Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'mantua'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • How to use the MSW forum - **NO MODELING CONTENT** 
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for SHIP MODEL KITS - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for SCRATCH projects - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
    • Photographing your work. How to do this.
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Non-ship/categorised builds
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Questions and discussions about building the kit
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Build Logs for the CAF Granado Cross MID-Section

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

  1. Guess this time I'll start at the beginning. I'll spare the group the open box pictures. I did inventory everything in there. It's all there. The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality. The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them. I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots. Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible. The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials. Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed. I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step. As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them: This thing is big!! I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that. Wish me luck! - Tim
  2. Hi all, Here l am once again with my third wooden ship build. I have chosen this particular build for two main reasons, firstly, l would like to build HMS Victory but have not the room to display one of the large models l have seen, good grief, the Caldercraft example is bigger than the wife. The second reason is that I like the idea of posting the first completed build log for this particular model, l might be wrong, but l don't think one has been completed. The postman delivered my package today and l started on it immediately. I must admit to being a little apprehensive as l was a bit concerned as to why no other example has been posted, was it a poorly designed model, was the wood of poor quality, or perhaps, as someone remarked at the end of their attempt "it's un buildable". l will see, whatever the reason it will be a great challenge. And here she is, the box art is very nice even if what l find inside isn't. Well the paperwork, instructions and plans look great, so far so good. They look quite detailed and seem straightforward enough at first sight, although there seems to be a lot of numbers and arrows. I expect it will be clear when l study them. The nice colour instruction book looks interesting, these pictures should help no end, as they say "a picture paints a thousand words" It is written in several languages so, to make things a bit easier, l shall go through first highlighting all the English wording. All the fixtures and fittings (for want of a better phrase) look good, although l haven't undone the individual packets. The laser cut plywood is as good as you could want and l am very pleased with it l must say. The strips of wood for the planking is of a disappointing standard. Now, is it a disappointing standard because the rest is so good....... l shall have to carefully sand each strip before l use it. Here you can see the framework dry fitted, it was a very fiddly task but each piece fitted nice and snug. I am glad to report that my first impression of the wood quality and cutting precision was correct and everything is straight and true. Ha ha, Mantua recommend inserting the frames with a hammer, l do not. The wood is, as l have already said, good quality but not very robust. The stern pieces also fit well. During my next session l will look at filler blocks and the tapering of bulkheads. Best wishes as always, The Lazy Saint. Session. Time. Total. 01. 3 hrs. 3 hrs.
  3. So I ordered this kit and it is out for delivery today. It's my first large wood model kit and the first model kit in over 30 years. I was an avid modeler of mostly plastic kits until College. I'm a few years from retirement and decided to restart my hobby. I have been reading the abundance of material on this site and watching many videos. I'm looking forward to the challenge. I've found these kits for this ship as far back as the 1980's but have no idea when the first wood model was. I found it listed on many sites but most were out of stock with no idea when they would be restocked. I paid more for it than I should have but I found the last one available from an Amazon store and decided to pull the trigger anyway. I will appreciate any feedback, positive or negative on the build and any suggestions as well. Attached is the manufacturer's photo Thanks
  4. Hi all Im new here. Today i complete finaly my first ship model Golden Star im just learning .. it was good jorney, and want continue to the next one, but bigger ship Sorry for my english... Now i want to share my first work :)) Next model i will shot more photos about it:)
  5. Now that I have reconstructed my Bounty Jolly boat buildlog, I will redo my Golden Star log. I started building the Golden Star almost the same day I finished the jolly boat - getting hooked on this hobby It was rather a random choice to build this model - it was basically what the store had in my budget that I thought I could build. It is very much built as a learning process before I start on some of the ships I really want to build - the Bounty being one of them. Especially with regards to planking and the rigging - after the jolly boat the rigging on the Golden Star looks rather daunting - but thats equal to a good challenge And it certainly has been a learning process already - mainly with the planking (but then, at the time of writing, the planking is "all" I have done ). Please feel free to comment or ask questions. So time for some pictures:
  6. Hello, I am new to ship modeling although I have been modeling most of my life. I started as a child with plastic, then I got into railroading then into U-control flying model airplanes. I scratch built several planes and won some contests. I have always wanted to build a wooden sailing ship and now I am going to do it. I have decided to build the Astrolabe by mantura. I have read AEW's built several times that was posted in DDM before it went away, in fact AEW sent me the entire build by email. I have also studied Hubert Sicard web site and he has several good ideas. My building plan for the hull is as follows:Assemble the keel and the bulkheads. Make sure everything is square and symmetrical. Add the false deck. Add filler blocks at the bow and stern. Run the first planking between the filler blocks as Hubert suggested. Cut the timber heads off the bulkheads as Hubert suggested. Plank the deck following the Ulises Victoria plans. Ad a solid bulwark, locat the gun ports, plank the inside of the bulwark. Pre-drill the timber heads for side tackes and breeching ropes. Then apply the second planking and finish the hull. I think that this metholology will produce a fine looking hull. Please, some of you experienced ship builders, let me know what you think of my plan. Your input would be greatly appreciated. I have pictures but they are on my laptop so I will have to add them later.
