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  1. Well its time for a new build now that ENDEAVOUR is ostensibly complete. My next choice of kit still had to have an Australian flavour so I chose the BOUNTY. Choosing which BOUNTY to buld came down to what I could afford and what was available. I considered the Artesania version but was not keen paying for a single sided planking and open side with interior. I also stumbled upon a sale for Amarti BOUNTY's through Premier Models in the UK so I ordered one and it arrived safe and sound. I was surprised on opening the box at the difference in quality between the Artesania and Amarti kits. The Amarti materials appear and feel much better quality and the use of timber rather than ply for the keel, stem and stern posts, channels etc means one don't have t find a way to mask exposed ply ends. The ply stock itself also appears better quality with far les tear-our/delamination that the artesania material did. I also like the Amarti rigging (blocks, deadheyes, hearts, and parrels parts as these too are timber and not laser cut ply. I also like the Amarti threads even though I would prefer scale rope but it appears that this build may be a commission and will be an out of the box build. So lets get to work: FRAMING: Thank heavens for DAVOSHIPMODELLER on YouTube. He has a playlist for the construction of the Amarti BOUNTY and the identification of kit issues starts at the pre-framing stage. The first big is the location of the Mizzen and the implication that notching the false keel has with the location of Frame 13. The most effective solution is to notch out Fame 13 and then adjust the length of the Mizzen mast down the track. The other main issue is the shape of the false keel stem support and the reinforcing parts on either side. They do not match the plan nor the shape of the laser cut timber stem. Best to fix now before any assembly take place. Other changes made also follow the DAVOSHIPMODLLER experience including cutting out sections in the frames between Frame 11 and 13 and also Frame 14 and 16 to permit planked decks to be installed should one wish to have open hatched on the main deck.
  2. Well today is box opening day, I have peeked a few times thought. Lol. I chose this Amati Mayflower model because of wood work and overall look. Many of the Mayflowers I looked at are Mayflower ll, they seem to have a lot of colours on them, for me its a bit too flashy for my likes. I dont see any other Amati Mayflowers logs so this will be my attempt to build one. It is so good to know if I run into any problems MSW will have the answers, slowly and I mean slowly getting to know my computer and how it work here on MSW.. Thanks ever so much !!!!!! Well got to go set things up for the build wish me luck lol ,one thing I noticed was that there was two bags full of dead eyes LOL the fun never stops . This hobby is so much fun ,does everyone get excited on box opening day then build days then finishing day, then NEW kit day lol 😆 Again thanks MSW for steering me in the right direction so glad to be a small part, see you buddy's got ships to build
  3. In the belief that it’s better to get back on the horse than walk away, I decided to try again to construct the Amati Drakkar model. Of course, it’s better to not fall off the horse in the first place, but that option doesn’t usually exist for me. My first attempt ended when I decided that the hull was not forming along the ribs properly and was pulling too far away as I approached the gunwale. As it turned out I abandoned ship too soon. I have since learned that, with some effort, I could have disassembled the hull and tried again. Live and learn. Here is the hull as it looks today. Kind of a funky and beat-up appearance, looks like it’s had a few encounters with reefs or other solid objects. The cap rail on the gunwale is not part of the Amati kit, but fashioned from boxwood strips. Also, the planking inside the gunwale is not part of the kit, but an addition that I decided to add for reason I'll explain in a subsequent post. I always liked the red and yellow combination and thought I’d at least do my sail that way. So I needed no convincing, but cathead’s log convinced me that the red and yellow was a nice combination. In Matt H’s log I learned of the minor problem inserting the rope for the rudder after the deck is installed, so I decided to take care of that detail in advance.
