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Found 790 results

  1. New Member So I started building Amati Ranger 20 years ago when I bought the model in Italy. With the pandemic keeping me quarantined at home, I committed myself to finish Ranger. Once complete I had a Tippecanoe model which was a quick build as it only requires finishing the hull. So keeping with a nautical theme but wanted to build a balsa and tissue paper model, I built the Spruce Goose. Then a neighbor advertised two Midwest Products kits which my wife grabbed for me. The Dinghy was barely started so I just finished building The Dinghy and painted her to match my old Dumas RC Hudson 36. So I do plan to add photos of the RC boat pulling her new dinghy in the future. (I'm waiting for rain to refill the lake and the temperature to drop below 90) I've bought additional Midwest kits and am getting enjoyment of working down in my cool basement on these hot days. I am a sailor but again I'm waiting for rain to re-fill the lake and the temperate to drop before I enjoy my 16' scow again. I will create a true build log when I start my next model.
  2. I started this boat last Fall before I was a member here so I’m actually somewhere in the neighborhood of 80% finished. It's my first nautical build so what might appear to be lightning fast construction is really just a lot of catching up on already completed steps. When I get to the stuff I’m doing now you’ll notice a rather dramatic slow-down! My photos of the early stages of the build are hit and miss and the quality leaves a lot to be desired. It's casual documentation at best. Fortunately, lots of good logs for this boat are already available on this forum so all the nitty-gritty of actual construction techniques have been covered quite thoroughly by far more accomplished builders than I. While this build log certainly isn’t necessary in terms of critical new information, I thought it would be a good opportunity to get familiar with actively using the forum and share some of the things I did differently on my build. My next build log (1:32 Amati Fifie) will be a much more professional endeavor with photos from my “real” camera rather than a phone…I promise! Thoughts on the kit: If you plan to build this kit entirely from what’s in the box, you should be able to get reasonably good results. My kit was missing a few items but nothing I couldn’t make myself so I didn’t pursue replacements. Other than the planks and building jig, I didn’t use much of the die-cut material provided in the kit. Given that I was looking for a little more “texture” out of my weathered boat than the smooth basswood the kit provided, I turned to my bottomless supply of scraps from various projects I’ve done over the years. I wasn’t overly excited about the look of the rope that came with the kit given what an important part of the overall visual impact it has on a boat of this scale (or any scale really) so I opted for the excellent stuff available from Syren Ship Models instead. It’s a dramatic improvement for such a small investment. This kit comes with 6 sheets of what I consider clear/excellent plans and Ronnberg’s book “To Build a Whaleboat” which is half instruction manual and half a history of the whaleboat in general. For me, these items alone are worth the cost of the kit. I was a little surprised that Model Shipways used such a crudely built version of the boat on the box cover. It doesn't come close to accurately representing the quality of the kit and really would have made me think twice about my purchase if I had seen it in person. Your results will most definitely be far better than what you see on the box! 6 sheets of wonderfully detailed plans. Ronnberg's excellent instruction book. The building jig: If I had any advice to offer on this build as a boat/ship modeling novice, it would be to take your time on this particular step. It’s tempting to hurry through setting up your building jig and getting on to the fun part but everything that follows depends on accuracy here. My kit had quite a few small and not-so-small discrepancies between the plans and the laser cut parts so be sure to compare the two and proceed accordingly. Trust the plans rather than the die-cuts. If I had assembled the building jig “as-is” it clearly would have caused issues during planking. This is probably a no-brainer for people with a few builds under their belt but I was a little perplexed as to why the die-cuts wouldn’t be dead-on. I know better now. I would also recommend strengthening the building jig if the slotted joints feel sloppy/loose like they did with my kit. I added small blocks to strengthen and align the joints overall and I think it was worth the minimal effort invested. I may have just gotten a little unlucky with my particular kit but I suspect this is a common issue. The final thing worth noting as it pertains to the jig is investing in a good quality piece of flat material for your building board that’s not likely to deform with changes in humidity. Dead flat and staying that way is a must if you want the bow and stern horses to sit properly and receive the frames without modifications. The frame after it had been removed from the horses. Note the use of small blocks to square up and stabilize things. The planking process puts a lot of stress on this thing so sturdy is good.
