Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'Artesania Latina'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • The Captain's Cabin
    • How to use the MSW forum
    • New member Introductions
  • Member's Build Logs
    • Build logs for SHIP MODEL KITS - by era - launch date
    • Build logs for SCRATCH projects - by era - launch date
  • Group Projects on MSW
    • Group Projects on Model Ship World
  • Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research
    • Nautical/Naval History
    • Discussions for Ships plans and Project Research. General research on specific vessels and ship types..
    • Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
    • Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
    • Masting, rigging and sails
    • Model Tips and Tricks and Making Jigs
    • Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
    • Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
    • Wood discussion...Where to use it? Where to get it? What types are best? How to Finish it?
    • Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
    • CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
    • Photographing your work. How to do this.
  • Ship Modeling News And Reviews.....Traders and Dealers...Ship Model Clubs
    • General Ship Model Kit Discussions - NOT build logs
    • Reviews
    • Book, Monograph and Magazine reviews and Downloads. Questions and Discussions for Books and Pubs
    • Traders, Dealers, Buying or Selling anything? - Discuss New Products and Ship Model Goodies here as well!!
    • NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD - News & Information
    • Important Ship Model Club News, Links to ship modelling resources and museums
  • The Crew's Lounge
    • Shore Leave
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Plans and Instructions/Downloads
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.
  • Medway Long Boat - 1742 - Public group project.'s General discussions/How to join
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Ropewalk Plans/Downloads
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Discussions about Rope Making
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Rope Materials and parts resources
  • Rope Making/Ropewalks's Commercial sources for ropewalk machines
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's How to join this Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Tutorials and Discussion for the Carving Group
  • Intro to carving - typical decorative relief carving for ship models's Build Logs for the Carving Group Project
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Build Logs for the Full Hull Version of HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's Cross Section Build Logs for HMS TRITON
  • HMS Triton - 28 gun frigate's How to Join The HMS TRITON Group Build
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's General project discussions on planking, fittings and monograph chapters
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's Member Build logs for the HMS Winchelsea
  • HMS Winchelsea 1764's How to join this group project???
  • Planking Techniques's Planking Downloads and Tutorials and Videos
  • Planking Techniques's Click Here for Topics dedicated to planking!!!!
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Questions and discussions about building the kit
  • HMS Granado 'Cross Section' - CAF Model's Build Logs for the CAF Granado Cross MID-Section

Calendars

There are no results to display.

There are no results to display.


Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests


NRG Membership Number

  1. Hi all, About a month ago I received the construction kit for my second ship by post. I finished my first ship, the President Scale 1:60 Sergal kit, for about two months now and couldn't wait to start a new ship. After some searching I finally chose the frigate "L 'Hermione La Fayette". Although I would normally not choose to fully paint the hull, in this case I think it has something. Due to my enthusiasm while building, I forget to open a ship build log, but, better late than never! What's in the box! Unfortunately no 1: 1 drawing for the exact measurements T Everything is neatly packed Sails After checking the parts, it appears that a strip of 6x6 mm is missing, luckily there was still one left from my previous ship. Music in the background, on your marks, let the build begin! 😄
  2. I'll start by saying, I wasn't planning on doing a build log... There are a 15 logs for the same model on MSW already. However, at last check, only one was to completion. The other logs offer a lot of help and information but only as far as they go! So, even though I started the model 3 months ago, I did take pictures along the way and any details I may have left out can easily be found on the other logs. I pledge to keep this log running to the models completion, however long that takes. This is my 4th model and I continue to learn new techniques and ideas. I think that will never stop. There are so many masters on this forum! I hope, someday, to be as capable as them. I am attempting to keep this model as historically accurate as I can based on the plans and the book "The anatomy of a ship : The armed transport Bounty". Additionally, I will be aging or weathering the ship as I build it to give it that "realistic" look. This is the first time I've tried this method and as you'll see it has been challenging but also a lot of fun! Before I start, I'd like to thank several builders that have inspired and unknowingly helped me to this point. Many are still on my favorites list and all have build logs that you may want to reference too: Captain Al Cobr Grendel Rcmdvr Thomaslambo Tim Moore Trig There are probably a couple more that I missed... Okay, lets get started! I didn't bother taking pictures of the box, unpacking and indexing the parts. I'm sure there are plenty of those out there! I found the contents to be of very good quality and I was not missing any parts or components. The scale drawings and picture book are very detailed. The instruction book is probably a bit sparse if you are new to modeling. The picture book helps fill in some of the gaps but frankly, without some of the build logs, it would be very difficult in places. The first few steps are pretty straight forward: 1. Cut out the keel and frames 2. Sand the little tags off and remove the charred layer for better glue adhesion. 