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  1. Started this kit yesterday (8/17/2021). The building manual is very detailed, easily understood English, and has great illustrations. I read through both volumes item by item twice before starting. The Hull is pretty standard for plank-on-frame construction. However, it's the most intricate PoF I've ever done. I've been following the instructions, but also looking ahead at upcoming steps to anticipate how they may be impacted by a current step. For instance, in one of the photos I put a pencil to point at a bulkhead to "keel" glue joint. I like to leave a glue fillet at frame/keel joins but it was clear that if I left one at the indicated spot I'd have to cut it away to get a proper fitting of a keel extention done at a step that comes up a couple of pages later in the instructions. I was able to scrape away the fillet at those spots before the glue took a set, and I was careful to keep glue out of similar areas as I went forward. Another benefit of looking forward was that I could "dry fit" reinforcement stringers to the bulkheads while the glue on the bulkhead/keel join was still flexible. This ensured that all the pieces of fairly complex interlocking fit together perfectly as the glue dried. Others may think of this as pretty basic, but this is my first time at doing a PoF hull with so many interlocking pieces. I'm using Elmer's non-waterproof woodworking glue (a PVA adhesive) and I like the way it takes a "semi-set" in about 5 min, but remains flexible enough that the reinforcing pieces can be dry fit before the glue sets up so much that slight bending of the joint might break the seal. I'm allowing the major steps to cure a few hours before proceeding to the next steps, plus allowing an overnight cure for major assemblies. The photos show where I got on Day 1, plus this morning to add the bow and stern keel extentions with one bulkhead dry fitted to ensure that the fore keel extention stayed vertical as the glue cured. These have had a three hour cure and I'll start adding bulkheads fore and aft now, while dry fitting the reinforcing stringers. They will get glued at the end of today for an overnight cure. The plans seem to imply that one glues the two pieces of aft keel extention together after the first piece is glued to the center keel. That looked to me like a prescription for frustration, so I pre-glued them and their reinforcement pieces flat on the building board, as you can see in one of the photos. This doesn't seem to have caused any problems. I don't know why this is in 2 pieces. The only reason I can figure out is that Amati couldn't find room for it in their laser-cutting layout without adding another piece of plywood to the inventory. I would have preferred that they add the extra sheet of plywood to do this in one piece and to make the main keel in one piece. My tape measure says it would have just barely fit in the box. One of the things I intend to do with this build log is list the tools/supplies I needed for each step. This might help others planning their build. So far, I've needed: Wood glue, a celotex board to pin the keel pieces to ensure everything in the center section stays flat, wax paper to prevent glue sticking to the board, a 12" bar sander with 80 grit sandpaper and a nail file emory board to remove attachment nubs from the laser cut pieces, and a #11 hobby knife.
  2. Dear fellow forum members and readers, After somewhat a long time, I am back in these pages with a new build log. This is my next Amati kit after Riva Aquarama (link to build log here). I was then truly impressed with the quality material, instructions and precision of Amati kit and when I saw the review in this forum I just had to order this lovely train kit, also having my past ties with the destination city of the Orient Express, Istanbul, where I studied and lived many years before moving to Finland. Anyway, I received the package about an hour ago and didn't want to wait a minute to open it also for the sake of checking for any damages during transportation. For start, I will only post a few unboxing photos rather than a detailed unboxing since it is already been done in this excellent review by James H. Packaging and first impressions: The shipment package is 95x37x15 cm, where the actual kit box sits flush in it. Weight is around 9kg according to the shipment information. The package is heavier on the left part, where more metal parts are located. Sent by Amati by FedEX. No damage noticed on the package. Contents have been shaken a bit during transport. The small nylon bags were spread in the box, but all parts remained contained in their nylon bags. So no problem. Here are some unboxing photos. I hope to start tomorrow if not already today. Regards, Aydin
