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Found 14 results

  1. Here's the pics for my Triton Build. First up was test build of one of the cannon done in 1:24th
  2. This is a older kit picked up from a estate - someone with a large stash of model ship kits. I bought 2 of the last 3 available - I didn’t need the wood for a scratch build Essex so I only purchased the 2 kits. I gather Aeropiccola has been out of the model ship kit business for many years but I can't be sure of the date of the kit. The plans indicate they were published in 1984. Since this an old kit I'll show the contents. I am quite satisfied with the quality of the parts. The plans consist of 2 sheets of detail images and construction expansions. The instructions are very brief but I think the plans are going to guide the build quite well.
  3. Oops! Just realised I had to start the build log to obtain the plans. So here it is. First steps at the cross-section. Cutting the lengths was really easy. The only problem was defining the dimensions as I much prefer to work from CAD and in metric -- and I don't know the original dimensions of the real timbers. So I diligently took the plans into TurboCAD and traced them. The difficulty, of course, is defining which part of the thickness of the lines to take as reference since the drawn lines are 0.38mm wide. This resulted in my having a variance of between 0.1 and 0.2mm between the different views of the keel, keelson and false keel. In the end I just decided on a particular width which seemed closest (e.g. 3.2mm for the false keel) since I reckoned the differences to be so small as not to be worth fussing about. All the same, it might be an idea for beginners like myself to have the original dimensions of the timbers shown on the plans so we can just draw them in CAD. As a result, I also thought I'd wait to see the plans in their entirety before settling on a particular set of measurements for the purposes of 3D modelling in CAD, so I can use the CAD drawings to think about the whole process. As to the rabbet, I toyed with the idea of cutting a scraper, but found that one of my milling pieces fit the profile exactly. So this did not prove a difficulty -- although I am fully aware that longer sections of keel would demand more complex curves and angles. So the following picture shows the progress thus far, and I request access to the plans if that's ok. I'm still working on the last stages of my Sherbourne (anchors and swivel guns) but want to see the Triton plans as soon as possible so that I can work out what I need and how I'll be doing it. Thanks Tony
  4. Hello everyone, after I had so much positiv response about the pictures of my model in the gallery, I decided to start a blog about this ship. About the Dragon is to say, it was a third rate ship, designed by Thomas Slade and build at Deptford. Launched 4.3.1760 and sold 1784. It is not the first ship model I have build, but the first 18th century and framed model. A friend told me about the Bellona and I'm interested to learn more about these ships. My first name is Siegfried and that name is program, Siegfried was the most famos dragon fighter here in Germany, or the only? So I would build the Dragon. I ordered the plans from the NMM and a lot of books from everywhere. Then I started learning. Because the whole ship would be too large in 1:48, I decided to build only the stern part, from the 10th frame backwards. After 3 month I started with the model. That was in the winter of 2011/12. In 2012 a friend of mine was in London and I asked him to take pictures from the models at the NMM. That was a great thing and helped me a lot. In 2013 I visited the NMM and the shipyard at Chatham. Here I saw the Superb, the third ship of the Bellona class. That visit changed a lot, you will see it in the pictures. I changed mostly the color of the hull. I will post the first pictures in a fast pass, to get update with the actual level of work. And please excuse my english. Regards, Siggi
  5. Posto di Combattimanto Which Google translates as "instead of fighting", which I don't think is Panart's intention. A more correct (direct Italian) translation is simply "battle station" which is a lot more appropriate. As far as I can ascertain this isn't based on any real ship, but is a figment of the designers imagination. It is, hopefully an historically accurate depiction of a cross section of a gun-deck based one deck down midships somewhere. During this build I will be constantly referring to the brilliant build of this kit by Cobr@ here on NRG. I make no apologies for this, I only hope my build is half as good. Onward... Bryan