  4. Hi All, Something newish for me thanks to the inspiration of others on this site. I started this build several years ago, 2008? I got the basic hull and some Superstructure almost compete and thought it was time to drag it out again.... Reasons for this is that I am tired of sitting on my Chuff for the last couple of months waiting for surgery on a torn right Rotator Cuff and looking like I'll be languishing for a couple more month's to come. The scale and size makes things a little easier to accomplish with my left hand. 🙂 The Partworks version is essentially an Amati offering in 140 magazine issues and it seemed too good an opportunity to re-start proceedings. (I have the Trumpeter 1/200 version with MK1 Detail set and the Tamiya 1/350 version also.) I began this afternoon by ensuring all subsequent issues and contents were present and put aside the 1/400 Titanic for a future when I have both arms fully operational 🙂 So, don't know how far I can get but my best shot and it's better than casting around feeling "Disabled." The Hull looks good for the time it's been in storage, some attention with filling, sanding and primer will help The Superstructure components will be wrapped in PE I'm looking forward to getting stuck in!! (A very big "Thank you" to the Gentlemen currently building the Amati version, it's given me much needed inspiration!!) Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  5. Hello Again, Well, I certainly didn't expect to be building a J Class yacht until yesterday when a friend called and asked if I'd build his Shamrock V for him. He has had the kit collecting dust on a shelf for many years and doesn't anticipate ever getting to it, so asked me if I'd build it for him. I have learned that Amati makes a range of America's Cup yacht kits, but the Shamrock V is one that has been discontinued. Since yesterday I have been poring over the kit. It will prove to be a relatively simple build, but appears to be a high quality kit. The fittings are excellent and the instructions and plans are very clear and easy to understand. (I do have a question about the rigging, but I'll ask that in a separate post under the right topic.) This kit has a pre-cast hull ( a type of resin, I guess) which will cut down on the amount of work needed considerably. I have never added sails to a model before, but I think this is one model that definitely needs them, so I'll be reading through everything I can find on making sails. The fabric provided in the kit is very fine and I don't think it will need to be replaced. Here are a couple of shots of the kit: So, an unexpected change of pace. David
  6. Began build of Fifie Scottish fishing vessel by Amati. MDF hull parts presented a few problems. Sanding of parts required use of a respirator and shop vacuum because of the fine dust. Somehow one bulkhead broke and another almost did even though I thought I was being very careful. Never had that problem with wood frames. Plans called for numbering parts before removing from laser cut sheets and rough beveling fore and aft bulkheads before installation. It would have been nice if Amati had used the laser to number the parts and indicate an approximate line for the beveling. I assembled the hull parts following the directions , and used a batten to fair the frames. Next up is to install the main deck panels and then begin the first level of planking.
  7. Martín Alonso Pinzón, (Spanish pronunciation: [maɾˈtin aˈlonso pinˈθon]; Palos de la Frontera, Huelva; c. 1441 – c. 1493) was a Spanish mariner, shipbuilder, navigator and explorer, oldest of the Pinzón brothers. He sailed with Christopher Columbus on his first voyage to the New World in 1492, as captain of the Pinta. The captain of my new log!!
  8. KIT: HMS PEGASUS (1776) Manufacturer: Amati (Italy) Scale: 1:64 (800 мм/31,5") ⚓️Official store: https://store.amatimodel.com/en/box-mounting-victory-by-amati/product-hms-pegasus-b130005.html
  9. Next project is the Amati Titanic. This is a museum quality model. The kit is very good quality. Will build into a very nice model of the Titanic. The instructions are very good. There is an 40 page colour booklet to go with the 10 pages of written instructions, which are very extensive. Plus there are 8 plan sheets. The down sides are the way the second planking of the hull needs to be cut from two sheets of ply using paper templets. The colour card cut outs to represent the windows and doors on the various cabin parts. Also the plastic benches are a let down. I will however replace all the card and benches with photo etch from Minibrass. I will start the build by cutting all the second planking parts out. I will then plank the decks before starting to put the kit together. I am unsure with the discrepancy with the 6 bulkheads. I have the template, but when I lay the bulkheads on it they are to small if I increase the size and to large a fit if I decrease the size. Will have to put them in place loose and see how the first planking sits on them. Have started by cutting the second planking out.
