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  1. Last yr I made a trial keel of the HMS Echo cross section available at http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Tips.html I had life intervene but I want to start building the cross section. The last few days I have spent building another copy of the keel. It came out ok. Thinking about the completed keel I realise a few ways I could speed up the process as well as make it a bit more accurate in cutting the slots of the rising keel. Last yrs keel on the left, the new keel on the right. I have a question now that I am ready to start on the frames. The instructions call for starting on the dead flat available at http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Echo_frame__dead_flat__1.pdf My reading is that each frame comprises two sections, a fore and aft frame. All of the frame numbers have fore and aft indicated on the pdf except the Dead Flat. Yet, It seems that there are two distinct sets of futtocks for the 2 dead flats as shown in http://www.admiraltymodels.com/Sided_frame_dimensions.pdf I am not understanding this obviously so can someone point me in the right direction thanks?
  2. Apparently I prefer to have multiple builds going at once, as I'm still working on the Lake Chapala Canoa build. But, this should be a relatively short and quick build, as it's a cross-section of a largely open boat. Obviously, this is an unusual choice for a cross-section--why make a cross-section of a boat that already has mostly visible framing?--and I think it will be the smallest vessel with a cross-section build log on the site. So, it's reasonable to ask why I'm doing it. Apologies for the long-winded explanation! Detail from the plans of the Juana y José. A cross-section of a barca catalana, a similar vessel. The Juana y José is actually a bit simpler than this in some aspects. Source: https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Barca_levantina#/media/Archivo:Parts_buc-català.jpg Why am I building a cross section of such a small boat? One thing that I'm grappling with is that, for the foreseeable future, I am going to be moving with some regularity and probably won't have much space. This makes modeling difficult. Unless I plan on giving most of my builds away, most everything will have to be readily transportable. So, much as I'd like to jump into even a relatively small model of a rigged sailing ship, like the Chilean Lancha Chilota coasting sloop that I have plans for to make a POB model, or the Model Shipways Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack, I'm struck by how difficult it will be to pack it up and lug it with me. So, I'm considering some more portable options. One option would be an unrigged half hull, and I do think I want to do the NRG half hull. Beyond being a good learning experience, it would be easy to store on a wall and much easier to transport than a rigged model. Another option would be to do some extremely small models or ships in a bottle, the latter of which would definitely take the prize for portability. There are some amazing and creative builds in both categories on the site, but I don't think my building skills are quite there yet. Another option is a cross-section (without a mast). The Triton and Echo cross sections both look fantastic, but both also seem like you really need more tools and skills than I have to build them. Finally, I was looking at a fourth option: a small model around 6 inches long, likely of a rowing vessel in a reasonable scale that wouldn't be too fiddly to make. I got started with modeling after going to the Barcelona Maritime Museum and being blown away by its small craft collection, and one of my goals is to build a POF model of a traditional lateen-rigged Spanish fishing vessel (of which there are a number of types--the barca catalana, the Mallorcan llaüt, the palangrera, the sardinal, the barquets and barches of Valencia that wefalck discusses in detail on his website: https://www.maritima-et-mechanika.org/maritime/albufera/Boats-of-the-Albufera.html, etc). I found that a Spanish modeler, Alfonso del Valle, had drawn up plans--not just line plans, but also diagrams of all frames--and made them freely available for one such boat, the Juana y José. Although there are no builds of it on this site, the Spanish modeling forum Foro Modelismo Naval has a number of builds (such as this one: https://www.foromodelismonaval.es/viewtopic.php?t=15014), and the plans produce a very nice model. Javier Baron, who has a number of albums in the galleries of Model Ship World, even made a beautiful tiny model in 1:74 scale: https://barcosbaron.wordpress.com/2015/01/11/391/). The Juana y José is a small vessel, and the plans are originally in 1:15, but I was curious about what a 1:32 scale build would be like, as that would produce a model about 6 inches long (1:74 scale, in contrast, is well beyond my skills). Printing the plans off in that scale, I noted that the frames would be thin, but perhaps still manageable, and that all parts can be constructed from basswood in thicknesses I have access to. I decided to hold off on a full build for now, as I have no idea how to plank a curved hull form yet. But a small cross-section seemed like a way to test