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Found 7 results

  1. This not the start of the build but is the current stage which is about 80% complete as i have been of the model for several months now, the previous stages I am affraid were lost in the old site crash. I will be adding the picture trail from the start once I have knocked then into a suitable order. The kit comprises of the Trumpter Arizona plus upgrades from Trumpeter which includes all of the 5/6 inch barrels, Nautilus Wood deck, White Ensign P/E upgrade, Brass Screws to replace the plastic ones in the kit, White Ensign Anchor Chain Plate. One thing I have noted is that the Trumpter P/E is really soft and the stairways fall apart far to easily - anyone comtempating their use should consider heat treating them to harden the up. New anchor chain is now planned - its likely I'll purchase a self colured black chain at 16 links per inch. The main superstructure has been completed ready for locating on the main hull, the stack and ships boats are compete as is the main armament and AA Guns and ^ inch guns. The Lower hull is in preparation for paint with the "A frames and shafts located" The Upper hull has been partially painted in Grey and the black bootstrap applied - I have made that at 4 mm wide as its the smallest width tape I could easily locate. Latest news is I have been looking to fit the anchor chain plate on the forward deck but have encountered some problems with the compatibility of the 3 main components - Trumpeter forward deck section, Nautilus Wood deck and White Ensign Anchor plate. Whats transpired is that the wood is exact as far as I can tell is acurate to the moulding but the chain plate has been designed to overcome the faults in the moulding and is exact to the orignal drawings which renders its use difficult in the planned configuration I have. For the builders who count rivets to the nth degree thats fine but for those who are looking for a practical build it becomes difficult. White Ensign have been great in trying to assist in the build throughout. i have decided to make a compromise at this stage and now omit the chain plate P/E even though at first I thought I could work around the issues but in the end I have decided its not worth the effort. I intend to post the long file of pictures on the build from the start possibly at the weekend as I have been holding back until the site stabilizes having lots the 3 Caldercraft builds adding up to some 2000 posts.
  2. Ahoy mates, I was looking at the Scarnhorst build and that was enough to spur me to built a little metal kit of the U.S.S. Arizona thats been laying around since last Christmas. I've been very busy trying to keep the Admiral happy, so have not made further progress on my long term build (Wasa) - so I found some You Tube sites with tips for the Arizona (and other metal models as well), and it looked like something I could actually FINISH in a day. The caveat on this model is the SMALL scale - 1:1325 - based on a 608' prototype shrunk down to 5.51" long! The Arizona was built in 1915 and refurbished in 1931 ... we all know of her fate on December 7th 1941at Pearl Harbor. The model is configured to that time, and has a surprising amount of detail for something so small. Of course, compromises were made - but the product will not take up much space on the shelf. The picture above shows the tools needed - actually the flush cutters were still a little large to sever the 'clip points' on the laser-cut stainless steel sheets (2), so I had to touch them up with a grinder to refine them. The drill bits were to form small curves in the pliable metal, or to form small cylinders. My lighted magnifier was a MUST, as I found it hard to work with some of the tiny pieces ... or even see some of them. The metal is actually delicate, and I accidentally broke a couple of small bits off ... there were a couple of small repairs made with 1 minute epoxy. Building this was a 'crash course' in dealing with this type of model, and in future will take on a better kit of this type (not as small) of the U.S.S. Missouri. Zowie, here are the sheets with a hand shown for scale. I applied a wash of diluted Testors enamel red to the hull where it had anti-fouling paint, and light brown to the wooden areas of the deck (not shown here) - those area had some laser-etched texture. The rest of the parts were left bright metal, since the paint doesn't stick well to dead-flat shiny surfaces. Here is where I had over-bent a tiny compartment and broke off part of the wall. I did this repair with kneadable J-B putty to fill the compartment to be a backing for the broken section of wall. When mounted, the repair was a success, as the cured putty (6 minute set variety) is not visible from the outside. Fine tweezers, and finely tapered needle-nose pliers (no serrations) a dental tool and also an X-acto knife were wielded as need to push, prod, tease, bend and otherwise work this thin-metal medium. Above is a substantial part of the superstructure. Here are the aft guns. Now I've got the deck together ... this is an ABBREVIATED build log, since this sort of model was (as stated at the start of the log) just a break from the many things I have yet to do on my 'honey do' list. Lat year the Admiral got a new deck. Now I have to put a spa next to the deck. But really, the model has a certain 'charm'. The total build time turned out to be 10 hours over two days. There was a lot of fiddling with it, and some errors had to be un-done and corrected, but it is very good practice at manipulating small objects. And here she is ... all of 5 1/2 inches in length. You can see the applied red and tan paint in the areas mentioned before. Here you can see that there is a lot of detail etched into the metal. I think that for the Missouri I will apply the lessons learned to be able to do a better job on a better model - one etched on larger sheets. Here is a view from the stern. Other than for the aforementioned repairs, no glue was needed ... just a lot of patience. Smooth sailing and fair weather ! Johnny