  10. Started this kit yesterday (8/17/2021). The building manual is very detailed, easily understood English, and has great illustrations. I read through both volumes item by item twice before starting. The Hull is pretty standard for plank-on-frame construction. However, it's the most intricate PoF I've ever done. I've been following the instructions, but also looking ahead at upcoming steps to anticipate how they may be impacted by a current step. For instance, in one of the photos I put a pencil to point at a bulkhead to "keel" glue joint. I like to leave a glue fillet at frame/keel joins but it was clear that if I left one at the indicated spot I'd have to cut it away to get a proper fitting of a keel extention done at a step that comes up a couple of pages later in the instructions. I was able to scrape away the fillet at those spots before the glue took a set, and I was careful to keep glue out of similar areas as I went forward. Another benefit of looking forward was that I could "dry fit" reinforcement stringers to the bulkheads while the glue on the bulkhead/keel join was still flexible. This ensured that all the pieces of fairly complex interlocking fit together perfectly as the glue dried. Others may think of this as pretty basic, but this is my first time at doing a PoF hull with so many interlocking pieces. I'm using Elmer's non-waterproof woodworking glue (a PVA adhesive) and I like the way it takes a "semi-set" in about 5 min, but remains flexible enough that the reinforcing pieces can be dry fit before the glue sets up so much that slight bending of the joint might break the seal. I'm allowing the major steps to cure a few hours before proceeding to the next steps, plus allowing an overnight cure for major assemblies. The photos show where I got on Day 1, plus this morning to add the bow and stern keel extentions with one bulkhead dry fitted to ensure that the fore keel extention stayed vertical as the glue cured. These have had a three hour cure and I'll start adding bulkheads fore and aft now, while dry fitting the reinforcing stringers. They will get glued at the end of today for an overnight cure. The plans seem to imply that one glues the two pieces of aft keel extention together after the first piece is glued to the center keel. That looked to me like a prescription for frustration, so I pre-glued them and their reinforcement pieces flat on the building board, as you can see in one of the photos. This doesn't seem to have caused any problems. I don't know why this is in 2 pieces. The only reason I can figure out is that Amati couldn't find room for it in their laser-cutting layout without adding another piece of plywood to the inventory. I would have preferred that they add the extra sheet of plywood to do this in one piece and to make the main keel in one piece. My tape measure says it would have just barely fit in the box. One of the things I intend to do with this build log is list the tools/supplies I needed for each step. This might help others planning their build. So far, I've needed: Wood glue, a celotex board to pin the keel pieces to ensure everything in the center section stays flat, wax paper to prevent glue sticking to the board, a 12" bar sander with 80 grit sandpaper and a nail file emory board to remove attachment nubs from the laser cut pieces, and a #11 hobby knife.
  11. Well, this one has been a LONG time coming. I mean, this lockdown seems to have lasted a lifetime, so the original notice of Amati's now almost mythical 1:64 HMS Victory seems to have been such a long time ago! A lot of water has passed under the bridge since 2013 when Chris drove to Italy with the original design model in late 2013. Amati had enough general interest about their Victory from modellers to warrant then asking me to build a production prototype for the new format instruction manuals they now use. There were a few changes from Chris' original kit too, and Amati wanted those incorporated in the new manuals. Those manuals (yes, plural!) will contain (tentatively) around 1500 build photos, and be perfect-bound, glossy productions. I've already broken down Chris' construction into a multitude of chapters, with each depicting a specific sequence/task. For example, there will be a chapter for building each size of gun, each of the launches, the stove, first planking, but also for fitting out whole decks. For this build, I will use the existing manuals that Chris made when he finished his kit. Since Chris designed the model, Amati's laser manufacturer had changed the specs on sheet size that they could cut, so the sheet layouts needed to be rehashed for the new sizes. That was done earlier this year, but just when everything looked like it was going to plan (again), Italy, then the rest of the world, went into lockdown. So here we now are on the other side....just about. DHL delivered the HUGE box not long ago, and it is fantastically heavy! What is omitted at the moment are some first layer planks that they will ship when back in stock, and the cannon and figurehead. They won't be needed for a long time. They are also waiting on the copper PE, but I do have all the sheets of brass PE here. So, we have bags of laser-cut material (MDF, ply, timber), sleeves of strip (lots of them!), bags of PE and a whole bag of various fittings. I already have the thirty-one sheets of plans. Remember, this isn't a review, but just a build log. I cant review something like this which isn't quite complete. That's not the purpose. Inside the box, all the laser cut parts were bagged into two thick poly sleeves. These packs were of course the real weight behind this delivery. I'll open them later to look through them but I've included a few images they sent me of the parts before they shipped out. The sheer quantity of strip and dowel in this model is bewildering. The only time I've seen as much as this is when I've been in a hobby shop! Fittings. Usually Amati pack these into trays, but for this purpose, all the stuff is in little bags and sleeves and bundled into this substantial bag. You name it, and it's in here... Photo etch: Here's all the brass sheet stuff. I am waiting on the copper parts yet, but thought you'd like to see these. As I've been promising this kit arriving for a long time, I felt the need to stick my flag in the ground and start a build log showing the stuff that I now have. I won't be actually starting this until after 3rd August as I'll be away, plus I also have a project I need to take care of before that (written article, not a build). So....there we have it!!! **Apologies for phone camera pics too. The build will be done like my typical studio photos**
  12. Started new build of the Amati Fifie. Several nice build logs on the forum w;hich I have reviewed and from which I will shamelessly filch ideas. I continue my trend of always have the next project chosen by the old Monty Python line: " And now for something completely different." I'm out of display room here in Rochester, Minnesota, to this one will travel to our place in Marblehead, Massachusetts which seems a more appropriate home anyway.