out whether I will want to eventually go ahead with a full build at 1:32, or if I'd prefer a larger scale. It also will give me some experience with POF construction, and will produce a readily portable model. Also, if I eventually do a full build, I can display it alongside the full model. The Juana y José There are a few particularities about the boat and the plans. As del Valle discussed both on his website, now sadly defunct but still viewable through the Internet Archive (https://web.archive.org/web/20160902024136/http://www.modelismonaval.com/magazine/almejera/juanayjose.html), and also on Foro Modelismo Naval, the Juana y José is a real vessel, an old fishing boat that he came across on the beach in Algeciras. The owner allowed him to take its lines and photograph it, and told him about its history. It was built in Málaga sometime in the early 1900s, and was later sold to an Algeciras fisherman. It was broken up in 2003, and was 4.75m/15.6ft long. However, the actual vessel is entirely open and oar-powered (while the owner said it used to have a sail, del Valle saw no mast step or other such evidence, although it conceivably was removed during repairs or renovations). While del Valle accurately depicts the Juana y José in its line plans, in the other sheets, he instead decided to depict it in the rest of the plans as a lateen-rigged, decked vessel, similar in form to a sardinal, and added a prominent windlass, turning it into a traditional clam dragger as he remembered from his youth. So, while the hull is accurate, other details are not. These additions are certainly similar to other vessels, though. So, I could either build the Juana y José accurately as a pure rowboat, follow the plans even if they're not totally accurate--as I've noticed, they make a gorgeous model, and I do really love the look of Spanish lateen-rigged fishing boats--or perhaps take a middle route, inspired by the owner's comment that it used to have a sail, and add a mast while leaving off the deck and windlass. Following the plans would certainly produce the most visually interesting option, even if it's still very simple for a cross-section. The Build, Part 1: The Keel I decided to make the cross-section long enough to include two thwarts, providing the build with some structural rigidity. I chose a six-frame section running from around amidships foreward. If I choose to follow the plans, this section will include the mast step and windlass. The section is just under 2 inches long. I started with the keel. As it turns out, at 1:32 scale, the keel is very close in thickness to 1/16 of an inch, so I was able to use some of my stock of that basswood for the keel. While this seems very thin to me, it's what the plans show and widening it would require reshaping all the frames a bit, so I'm keeping it for now at least. I marked and filed out the frame notches. My filing skills could use a little work, and the notch on the right in the photo below is too wide, but it will do. I then carefully carved out the rabbet, mostly using an exacto knife but also running a file edge along it to widen it a little. I was very concerned about the rabbet cutting through the keel--again, it's 1/16-inch thick--so it's probably not as deep as it should be, but I think it will work. After this photo, I added a coat of sealer-varnish to strengthen the wood a bit--I don't want it breaking along the rabbet or elsewhere, or chipping any more than it already has. Some of the notches may need to be slightly deepened, but I'm going to leave them as-is for now and adjust that once I test-fit the frames. This post is already long, so I'll leave the first frame for the next post.
  3. I wanted to forget a memory that I lost some parts of the Papegojan 1627. 😱 The AL San Francisco Cross Section may heal my wounded heart. Because of the kit's unreality, its assembly ability is extremely good. I would say that children are able to build this kit without much difficulty. I added some temporary planks (yellow arrows) to harden the frame's shape. The 1st planking is done. At this point, I decided to change the second plank from stock sapelle to my Asian pearwood. After some trial and error, I made straight strips using a laser cutter. As I said, the kit has many fatal errors. It just combined every detail that people might like. - The ladders (Red) are too slow, and the width is narrower than shoulder width. - The grating frames are on the beams (Blue). - The cross sectional diagram is not realistic (Green). I referred to the cross sectional diagram from the contemporary wreckage ship. ( Source : https://albaola.org/proceso-de-construccion/ , https://www.patrimoniocultural.gov.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf ) But, I stopped in the middle of modification. I didn't want to pay more than a month for this kit, so I left the cross sectional diagram incomplete. Also, I I cut the beam to expand the space for grating frames. The thicker beam was part of the modification for realistic structure. By the way, I decided to skip the ladder. I thought it made more sense. This is an internal painting. I applied a cherry-colored gel stain. The outside and cross section are Asian pearwood. I love the pink wood. The next step will be gunports.