  7. This is my first build log (please forgive me if it lacks pertinent info) for this ship kit, however, not my first build. I finished a little schooner years ago but cannot remember the brand nor year I purchased it (sorry). I can post some pics of it if anyone is interested. I started the Albatros about 6 years ago but then life happened and it had to be put into storage. I no longer have the box it came in but luckily I haven’t lost any of the parts. I don’t know much about this type of ship other than it was built around 1840 at the Baltimore shipyards. It was designed to defend the Atlantic coast with its speed and easy maneuverability. The kit came with a false deck where the bulkhead frames of the hull do not come above the deck. The instructions had me plank the deck with individual planks before planking the hull. This is as far as I progressed. I didn’t place any caulking material between the planks and now I wish I had. I made tiny pinhole marks on the timber to resemble nail heads. At the time, I decided I wanted to distress the deck planking but now I’m rather regretting it. I’m guessing a wood stain would help conceal the damage? I haven’t applied any sealer to it yet thank goodness. I would like to construct a better keel clamp before I move forward as the one I have now is quite awkward and unreliable. I’ve seen many tutorials for this so hopefully next time I post I will have something to show you. That’s all I have for you now, and please, any suggestions/advice will be appreciated by this amateur builder😄 ~ Rachel
  8. Hello and welcome to my log of the HMS Victory by Panart this is not a rolling log as I built the ship before discovering MSW this was my first model ship I completed it in around eleven months ,knowing what I know now about ship building I would have spent more time and added much more detail however I am happy with the results and would like to share the images with you all as from time to time in my other logs you may hear me refear to the victory thankyou for viewing and please enjoy the following steve
  9. Started the HMS Victory the other night and already caught my first mistake with the bulkheads. Bulkheads number 4 and 5 were in each others position. They look very simular with the exception to the very top. Ended up cutting the the false deck plates (no:15 & 16), chiseling the glue join very carefully and as a unit rotated the unit into the proper position. Very lucky! Now re-glue and add some additional bracing under the false deck plates.
  10. After a few years of building model boats I’ve finally decided to do a build log of Mantua Models Trotamares due to being unable to find a build log anywhere. I normally use build logs as a helpful guide when the provided instructions are a little sketchy. Hopefully I’ll not have too many problems with this build.
  11. Well I got the kit last night. UPS came at 8:00PM. I had ordered it from Model Ship Building College in Australia. (it was little lower cost) According to the internet tracking it made 27 transfer on it's way here. the shipment came through Europe,London, New York, Miami, to Palm Beach Gardens I am not going to unpack it any further than that. I'll do it as I need the parts I do not intend to finish it like the pictures in the box. I am going to paint the hull flat white, and tone down the finish everywhere. Also I intend to put lights in it like the model of the "Portland" that I just finished. A quick review of the drawings and part show that Mantua took some liberty in making this kit a true "Scale Model". The paddle wheel scales out to be 28 ft in Dia where it should be in the 16 - 18 range. The aspect ratio of the model makes it appear short and tall.