  3. Young America - extreme clipper 1853 Part 1 - Decisions I took most of the summer deciding whether I would undertake another ship model and if so, what the scope and subject would be. I had a lot of time to think about this while catching up on neglected home maintenance and repair projects. After deciding that I needed the challenge of another ambitious project, the decisions on scope and subject kept me busy through July. I also had to decide whether I could commit to another Naiad-like build log. We shall see. I received a number of suggestions on subjects and that input is most appreciated. Since I expect this project to span a number of years, the decision was a big one. I have enjoyed wrestling through the process of deciding. I had a number of criteria: 1) significant design/drafting content, 2) fully-framed construction to further explore my interest in structures, 3) a change from the well-trod path of fully-framed 18th Century Royal Navy subjects, 4) avoiding commonly modeled ships, and 5), I thought it was time to do an American ship. Before focusing on the extreme American clippers, I considered, among many other possibilities, a 19th Century American warship, perhaps steam-sail, and looked seriously at some of the ships by John Lenthall, built locally at the Philadelphia Navy Yard – examples: Germantown (sail), Princeton (screw/sail), Susquehanna (paddle/sail). In the end, the idea of the extreme clipper was too attractive to dismiss. To me, this type represents an apex of achievement in wooden sailing ship design and construction – in terms of sleek hull lines, sailing performance, structural development and sheer beauty. In the design of the extreme clippers, minimum tradeoffs were made to the one paramount design parameter - achieving the shortest sailing times between far-flung ports. Speed meant not only sleek hull lines and a spread of canvas, but also the strength to withstand continuous hard driving, day-in, day-out. After deciding on the clipper – and an American (meaning all wood) clipper - I chose the work of William H. Webb of New York. It would have been easier to select something from his more popular competitor, Donald McKay, but McKay’s ships built at East Boston, have long been widely modeled – Staghound, Flying Cloud, Lightning and others. McKay’s papers do include substantial structural detail – very tempting. Webb, too, has left papers, and these have been explored, with information published in the secondary sources I have used. There are many gaps, but there is a family resemblance in details to all these ships and many practices and scantlings were commonly adopted. Webb presented more of a challenge – in more ways than one – as I will describe later. Of Webb’s ships, I chose Young America, built in 1853, his last extreme clipper. Less is known about her construction than some of his others, so the task of piecing her structure together is more interesting. I will discuss this, the ship, and the extreme clipper era in the next posts. Below is a photo of Young America, docked at San Francisco, a frequent port of call for her. She was built mainly for the East Coast to California trade. In the picture she is rigged with double topsails - a modification from her original single topsail rig. There are also some paintings of her. She was considered Webb’s masterpiece – one of his twelve clippers in a list that included renowned ships like Challenge, Comet, Invincible, Flying Dutchman – all of these examples being 200 to 240 feet in length. YA enjoyed a thirty-year career that included fifty passages around Cape Horn. She set a number of sailing records and earned a ton of money for her various owners – and for those who made money betting on passage times. In 1883 she left Philadelphia carrying 9200 barrels of Pennsylvania case oil, cleared Delaware Bay and was never heard from again. The model may be fully rigged. I will decide later. With the hull length involved (240’) the scale is likely to be 1:72, but that is not yet cast in stone. Structural drawings are well along and I expect to start construction later in September. I hope these posts will be of interest and perhaps draw some attention to this somewhat neglected modeling genre. Ed
  4. First encountered this ship in the seminal Ships of the Pharaohs by Björn Landström. More recently I saw again the well know relief from Sahure's grave complex in Shelley Wachsmann's Seagoing Ships & Seamanship in the Bronze Age Levant. Amati has long now provided a kit for this ship, mostly based on Landström's plans, with a few oversimplifications as usual. Started out with forming a basic mold for the hull shape, over which I built the hull shape. The wood used is Linden, stained with a reddish teak water stain and then treated with tung oil.