  4. I've long been interested in attempting a scratch build but I was simultaneously hesitant because I over analyze everything and couldn't get past finding lumber of the correct dimensions - enter Modeler's Sawmill. I finally threw caution the the wind and inquired if @Joe V could put together an Echo framing package for me in Alaskan Yellow Cedar - The smell is incredible. I choose the Echo cross section (tricky framing and all) because my end goal is to attempt an admiralty style fully framed hull and I thought the skills developed in this build "should" put me on a path towards that goal. I have picked up the TFFM series to help me along though the first volume is most applicable for the initial framing portion of the build. If this goes well I plan on fully fitting out the build, but we'll make that final call when I get there. My power tools are limited (Byrnes Saw and Disc sander...I can see the usefulness of a spindle sander for touching up the frames but workshop space is limited so I'll see what I can do without one) so this build will progress at a leisurely pace (that pace is also do to the fact that I have no idea what I'm doing so please, any tips pointers and corrections are welcomed). I have printed out the keel plans and away we go (I see some mention of using a table saw to cut out the keel joint - I assume this is done by taking slow swipes and creating the joint through the blade's kerf? I can't envision a safe way to accomplish this otherwise). Wish me luck! PS - If I can remember I'll try to include some pictures of my failed attempts at parts so that anyone following along can see that if I can do this then you can too.
  5. Well my kit arrived, and my workbench is mostly cleaned off, so I had best start my build log. I'll post some pictures tomorrow, if my first Covid shot doesn't hit me too hard.
  6. The box showed up fairly quickly via FedEx. Inventoried the parts and read over Tom's instructions (well, looked at the pictures😁). I'll be slow diving into this, waiting for my eye surgeries in March. But, I'll be here following along with the rest of the mates.
  7. Hi all, I'm actually waiting on a couple of small sheets of parts from CAF, and those should be here pretty soon, courier dependent. The kit itself landed last week in under 7 days from China, via TNT/FedEx. Pretty quick for these times we currently live in. If you haven't already checked out my review for this kit, please do so here: I still need to dump my photos from camera yet, and I'll wait until I have the first double frame complete. Give me a couple of days or so Jim
  8. As the building of my other model, H.M.S. Leopard at 1:80 took the best part of 9 years, I didn't want to take on another full-on model of a complete ship. So, since I have basic drawings/plans of Leopard I'm going to have a try at a cross section. As a section will require a lot less space for the finished item I wanted to exploit that and have increased the scale considerably. . . . and to explain about the unusual scale of 1:44 - - - I had planned to have the previous drawings at 1:80 doubled and asked for that at the copy shop. The enlarged copies didn't quite come out at twice the size. At the widest point on the body plan the moulded breadth measures exactly 11 inches. Compared to the 'real width' of the actual ship at 39 feet 10 inches that works out at 1:43.45 --- so, its official model scale will be called "1:44". Okay, that's that out of the way. As for the actual parts of the drawings and plans that I will need, some modifications have to be made before I can even think about creating more sawdust in my hut. When I built my previous Leopard it was P.o.B. so the body plan was sufficient for creating the bulkheads but I have to modify that plan for creating frames. All I have is this >>> and one copy of a section at mid-ship >>> I will need more than the 'half frames' that are available on the body plan, so, I had the image flipped horizontally and made a few copies >>> I then cut two of the flipped copies down the centre line and pasted them onto 'right-way-round' copies and ended up with these >>> These two copies above were the ones that came back from the copy shop at almost twice their original size. (I had 12 copies of the aft frame plan and 6 of the forward frame plans copied.) The section drawing above is reasonably adequate as a rough guide to the basic shape of the mid-ship frame but I will have to make use of the body plan for the nine frames I intend to make. It won't be a fully-framed section but instead the frames will equate to the positions of the bulkheads 13 to (B) shown in the plan below >>> It will be a little longer than most sections I have seen as I want it to extend from just ahead of the companionway forward of the main mast back to the two capstans. As a section at this scale would have a full height mainmast at around 1.6 metres (over 5 feet) I intend just to display with a 'stump' of a main mast as shown in the section drawing. (second image in this post.) This project is requiring a lot more advance planning than did my previous build before the sawdust stage so hopefully I'll have formulated a definite route to go by the next post. (I have ideas -- just have to test them!)