  3. Hi, This will be my first model ship build. I first spotted the 1:35 scale Amati model of the Endeavour which got me interested in the idea of making a model boat. However, I was concerned it was probably too ambitious for a first attempt. Having read a number of the build logs on this site on the Endeavour I decided to go with the 1:80, and if I enjoy it then maybe one day I'll tackle something larger. We're in lockdown at the moment (covid), so I've been ordering everything through post and am still without a few key tools, but the kit is here and I'm going to get started! The kit comes with a sanding block, a small hammer, large tweezers, a clamp and smaller sanding stick for smaller grooves. I've a tube of Selleys Interior Wood glue that dries clear, and a box of assorted elastic bands and bull dog clips and a scalpal. This should be enough for now. Looking forward to any advice/tips/encouragement as I go! Thanks, Brendan
  4. After finishing a 7 month complex project, I needed a quick-hit fun project. After watching a few vids on Ships in Bottles, I chose the 1:300 Amati Hannah. So far, it been pure fun. Little commitment, no stress, and totally different. While I want to produce a quality finished model, the ridiculousness of my large hands trying to craft a 1:300 scale ship and then raise the masts and sails inside what looks like an old-west elixir bottle is comical. But it’s working out so far! For anyone looking for an entertaining diversion, I’d highly recommend trying it out. Here’s the start:
  5. Well, this one has been a LONG time coming. I mean, this lockdown seems to have lasted a lifetime, so the original notice of Amati's now almost mythical 1:64 HMS Victory seems to have been such a long time ago! A lot of water has passed under the bridge since 2013 when Chris drove to Italy with the original design model in late 2013. Amati had enough general interest about their Victory from modellers to warrant then asking me to build a production prototype for the new format instruction manuals they now use. There were a few changes from Chris' original kit too, and Amati wanted those incorporated in the new manuals. Those manuals (yes, plural!) will contain (tentatively) around 1500 build photos, and be perfect-bound, glossy productions. I've already broken down Chris' construction into a multitude of chapters, with each depicting a specific sequence/task. For example, there will be a chapter for building each size of gun, each of the launches, the stove, first planking, but also for fitting out whole decks. For this build, I will use the existing manuals that Chris made when he finished his kit. Since Chris designed the model, Amati's laser manufacturer had changed the specs on sheet size that they could cut, so the sheet layouts needed to be rehashed for the new sizes. That was done earlier this year, but just when everything looked like it was going to plan (again), Italy, then the rest of the world, went into lockdown. So here we now are on the other side....just about. DHL delivered the HUGE box not long ago, and it is fantastically heavy! What is omitted at the moment are some first layer planks that they will ship when back in stock, and the cannon and figurehead. They won't be needed for a long time. They are also waiting on the copper PE, but I do have all the sheets of brass PE here. So, we have bags of laser-cut material (MDF, ply, timber), sleeves of strip (lots of them!), bags of PE and a whole bag of various fittings. I already have the thirty-one sheets of plans. Remember, this isn't a review, but just a build log. I cant review something like this which isn't quite complete. That's not the purpose. Inside the box, all the laser cut parts were bagged into two thick poly sleeves. These packs were of course the real weight behind this delivery. I'll open them later to look through them but I've included a few images they sent me of the parts before they shipped out. The sheer quantity of strip and dowel in this model is bewildering. The only time I've seen as much as this is when I've been in a hobby shop! Fittings. Usually Amati pack these into trays, but for this purpose, all the stuff is in little bags and sleeves and bundled into this substantial bag. You name it, and it's in here... Photo etch: Here's all the brass sheet stuff. I am waiting on the copper parts yet, but thought you'd like to see these. As I've been promising this kit arriving for a long time, I felt the need to stick my flag in the ground and start a build log showing the stuff that I now have. I won't be actually starting this until after 3rd August as I'll be away, plus I also have a project I need to take care of before that (written article, not a build). So....there we have it!!! **Apologies for phone camera pics too. The build will be done like my typical studio photos**