  5. Hi All, Well I’ve come across some interesting plans for a scratch built Bomb Vessel Granado Cross Section over on Model Ship Builders site. Now I’ve never been known to be impulsive, carry on more then one build at a time or unable to resist the urge to start another scratch build. Talk about going to the darkside! It’s so dark on this side I’m not sure I’ll ever see light again! The Bomb Vessel Cross Section has some interesting details both on and below the deck (i.e. mortar pit and shell room) The plans are based on "Anatomy of the Ship - Bomb Vessel Granado" by Peter Goodwin and original drawings by Thomas Slade. All plans were drawn by Jeff Staudt. In total there are 63 pages of drawings in the set and are very well done. The scale for this build is a whopping 1:24 (½” to 1’) so it will be interesting building something at this scale. The single frame pieces are ½” wide and a completed frame is approximately 13 ½’ wide by 9” high. The keel is ½” wide by 14 ½” long and over 1 ¼” high at its highest point. There are some frames that are doubled so they will be 1” wide! I have some Cherry cut offs from a furniture factory and I will be cutting them down to ½” billets for the frames. I’ll decide the other woods as I go. The main problem I see is turning the mortar and cannon as I do not have a lathe or mill. Oh well I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. So here is a look at a couple of sheets of plans to give you an idea of what it will look like. You also can go to www.modelshipbuilder.com to see more information. Here is a sample of some of the rough cut Cherry I have. You can see that the sides are rough cut so to start I shaved the sides on the saw to clean them and then ripped them. The below pictures show I ended up with two pieces of 1/2" x 3" x 14" and one piece at about 1/8" thick. I will have to run them through the thickness sander to get them to their finished size. This should be interesting and will take a good while to complete.
  6. I have been given this (waiting for it to arrive) as thanks for some online help with an associate, just a little bit of background - in the period of 1942 - 1945 my late farther worked on many aircraft types - Spitfire/Hurricane/Seafire/Mosquito/Wellington/Lancaster and Short Stirling as an airframes fitter. So you can imagine my utter delight when I was told about being given this that I will be able to build in memory of my farther. OC.
  7. Here is my most recent build. I have historically started ships and not finished them, or sidelined them and start something new, so this time I decided to wait until I finished the build before I posted my build log. Although I am not quite finished, I am almost there and will have it completed within a week or so, depends on how long the oars take me. I have not abandoned the other builds I have started, but decided to put them on hold while I work on some slightly smaller projects before moving forward with them. As usual here is the required box opening and contents photos. Everything was well packaged. There is a single sheet of plans that were in Italian, some picture instructions with a few words in Italian. The text instructions had a separate sheet in English. I did have to get my phone to look up some Italian to English translation on a few words in the images and plans, but overall the instructions were adequate. I will make several smaller posts of my progress rather than one large one. More to come shortly.
  8. At long last - having been much diverted over the past 6 months, I will attempt to write a coherent story of this project. In introducing myself I outlined the history of this model which you can read in my earlier postings. Briefly, the model was built by my Uncle Jules (Julius, born 14 Feb 1888) just before 1900, he is photographed with it sailing past him in 1899,so I know it does sail! It has no name. At age 14 Jules went off to sea for six or seven years, serving in several square riggers including the large "Down Easter" Edward Sewall. A few surviving letters home showed that it was at times a very tough life. Among his relics is his sailmaker's palm, and sketch books with some stunningly beautiful miniature drawings of a variety of sailing ships, plus his army issue copper pannikin (bowl) and mug from his first World War service. Sadly he died in Cologne Germany (occupational force) of the influenza epidemic. So this project is my memorial for Jules. My Dad inherited the model in the 1940s and it lived in its cradle on the wall of my parents bedroom until 1968 it was passed on to me. Having had a very quiet life the model was in a pretty sad state. The fore and mizzen masts were infested with woodworm as were several other masts and yards including the jibboom. There were no sails, these having presumably fallen apart over the years, butut the rigging was still recognisable. I was intrigued to discover that the ship had been altered after the sailing photos - in place of a large cargo hatch there is now a smaller hatch, and a deckhouse has been added. You can still see the outline of the big hatch in the decking. The hull is made from a solid piece of timber (lumber) On taking possession I began the restoration by cleaning out the accumulated dust of 60 years or so and fitting new mast sections, and jibboom, plus renewing bulwarks. Then did nothing from 1969 to 2010, except to get a glass case made for it. So for this posting I close now with a few photos of as it was. The fresh paint indicates where timbers have been replaced.