  9. Until now, my modeling experience has been in plastic. This will be my first attempt on a 'plank on frame' build in wood. Wish me luck! These are the woods I will be using, subject to change. Also, I have started working on the frame jig.
  10. " LE CENTAURE 1782" Scale 1/36 April 2015 I started with the construction of the model and soon realized, "that is a big think". I wanted to present it as a cross-section model with complete interior design, in the style of my model BONHOMME RICHARD 1779. On some whim I finished the construction Oktober 2016, all nicely packed and mothballed. I still want to show the images of the construction protocol, and have the hope that it will eventually be built further. The sequence of images extends over a period of eighteen month in the time-lapse mode. Karl (Google Translator)
  11. This will be my build log for a project I've been building, on and off for some time. The cross section is of the HMS Blandford, a 20 gun Sixth Rate frigate launched in 1720 and represents a small segment of the ship at the level of the main mast. Included are the mast, the well and shot lockers, chain pump as well as elm tree pump details and weather deck details including 2 cannons. The model will be plank on frame with hull planked down to the wales. There are two decks. As I usually do, I hope to use no paint or stain (or at least as little as I can!). The plans are based on "The 20 Gun Ship Blandford" by Peter Goodwin, one of the AOTS series. The plans were drawn by one of my cyber friends, Mike41 who posts here. He did a great job. Although there are some simplifications in the framing (no chocks or scarfs in the hull frames, for example) the plans are fairly close to the AOTS drawings. The second photo shows the cross section's location in longitudinal view.
  12. I just got this from amazon today and can't wait to get at it. The box was a little damaged and had been opened previously so I think it was a return. The contents were well packed and still in the original shrink wrap so I think it will be fine. I have only found a couple of build logs for this one and none of those were done to completion so I guess I am on my own on this one. I can already see quite a few changes/"improvements" that will make this an interesting build for me. As others have pointed out historical accuracy is not what this kit was made for. I will get started in earnest tomorrow night. Hope to see you all then.
  13. Part 1: Introduction of a new project: With my Triton cross section running to its completion, it is time to look out to a new cross section project. My eye fell on a former group project of our modeling club ( https://dedissel.weebly.com/ a cross section of a Lowestoft smack, based on drawings of the smack 'Master Hand'. One of the club members, Georges Verleene, an experienced ship carpenter (now retired), wrote for this project a very detailed monograph with lots of detailed drawings. The group project went on many years ago, but lucky for me Georges had still a copy of the handout left. 001.pdf
  14. I swore I wouldn't start building another kit before at least one of my other multi-year projects was finished, but I'm remodeling and so much more space opened up in my apartment for ship models, welp, we all know how that goes. Artesania Latinas Cross Section of the San Francisco in 1:50 scale is one of their older kits, meant to supplement the discontinued first edition of the San Francisco full model kit. Comparing the cross section to the new full model re-release, there's some noticeable differences between the ships, mainly regarding the placement of the gun ports. Side by side they don't even look like the same ship anymore. The kit is unsusal in that it does something I've not seen with any other cross section kit and that is replicating sheer. There's a noticable height difference height wise along frames not only on the bulwark but also along the middle and upper deck. On the other hand, there's no visible camber to the decks. You win some, you lose some I guess. The kit came out about the time that Artesania Latina realised instructions should probably be a bit more detailed than a list of parts and "Glue all of these things together, good luck, mate.". We get some nice booklets, one for the hull and one for the masts and rigging both weighing in at about 20-30 pages. Construction starts with the framework. The frames are preformed and not built up like in other kits, which makes things easy, but a bit basic looking and unrealistic. This is a recurring theme throughout the kit. Ease of the build takes preference before realism. The lower deck is glued in and planked. Again things are simplified, there's no keelson, no drains, no pumps, nothing, just a hole in the ground for the mast.