  6. Greetings to all the shipbuilders in this forum. I'm sixty-five years old and the last sixty I dealt with model railways. Few months ago I decided to do another attempt in shipbuilding (the first was the Golden Star when I was fifteen) and I chose the AMATI's Coca, because she's very nice and seems easy (but I realized it wasn't so for me, may be for other people more skillful). After examining the plans and looking for images of contemporary boats, I decided to make some changes: 1) the hawse hole have to be moved forward. 2) the yellow marked area will be "clinker working". 3) the upper beams will have a smaller section, differently positioned and will be more numerous. 4) the lower beams will be more numerous and differently positioned. 5) some top-timbers will be differently positioned and the number 5 will be added. 6) the frames and the bulwark stanchions will be more numerous. 7) the rigging will be totally changed: I've never seen such a disposition. Attached are some examples that inspired me. Have a nice evening, Rodolfo
  7. Hello everyone! It's time to open a new log after finishing the HM Pickle. That was a wonderful project and i'm happy with the result. It can be found here: So I chose the HMS Pegasus as a second build because it is somewhat larger then the Pickle and a bit more challenging I asume. But the appearance of the ship is what's the most important factor for me and the Pegasus is a beautiful ship! The lines of the Swan Class are just wonderful, and a nice bonus is that the kit designer is here on the forum. Plus it's a different manufacturer so the construction and building manuals etc. are somewhat different, so that's interesting to. I also purchased the 3D digital model that is just released by Greg Herbert to assist me in the build and give me ideas to finetune the kit. The goal is to take the kit a step further then the previous one and to modify as much as I feel comfortable with and expand my skillset a bit There are great logs on the forum to assist me with this build like the great build logs of Blue Ensign and Vulcanbomber and many others, so I will look into them! So let this new journey begin!
  8. Good Evening All This is not the most positive way to start a build log but I guess it was to be expected for a newbie like myself. So I have finally received my HMS Pegasus from Amati. The box is barely open and I already have problems. This would be a great point to recommend a build log or other resource for this build. I have found many but Im struggling on that covers the finer details that a rookie like myself needs. The instructions make no reference to a rabbet or bearding line, I have however come across reference to this in virtually every single build log that I have read on the vessel. My extreme lack of experience has lead me to several questions regarding these two subjects. 1. Rabbet line: - Am I correct in saying that they should be cut from the very bow to the very stern(excluding the vertical portion of the stern as indicated between the red arrows) -Should this line be cut 1.5mm "tall" and 1.25mm "deep" on either side of the false keel? -Do I need to sand the true keel down from 5mm to 2.5mm to match the width of the false keel after being cut down for the rabbet line?(this doesn's seem to make a hue amount of sense but it seems like this is what some people have done on some of the photos that I have seen. 2. Bearding line: - how do I determine where to draw the bearding line? - should the false keel be tapered evenly from the bearding line down to the rabbet line? - the instructions say "the stern area of the false keel to which the rudder post will be glued is to be sanded to roughly half the original width" does this essentially mean that I should sand from the bearding line to the vertical portion of the stern as well as the rabbet line(so that it tapers to the edge of the keel both vertically and horizontally?) Thanks a million in advance!
