of the Will Everard. Hugh O'Donell, started as third hand on her in 1946, and became master of her in the 50's for Everards. The Will Everard was finally sold out of trade in 1966 for £750 to Vernon S. Harvey under the condition that she did not retain the same name. She was renamed Will. She was used as a store for this time, until bought by John R. Hobbins who rerigged her and used her as a private yacht, until he sold her to Overseas Containers Ltd (part of the P&O group) in 1976. She has changed ownership within the P&O group, in her role as hospitality/P.R./corporate entertainment ship. The photograph above shows her in 1988, anchored off Heybridge Basin on the River Blackwater, with a green hull when owned by OCL. More recently she has been sporting a blue hull under P&O colours. Master was Sue Harrison who eventually bought her in partnership with Malcom Fisher. 2004 - now owned by Topsail Events and Charters and available for charter There is now a link between Will and the Falmouth Lifeboat of the RNLI. John Hobbins and his wife set up the Will Charitable Trust which gave money to fund the purchase of a new Severn Class lifeboat which is stationed at Falmouth, Cornwall. In commemoration of this, the life boat has been named "The Will" after the barge they once owned. I am going to build it concurrently to the Endeavour and hope to finish it well before to get some practice in the ways and wherefores of sails Well here we go I wish myself good luck
  23. onto the next build i started building this kit a couple of days ago and so far ive got the hull framing done on both half of the boat, ive also got the false decks glued down and started to shape the hull ready for planking, ive also made a start on some of the deck structures too
  24. this is a new build of the billing boats. st roch 605 1.72 scale this going to be a fun build the boat sits in vancouver iam 4hrs away from there . so here are some pic of the boat kit and yes its all here in the kit i did a check list of all the parts .ps i took a break and yes iam back
  25. now for the biggie........I have quite a log on this build. at the moment, I am waiting for the budget director's OK to order the dead eyes for this build. so, I have plenty of time to get all this back up onto the site. this poor girl has seen a few problems......even being dropped on the floor once. she has also seen her fair share of kit bashing, and additions in detail.......thanks to Eric, Erik, and Anton, for supplying me with well over a hundred pictures of this fine vessel......if I relyed on the internet, I would probably be at a loss. At the time of the atart of this build, I did not have a proper build slip for her. I made one myself. using a large pine board, and some junk wood, I was able to do so.
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