  12. I started my build on the Amerigo Vespucci in March 2019. Here are photos as I progressed thru the build. Still a way to go. Progress up to the end of Manual # 5 I decided to add LED's to the build and here I have wired it up with 70 LED's.
  13. Previous Build Logs Portland Paddle Wheel Steamer https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19493-portland-by-tom-in-nc-finished-bluejacket-shipcrafters-scale-18-my-re-entry-into-the-model-ship-world-after-a-45-year-absence/ Cutty Sark by Mantua https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19525-cutty-sark-by-tom-in-nc-mantua-sergal-scale-178-after-a-45-year-hiatus-i-thought-id-come-back-and-do-something-easy/ Chaperon Steamship Re-imagtined https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21519-chaperon-by-tom-in-nc-–-model-shipways-148-scale-–-renamed-“jezebel”-and-given-a-new-reimagined-history/ Caveat This build log is being submitted after-the-fact. I started this project in March 2020 – just as the COVID pandemic was hitting full stride -- and was so immersed in it for the next nine months (finished the build in late November 2020) that I was quite lax about my photography and writing out my procedures. I’ll submit this anyway as I’m sure there will be many builders who will take this challenge on themselves, but I apologize for the brevity of the thing. This model is certainly not for beginners. If you have some experience and know what you're doing the final result will be very satisfying. Purchase and Start-up When shopping for this model in early 2020 I found there were very few to be found. European sellers were not parting with it for whatever reasons (taxes, trade barriers, ???). But I happened upon a kit that was available right away at Model Expo in Florida. On their web site at the time there were some interesting comments from the founder of Model Expo that tell of his years-long relationship (since 1971) with the designer of this kit, Sergio Fabrizi -- who has since sold the rights to this kit and others to Sergal. I’m not sure, but I suspect that the model I got was previously owned and repurchased from the original buyer who stashed it on a shelf somewhere. It was in great shape, and I don’t feel I was cheated, but read on to see why this matters. The instructions that come with it are printed in a variety of languages, and I don’t mind saying, the translations leave a lot to be desired if you are an English-speaker. But there’s a helpful solution. Supplemental English instructions for the Mantua 1:78 scale HMS Victory (version ART 738) are available as downloadable .pdf files (gasp) for free … my kit is an earlier version (ART 782) but the differences are not great. https://www.mantuamodel.co.uk/downloads/2-uncategorised/37-english-translations Scroll down the page and you will find 4 downloadable files – English translations for the ART 738 version of the HMS Victory. These instructions were great. There is also a file re planking at the top of the list, and I found it immensely helpful. I’ve planked two ship models before, but I’m far enough from being an expert that every little bit of guidance helps. The kit seemed to be in good shape -- even though it showed some signs of being on a shelf somewhere for quite a while. At first glance all the bits and pieces seemed to be included. Later on, I discovered some shortages. My garage work area was ready … I mentioned that the English instructions I downloaded for ART 738 were a little different than for my ART 782 kit. One of the differences between the two kits is that some parts included in the later kit are made from brass, while in my kit they are mostly made from thin, printed plywood. They are OK, simply different than what I expected. How I dealt with them will be covered later. The laser-cut bulkhead and keel elements were well made, and I had little problem with alignment and assembly. Note that I used the Veritas twin-screw vice at the end of my homebuilt workbench to hold things in place while assembling the keel. Next step was installing and planking the lower gun deck. As you can see, I took the time to cut a good many deck boards in advance. Problem with that was that I cut these elements from some 0.5 x 4 mm boards provided. I should have used the 0.5 x 3 mm boards the instructions called for. Grrrr. Luckily, I caught this mistake before gluing any in place. It’s hard to measure the difference between widths of 3 and 4 mm. I switched to the 0.5 x 3 mm boards, and after getting about ½ the lower gun deck done I realized that I didn’t have anywhere near enough of them to finish the lower gun deck, let