3. I chose to stain the frames and keel with a walnut stain, taking care to keep stain away from the areas to be glues. It took two coats to get to the color I wanted. The picture below was taken with just one coat. I purchased (prior to starting this model) a model ship building slip: It has been a great tool for holding the model and I expect to use it throughout the build. Look at the above log for more details... worth every penny! It is extremely important that the keel is kept straight and that each frame is installed plumb and level to the keel. This CANNOT BE STRESSED ENOUGH!! If any of these are off, you'll struggle with it throughout the build. A word of caution... Make sure the table or bench is level too... If it isn't, make note of the difference and ensure that the identical difference is transferred to your model as you build it. As you can see in the pictures above the building slip has an attachment to help keep the frames at 90 degrees to the keel and the frames were leveled using a small level resting on the top of the frames before gluing and taping into place. Each frame was allowed to dry several hours before the next frames was added. More to come later today or tomorrow.
  3. This was my first purchase. After reading the instructions I realized that I did not have the skills necessary. So I built Model Shipways Shipwright series of three models, the last being the Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack. As a lifelong fan of Mark Twain, I found this model appealing. I found the false keel and bottom warped, and am attempting to straighten before starting assembly. In the meantime, I spent some time removing char from the plywood bulkheads. There are a quite a few logs on MSW for this kit, so I won't repeat posting more than the box cover and overall plan to start:
  4. Hi everyone! Brand new to the forums, and to ship building. My build log is going to start with a bit of searching for advice before I proceed. Let me lay out the problem/story for you, and then we'll go from there! My grandfather started this model many years ago after he had retired. Shortly after, they moved, and it has been sitting in his storage at his new place for... 15+ years. On a recent visit, the subject of model making came up (we both make model cars and airplanes), and he asked me if I was interested in this ship. Wooden ship building has been on my list of things to try for a long time. I've even bought and read several books on the subject. Of course, I said sure! Upon getting the model home and reading through the instructions and plans, organizing the components, and trying to figure out where he left off years and years ago, I discovered some potential issues with the model. I did a lot of research, found these forums, found a series of older posts, and a log by John Earl that made the light bulb come on. This is the old kit that has incorrect parts, and that most people have to modify or supplement parts for... Long story short, my grandfather didn't have the internet or access to these logs all those years ago, and forged ahead, and now I need to figure out what the best course of action is so I can proceed with the build. I hope to finish the ship and send progress photos to him since he is no longer able to do the fine detail work. A couple things: - I fully understand that this model is not the most accurate, and that most people single plank it due to painting it. I am not worried about the inaccuracies, and have accepted that it won't be perfect due to the "mistakes" that were already made. I also will be doing the second layer of planks for that experience and to learn, as it's my first ship. - I'd like to figure out the easiest and most straight forward way of getting the bulwarks (namely the bow) to an acceptable state, that won't entirely mess on the model, and proceed. I don't want to cause major damage to the rest of the ship, and am fine with inaccuracies and a bit of... improvisation for the purposes of learning and finishing it while my grandfather can still appreciate it. Thank you all so much. Seems like a great forum, and I'm excited to get this under way. Here are some pictures, and if you need more photos or different angles, I'm happy to do so. This is the state that he gave it to me in. I haven't done or changed anything yet.
  5. Hi I started this kit approximately 11 years ago. It has traveled half away across the eastern side of Australia through various moves. Last time I looked at it was roughly 5 years ago. Pulled it out and decided to try and finish it. Its haunted by the ghosts of mistakes past. These are photos of where I left it.
  6. So I started on another kit but it proved to be a bit over my head so I have started with this kit. So far it has been straightforward. There seems to be enough plank work to get me ready for more advanced kits to come. I have NO experience and I’m building the kit On a limb 😬. I know I have plenty of advice and help from this forum and will be using it...a lot. Please lend all the Crits and advice you can give me. It will be a slow process as I’m sure most of these type kits are but so far it’s been very relaxing. Thanks for tuning in!