  9. I have been around here for a couple of months reading and admiring other builds, I decided it is finally time to add my little bit. My current build is the AL Mayflower @ 1:64, I started this in June of this year. I won't bother you with the build from the start but will show you how she looks today and will do my best to keep you updated. When I started this build it was my intention to change most of the wood as being recently retired and having lots of time I wanted to utilize my arsenal of new tools. With that I have used pear, blood wood, maple, Osage orange and a couple of veneers I am not sure of the names. When I started this hobby in January of this year I also bought all of Bob Hunt's practicums, so I am also using this a guide. Here are the pictures: There are more coming, it is saying the files are too big although they are all the same size, I will figure it out and send more in a bit
  10. Paragon – a Modified Mayflower Part 1 - INTRODUCTION I started ship modeling in early 2012, and after I finished a couple of kits during that year, my wife half-jokingly said to me that as long as I’m building ship models, I should build “Paragon, the Mad Ship”. This was a character in a series of fantasy novels that we both enjoyed, called the ‘Liveship Traders’, by the author Robin Hobb. The theme of the series is that merchant ships were built of a special wood called ‘wizardwood’, and that after a time the figurehead would come alive and have its own personality. Paragon was a Liveship with a figurehead in the shape of a man. Paragon had been mistreated by its owner and consequently developed a negative outlook and a pretty nasty disposition. In fact, he had turned on his owners and crew, and legend was that he had killed them all. The townspeople called him the Mad Ship, and shunned him. This picture is from the jacket of the book. There were no detailed descriptions of the Liveships in the series of books other than descriptions of the figureheads, since these were personalities within the story. The descriptions of clothing, houses, modes of transportation, and weapons, gave the impression that the period was similar to western civilization in the 1500 – 1600’s. There were no firearms mentioned in the stories, so the ships did not carry cannons. Paragon, and all of the Liveships, were merchant sailing ships that generally gave the impression of ships from the era of explorers. I decided that this would be my first scratch build, but I felt that I needed a good set of plans and building instructions, so I looked for a kit that would be a good base of this fictional ship. I was able to buy plans for the Mayflower, from Model Shipways. The instructions for the kit are available as a free download PDF written by Chuck Passaro, the author of the Phantom instructions that I had already used. Chuck designed the Mayflower kit, and his practicums and instructions are clearly written and present a logical building sequence. The kit model calls for quite a bit of painting, but I decided to ‘paint with wood’ – choosing different woods to show the different colors in the ship. I’ve been working on the ‘Paragon’ since mid-2013, and it’s almost ready for rigging. I’ve been recording my progress along the way, so I thought I’d start this build log to show how I built the ship, and especially to discuss the many mistakes and lessons learned. Much of the building was trial and error (in some cases too many errors and do-overs!) and I hope this log will help others that are thinking of doing their first scratch build. There are some steps that didn’t get captured in photos (I was too busy muddling my way through and forgot the camera). Most of the photography was done with my iPhone, so please excuse some of the poor photo work. Here’s a photo of the current state of the Paragon. I was able to find most of the wood I would use through shopping at local woodcraft and wood supply stores. I decided to use African Pear and Madrone for the hull planking, bulkhead planking, and some visible construction elements. Castello Boxwood would be used for some pieces of ‘deck furniture’ - gratings, knees, capstan, etc. Walnut is used for some deck furniture and moldings. Other moldings were from Holly, Yellowheart, and Bloodwood. I used Sycamore for deck planking. The ship has a couple of black wales, but I didn’t want to mess with Ebony so I used Chimken and stained it to look like Ebony. Since this build is a fictional ship, I’ve been able to use some ‘poetic license’. The ship doesn’t have cannons, so I could skip that part. Since the figurehead will be a prominent part of the ship I needed to redesign the beakhead. I’ll be adding some fancy work to give it a ‘mystical’ appeal, but I’m leaving that until the end.
  11. After deciding to try out this hobby I made my first mistake. I selected a ship that had poor instructions and did not have a single build log on this site. I have put that model on the shelf for now and decided to look for a model more fitting to be built by a newcomer. After seeing and reading the build logs by James H and BE I was very interested in building the Lady Eleanor for my first ship build. The Vanguard model site had the complete manual for this kit available for reading. That convinced me that between the other build logs and the very complete instructions that this was a good kit for a total newbies first build. The model is extremely well built and the directions take a beginner thru the steps assuming you know very little about ship building and terminology. I really appreciate the instruction detail and there are plenty of photos to help visually with the build. The initial building of the bulkheads on to the false keel was very easy. The bulkheads fit snugly into the keel and required no squaring. Here is the ship assembled with the bulkhead and sub structure put together.