  9. Hello dear fellow forum folks, I joined this forum yesterday with an introduction followed by my first build log of hobbyzone build slip where I mentioned my plans to build a great looking model of Riva Aquarama from Amati. Having built several static models in the past, this time I decided to take a different challenge but was not sure exactly what that would be. Surfing in various ship model forums I got struck by a few build logs of a beautiful radio model from Amati, namely Riva Aquarama and then it was not hard for me to decide to go with this model. I ordered the kit from euromodels.co.uk since I had done shopping with them in the past and they have reasonable prices. Payment and shipment was swift and no problems at all. Only thing is that they are not very good at answering your emails: I asked a question about the several options of this kit which are sold separately before I ordered but did not get any reply. Earlier, I had asked also another question about HMS Fly concerning the availability of their photo-etched extension kit but did not get any response either. Anyway, no real complaints here, maybe their email providers are not working properly. Back to the kit: Amati offers several options for dudes like us who want to build it: - The boat itself. This is a big scale kit (1:10) at 86cm length which makes a great deal of details - Radio control kit (includes motor, rods, cables, electronic speed control etc...) - Accesory kit (this was what I was not sure whether the standard kit includes it already or not, for which I did not get a reply from the shop. I asked it to Amati and no reply from there either). The reason of my confusion is that Amati also sells other parts for those who want to scratch build, therefore I wanted to make sure whether the accessory kit contains for example better replacement parts than what comes with the standard kit, or just the same parts for those who want to scratch build. This kit alone costs around 140€ so it is not something you want to buy before making sure. At this moment I still don't know the answer but I will figure out before I come to the upholstery stage. In brief, this is what I am talking about: http://www.amatimodel.com/en/models/naval/classic/amati/runabout-upholstery-and-windshield-kit Overall, after unboxing and initial inspection, I have to say that the part quality is very very good. Especially the wooden strips are the best so far I have worked with. Each of them look straight, smooth like soap with no chips and splinters at all. Plans are clear and print quality is excellent Instruction manual is clear with lots and lots of photos, descriptions and tips, both in English and Italian. Spacious packaging, easy to place the parts back in to the box after unboxing, as opposed to some kits boxes where it feels like opening a can of worms you cannot pack back Alright, today's posts will be about unboxing and of the parts and package in general. I hope to start the build by tomorrow. Regards, Aydin
  10. Hi all and welcome to my first ever build log. I was gifted the lady Nelson kit as a birthday present and I’m super excited to get started. It’s my first wooden ship kit so this is all new to me. I have been building model kits since I can remember but nothing like this before. as the instructions are a bit vague for a beginner like myself I’m reading through other posts first. are there any video instructions for this particular kit ? thanks all
  11. Well, what was I thinking... After finishing Frigate Diana (Build log), I turned my eye on one of my favorite ships since first heading about it in school: the Bireme. Amati's kit was available in the store, and after sitting on the shelf for a good ten months while Di was being built, the day was there to open the box: If I had to make an unboxing video of this kit, the whole thing would be over in about 20 seconds. Surprisingly little in there, especially instructions-wise, with 2 single sided sheets strewn with several drawings. I read in other reviews and logs that Amati instructions are top notch, so either I'm getting it wrong or this is the one exception to the rule... The sail is obviously unfinished, and some ornaments are in the plastic box, including a very rudimentary rendition of a ram. Bit disappointed really, excepted more. But on we went, forging on with confidence. At least I had 2 builds under my belt so I should have an inkling of how to build without a safety net. Cut out the bulkheads and the false keel for dryfitting: None was a snug fit, so had to devise some special clamps to hold the bulkheads true in all axes: Had to do some corrections as well because some bulkheads were not high enough, some filing on others, but in the end it got sorted out. Missing the Occre fits though. I'm using Moreplovac's excellent build log to have at least an idea of what's coming my way. While studying it, thought it might be a good idea to handle the interior of the ship first, so I started working on the seats for the rowing crew. With the help of a little jig, the seats were all cut to the same size and attached to the bulkheads. This was also my first confrontation with the walnut strips in this kit, which seem to be made out of concrete 🙂 Installed, it looks like this: After this, used some walnut dye to darken the space beneath the seats, nd started on the extensive task of hiding the burn marks on the top of the bulkheads and the central columns, as these could not be removed by sanding. now working on the bow and Stern balsa pieces, getting them in shape, as well as starting to fair the bulkheads for planking. Well, at least I don't have too many masts to worry about 🙂 Take care & stay safe!