  7. Hello All, This is my first build log as I am returning to this hobby after many years as I was lucky enough to be given the Red Dragon as a Christmas gift. I am looking forward to building this model and will certainly appreciate any and all comments along the way! Thanks again for all the kind welcome notes after my first post last week. Opening the box was actually a pleasant surprise as I found a neat, shrink wrapped package containing all the items, including a plastic box with all the fittings. Very different to the box mayhem that I remember from over 20 years ago when all the components were mostly left to freely roam around the box. The instructions were disappointing, being nothing more than a basic listing of the build order complementing a nicely printed, but detail-limited plan sheet. On the plus side, there was a nice set of photos of the model at different build stages. Even though the box was unopened, I still did the inventory that many of you mention doing in your logs and happily I found nothing missing. The laser cut parts seemed accurately done when I checked what I could against the plans, but keel and frames seemed rather thin. Fitting quality overall was OK. On to the build! After making a build stand, the first step was to check the false keel against a straight edge and surprise (!) there was some warping. Fortunately, soaking the keel and gently clamping it for a couple of days seemed to correct the problem. The frames were pretty straight and quite symmetrical, perhaps a nice benefit of the laser cutting. As the keel was so thin, I glued bracing strips along each side to reinforce it and also increase the frame gluing areas. After cutting the frame slots in these strips, I spent a few hours sanding out the slots until the frames fit snugly. A dry fit showed things to be lining up well as far as I could see in both vertical and horizontal directions, so the next step is to glue them together. Attached a few photos. Thanks for reading. Nigel.
  8. My first build was the Bon Retour. Everything on it is currently done except the rigging, but I'm waiting on replacement deadeyes, since I shattered one that had been poorly drilled. In the meantime, I read through the instruction book for La Provençale, which I had planned to be my second build. Discovering that the kit is much easier than the Bon Retour and that the instructions for La Provençale are much, much better, I decided (perhaps foolishly) to dive into the new kit that had been on deck. In particular, the rigging instructions are very detailed with clear diagrams. So, I've decided to set the Bon Retour off to the side for a few weeks while I work on La Provençale and learn more about rigging. Being a francophile and a novice model ship builder, I'm particular drawn right now to these French fishing boats as I improve my skills. (I also have Artesania Latina's Saint-Malo kit waiting for me after I finish these two.) This one is tied to some particularly fond memories for me. A few years ago, I was doing research on the Côte d'Azur and was staying in a little fishing village called Beaulieu-sur-mer, right at the top end of the Saint-Jacques-Cap-Ferrat peninsula. By chance, I saw posters up for a Fête de Saint-Pierre and decided to attend. The celebration is organized annually by the local Catholic church to celebrate the feast day of Saint Peter, the patron saint of fishermen and sailors. After mass was celebrated (outdoors, on a plaza overlooking the harbor), the priest blessed the fishing boat that had been built for this Fête. Then several men from the congregation—those who had been chosen to build the boat that year—hoisted it onto their shoulders and we marched en masse to the harbor. While the men rigged the little fishing boat, the rest of us boarded a ferry and sailed out to the bay. The priest gave a prayer the local fire chief tossed a wreath into the sea, commemorating all of the local fishermen and sailors who had died in the previous year. When we returned to shore, everybody cheered on the group of men with the small fishing boat as they launched the craft for a three-day vigil. The boat, they told me, was designed on the model of the boats in Galilee...but upon seeing La Provençale, I immediately recognized in it that little craft from Beaulieu! Unfortunately, I apparently thought it was rude to take a photo during the mass, since I have no photos of that boat, otherwise I'd share. And so, diving in. On Day 1, I opened up the box and inventoried the parts (sorry for the glare in the photo!), then read through the instructions a few times.
  9. I started this AL Kit of the Harvey about over 20 years ago. I put it aside to start another kit then never returned to finish her. She was my first attempt at ship modelling so I have made a number of mistakes. It is time to finish her off. She is not in bad condition - most of the pieces seem to be present with only a few broken bits. The Hull is fully planked, all of the deck structures are complete, the cannons are build (of course), and two of the masts are built along with most of the yards. I usually play audiobooks of Patrick O'Brian while in the ship yard so in honour of the great man I am going to call this Baltimore Clipper "The Ringle". I dusted off the hull, then added a coat of Tung Oil The masts and deck furniture are in good condition. It's surprising that not more was broken, but fortunately there is very little damage.