  13. I’m coming at this build log late. I’ve progressed a lot since these were taken, but I’m not done yet. Rather than recap in detail, I would like to post these pics of Pegasus at various spots that take me up to where I am now and I’ll pick up the build log there. Bulkheads on. Planking the gun deck. Gun deck completed. Starting the details. Pumps. Put rust detail around them. First layer of planking. Port side first layer done. First layer sanded. Second layer done and in homemade clamp. Putting gun port planks on. Gingerbread. Started to paint. Stern gallery attached. Copper plate on. Another view of copper. Gun jig I made. Gun tackle in. More deck furniture. Ship’s bell. Railing before Railing after painting and polywipe. Gold gingerbread on stern. Gingerbread on stbd stern window. This catches me up to my build. I am building a stand at the moment. Once it is complete, I will continue with the log. Jason
  14. Well, what was I thinking... After finishing Frigate Diana (Build log), I turned my eye on one of my favorite ships since first heading about it in school: the Bireme. Amati's kit was available in the store, and after sitting on the shelf for a good ten months while Di was being built, the day was there to open the box: If I had to make an unboxing video of this kit, the whole thing would be over in about 20 seconds. Surprisingly little in there, especially instructions-wise, with 2 single sided sheets strewn with several drawings. I read in other reviews and logs that Amati instructions are top notch, so either I'm getting it wrong or this is the one exception to the rule... The sail is obviously unfinished, and some ornaments are in the plastic box, including a very rudimentary rendition of a ram. Bit disappointed really, excepted more. But on we went, forging on with confidence. At least I had 2 builds under my belt so I should have an inkling of how to build without a safety net. Cut out the bulkheads and the false keel for dryfitting: None was a snug fit, so had to devise some special clamps to hold the bulkheads true in all axes: Had to do some corrections as well because some bulkheads were not high enough, some filing on others, but in the end it got sorted out. Missing the Occre fits though. I'm using Moreplovac's excellent build log to have at least an idea of what's coming my way. While studying it, thought it might be a good idea to handle the interior of the ship first, so I started working on the seats for the rowing crew. With the help of a little jig, the seats were all cut to the same size and attached to the bulkheads. This was also my first confrontation with the walnut strips in this kit, which seem to be made out of concrete 🙂 Installed, it looks like this: After this, used some walnut dye to darken the space beneath the seats, nd started on the extensive task of hiding the burn marks on the top of the bulkheads and the central columns, as these could not be removed by sanding. now working on the bow and Stern balsa pieces, getting them in shape, as well as starting to fair the bulkheads for planking. Well, at least I don't have too many masts to worry about 🙂 Take care & stay safe!
  15. Just starting a new build after a few years off. It's only my second build. I just started building the hull and I'm already stuck and need help lol. My work so far is attached. And I've also attached a picture of the instructions. If I'm correct, pieces 14 and 15 should NOT be glued on to the frame? The frame will be removed later after the planking, but I believe these pieces should be staying on the boat. I don't read Italian and the English version isn't totally clear to me. Secondly if someone could help me with tapering the frame that would be great. I don't remember how I did it on my last build. Do you generally taper each piece of the frame (in the picture pieces 2 - 9) at the same angle, then nail the planks down? Or does it require more precision and you file each piece at different angles, testing the fit of each plank as you go? Hopefully this question makes sense 😅.