  12. Hi all, Early next year, Amati will release their new 1:200 Bismarck kit. This one will be a beast! Here's some info on this forthcoming kit: Length 127 cm Height 29 cm Width 18 cm Hull: plank on frame (also ready to accommodate RC Control) Laser etched wooden decks Anton Bruno Cesar and Dora turrets made in plywood and covered with photoetched brass. Metal gun barrels. Options for three style of camouflage, dependent on career stage. Wooden base for etched plate Decals for Sound Locator System. The Bismarck will be unveiled at the Nuremberg Toy Fair between 29th January - 2nd February 2020, by Krick, Amati's German distributor. Here's a few photos. I'll add more over the next weeks
  13. 1:32 Fifie – The Scottish Motor Fishing Vessel Amati Catalogue # 1300/09 Available from Amati for €220.00 The Fifie is a design of sailing boat developed on the east coast of Scotland. It was a traditional fishing boat used by Scottish fishermen from the 1850s until well into the 20th century. These boats were mainly used to fish for herring using drift nets, and along with other designs of boat were known as herring drifters. While the boats varied in design, they can be categorised by their vertical stem and stern, their long straight keel and wide beam. These attributes made the Fifies very stable in the water and allowed them to carry a very large set of sails. The long keel, however, made them difficult to manoeuvre in small harbours. Sailing Fifies had two masts with the standard rig consisting of a main dipping lug sail and a mizzen standing lug sail. The masts were positioned far forward and aft on the boat to give the maximum clear working space amidships. A large Fifie could reach just over 20 metres in length. Because of their large sail area, they were very fast sailing boats. Fifies built after 1860 were all decked and from the 1870s onwards the bigger boats were built with carvel planking, i.e. the planks were laid edge to edge instead of the overlapping clinker style of previous boats. The introduction of steam powered capstans in the 1890s, to help raising the lugs sails, allowed the size of these vessels to increase from 30 foot to over 70 foot in length. From about 1905 onwards sailing Fifies were gradually fitted with engines and converted to motorised vessels. There are few surviving examples of this type of fishing boat still in existence. The Scottish Fisheries Museum based in Anstruther, Fife, has restored and still sails a classic example of this type of vessel named the Reaper. The Swan Trust in Lerwick, Shetland have restored and maintain another Fifie, The Swan, as a sail training vessel. She now takes over 1000 trainees each year and has taken trainees to participate in the Cutty Sark Tall Ships Races to ports in France, Denmark, the Netherlands, Ireland as well as around the UK. Extract from Wikipedia The kit Fifie is packed into a large, heavy box that certainly hints that there’s a good quantity of material included to build this historic fishing vessel in all its glorious 1:32 scale. I do admit to particularly liking this scale, having built plastic models for many years and indeed for magazine publication. It’s definitely something I can relate to when eyeing up the various dimensions and features. Amati’s presentation is flawless and certainly stands out, with its large, glossy lid that captures an attractive view of the Fifie. It has to be noted here that the hull is usually fully painted, with green being common above the waterline, but this model was finished to show off the beauty of the walnut timber supplied in the kit. And why not! For those that don’t know, this kit, under the Victory Models label, was designed by Chris Watton. Many of you should be familiar with that name and his design pedigree. At 1:32, this kit is no shrinking violet in terms of size. Fifie is 700mm long, 470mm wide and with a height of 230mm (sans masts). Lifting the lid does indeed show a box crammed with materials. Inside, we have several bundles of timber, plus a packet of timber dowel/strip/metal rod/tube, a thick packet containing numerous laser-cut sheets, another packet with plans and photo etch, and underneath the main timber, we have sail cloth and fittings packs. Thick foam is included to stop the main materials from banging around in the box. Strip wood Fifie has a double-planked hull, with the first layer being constructed from 1.5mm x 7mm lime strips. These, like many of the other bundles, are 600mm long, and very cleanly cut with no fuzzy edges Sixty-five of these are supplied. The same quality goes for the second planking layer, which is supplied as 90 strips of 1mm x 6mm walnut which is some of the best I’ve seen in a kit. There is little colour variation in these, and they look pleasantly uniform. I’ve always found Amati’s timber quality to be exceptional and this is no different. As well as elastic to hold the bundles some labels are also included to help identity the material. Other