  10. I've been on a little hiatus since I completed my Medway Longboat a few weeks ago and I have been mulling over too many choices of what to build next. I have 10 models on the shelf which is way too many and, in addition to those, I was considering the Cheerful by Syren and the Lady Isabella by Vanguard. The Cheerful will have to wait since Chuck is temporarily closed and having problems with the USPS and the Byrnes table saw I was going to get is temporarily out of stock due to a shortage of 120V motors. I decided to wait on the Lady Isabella too since I would like to try my hand at weathering a working vessel like the Lady Isabella and I want to learn to use my airbrush before I dive into that kind of a build So that left me deciding on a model that I already have and two of them kept drawing my attention: the Pride of Baltimore II by Model Shipways and the Pen Duick by Artesania Latina. I had picked up the AL model of the Pen Duick last year on eBay. It was out of production and, of course, AL is no more. After looking over the 3 Pen Duick build logs here on MSW and reading more about its owner, Eric Tabarly, and his phenomenal history racing the Pen Duick, my interest in her grew and she got the nod. It will also give me a chance to learn to use my airbrush that was a Christmas gift from my wife this year. There have been a series of 6 Pen Duick ocean racing yachts. The original Pen Duick, a gaff rigged cutter, was built in Ireland in 1898. Eric Tabarly's father acquired her in 1938 when Eric was 7 years old and taught him how to sail on her. Eric went on to become one of the most legendary, long distance racing sailors in the history of the sport winning and setting records in transatlantic and transpacific races among many others. The Pen Duick eventually fell into disrepair and the hull rotted after World War II. Eric began restoring her in 1956 and completed the restoration in 1958 with a new polyester resin hull. Tragically, Eric Tabarly drowned in the Irish Sea on the night of June 12-13, 1998, when he was knocked overboard by a spar. His body was recovered by the trawler An Yvidig on July 20. Eric Tabarly in 1990: The Pen Duick: The AL model of the Pen Duick is based on the boat after she was restored in 1958. I found the materials nicely packaged and everything appears to be there although I haven't inventoried it yet. The false keel and bulkheads are nice plywood and the laser cutting is clean. There are also some mahogany laser cut parts. Planking strips of ramin and mahogany along with some African walnut dowels for the mast etc. The brass fittings are very nice and there are some white metal fittings and brass strips. The belaying pins are the typical, ugly, bulbous ones that are in so many kits. I'm sure I'll end up making new ones and I will probably replace the blocks and rope with some from Syren. The sails leave a lot to be desired and they don't match up in size with the plans. I might have to learn how to sew.... There are two, large, double sided sets of plans and they appear to be 1:1 but that is not indicated on the plans. The sails certainly do not match up with the plans either; they're too small. The instructions are in several languages including English but they are very brief. The instructional photos are a bit more help but I'll still be flying by the seat of my pants trying to figure things out. I want to try and do the deck planking with joggles as shown below. The kit simply has a straight piece of mahogany laid down the middle of the boat from the stem to the stern. The build by hof00 here on MSW was done this way and he explains how he did it. I think it will be tough to get all those joggles laid out and cut correctly and to be able to plank the deck so it's symmetrical on both sides. This will be a long shot for me but I'll give it a go and see how big of a mess I can make.... I picked up this used book on eBay hoping that it would have some nice photos in it but it's more about the various versions of the Pen Duick and their racing history. It is a very good read though. I have the feeling, for whatever reason, that this build may turn into a rather directionless adventure for me. I hope some of you will take an interest in following along and, perhaps, steer me in the right direction when you see me veering off into the abyss. So here we go...