  16. As you know, I just completed the Royal William. The Prince was a ship that was remodeled into the Royal William in the very early 1700's. Amati had a nice kit about 40 years ago of the Prince, but discontinued it long ago. I searched for a source for many years and finally found a fellow through this forum, who had the kit but never started it. I bought it from him a few years ago. Since the Royal William was a remodel of the Prince, to do a "Before and After Display" will be cool. The kit cost $600 back almost 40 years ago, so it is definitely a high end kit. As with the Royal William, I intend to greatly enhance the detail and rig her with full sails. There are a few modern kits available of the Prince, but none of them compare to this old kit, and the scale is big enough to go along side the Euromodel Royal William. The kit came in a nice wood case instead of a cardboard box. Back then there was no such thing a laser cut parts, so looking at the kit, everything must be hand cut by saw and file. There are 34 bulkheads which is about double of modern kits and each and every one will have to be hand cut. I will definitely get my money's worth out of the my band and scroll saws. 😛 Virtually nothing is pre-cut. The amount of decorations appears to be quite extensive as well. I am really going to enjoy this project. The first photo is from a 1980 catalog showing this kit listed. Vince P.
  17. This is my first build ever, which I've been working on for a looooooooooooooong time now. I've had so much trouble building this thing, and I'm not 100% satisfied with it, but I think its turned out pretty well so far. I've finished basically everything now other than putting the sails up. I lost a bunch of pictures I had of the progress of the build, so I don't have nearly as many pictures as most people here. Since my older pics aren't great I'm only posting pics of where the build is at now. I won't finish any more for a while since I'm going away to school tomorrow. Hopefully I can get something done around xmas.
  18. Hello all, ..... recently signed up, and the first post from me, so I guess this constitutes an introduction, as well as my first post, come build log. So then - Andi Little, and little Andi by nature. long time modeller but a first proper attempt at a wooden model. I've been a fan of small open boats since childhood, dinghies dories tenders jolly boats pinnaces etc - et al. I've been trying to find out ways of building open boats for years, and generally amusing myself just solving the problems mentally. But for some reason, it seems to have loomed larger in my mind and I've finally chosen to tackle it as a project. I saw someone else's ongoing build of the Whaleboat and was really quite smitten with the whole look of the thing - I liked its lines the details and accessories ... and perhaps more to the point it looked do-able? .................... Don't tell me if I've made a mistake in that assumption as I've read up on the admins' advice on keeping things simple-ish to start off with and had hoped this would do the trick. Eventually, the ambition is to be able to build from scratch an array of small handsome rowboats and sailboats - I love these things. I lived aboard for many years and often watched them buzzing around - I am to this day still in love with "Emily from Morston" and an unnamed Estuary boat that I often sailed up and down the river Thurne. Well enough about me .................. for those may have not seen the project in question, and by way of commitment of intention .................... ..................................................... Cheers all ... Andi.
  19. Hi all, This is my first build and wanted a touch of help, to document my progress and keep a record of my issues so I can avoid them in future builds. I'm coming up on the tail end of the faring process and just trying to get these deadwood areas fared down to the right angle/dimensions. Below, Fig. A is what I assume is the correct faring angle judging by the documents/videos I've read and watched, which say to bring the deadwood down to "about half width". Fig. B and Fig. D is roughly what my model currently looks like (slightly exaggerated in drawings). Notice in Fig. D where I drew that arrow, a slip of the tool while faring the port side termination pattern caused me to create a bit of a depression into the keel. In Fig. C I assume the correct tapering angle between the 3mm section and the (eventual) 1.5mm section would ideally be the same as the straight lines I drew in Fig A, just along the sides of the keel. As you can see in Fig D. I've already taken off material that will complicate that a bit. So questions currently; 1) How do people go about making sure they fare down these deadwood sections evenly on each side. 2) When you already have some wonky angles like I do, how do you continue to work the area to end up even (like I drew in Fig A.), in all the various directions. Without continuing to remove materials from the sections that are probably sitting pretty close to where they should be. (Currently the plan is just slow and careful sanding. I don't think I've taken them down so far that I would need to glue strips and sand down again). The MSY tutorials say to focus on one side at a time (which is great for the bulkhead faring) but I found that to be somewhat misleading advice for the deadwood. If I was to do this again from the start I would make about 5 passes with the file, then swap to the other side for 5 passes then repeat, to keep things nice and even. Below photo of Fig B. Below photo of Fig. D (note the slight depression right at the end of the keel on the port side) MSY mentioned this area near the bow also had some deadwood that needed to be fared. I used the technique of an equal number of passes on each side to keep it symmetrical and found that to work pretty well. Does this need to taper down to about half width as well? I haven't done this before so I find myself wondering if I'm being a bit to pedantic or over thinking. I'm pretty confident I can work through all this without much help but any criticism/advice on the above would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Mango.