strip wood is included (beech and walnut) for such things as deck planking, caulking (yes, caulk plank!), lining the various deck hatches, sheathing the deckhouse structures, rubbing strakes etc. These bundles are both taped and bound with elastic, with the deck planking having an identifying label also. Cutting is clean and precise. Dowel and tube/rod Various lengths of dowel is included for masting, false keel strengthening pins etc. and thicker strip wood for the timberheads. All is supplied in a nice uniform walnut colour….no nasty walnut dyes/stains in this kit! These latter lengths are also packaged into a thick clear sleeve, unlike the others. Note also various lengths of brass and copper wire, as timberheads well as some copper tube. Some mounting parts are included for RC conversion, but you will need to purchase other items to complete the model for radio. MDF sheet items Again, Amati has made extensive use of 4mm MDF for the hull false keel and bulkheads, and all are laser-cut, as are all individual wooden items in this kit. Cutting looks very precise with very little in the way of scorching, apart from very localised discolouration. I know many don’t like MDF as a material for our models, but MDF sands easily and is also warp-free, lending itself to a nice, true hull. You won’t see any of this when you start to lay planks. There are FOUR sheets of this material, and you’ll notice that there aren’t any parts numbers engraved on here. You will need to refer to the first two sheets of plans which contain the parts references. A single sheet of 2mm MDF contains parts such as the four-piece deck, cleats, and the bulkheads and keel for Fifie’s single launch vessel. There is also a single 6mm sheet of MDF (sheet 2698-B) which contains the four parts needed for the cradle. I’ve seen numerous sites which now sell this model claim that no stand is included with this model. Well, this sort of proves that statement incorrect. This is the same cradle shown on the box lid images. Of course, you’ll need a suitable MDF primer for this, and some nice coats of gloss lacquer to get the best from this. Ply sheet parts SIX sheets of thin ply are included for just about every other timber construction elements of Fifie, including the deckhouse, deck superstructures, keel sheathing, and bulwark capping strip. Again, all parts are laser-cut and will require minimal effort to remove any edge char. Fittings Two boxes of fittings are included in the very bottom of the Fifie kit box. Some of the weight bearing down has caused a small crack in the two vac-form fittings boxes, as you can see, but all parts within are absolutely fine. The first box contains the cast metal propeller, deck buckets, ship’s wheel, rigging blocks, life preserver rings and a whole load of beautifully smooth wooden balls for making the many buoys which sit on Fifie’s deck. These are perfectly circular, yet the ones on the box image are slightly shaped. Instructions show these as the balls, and you could perhaps opt to use a little putty to add some shape to these. The second fitting box contains seven spools of rigging cord in both black and natural colours, nails, various cast fittings such as bollards, plus rudder pintles, anchors etc. Copper eyelets, chain and ferrules etc. make up the set. Sail cloth Should you wish to add sails, then enough material is supplied for you, in bleached white cloth. Photo-etch Very few kits come without photo-etch parts these days, and this is no exception, with TWO sheets of 0.7mm brass with a very high number of included parts. A quick scan around the sheets will easily identify parts for the mast bases, steam winch, engine skylight, capstan, deck hand pump, wheel assembly, herring shovel, tabernacle, mast rings, etc. Acetate and card I have to say I’m not entirely sure what the card/cartridge paper is for except for maybe general use, but the thin acetate is obviously for the cabin windows. Instructions and plans Without a doubt, Amati produce some of the very best instruction manuals to come with any model kit. For reference, check out my Orient Express Sleeping Car review and that of Revenge. Fifie is no different with a luxurious and fully-pictorial, 64-page publication. Whilst this isn’t perfect-bound as with the previous reviews, it is in full colour and produced to a standard that’s still far higher than many contemporary manufacturers, with each stage being shown under construction so you get a perfect idea about what is required at that point in construction. Text is also in English, or at least in the sample I have been sent. The rear of the manual contains a complete components list. Backing up this publication is a set of seven plan sheets. The first two of these are for identifying the various timber and PE parts. The others show general profile and detail imagery, as well as masting and rig drawings. Remember that the hull itself is built entirely from the photographic sequences so everything