  15. Hi. I present the section of HMS Victory, at 1:98 scale, which I have finished. I have started from the Corel kit, of which I have only used the piece that forms the helmet, although given the work required to adapt it, it would have been easier to have made the frames following the plans, or the books, that I used for its construction . The woods used are walnut, cherry, and ebony. The metallic parts are made of blued brass. I leave photos of its construction. I hope you like it. A greeting. (Hola. Os presento la sección del HMS Victory, a escala 1:98, que he terminado. He partido del kit de Corel, del que únicamente he utilizado la pieza que forma el casco, aunque dado el trabajo que requirió para adaptarla, hubiese sido mas fácil haber realizado las cuadernas siguiendo los planos, o los libros, que he utilizado para su construcción. Las maderas utilizadas son nogal, cerezo, y ébano. Las partes metálicas son de latón pavonado. Os dejo fotos de su construcción. Espero que os guste. Un saludo)
  16. I have started the cross section model...mostly drafting. But I figured I would start a log. I am waiting on arrival of a variety of machine screws and nuts to finish drafting the keel parts. They will be set up in the usual fashion you folks have seen but I will post that once its ready. Here is the overall plan I am working from. Hopefully it will look like this once done...planked on one side and open framed on the other. I have started drafting the frames. There will be some bent frames with curved top timbers but this is just a plain straight one. Here are the laser cut pieces.....but you will not build the frame with the parts laid out like this. Because the laser cuts on an angle, it is best to strategically flip certain parts to get the tightest fit possible. You wont get one side with a large gap which is typical. Therefore no sanding of the char is needed ...nor should you attempt to sand the char from the edges of all joints that fit together. They will fit perfectly as is. The only drawback is that you will see the seam which in some instances was not the case as they werent tarred. But thats OK.... So I flipped them as I show in the photo below....flip parts "C" and "D" for the best fit possible. Note the dirty side on the flipped parts. There is no need to build each frame on top of a plan trying to get the frame to come out the correct shape. I have created some tabbed guides which make it very easy. I built five of these frames and they all came out the same...Each one took just a few minutes. I used titebond on the seams. Just take care not to glue the guides to the frame. See below. All glued up. Then the guide tabs are cut free leaving the frame strong and ready for sanding. I sanded every edge to remove the char except for the notch in the bottom chock which stays unsanded. It needs to be a perfect press fit into notches I created in the rising wood...which I will show later. But the finished frame all sanded up up looks like the one below. The top cross bar is added for strength and also to help register all of the frames once they are glued onto the keel. That is what those two notches on the cross bar are for. After I draft more frames it will make more sense. Chuck
  17. Hello, this is my first attempt at building ship (ok part of ship) from scratch. I think it will be a good practise for beginning. I dare not to build whole ship yet and I also do not have so much space at home for 1:48 ship. I choose american walnut for main parts. I got this wood from my work - it is not a common species here in Europe. It is hard and has a beautiful dark colour. I made the first 3 pieces according to plan.
  18. Part 1 - Introduction When I first started ship modeling in 2012, I purchased a set of plans from Seaways Publishing for the Dunbrody Irish Famine Ship. The plans appealed to me because I was born in Ireland and have read quite a bit on the famine years. The Dunbrody is a replica of an actual ship that was built in Quebec in 1845 by Thomas Hamilton Oliver for William Graves, a lumber merchant from New Ross in County Wexford in the southeastern part of Ireland. The Dunbrody’s construction coincided with the Irish Famine years, during which the Irish tenant farmers were starving due to the failure of their potato crops – their primary food source. The ship was designed to carry lumber from the new world to Ireland and England. On her return voyage she mainly carried pig iron and limestone, which left room for carrying a fairly large number of passengers and normally accommodated up to 176 Irish emigrants who were trying to escape the potato famine. The replica ship was commissioned by the John F. Kennedy Trust of New Ross, as a tribute to the emigration of the Kennedy family from their Irish homestead near New Ross. The current Dunbrody was designed by the naval architect Colin Mudie, who had designed a number of replica ships. The plans for the replica were based on entries for the original ship in the Lloyd’s Register, and from certificates and surveys. Mr. Mudie also wrote a book titled “Sailing Ships” in which he presented a number of ships he had designed. The book included a section on the design and construction of the Dunbrody. I don’t think I had any real thoughts on how to model the Dunbrody when I originally purchased the plans. I was new to modeling and didn’t have any experience in scratch building. After seeing Ed Tosti’s work on Young America I decided a few things. First, Dunbrody is not a very refined ship, and her lines are no comparison to the beauty of the clipper ships. My primary reason for building Dunbrody is to show the accommodations for the Irish emigrants. I felt that this could best be accomplished by building a sectional model. The plans from Seaways Publishing contain most, if not all, of the details needed to construct an accurate model, so I would try to reproduce the details presented in the plans. I would use Ed Tosti’s build logs and books for Naiad and Young America to learn the techniques and processes I would need to build the model. In addition to the plans for Dunbrody, and Ed’s books, I will also be using two excellent books as references: “American Built Packets and Freighters of the 1850s” by William L. Crothers and “Wooden Ship-Building” by Charles Desmond. A number of questions arose as I started planning for this build, and I started a thread entitled “Planning for a Sectional Model of Dunbrody” to get some feedback from the more experienced modelers on this site. Most of my questions have been resolved, so it’s a good time to start building.