  20. With the help of Lazy Saint I chose this Model for its 1:64 scale. I see other members include the drawings so I am following suit. I think too big though. I will have to scale them down next time. I have never done any work with the Exacta tools so I was being very careful. I carefully numbered and compared the pieces to the actual drawing. I then put everything together dry. I plan to hand buff each piece on the ends to get any "burrs" out. and then I will glue them. I have read a lot about glues on this site now it is my turn. I have worked a lot with wood but not on a small scale so I have use only Elmer's Carpenter glue. On rare occasions I have used white glue for fear of having to take the object apart. I am planning to go to Florida soon so I am not sure when I will be back. I know this is a simple boat to build but I had to start somewhere. Like all of the members I will accept any and all input from anyone. Happy New Year I am wrong in the above and at a suggestion I am replacing these as help to someone who might think the same way I was.
  21. Greetings Everyone, The Lady arrived a few days ago. I've been picking up ship building tools, doing lots of research and got the work bench turned into a ship yard. You may notice the tools on the peg board don't look like model ship building tools... I have built 6 classical and 4 acoustic guitars. The bench was also an RC helicopter and airplane hanger for a few years, and now it's being converted to a shipyard. I retire in 19 days and will get at it. 🙂
  22. A Ship-in-a-bottle has been on my “bucket list” for some time now. A little while ago, I was re-enthused about such a project when I saw Glen McGuire's excellent rendition of this kit. A heavy hint was dropped to my wife, who duly produced the kit for my birthday in November last year. Completion of another modelling project, the holiday season, and work on a new furniture project has kept me out of the shipyard until now. I will forgo the “unboxing” photos as there are several of these already on the forum. Suffice to say that the only item that immediately jumps out at me for replacement are the sails. These have heavy black lines drawn on them and they look nothing like the box art. I have asked the Admiral (an avid sewer) for some assistance in sourcing an appropriate replacement material. The Hull Building commences with the hull, which is assembled from a series of lifts. I have read in other build logs where some have found that these did not accurately match the 1:1 templates provided in the instructions, however I was pleased to find that in my kit at least, they were a very close match. These templates each have a couple of crosses on them, that I can only assume to be alignment marks. The instructions are silent on this point, and I do not recall reading in anyone else’s log where they have been put to use. The instructions simply invite you to assemble the lifts in numerical order, with no further guidance on alignment. I decided to make use of these marks to help align the lifts correctly. I scanned the 1:1 scale drawing, printed it and cut out the individual patterns. I then pasted these temporarily onto the lifts with a UHU glue stick and drilled a 0.8mm diameter hole through each of the reference marks. The paper templates were then peeled off, leaving the lifts ready to be assembled. I used two pieces of 0.8mm diameter brass rod to dry fit the lifts together. There are several more lifts to be added under the stern, but these will be fitted in two pieces to accommodate the keel. This seems to have been a reasonably successful process, so I will now go ahead and glue them up. It feels good to be back at the bench!
  23. Greetings. This is my first attempt at a build log, though it is far from being my first ship. Having recently finished HMS Kingfisher by LSS (see gallery), the Revenge caught my eye and I decided to have a go of it. For those of you who decide to follow along, please note that my work on models can be sporadic at times. I will try to post updates as I complete each page or 2 of the manual. Kit was ordered from Ages of Sail and here is what comes in the box.
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