  6. Open the box! The box; 58 x 30 x 6.5cm is not overbig, but a hefty 2kg according to the dispatch note, and it alarmed me enormously when I first took possession of it. It rattled as if every component within was loose and this worried me considerably. When opened it wasn’t as bad as it sounded. All the pieces were sound and tied together, the majority of the rattling must have come from the plastic box of preformed components which were well and truly mixed together! Having travelled 1,110 miles this isn’t surprising! The box contained said stout plastic box compartmentalised to hold the separate preformed components, an A4 manual c/w full colour photographs, a huge “poster” depicting 3 views of the finished build with limited nomenclature, two big bundles of firmly bound lengths of wood and four more smaller ones including what appears to be a short length of broom handle! This I assume is destined to be the mast, and by its huge diameter gives an idea of the big scale of the kit. Lastly the plinth on which the whole kit sits, and which indeed is an integral part of it. This is solid and quite well cut. Several laser cut sheets of various thicknesses were held together in a plastic bag. First impressions were good. The quality of the wood appears very high, as does the quality of the preformed components. The laser cut sheets do worry me a tad, as the laser cuts do leave wide gaps of un-burnt wood, and on thicker pieces this can lead to problems extricating the pieces intact, as I know to my cost. The manual however made me groan. The photos are fairly good, and plenty of them, each with individual items numbered. These numbers correspond to the parts list in the rear of the manual, where are also to be found the diagrams of each of the six laser cut sheets. What did make me groan though were the build instructions themselves. I think the word is minimal! Thankfully this shouldn’t be too complicated a build, but just as well if I had to rely on the instructions themselves. However I’ll persevere, the first job to paint the plinth black… Bryan
  7. Build underway Hi, you may well have followed the link from my temporarily suspended build http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11039-hms-bounty-by-bryanc-artesania-latina-scale-148/ and you'll see the Bounty languishing in the background in the photos below. That build will continue shortly, and probably during breaks form this new build of the HMS Victory Bow Cross Section.
  8. I built the model more than 20 years ago, when I was a student. 2 years ago, while I was clean the dust, the model wrecked. So I decided to restart again. At the beginnig I took the old plan and I started the construction. But I decided to modify the plan and extend the model of 2 bulkheads toward aft. I bought AOTS Convay ed. and I studied the plan. So the result is a mix, no more a kit model, but not just a scratch model. here the pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/fabiusb/sets/72157632793255640/
  9. Here goes my Victory cross section repost on MSW 2.0!! ---------------------- Hello Everyone, I have been a long time visitor to the MSW forums and I have marveled at the craftsmanship and attention to detail displayed in so many of your projects. Now it’s time to share my first build with you. I’ve started small, with a 1:98 scale HMS Victory cross section kit by Corel. While I find the kit to be excellent, it is a simplified model, so I’ll be modifying it to include more detail. As my guides I’ll be using McKay’s and Longridge’s books, hundreds of internet photographs, as well as all of the great information on MSW. I’ve also found the following website very helpful, as it includes a well-reasoned list of modifications to make the kit more accurate: http://www.mountainhaven.com/VictoryXCP/index.html My goal isn’t to follow this list precisely (for example, I won’t me modifying the deck framing to be more accurate), but I will be adding major details such as the step, chain pumps, shot lockers, elm tree pumps, hold well, pump room, and other details. I’m a few months into the project, so it will take me a little while to catch up here. Like many of you, I’ve also removed and reworked/improved some of my earlier modifications to add more detail, so expect some changes along the way. Until the next post, enjoy the “unboxing” photos. E&T My workspace and the kit: The unboxing: Gluing a photocopied plan to a board to create a jig: The finished jig for aligning the frame: Keel, keelson, deck planking, shot locker and pump well installed. Unfortunately I forgot to take a picture of the step, but you’ll see more of that later. The pump well and locker are made from balsa, with a light oak stain. The hold platforms prior to installation: Parts fabricated for installation, including the chain and elm tree pump shafts and the chain pump casings. The shafts will be fitted inside the hold well and pump room and will extend from the hold to the lower deck (gun deck), where the chain pump casings and starboard elm tree pump will be installed. I’ve decided not to paint the model, but to use natural oiled or stained finishes. Any metal fittings will be made from brass or copper. Here, iron fittings are replaced with copper (including barrel hoops). So far, I like the look. Here you can see the framing for the orlop deck being glued, with the fabricated pump room in the background waiting to be installed.
