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Found 5 results

  1. Hello all! I’m having great difficulty with this concept and am wondering if anyone has a solution? Essentially, I need to strop double blocks for rigging the cannons on my ship, but I am rather confused as to what happens to the end of the line. It seems like it is supposed to feed back into itself? That seems a little beyond my capabilities, but I’m very curious to see what others do. It’s something that’s so common, I don’t see the actual process mentioned very often, nor do I see it detailed much at larger scales. At a smaller scale, it’s a lot easier to give the illusion of a properly stropped block, but at this scale I am at a loss for how to proceed. Any help is greatly appreciated! Here are a couple pictures to illustrate what I mean. (I know, the last picture is definitely not the best way of doing it, right?)
  2. MAY 20TH THROUGH THE 24TH 2019 (MON-FRI) BlueJacket's rigging class is a popular event. We run it from 9 to 3 for 5 days (although some people leave early on Friday.) IT IS A CLASS FOR NOVICES. We don't assume you know anything about rigging a ship model. All tools and materials are provided with the class fee of $400. You get a hull to work on, all the sticks and dowels, the glue, blocks, deadeyes, threads, wire, beeswax, and the following tools: Excel hobby knife and blades Pin Vise Assortment of drill bits tweezers needle nose pliers flush cutters cuticle scissors (best for clipping rigging) and probably some other things I forgot If you use magnifiers for your modeling work, you should bring them. By the end of the class you will have learned how to use the tools, tie a multitude of various knots, and will have completed what you see in the picture below: You can see shrouds, backstays, bobstays, gammoning, vangs, topping lift, ratlines, hearts, throat halyard, peak halyard, sheet tackle on a traveler, lifts, braces, forestays, etc. Obviously, we don't waste a lot of time to make the model look pretty! We want to concentrate on the rigging. At the end of the class, BlueJacket will ship your model and materials to your home, again all part of the tuition cost. Monday will include a pizza party for lunch and a behind the scenes tour of the BlueJacket facility. In addition, all students will receive a 10% discount on anything they buy during that week. Kits, tools, books, gift items, you name it! The hours of 9-3 are flexible, we have the hotel conference room available 24 hours a day for the week. If you bring a family member, the 3:00 PM cutoff lets you do some sightseeing around the area. But if you need to catch up a bit, the room is yours! Classes will be at the Fireside Inn in Belfast, 4 miles from BlueJacket on Route 1, tel# 207-338-2090. You can ask for the BlueJacket corporate rate if you choose to stay there. There is a pool and Jacuzzi, exercise room, a decent breakfast bar, and all rooms have an excellent view of Penobscot Bay. If you are the camping type, Searsport Shores is also nearby. Class is limited to 12 people with payment in advance. Full refund up to 2 weeks before, 50% refund up to 1 week before. Unfortunately, cancellation less than a week in advance cannot be refunded except by extreme circumstances, which we reserve the right to determine.
  3. Hi there guys. I’m currently working on Mamoli’s HMAV Bounty and I’m reaching the tiller rigging stage. I’m trying to do a quality job and am happy with my progress so far but I’m approaching the rigging stage and don’t want my rigging job to let the model down.... I have several questions that will probably seem really basic to some of the seasoned modelers on here. But I’m struggling to find information or clear answers on the subject. Firstly is it correct that the thicker rope between the block and the loop that goes through the eyebolt in the illustrated picture on my bounty plans is from a separate smaller rope making it appear to be thicker? Or is it the same rope? Which is the ideal way to do it? Is here any good videos or books that I can download that can show me how to do these kind of basics? I have no shortage of ropes so either way doesn’t bother me...I’m just trying to do it most realistic looking way possible and learn. Secondly the way the plans are asking me to fix the eyebolt into the the deck seems unusual to me. And I just wanted to clarify that it isn’t another mistake in the plans (which I have noticed a few) The eyebolt has a width of .5 mm and drilling a 1.5 mm hole in the deck sounds wide to me, even for a folded eyebolt. Just wanted to check that this is common practice.
  4. I'm finally about to start the running rigging (With Sails) and the first instructions are about connecting the rigging to the yards. Basically, the thread goes through a hole at the top of the mast and then somehow connected to the yard. What I don't see is, How the heck am I supposed to connect the thread to the yard? I'm assuming I just tie it on or is there some subtle part of the instruction I'm missing? Also, other halyard instructions for the other yards look like the rigging just goes through some blocks but never actually tie onto the yard. Is that correct? A large number of blocks were added to the yards in earlier instructions. I see in one part of the running rigging instructions where they note that fact and that the rigging should be done with those blocks. It seems like there are more blocks (I could be wrong) then there is rigging to them for those yards (for that one instruction part). And, there are tons of other areas where blocks are needed for other rigging all over the rest of the instructions. Is there an assumption that some of those blocks that were previously rigged would be used in those other instructions and not just the area noting their usage? Sorry, if this seems confusing, but if you've completed this any time recently, I think you might understand what I'm getting at. Thanks.
  5. Hi All, I am starting the rigging for a 3 masted square rigged English ship from around 1800. In have looked in a few books and other internet ressources about the subject, but I cannot figure out how the blocks that are fitted under the masts' tops are called, how many of them are there and what are they used for. Can anyone help?

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If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

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