  3. I've been milling over this model long enough........now I went and done it! assembly has begun. actually, it started a couple of weeks ago, but I was try to get an idea of what I could do, in dressing her up. I bought the kit a month or so ago............I remember building this kit in my younger days. I thought it had a wonky way of assembly back then....and I still think so today research on this model has been tough.......this particular model ranks lower than the Trumpeter 1:200 kit {and even that is subject to debate}......there are some 1:350 scale kits out there that rank even higher. info on this kit lacks as well..........after market just scratches the surface with gun barrels and bare bone PE. I call it that because there are some aspects that are not included in the PE kit. at first, I was all set to do a poor review on this kit........but now that I've had a chance to delve into it, there is a silver lining. for another model that I'm building, I purchased the PE set for the HMS Hood, and some of it can be used on this kit {even though it's a 1:350 set}. I ordered the PE set for the catapults and cranes.......but I didn't take into consideration that there were no railings in the kit {the price should have given it away}. after some measuring and comparison.......I can use the hood set for them as well. the two glaring downsides to this model, lies in how it assembles, and how few parts there are in this kit. this kit has only 133 parts, compared to the Trumpeter kit, which has over 1,048 parts. this doesn't even include the PE or add ons you may want to include. don't bother looking for a wooden deck for the Revell kit, because there isn't one. I can't fathom that.........a kit that's been around since 1959, and no one has developed a wooden deck for it! a lot of detail is molded....the railings, various deck fittings, and anchor chain, are just to name a few. but, with a little imagination, these issues can be modified and corrected. how the superstructures are assembled is another stumbling block........the mating joints run through the portholes, meaning part of the structure walls, are on both parts of the deck levels. this will make it harder to add doors and porthole enhancements. it has been a long time since I've done modifications to a plastic kit......but we'll give it a go. there are no logs here on MSW.......and there are scant logs anywhere else. it's my pleasure to be the first it sounds like i'm being hard on this kit........but don't let it throw ya. I enjoy an old kit 🔨⛏️⚒️
  4. Hello everyone, I'm starting on my next plastic model. This will be my second plastic model. My first plastic model was the Revell USS Missouri. I started with these two models mainly because if I mess them up I haven't lost too much. I opened up the box and was somewhat pleased. Being the model castings were made in the 1950's, the model looks ok. The flashing doesn't look bad either. There is a date molded into the hull "1959". The hull is 17" long and is in two pieces. Holding the two halves together, it doesn't look like it will take very much work to get them to fit good. Bill
  5. Hope this will work, this is a time lapse build of the metal earths USS Arizona. Small parts and tricky but I got the last parts together last night at 2am. Here's a penny in front of the finished model. USS Arizona timelapse.mp4
  6. I decided to start a new build log based on the classic Revell 1/426 USS Arizona. I will be creating a diorama of the USS Arizona as she is now with the Shapeways memorial scale model. I started by removing the decks from their sprue and assembling the basic model. I only need the two hull halves, the two primary decks, the first secondary deck, two turrets and one set of guns. I traced the outline of the inverted hull onto a piece of cardboard. After measuring the length and width, I printed the drawing that I will base my build on, on legal size paper. Now I just need to take my plan to a copy store and have them match the size for me. Once I have these copies, I can match up the model to the drawings.
  7. I haven't seriously worked on models in years. But over the years, I've acquired some kits I want to build. One being Trumpeter's 1/350 USS Texas BB-35 and Bronco's 1/350 USS Fort Worth. Upon examining the kits, I realized I was not up to the challenge yet. I needed experience. So I decided to build this historic Ship, and I given it's age, historic kit to. I began researching the subject and learned when she was sunk, she had been repainted that year. So she was not the standard Navy Grey. And I liked the look. So I tried to find the closest color matches. I've stumbled some. One the hull seem would not go away with glue, clamp and sanding. Primer showed how bad it really was. So I had to fill and sand. The other issue was the paint. I had read online she was SeaBlue. So I purchases Tamiya SeaBlue. After priming and painting the lower hull Tamiya Hull Red, I added the SeaBlue. Well that was almost black. So I did more research and learned that Tamiya Medium Blue is a close match for 1941 Navy's 5-S A and B. That is much better. The latest was airbrushing the Tamiya black for the waterline stripe. It bled through the blue painter's tape badly. I repainted the upper hull yesterday. So the pictures in the album reflect that. Still need to fix the Hull Red. Then try again with stripe. Will try a black paint pen. In addition, I began painting the wood deck color. That will take a few coats. Then some dark brown wash to add some realism. My USS Arizona Picture Album
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