  19. Ok, Getting started on Triton cross section. My first scratch build. Just cut out the keel, false keel, and keelson. actually cut out two sets. Second is for testing purposes. Next step is to sand and affix the keel and false keel then wait for more plans!
  20. Dom Fernado II e Gloria was launched in Daman, India in 1843 and fitted out in Goa and took her maiden voyage to Lisbon in 1845. She remained in active service until 1878 then remained anchored in Lisbon until 1963 when she burned to the waterline during repairs. She remained sitting in the mud until 1993 when a five year reconstruction was begun. She was open to the public for Expo 98 and is on permenant display in Cacilhas south of Lisbon. D.Fenando was constructed of teak and the frame layout is different from the norms for Europe. They are doubled and the fore and aft are mirror images. All the frames are the same width with the gaps between frames all the same. The plans and a book about the reconstruction came from the Maritime Museum in Lisbon. I then scanned them joined the scans with Photoshop and imported them into Autocad. The book has some good pictures of the construction and plans not included with the regular plans. Unfortunatly the pictures and plans don't always agree. The photos show a frame in the middle of each gunport but the plans don't so I decided to go with the pictures because that is how the ship is actually built. The frames and made of Brazilian Cherry the decks will be maple and everything else will be whatever is in the wood pile. This is my first build log and I'm no writer (that's my fathers job) and our best camera is the phone of she how must be obeyed, so here goes. What you see so far is about a year of computer work and making sawdust. These are the pieces of the No. 2 frame. All the other frames are the same layout. The fore and aft faces are mirror images of each other. The pieces where ruff cut on the scroll saw and the joints where done with a sled on the Proxxon table saw. I don't have any pictures on the keel but is built up differently than usual. There is a false keel, keel and top. The rabbet is just an angle cut in the top of the keel then the top is placed on the keel. There are no notches for the frames. They are just placed on the keel and bolted down. Almost forgot, the section is from the boarding ladder aft to the capstan and includes the main mast. Enough for today. As always comments good, bad or indifferent are always welcome.
  21. Hi all, Having completed HMS Vulture and donating her to the Port Macquarie Maritime Museum I decided to build a Cross-section of the ship to display alongside her. I will be building the section in exactly the same way I built the original model, using the same timbers etc. This will allow viewers to see some of the internal details which are now virtually invisible. Below is my now customary Index to Points of Interest. Clicking on a Link will take you to the relevant post where the construction of that area begins. The Index will be added to as work progresses. Index to Points of Interest Preparations Keel Floors Frames Fitting Frames Fairing Pump Recesses and Pump Inlets Internal Planking Treenailing and Mainmast Step Lower Deck Beams Stanchions for the Well Lower Well and Shot Locker Limber Boards and Lower Deck Knees Iron Knees Chain Pump Sprocket and Chain Pump Tubes Hatch Coamings Mast Lower Deck Planking Upper Well Mast Partner Carlings and Main Topsail Sheet Bitt Pins Hammock Battens Gratings Mast Partners and Pump Tubes Fitted Wales External Planking and Treenailing and Port Liners Bitts Fitted, Cisterns and Chain Pump Cranks Elm Tree Pumps Guns Quarterdeck Section, Entry Steps and External Moldings Guns Finished, Gangways and Ladder Gangway Railing and Newel Post, Channel, Chains and Deadeyes FINISHED MODEL .