alone all the main deck elements that would come later. Grrrr again. I fired off an email to Model Expo, admitting my mistake with the 4 mm planks and describing the missing 3 mm pieces. While waiting for what I hoped would be a satisfactory resolution I elected to start assembling the lifeboats. There are 4 different lifeboats. They are also plank-on-bulkhead challenges, but much smaller. I used Gorilla Glue gel on the lifeboats because it does not drip like many glues, and it grips wet boards quickly. Since I would be painting these little devils later the white residue that the gel leaves won’t be bothersome, but you need to be very careful using gel where a white residue cannot be disguised. After waiting for a week, and not hearing back from Model Expo I just assumed that they had to close shop because of the Covid-19 virus. So, I proceeded to hunt for the planking I needed online. Another of my favorite model-making supply shops came through in spades. Ages of Sail https://www.agesofsail.com/ shipped me a supply of 0.5 x 3 and 0.5 x 4 walnut strips within a week. Great quality too. While I waited (I am obviously not very good at waiting) I finished the lower gun deck with some of the 0.5 x 4 mm planks I had pre-cut knowing that they wouldn’t show very much when all was said and done. I also painted the lower deck bulkheads with the ochre yellow paint called for. Found some artist acrylic stuff on Amazon that worked great. Have enough left over to do 2-3 more ships With the lower gun deck “complete”, and with the new supply of walnut deck planking, I put away the partially completed lifeboats and moved on to installing and planking the main deck. When the deck planking was complete I coated each deck with Minwax water- based, matte finish, polyurethane. Great stuff. Planking the Hull Note that you need to bevel the edges of several bulkheads so that the planking can wrap around them properly and provide a good gluing surface. The black boards you see inside the bulkhead structure are where you will mount the cannons eventually. By the way, one HMS Victory build log I have read included some comments about the wood being so brittle that it cracks when bending it. That will almost always be the case unless you soak the wood. I found an appropriately sized plastic tray at Lowe’s that allowed me soak my hull wood for quite a while before attempting to bend it. It’s really quite flexible when thoroughly wet. I use small nails to hold the planks in place while the glue dries. I use pin insertion pliers designed for that purpose (https://www.micromark.com/ ) and the nails go in easily through wet boards. When I got to the point of tapering the planks into the stern I realized that other than some pictures there were no instructions to help me decide how to do that. See how the planks end awkwardly in the picture below. So I fashioned some “filler” pieces from scrap plywood that allowed me to wrap the planks around to a better position. Appearance didn’t matter much in this first layer of hull planking, so I “sculpted” the area with wood filler. The final planking layer would later cover that. Pretty ugly, but effective. The rest of the initial planking at the rear was again something to figure out from pictures – little or no instructions. The way I look at it, the initial planking is where you establish the right curvature and shape of the hull. The fact that it’s ugly doesn’t really matter. Wood filler rules !!! Once the first course of planks is laid you can start filling, sanding and smoothing. The metamorphosis is very satisfying. You start out thinking “this is not going to work”, but somehow it does. Somewhere along the way I decided that it might be a good idea to try on the template that determines where the cannon ports will eventually go. The directions didn’t recommend this – but I had a premonition. I first marked the position of the bulkheads, then positioned the template. Sure enough, some of the the cannon ports lay right where a bulkhead lurked beneath (see the lines showing up below). I still don’t know why that happened, but forewarned is forearmed, and I knew that when it came time to cut the ports I’d have to make adjustments. So. on to the second layer of planking, and this time appearance counts a lot more. The planking instructions I suggested that you download from the Mantua site were quite helpful. They aren’t specific to this model, but they give you step-by-step advice re tapering boards and filling the curved spaces efficiently. The final sanding and shaping is very important. I'll try to file the next installment of this build log in a few days.