  12. The Cutter Alert Build log The Alert kit arrived at a very opportune time for me as I'm fresh from my knowledge of cutters from my recent Cheerful build. Ever since I acquired (1991) the Peter Goodwin book The Naval Cutter Alert 1777. in the Anatomy of the Ship series, published by Conway Maritime press, I have long wished to make a model of Alert. Chris Watton has now made that possible, without having to scratch build everything myself. Before I start however, there are already things buzzing around my head, and points to ponder. Clinker or carvel planking below the Main wale? The kit indicates Carvel whereas Goodwin shows Clinker in his book but goes on to state that Alert was sheathed with copper at Deptford on 30 July 1777. How would this work, I've never heard of coppered clinker, can this be right? However, I'm tempted to look at clinker planking, but I've absolutely no experience of it or even how to begin, so it would be quite a challenge for me. If I do opt for Clinker I imagine one has to start from the Garboard plank and work upward to the wale. Should I go for a carvel base planking and clinker over the top, or go straight for a single planked job as with Cheerful. I may well think it's all too difficult, and build her carvel, but these are all questions I need to resolve before I reach that stage. In the meantime I have to get my build plan organised, which may be some time. B.E. 20/06/2019
  13. Enough of the thinking, time for some doing! My son came good at Christmas with a copy of the Brian Lavery/Geoff Hunt book "The Frigate Surprise", number 165 of the limited edition of 250 which includes the signed Geoff Hunt print, marvellous. I have purchased a Scheppach Deco Flex scroll saw to cut out all those curvey bits. The book includes lots of line drawings including the all important hull profiles which I will scan and enlarge to the right scale then transfer to ply for the internal framing. I intend a double plank on bulkhead method for the hull. I have built 2 hulls this way and like that the 2 layers gives a bit more scope for modification (fixing mistakes!). Next will be creation of a list of timber needed to start. Cheers. David.
  14. This is my first wooden boat model. I chose the Entry level Grand Banks Dory from Blue Jacket.
  15. Hello Model Friends. After much research and more considerations, I decided to build the model of the "ROYAL CAROLINE 1749". The history of the Royal Caroline has been written x times, so I'll give up on more details. After the sparse construction drawings, as well as various to scale without drawings in the book by AotS I have strong doubts about the success of the project, but I try it anyway. The plan drawings by Boudriot, Delacroix from ANCRE publishing house, on the other hand, are top class in their own right, i very first cream. Thanks Mike for the help of the frame drawings. To the model: Scale: 1/48 Wood: German Elsbeere Overall lenght: 655,0 mm I will build the model with visible frames from the second barwood, as well as the interior. I have already installed the "backbone" of the model on/in the slipway building board. There are no photos of the individual parts, smoothly forgotten. Next step is the construction of forty-five douple frames, each frame consists of twelve parts, so I am busy in the near future. Karl (Sorry, Google translator)
  16. Hello everybody, Some time ago I started building Master Korabel Schooner Polotsk kit but I was too lazy/busy to start a build log here. Finally I decided to go ahead and do it. I'll be posting more often until this build log catches up with the build's current state. I have been precisely following the instructions during the process so far and it has been a smooth ride. 1. I started with assembly of the ship's frame. The desing of this kit's frame is very interesting, it has a HDF plate that splits the frame horizontally. This ensures that all bulkheads and the center keel are perfectly straight and perpendicular to each other: 2. All parts have laser cut notches so it was really easy to bevel them: 3. This is how the frame looks like with all lower bulkheads installed: 4. Finally upper bulkheads and the false deck are installed. Note how the deck overhangs in the stern and how thick the timbers are (these will be cut off later):
  17. I recently completed my Ravell USS Constitution I received as a Christmas gift. Five months of work. I am pleased with it. Like most on here I opted to leave the sails off so as to better see the rigging. I am about to start the Ravell Cutty Sark. When I did the Constitution I did not paint the deck. Just left it the cream color right out of the box. For the Cutty Sark I have decided to paint the deck as I have seen a number of modelers do. I was looking on line for hints and ideas and stumbled onto this blog, which I had no idea existed when I did the Constitution. Wish I had. Reading over it now I see a number of ideas and hints I would have employed. Will definitely refer to it during my Cutty Sark build. I have seen several recommended methods for painting the deck and plan to practice them to see which method I am the best at. I have a full pallet of enamel paints I use for my models. Have not tried acrylics, which many recommend. Just my sheer quantity and variety of enamel paints would make starting over with acrylic cost prohibitive. I need to find advice on how to make my own white or dark enamel wash. A number of you use that as a final step when painting the deck.