  10. Hi Folks, after 9 months I´m back at service and I open my Shipyard again........ I had some health problems but everything is good and I want to show you my new project.....! The HMS Victory Cross-Section, it shows you the part from the mainmast. I change some things as in the kit. At first I use pearwood 2x5mm and inside 1,5x4mm stripes and second I build light inside the ship. But look, here are the first pictures:
  11. I've built other wooden ship models (Bluenose, solid hull by Scientific; Sailfish by Dumas) and always thought the USS Constitution cross section was a nice model as it showed some interior details and gave a great persective of how large the sailing rig was in comparision to the hull. I also like the scale, which is very close to HO train scale. It allows you to show a lot of detail without being under the magnifying glass all the time. The kit is rated as "intermediate level" and I think that is a good representation. I pretty much stayed at that level, but as you can see from other builders on this site, you can certainly make it as detailed and challenging as you would like. For me the best part of model ship building is understanding how the rigging on these ships worked. Tugging on the threads and watching things move as they did on the real ship is what I enjoy the most. With this in mind please forgive my lack of research and detail in historically accurate paint schemes and other items. I offer this log as helpful guidance to the "intermediate " builder. I've found a lot of inspiration from other logs on this site and am amazed at the skill of the model builders that have taken the time to log their builds. One other heads up, I bought this kit at a garage sale, it had the plans but no instruction book. I was so excited about getting it for $5 that I completely over looked the fact that the main frames were missing. On the way to Sears to buy a scroll saw to cut the frames I stopped at another gargage sale. Turns out they had a Dremel scroll saw and a Dremel belt sander for sale ($5 each), so I bought them and headed home wondering if there was some sort of modeler's mojo attached to this build. Here's the start of cutting out the frames. First frame pinned in place. I used a piece of acoustic ceiling tile as a work surface. Squaring things up and getting reaquainted with the accuracy required for 1:93 scale. A lot of shimming and sanding could have been avoided if I had taken more care at this step. More frames. Deck supports being glued together. They sprung back quite a bit when removed from the board. I should have added about 1/8" more camber at the center of each span. Hull framework completed. A bit ugly but the uneven spacers will be covered by the planking. Deck supports in place. Adding all the deck levels at this point stabilized the hull and still gave good access for the steps that followed. Progressively finishing one level at a time is certainly an option to consider. First plank going in the hold. Clamping was pretty easy. Forming the bulwarks took some careful planning to have the right width to support the rail. Not sure if this is the proper way to add more information, but here goes. Planking the outside of the hull. I thought it best to start with a full length plank to establish a line parallell to the water line. The planking went along smoothly enough. Not much extra in the kit for "copper sheathing". This is all that was left. The foot of the mast glued in place. Starting the deck planking. For the other decks I darkened the edges of the decking to simulate caulking. I wish I had done it for this deck too. The barrels didn't look right with wooden hoops, so I later painted the hoops black. Gluing in the hatch. Test fitting pieces on the lower deck. Gluing the ballast in the hold. Note the temporary retainingg pices. I used crushed limestone from my driveway for the ballast. I crushed it further with a hammer and tried to pick out pieces between 1/8" and 3/16" but some larger ones got by. I used 50/50 white glue and water to keep them in place. Darkening the edges of the decking with a permanent magic marker. I clamped several together at a time to keep the flat surfaces protected. Barrels and furniture glued in place. Painting the copper sheathing. Making the fife rail. Putting in the decking on the gun deck. I wish I had put in some joints with tree nails as an added detail here and on the main deck. I decided to show the port cannons stowed and the starboard cannons ready for action. I found a couple of pictures to use as a guide. Early painting of the cannon and carriage. Recoil line and blocks. I had the plastic blocks from another model but later wished I had used wooden blocks instead. Also the recoil line really should be manila rope, which I changed on the next cannon. To make an axle I drilled a shallow hole in the wheel and glued in a bit of solder. Ready to mount on deck. Checking for location. Mounted on the deck. The second cannon, with manila recoil line. Both starboard cannons in place. The pumps also ready for mounting. The main decking was pretty staight forward. again, it would of been a nice touch to add some joints with tree nails. The railing stanchions and carronades won't be glued down until after the rigging is completed. The ladders to the gun deck were added after the main deck coaming was done. Adding the stairs and channels. Here's a hull support I made out of closed cell polyethelene. The double stanchions for the hammock netting were added. Painted exterior hull. Gun port lids added. Deadeyes and chainplates added to the channels. Gathering up the pieces for the yards and masts. The various pieces tapered and sanded for the yards and masts. Also getting the fighting platform pieces together. Adding the