  14. Hi one and all. This post was originally written on 26th December 2020. For a build thread on another forum, but I have decided to move it all to here. First a back story: I bought this particular kit after exhibiting at the first London Model Engineering Exhibition held at The Alexandra Palace in 1996, yes almost 25 years ago! At that time I was building and showing RC boats and racing Tamiya1/10 off road cars whilst assisting at the Chesham Model Shop in Buckinghamshire, who were the UK importer of Wedico boat and truck kits. They had a stand at the Model Engineers Exhibition and I was able to attend every day so had lots of time to browse around. One divorce and five homes later I think that I should at least start it and hopefully see it through to completion. This kit is fairly straightforward plank on frame construction with just a few fiddly bits. The most obvious change in this kit since I bought it is that now wooden parts in kits are laser cut whereas this kit has all the frames and other ply parts either partway machine cut with a router or just printed on solid wood that will need to be cut out with a fretsaw. The next post will be the build start. Colin.
  15. Hi ship bulders, this is my first wood model and I like to share my build log with you, so by your comments I can learn to build wood model ships better. From other posts I know, that Golden Star is not very realistic ship | brig, but I started to do it more by myself, so some details will be different from original. I hope, that this will do it more realistic and more detailed as is a kit model. Also I want to learn build wood ships and work with wood. As you can see on last picture, I haven't a big table for building, but it enough to me, because this is table made by me, so I feel better . I started to built a ship year ago, so I will post the steps up to now in short time.
  16. Here's my USS Constitution kit, I got this off of craigslist for $25.00. I had to get it at that price. So I'm taking the first step. Step 1: - Open the Box. Step2 : Make sure it's all there. Step3: Get a "Dry Dock" workstation going. I went ahead and took an old aquarium stand (48 gallon) and added the 2x4 supports to hold an overhead 2 bulb flourescent lighting system. I am an old fart, and I need bright lights to help me see better. I have nestled this Dry Dock in between my "Rockhounding" and "Lapidary" collections. My first chosen task - made a "Build Board". Or maybe some call it a "keel Clamp". Well that's all for today. According to the "instructions" my first task is to cut out all the bulkheads, and mount them. Hopefully I will get time to do this part sometime this week. I really hope I haven't started to early, cause I have a lot of other things to take of. Like looking for a job, and writing automatic stock trading programs.
  17. ***Royal Caroline 1749 - Panart / Mantua Models*** Hello my friends!! It has been a while, a few months actually after completing my Santa Maria project. It was a joy to build and a honour to receive all those warm responses! I hope not to let you guys / galls down with this new project! During my absense I moved to a new house and I have been busy to make it a home. My last house was a temp. rental and the place had limited space. Due to the limited space I had to build my SM in the kitchen at the kitchentable. Our new house has enough space to have my own buildingplace, but I desided not to move to a seperate room. I liked working in the kitchen which is close to my family members in the house and so I'm not so isolated. Having small kids, this suits my family best. I do not use powertools, so I can easily clean up my workplace after working on the ship. What to choose... So, I had some difficulties to make a choice of a model for my next project. I narrowed my search to go for an Italian manufacturer like Amati, Corel or Mantua / Sergal / Panart, Euromodel. I had a specific budget for my next model as well, so that narrowed my search again. At last I desided to go for a English, Dutch or French 17th or 18th century. By this a few model ships were left on the list and I choose Royal Caroline of Panart, which is part of Mantua Models. The history of HMY Royal Caroline 1750 HMY Royal Caroline was a ship-rigged royal yacht. She was ordered in 1749 to replace HMY Carolina as Britain's principal royal yacht. She was built at Deptford Dockyard under the supervision of Master Shipwright John Hollond to a design by Surveyor of the Navy Joseph Allin. She was launched on 29 January 1750 and was broken up 70 years later, in 1820. Service Royal Caroline was first commissioned under Captain Sir Charles Molloy, who commanded her until 1753. Captain Sir Piercy Brett took over in 1754, and in August 1761 she became the flagship of Admiral of the Fleet Lord Anson, with Captain Peter Denis as his flag-captain. Anson had orders to convey Duchess Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz from Cuxhaven, Kiel to marry George III. Accompanying the yacht, renamed HMY Royal Charlotte in honour of the occasion, was a squadron of warships and four other royal yachts, HMY Mary, Katherine, Augusta and Fubbs. During the return voyage the squadron was three times blown over to the Norwegian coast by westerly gales and took ten days to reach Harwich, which it did on 6 September 1761. Royal Charlotte was commissioned under Peter Denis in December 1763, and remained under his command until 1770. Denis was succeeded by Captain John Campbell that year, and Campbell remained in command until his promotion to rear-admiral in 1777.