you see on these drawings is for external details. Conclusion I have to say that you get a lot of kit for your money with Fifie, and when I first asked Amati what they envisaged the RRP to be, I was quite surprised at this. Everything about Fifie is quality, from the packaging and presentation, to the beautiful, photographic manual, fittings, sheet and strip timber, all the way to the superbly drawn plans. I’m very surprised that the gestation period has taken so long for them to bring this excellent kit to market. It’s also a Chris Watton thoroughbred. If you’ve seen his previous designs, then you’ll be familiar with the format of Fifie, which was quite the different vessel for Chris to tackle, when everyone seemed to think he would only design fighting vessels, armed to the teeth with cannon. I must admit that Fifie did take me quite by surprise too. The very shape of this iconic and historic vessel is so homely and welcoming and for me, invokes images of those times when fishing communities were happy and thriving. Whether you’re a fan of Chris’s work or not, Fifie is most certainly a kit that you should consider dropping into your virtual shopping cart next time you visit your favourite online model ship/boat retailer, and of course, if RC is your thing, then this kit will also suit your genre! VERY highly recommended! My sincere thanks to Amati for sending out the sample kit you see reviewed here. To purchase directly click the link at the top of the article to take you to Amati’s online shop or check out your country’s local distributor. Plans are also available from Amati, for €21.00
  14. Hey! No need to write a history of this model. This is my first wooden ship build ever. I bought this kit from a local shop in my city. I had no idea where I was getting into! First look inside: Work of first evening: It was a really tedious process to sand all the edges: I had to get some power tools in order to sand trickier parts: I have made clamps from document clams (similar to Amatis https://store.amatimodel.com/en/tools-and-equipment-parts-per-model/product-clamp-set-b7377.html) Getting first planks in place was difficult since I was doing that first time. I had to read and watch lots of videos to understand all the techniques. Props for this forum and written guides! I was really surprised that I my planking speed was 2 planks / hour. I was using hot water and soldering iron to get planks into the shape. Dremel tool was a huge help shaping this line: Starting to look like a ship: I saw no point covering back of the ship with these planks, but instructions showed that I have to do it: It took a while until I have prepared hull for second planking, but it is smooth as butter now: Started second planking:
  15. Well, I'm back again. This is my third planked hull and hopefully I can do this one as it should be done." I say third hull because my second has not been finished. I paused it after planking the Occre Polaris so that I can transfer it to the Southern Yard (see below for view from the window...). For those unfamiliar with the package, here's the obligatory box photo. I successfully inventoried the contents to ascertain all parts are as specified...took me three passes to get a complete, correct count (might have been the rum!) After rigorously studying the two pages of instructions and poring over the first two drawings I liberated the false keel, the bulkheads, the "plank termination patterns," and the temporary construction stand. Next up was some gentle sanding to remove all of the sprues. First success was a few nights back...I assembled the construction stand.... I'm now in the process of preparing the false keel to accept the bulkheads. I'm preparing a rabbet to accept the planks forward and the garboard planks along the keel. It will simply be a shallow bevel (not all the way to a point) deep enough to accept both planking layers. Now the tricky part for me...because I've never done this part before...and I'd like some guidance on this...the plans do not include a bearding line. What I've done so far is to clamp the bulkheads in place and mark the bottom of the last 3 bulkheads on the false keel. I then used a set of French curves to draw what I think is a fairly smooth curve on one side of the keel. I then transferred the curve to tracing paper. Placing the tracing paper on cardstock I used my knife to cut the curve templet in the cardstock. After matching up the templet on the original curve I then used it to trace the curve on the opposite side. If this sounds like a good approach, my next step will be to sand the beard to a point at the stern and then move forward with installing the bulkheads and then the stem and keel. Stem and keel will be glued into position, and then drilled and pegged with 24 gauge wire. That's it for tonight...my updates are random but usually after a notable milestone or encountering a potential trouble spot. I look forward to your thoughts and inspiration....