reinforcing sections to the main mast and yard. I used modelers putty to fill in the gaps after sanding the wood slats as smooth as I could. It was a bit messy and took a couple of applications, but knowing it was going to be painted it all worked out OK. The jackstays added to the yards and painted black. Making the stirrups for the foot ropes. I just tied a couple of half hitches around a 1/8" drill bit to make a loop I could later thread the foot rope through. Foot ropes rigged through the stirrups. The stirrups tied through to the yard. Attempting to put the right curve in the foot ropes. Wetting the line and putting on the clamps resulted in "v" shaped foot ropes. This didn't work out so well. I ended up removing/replacing some of the foot ropes after the yards were mounted to the mast. The yards with all the blocks attached. This turned out OK except for a couple of blocks that I attached to the yard that should have been attached to lines that fed through blocks. I should have paid more attention to the rigging instructions as I was looking at the yard plans. Blocks 188 and 198 are attached to lines that are threaded through blocks 185 and 195. Luckily I put in the double blocks as the plan showed so making the fix wasn't a problem. The fighting platform went together just like the plans showed. I went ahead and mounted the platform to the mast. I knew this would mean the lower shrouds would have to be made separately (port and starboard) and be tied to the mast rather than being made in one piece and looped over the mast. Taking this approach gave me a chance to adjust the shroud length so the deadeyes would be pretty even. If you make the shrouds in one piece you just have to lay them out carefully. Turns out, I learned, that's what you have to do anyway. The masts, completed, painted and fit to the hull. I decided to take a break from 1:93 scale and make the display case. I started out with non-glare glass but found out it obscured all the model's details. I ended up using standard glass (28 1/2" x 13 1/4" for the front, 28 1/2 " x 4 1/2" for the sides). The base and top cap were one inch (7/8") boards cut to 5 3/4" x 15 1/2". I rounded over the edges and routed 1/8" grooves for the glass. The side rails were 1/2" x 7/8" x 28 3/8" with 1/8" grooves cut to accept the glass. The rails sit flush on the base, but the cap was relieved 1/8" to accept the rails and lock everything in place. The back is 1/4" luan plywood covered in muslin. The base and cap were rabbetted to accept the back. I used panelling nails to fasten the rails to the base and 1/2" x 6 round head sheet metal screws to fasten the rails to the cap. Finally I tacked a piece of matte board to the base and rails and screwed it to the cap so the cap can be removed. I used pine because it was on hand but will probably redo the wood in something darker to better show off the model. The standing rigging came next. The deadeyes were seized to the shrouds. It was important to position the middle hole of the deadeye at the very bottom before glueing them. This makes reeving the deadeyes nice and tidy looking. A pattern for the shrouds was made, placed on the pin board, wax paper placed on that and then the shrouds were pinned in place. For the lower shrouds I used double half hitches to tie the ratlines to the outer shrouds and clove hitches around the center shroud. I was dissappointed in the results. I put too much slack in the ratlines and didn't keep a close enough eye on keeping the shrouds on the pattern. I thought the tension of rigging them would help a bit but it didn't. For the upper shrouds I switched to just a single loop around the middle shrouds and this made it easier to position the ratlines. Even then I wish I had redone one set of the upper shrouds before putting them on the model. It was about this time that I came across this bit of advice on a bottle of mildew killer and thought it had more universal application. I've seen different schemes for spacing the upper and lower deadeyes while attaching the shrouds to the mast. I used a bit of card stock with the spacing marked on it along with alligator clips to hold the deadyes in place. The rest of the standing rigging went in as the plans called for, working in port and starboard pairs and moving on up the masts. Tensioning the rigging was a bit tricky. The lower shrouds have to be taut enough so that they won't be pulled out of position when the deadeyes at the fighting platform level pull on them. On the other hand you don't want to damage the mast. I could have tightened the lower shrouds a bit more. The deadeyes work just like their full size counterparts and were remarkably good at keeping the tension on the shrouds as I worked. I tied off the tails as I moved up the mast but could've/should've waited until I had the upper shrouds/ratlines in place before snugging up and tieing off the lower shrouds. I started attaching the yards from the bottom up. It's a bit congested but clearly shown on the plans. All the yards in place. I decided the footropes needed to be redone. It's easy to see why it's always better to do things on the workbench rather than on the model. Getting ready for the running rigging. I "relaxed" all the lines by painting them with water to get all the curls out of them. I also stiffened the last 1/2" of each line with white glue to make it easier to feed through the blocks. I followed the sequence shown on the plans and didn't run into any problems. Now that the build log is up to date I can get back to the model. I have to trim out and mount the carronades, glue on the stair railings, add some coils to the pin and fife rails, square up the yards and tuck any left over barrels and rope down below.

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