[1] Royal Charlotte was recommissioned under Captain William Cornwallis in March 1783, and he was succeeded in turn by Captain Sir Hyde Parker in 1788. The yacht was briefly recommissioned in December 1792, but was paid off the following year. French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars She continued to be used for official occasions during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars, with King George III making frequent trips in his yachts to welcome returning fleets and to conduct fleet reviews. The King embarked on Royal Charlotte in 1797 to visit the fleet at the Nore after the Battle of Camperdown, in order to honour Admiral Adam Duncan. Contrary winds however prevented the ship from reaching the mouth of the Thames, and instead the King was blown back up river to Greenwich. Royal Charlotte recommissioned again in May 1801 under Captain Sir Harry Neale, though by February 1804 Captain George Grey was in command. Grey was succeeded later in 1804 by Captain George Henry Towry, and he in turn in 1805 by Captain Edward Foote. By this time Royal Charlotte had been succeeded as the principal royal yacht by the introduction of the slightly larger HMY Royal Sovereign in 1804. Captain Foote commanded the yacht until 1812, when Captain Thomas Eyles took over command, and in June 1814 Captain George Scott became her commander. Royal Charlotte continued in service until July 1820, when she was finally broken up. source: Wikipedia The ins and outs of the box The box itself is made of cardboard. The typical standard in boxland. Shape of the box is long and narrow to hold wooden and metal parts. The boxart and artistic layout of colorfull images on the box scream "buy me and build me" Also a common standard in boxland! Everthing is neatly organized and sealed. The small ornaments and metal parts does look very good. After a look at the drawings however I recognize the Italian "style" of organized "chaos".... I will have a handfull on the poor drawings and poor instructions.... So, the wood looks nice doh... The pre-cut laser parts look good as well....just make sure I'll sand off the burn of the laser for a good fix between the wooden parts.... In a nutshell does the kit look very promising and a joy to build for sure. I'm not sure about some details, alternations and colorscheme yet, but this will become clear during my log of this build. Technical specifications and size Lengte: 830 mm Hoogte: 600 mm Schaal: 1:47 Part no: MM750 The build begins! Sheet 1 figure 1: it begins, bulkheads and "false" keel To start the build, first I have to number all the bulkhead parts and also the false keel. Preperation is everything they say... After numbering the parts, It's time to release them from their imprisonment! To clean up the parts, I use a 80grid sandpaper to sand off the burn of the laser. It's time to try a dry-fit of the parts. And I was very impressed with the overall fit of the parts. It didn't need to much adjustment at all and all fitted nicely. After this I will glue the parts into place, but that will be for the next update. The log and build has started and I hope you guys will follow me allong the way. See yah! Peter
  18. Just started this project as a gift from my grandchildren, as well as the box kit I also added the paint set, with brushes and cement from the shop after reading the instructions This was followed by balsa and a stanley knife after see this site when I got stuck The model build is well documented in HMS Victory by The Lazy Saint - Mantua - Scale 1:200 - Third wooden ship and I am sooooh very grateful for that effort, I would like to contribute the difficulties I find as an aid to any other novices stumbling the same path I just followed instructions and dry assembled to this step . I am uncertain as to cutting the masts which I inserted to align the decks because the dimensions dont say if from measurement is from the deck, or lower up to the limit of sitting on the keel so i'm reading the Anatomy of The Ship which i can probably scale the drawings to check
  19. This is my First Attempt at a Wooden Ship Model The Mantuna Hms victory Build 1/200 story so far one thing the guns are they all painted black, and the port coverings they are red underneath and side what on the top are they black
  20. I started working on this model about a month ago. My dad and I FaceTime when we find a few hours to work on our respective models. I don’t have too many pics of it from the beginning and have finished the first planking. This is my second kit/build, my first being the AL Scottish maid. Mantua seems to not use as high of quality materials and I didn’t think that there could be any possibly worse instructions than AL, but here we are. I’ll be filling both sides in with wood filler today and sanding the hull down to start second planking this week.