  16. From some time I was interested in building something more exotic with rig from other part of the world. Found this pirate junk and arab dhow. Model very good and used wood was at least for me top quality. As with most of generic ships made by me I decided to modify some of parts. I added bigger cannon on bow platform with full rigging as I saw in one of build logs of MSW modeller @AntonyUK here which log was great inspiration to me. Also I modified poop deck railings from wooden balustrade into more solid variant. I decided to modify a little two sampans as I wasn't sure about painting them in wood. First I painted them black and then using CA glue I placed strips of cherry wood for hull and pear for gunwales. Red flags as I read were used by chinese pirates so I decided to made easy and I think nice looking triangular flags on masts. Whole rigging of Junk is at least very interesting and so different in comparing to the square or lateen rig. Ropes given by Amati seems that didn't shreds themself than ropes from previously build models which was very nice. Telling the truth I managed to like very much such strange rigs and I would definitely want to try build a Geobukseon in same scale which I saw on ebay. Anyway now I would build Greek Galliot from Amati or Pinta from same producer. Maybe my approach is strange but I try to not repeat same types and collect different types of ships.
  17. Ok so this is my second build. My “learning build” was Occre’s Essex. I learned a ton, mostly 3 things: 1. Patience 2. Enjoying the process 3. I like the word working far more than the rigging…. So I started the Fifie in March 2021 and just finished it. I’ll upload all the photos in rapid succession. one thing I do know is that I know very little about model ship building. So to get better, I’m inviting any and all feedback on woodwork, rigging, weathering, customization. Anything you think will help as I move on to my next project (TBD.). And any suggestion on a good next level project? Thanks all!!!
  18. KIT: HMS PEGASUS (1776) Manufacturer: Amati (Italy) Scale: 1:64 (800 мм/31,5") ⚓️Official store: https://store.amatimodel.com/en/box-mounting-victory-by-amati/product-hms-pegasus-b130005.html
  19. I have been watching you guys build for awhile now and thanks to Santa I have my first kit to give this a try. I asked for the Lady Nelson after watching a stop motion film by Tom Grigat building the same kit. I figured if he could stop motion film the build, surely I can fumble through it myself.
  20. Hello, I did not take photos during its assembly, I present it finished. I hope you like it. Greetings. (Hola, no hice fotos durante su montaje, os lo presento terminado. Espero que os guste. Un saludo)
  21. Many years ago I built the Revell ships Pinta, Nina and Santa Maria, they had small plastic rigging Blocks, it was the first time I had rigged a plastic ship with Blocks and it led me onto building wooden ship kits. I have always liked the shape of the Pinta, a Caravel with a Square Main Sail, and this Amati version arrived here a few weeks ago. I will be building this following the Amati instructions but I do have access to the AOTS Ships of Columbus which I will use to help with the rigging. Whenever I read someone else's build I like to see what's in the box rather than having to look through other builds so here's what you get for your ....... (insert here your currency of choice, in my case £'s) Cheers Andy
  22. I have been researching this build for some time while working on other projects and I have been checking on this forum to obtain valuable information. I just finished my Emma C Berry and have started the Fifie. I have opened the box, check the materials, and studied the plans and instruction so I will not bother with pictures of these items. My first task was to mark the MDF forms with their respective numbers before I removed them. This is done. Then I assembled and cold fitted the cradle to hold the model after which, I glued it, primed and painted a dark brown. These will be my first pictures
  23. Greetings. This is my first attempt at a build log, though it is far from being my first ship. Having recently finished HMS Kingfisher by LSS (see gallery), the Revenge caught my eye and I decided to have a go of it. For those of you who decide to follow along, please note that my work on models can be sporadic at times. I will try to post updates as I complete each page or 2 of the manual. Kit was ordered from Ages of Sail and here is what comes in the box.
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