  18. I'm doing this thread on the HMS Victory which is the current project. I've made good progress on construction, but I'm going to put the construction steps here and let it react before posting the next ones. All texts are those of a French forum, simply translated by Google Translate. Excuse me in advance for grammatical mistakes or syntax ... (2016, December) I have the Artesiana Latina kit at 1/84. The skeleton is mounted, I must attack the hull. This boat once mounted must be about 1m25: big bug! But before plunging headlong into curling for a very long time, I do as usual, a pause to think about what I want, what is done, how to tint, mount, etc ... For this, I gather a large library of models, photos of Victory, various docs. In the kit, no plan to scale, but a dvd and prints format A3. It bothers me a little not to "see" it in real size ... Moreover, I saw many Victory perfectly realized ... it does not interest me to remake! These two facts pushed me to wonder about this boat. I looked for a monograph close to the scale, I just ordered the monograph of the Superb at the AAMM (Association of Friends of the Navy Museum): a 74 french guns of the 18th. Conclusion: I will not do the real HMS Victory! But I will use this base to make a three masts of the eighteenth ... I will choose my colors and shades, change the castle, adapt a balcony or 2, perhaps redo bottles, adapt the kit in fact. I am going to make MY model respecting the historical codes, but not a copy of this ship. Of course, I will use the elements of the kit, but I will extrapolate according to my desires. In short, we'll see! Here is the end of sanding couples and keel (a long time to do everything clean), gluing the whole and a first bridge just screwed to maintain properly and check the squareness (2 couples deformed on the top, but nothing irrattrapable). I have a little attacked the sanding to border, but this step will be long, I will be very careful and take my time. It's so important to place strakes next.
  19. I decided to try to build models in bottles - this is my first attempt!
  20. Recently our club, Shipwrights of Central Ohio, was queried about restoring an old family heirloom. We were sent photos of a scratch built galleon with uniquely painted sails. The next day I was digging thru that "I'll get to this soon" pile of plans and I opened an envelope with plans from Popular Science, dated 1926. The picture of the finished ship on the instruction booklet reminded me of the photos we had seen at our meeting. After some quick phone conversations with my mates, I contacted the ship owners. The ship, the Nuesta Senora de Afortunado, had been built by their father in the thirties and refurbished by him in the seventies. The instructions confirmed that the plans I found were for the same ship---we had a million in one event! The owners and I transferred the ship at our Oct club meeting. We were all able to inspect the ship and compare it to the plans. We spent some time afterwards discussing the job and restoration philosophy. With plans and ship in hand the restoration starts.
  21. Do you remember your first model? My shipmodeling began with DeAgostini's "Grand Sailboats" magazine in 2010...
  22. this is LSY95 yacht ship model Scale: 1/30 Length: 95cm Material: resin + plastic + wood
  23. Hi everybody, I actually started this November of 2016. for a long time I didn't want to create a build log because all I have for a camera is an Iphone se. I didn't take many photos up till now, but I will from now on if the photo quality is ok. Even tho I'm about halfway done here are the few photos I have so far. This is the first model I have built since Revell kits 25 years ago when I was 11 years old. So you won't see anything fantastic here The first few photos is after the hull and deck have been completed. Some photo etch and deck fittings ready for paint with Tamiya Sky Grey before weathering and after weathering. this is the first time i have ever weathered. It's not a good job but it is what it is. More photo etch. Also the smallest set of stairs i have ever seen. And painted along with some guns shes wondering why I have been working on my model for 6 hours forgeting to take her for a walk These Veteran Model mini kits of the various guns are so great. The detail is amazing! my work bench And finally some railing work brings us to where i am now with the model.

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NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

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Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
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