  21. I began building the Mantua Roman Bireme kit a few weeks ago. I’ve read and studied so many of the building logs here at MSW and the information here was invaluable. This log is my thanks.. The wheel may have been labeled as “mans greatest invention” but my personal opinion is the wooden ship is not only the greatest invention but they are also the greatest work of art ever created. I feel very fortunate to have “discovered” the beauty and importance of the wooden ship through the modeling world. Ok, now on to the build. I am a beginner builder . There will be numerous mistakes and odd ways of getting things done but I am enjoying every minute of it. Here’s the kit. Everything seems to be here. I haven’t gone through the inventory list but so far I am impressed with the quality. The laser cut sheets look accurate and clean. I’ve built a temporary stand. The keel had a slight twist to it so I’ve added some metal “L”brackets to hold it true while the bulkheads were attached. The first bulkhead. Here is the decking attached. I had trouble fitting it due to the extreme bends at the bow and stern. The laser cuts were accurate but would not fit until it was all the down on the bulkheads. I ended up cutting the notches wider for an easier fit. Ready for the first planks! (not exactly…. forgot to add the bulkhead blocking). Bent planks ready for glue Here is my poor mans bending machine. An old soldering iron clamped to the bench and The bass wood plank soaking in an old peanut jar. Spare no expense! But hey, it's working. The stern planks twisted and glued. Here, I finally realized I needed bow and stern blocking. It would have been much easier to fit these blocks before those first planks. Oh well…not too late, I hope? My foredoom tool will make short work of carving these blocks. Here are the completed stern blocks. If only I would have remembered them before the planks and deck. I am new at this and it shows. After staining the interior that will be seen when finished, the planking begins! It’s a much more stressful task than I had expected. I’m moving too fast and being too forceful…I have already broken four pieces. Here I had to create something that would hold the planks at the stern. This is a very difficult area. I’m not sure what I will do when there is no room for the screws. I’m hoping the answer will come while I’m supposed to be sleeping. Take note of the deep dent on the plank. It looks like my finger nail dug into that soft basswood. My solution was to use a wet rag with the soldering iron. I laid the rag over the dent and steamed it with the soldiering iron. It worked! The dent is gone! What a relief, I have many more dents to take care of. Well, that’s it for now! Thanks for looking! D_Mc To be continued...
  22. Hello everybody, the builging of the "Royal Caroline" from the beginning, many pic's are too large too download here That's all for today, next one, tommorow, friendly, Dom.
  23. Hi and welcome to my build log of the Liveship Vivacia. This model is not based on a real ship but comes from the fantasy novels by Robin Hobb. My ambition is to build the Bounty, but I feel that I need more experience before I start such a project, especially in the areas of square sail rigging, hull planking and general component building (- basically everything, haha). So I have decided to build the ship that first got me interested in sailing ships when I read the books nearly 20 years ago. The books are fantasy novels based on a pre-gunpowder medieval style era, the ships mentioned are Caravels, Carracks, Cogs, Galleys and unspecified fishing and row boats. I have long wondered if it is possible to make an acceptable and “realistic” model simply from a novel. Repeated reading of the 3 novels in which this ship appears has convinced me that there is enough information to build a model that will fit in with the detailed description in the books. The Liveships trade along the coast and up and down certain rivers -think the eastern coastline of the North and South Americas - and while well-built and very expensive, are not ostentatious. The Liveship Vivacia is a merchant carrack/caravel style ship with at least two masts, raised fore and aft decks and transom stern. Due to a certain set of circumstances, these ships (made from a silvery grey wood), and the figureheads, eventually become sentient, hence Liveship. I know what you are thinking……. I won’t mention the magic and the dragons……… So I searched for a donor kit, eventually settling on the Pinta kit from Mantua. This kit has the required raised fore and aft decks, is multi masted, and a flat transom. It has square sails on the mainmast and foremast, with a lateen sail on the mizzen mast. Whilst the lateen sail won’t help with learning for the Bounty and is not specifically mentioned in the books, I’ve decided to keep it. To start off here are the pics of the kit contents; The kit itself is of a pretty good standard: single-layer hull planking in walnut, pre-printed sails, brass turned cannons and swivel guns, pre-formed pintles/gudgeons and other fittings already blackened, pre-cut decking, usual kit style blocks and triangular deadeyes and the usual laser cut plywood. This kit will need to be extensively kitbashed to achieve the result I am after and I expect this will be a project that will last me the next few years. I hope you will find this interesting and for those that wish to follow please pull up a chair, the beers are in the fridge! Cheers, Paul