  22. Our Echo cross-section is now complete. I have modeled her with the port side in frame and the starboard side completely fitted out. Finish is dilute sanding sealer. She is made of boxwood and holly. Dyed holly is used for the black portions. Conveniently, Admiralty Models sells both a framing package and a fitting out package so that you may choose your own style of display. The new fitting out package, milled by MSW vendor Crown Timberyard, includes sufficient boxwood and holly to finish the entire hull with plenty of extra for redo's. The price will be $275, postage additional. if you would like to reserve an Echo fitting out timbering package please send an email to me at dvm27@comcast.net.
  23. Hi All, I’ve decided to try and build the Triton cross section after seeing all your great builds. I love seeing all the exposed framing details and so just have to try this build myself. I am also hoping making this cross section will help me do a better job on the Confederacy which will be my next full build. I am using boxwood for the main structural components and my thanks to Jason at Crown Timberyard for the gorgeous boxwood he just milled for me. I plan to use swiss pear for all the planking, holly for the decking and perhaps walnut for all the deck furniture. I hope these choices will make for a nice paint with wood look once finished. My keel, false keel and keelson images are below. I’ve made them much longer than the plans call for as I want to follow Raymond’s lead (see link below to his beautiful build) and add the main mast and yards with their standing rigging. This will allow me to gain some much needed rigging skills as I also plan to fully rig my Confederacy. You can also see the small copper tool I made to shape the notch in the keel after I started the slot using a small wood saw. Hope some of you can follow along and help keep me out of too much trouble! Just don’t expect a fast build please! Moderators, may I have access to the rest of the plans please? Cheers, Nigel. Link to Raymond's rigged cross section: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/5545-hms-triton-148-scale-cross-section-complete)
  24. My full model is just about finished and I am looking into an additional compliment: a cross section of the USS Constitution. I want to build this from scratch and use as much of my abilities and tools as I can muster and try to do a decent job. However, to do research into details are usually not in my bag. But it turns out that I have to . . . The midsection has been covered by others (likewise with the aft section by one adventurer (help who?)), but I would like to show how the crew lived, slept, ate and filled gun powder bags. So, I decided on the area around the ‘stove’. As it turned out this area also shows some guns on the spar deck, part of fore-mast rigging, then more guns on the gun deck, hammocks on the deck below, the ‘sail room’ and ‘gun powder room’ on the orlop deck. But the main feature I like to stress is the hull construction in the forward parts. Hence, the frames, beams, knees and other timbers become part of the story. I am using the book by Marquadt ‘Anatomy of the Ship’ (AOTS) for the main reference. He shows a lot of great pictures of all phases and equipment used on the USS Constitution and I have learned a lot from his information. In particular, I chose the section between the stairs going down from the deck and forward to just ahead of the fore-mast. Using the same scale as my full model (1:76), that is about six inches, or 38 feet real. Page 51 shows a nice top-view of this. In addition, I am still using the drawings that came with my earlier kit of the full model; and here is where I ran into some problems (let’s just call them discrepancies):::::: 1. I mentioned earlier on a different post that the deck beams seemed a bit out of line. In fact the book shows supports at different decks that are not at all above beams below. They simply sit on top of deck planking. I ‘corrected’ that with my interpretation. 2. The frames making up the ship’s hull do not align with the gun-port holes like they should be. Yes, page 61 of the book has clear pictures of the frames, but those are incorrect (in my opinion). The locations of the gun-port holes do not correspond to the full model drawings I have been using. What is worse is that they do not correspond to the locations shown on other pages in the same book. Starting with these two dilemmas, I decided to take some liberties with the design and align the deck beams in a vertical plane and make the body frames along the lines of what Harold Hahn (bless his sole) did with his models. He took two ‘frame’ parts and laminated them to give a more rigid part to work with. Then he decided to eliminate every other one to make the interior more visible. I had to make some assumptions about the frame thicknesses and settled on what I show on the drawings below. This is still not ‘correct’ because the gun port openings should be between frames. But no matter how I juggle the frame thicknesses, I cannot come up with a way to do this unless I use frames of different thicknesses. So, here is where I am now. Mind you, I have not cut any material yet at this stage. I am just learning what to do.
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