  24. The last two ships I did were the Mantua Victory and the Panart San Felipe, and the next one in the pipeline was the Mantua Sergal Soleil Royal. Although the Soleil Royal would present a challenge in terms of complexity, it wasn’t going to be substantively different than the previous two big ships. I wanted to do something a little different. Of all of the ship models I’ve built, the one that seems to interest most people is the cross section of the USS Constitution. In a true "it seemed like a good idea at the time" moment, I decided to spice things up by building the Soleil Royal with the sides open and with the inner works displayed. I started the project a while ago and haven't done a build log because I didn't want to start a log I couldn't finish. But the good news is that I finally finished the project and I'd like to share the build experience with you. The bottom line is that I learned a lot and in retrospect would have done some things differently. But I'm happy with the end result. As you can see, I used all of the materials in the kit, so in addition to describing the cutaway work, I'd also like to share some ideas on building the Soleil. In planning the project, I had three big challenges. First, I wanted to use all the metal decorations and as much of the kit as possible, so I was limited as to size and scale. Second, I was concerned about structural support and warping, given that there wouldn't be the normal internal structure of an actual ship or model. Third, and most challenging, I had no real idea how the actual ship looked inside. There was a lot of information on ships of that period and the Wasa and Victory are available for study. I was really lucky and found a book in the Auckland Library by the guy who ran the project to restore the Victory after it was damaged by bombs during WWII. Accompanying the book is a box containing 17 (huge) sheets of plans. There is one for each deck and it was exactly what I needed. The plans had more than enough detail and with my other research I was now able to create a reasonable (but admittedly not 100% certain) picture of how the Soleil Royal may have looked inside. My first challenge was to copy the plans which I managed to do by tracing. The Victory plans are about 30% bigger than the model of the Soleil Royal so the next challenge was to draw detailed plans to scale based on the actual dimensions of the model. I needed to keep to the model dimensions because I was going to use the stern and bow decorations provided with the kit and therefore had to use the kit dimensions. Every time I thought I had solved all my problems, something new and interesting would come up. As I tried to map the dimensions of the Victory deck plans onto the Soleil Royal model plans, things weren’t making sense. I realized that the problem arose because the ship model takes certain liberties with scale in order to make the model look good. These ship models, because of their scale, necessarily have to make tradeoffs between aesthetics and historical accuracy. For one thing, the guns and gun ports are larger than they would have been on a real ship and the rigging is much less complex. Unfortunately, because I was going to use the bow and stern, as well as the quarter deck, forecastle and poop deck as provided in the model, I had to retrofit the revised dimensions to make everything look proportional. I built up a partial structure using the plywood frames provided in the kit and transferred my deck dimensions to the model: Once I got the frames and strings aligned properly I marked the deck positions on the frames. I then drew a plan of each deck looking down from the top. I drew a horizontal line depicting the keel in the center of a sheet. I then marked a vertical line at the location of each of the frames. I then laid the marked up frame centered on the horizontal line and marked the outer edge of the deck at each point. This gave me an exact outline of the area of the deck which would be exposed. I don't want to overwhelm one post with all of the history, so I will add more information in future posts.
×
×
  • Create New...