  11. Hi everyone, this is my first build log here on MSW, and 5th wooden ship model. With this kit I wanted to get a break from rigging HMS Terror I've been building for over a year now (build log pending, I'm not very good with keeping logs). I'm rather disappointed with this kit, and hopefully the build log will show why. The build process looks straightforward from the first glance at the instructions, but as I was progressing it was more and more obvious that there are lots of very unclear moments that instructions don't show. And what really baffles me - there are no plans of the boat included, you have to kinda guess part placement and some dimensions based on few small photos. Here you can see bow and stern reinforcement plates being mistakenly glued lower than they should be, because instructions give misleading information on doing this. I had to remove them and glue flush to the top of main keel piece. Next thing that really surprised me was the amount of material that needs to be sanded off the keel prior to planking (about 1cm). It's a very strange design decision, and instructions don't really explain it, you have to figure it out from pictures. Planking (arguably the most important step when building a clinker-built boat) is barely explained, luckily this being my fifth model I had no issues with it. Calculated and marked all plank sizes, glued with thick CA glue. Reasonably happy with the result, didn't bother much with getting it perfect because all of it will be pained white as per instructions. On next photo you can spot a strange horizontal plank on the bow bulkhead. It's made from 0.6mm scrap piece from HMS Terror build and is covering the ugly end of the plywood keel that would be otherwise visible on a finished model. Installed the benches, and this step really showed the problems with the kit. You see, with all those elements (bulkheads, benches) being laser-cut, one would expect them to fit reasonably well. But no, not even close. Benches are too long for bulkheads they should pair with, and pre-cut slots that bulkheads should fit in are different sizes on each side of the banks. It's just hilariously bad. Not a big deal for me, but for a kit that is positioned as a beginner-friendly it's unacceptable. Especially given how easy is to adjust source files for laser cutting (it's not like it's ejection molding and you have to make new forms), there is no excuse for such quality issues. On a positive side, I loved the use of cherry for the benches and other details, beautiful colour. Although the wood quality for cherry parts is all over the place.
  12. Started my second boat kit this weekend, Providence Whaleboat by Artesania Latina, one of their beginner’s kits. I’ve consulted the other build logs and am trying to avoid the issues they found with this kit, and it’s coming together very well so far. Frames fitted neatly, though the plywood was very brittle. Using a lot more tools on this kit than I did on my first, getting a much better result. The instructions just call this the “interior side piece.” Made double sure that it would fit cleanly, since I saw other builders having trouble with this piece. There is a lot of room for error. I got to use my Micro Shapers from Artesania Latina on the interior planking, to make it round on the edges. Needs cleaning up afterwards, but it’s a neat tool. The interior side planking isn’t perfect, once again I forgot to sand the frames, but it’s better than my last boat. The floor planking was very easy with enough sanding and cutting. Sanded one of the “Cockpit floor side battens” and used it as a form to make the second one. Took a great deal of sanding and fitting, but the floor planking finished very neatly. I’m very proud of this work so far. Now begins the laborious task of sanding down the frames to receive the exterior planks! I’m listening to an audiobook of Moby Dick while I work. Call me Ishmael!
  13. Hi all, I am back after a long absence. I have now retired so have lots of time for my favourite hobby. I have started to build the AL King of the Mississippi. I like AL's kits. The instructions can be a bit vague at times, but the photo instructions are mostly easy to follow. Paul
  14. I first saw a model steamboat being built over 35 years ago. I was impressed with the model but never thought that was something I could ever tackle. I was able to locate a kit after AL went out of business. I was not going to do a build log since it looked like this kit would no longer be produced. However, with AL new ownership this kit is available once again. The bulkheads fit snugly and squared easily. The only issue was that bulkheads 4 and 5 were mislabeled. Note that the sternboard was not put on at this time although the instructions indicate to do it. Gluing it on at this point can result in an incorrect angle as noted in other build logs.
  15. Ahoy! I'm returning to ship modelling to complete this model. I stopped after I fell down the stairs with it quite a while ago. Most of the damage was to the bowspirit, dislodged cannons, and small miscellaneous breaks. It had gathered a bit of dust over the years on the shelf. I cleaned of the dust bunnies with brushes. A couple of pieces had to be reconstructed because they were lost, then it was just rerigging.
  16. Hi everyone! I had to take a break from the hobby since it was my last year of university but i can finally say, after 4 very hard and very long years, that i am a graduated engineer! Now that i once again have some time to spend as i see fit, i decided to continue on the build i left half-done when the exams and finals started. This is the first build that i do in which i try to apply all of the knowledge i gained from my previous ones to get the best result possible. I know i still have much to learn, and constructive criticism is always welcomed! Now, im sorry if the details of the first steps are not as detailed, its been some time and its proven difficult to find the pictures i took of this steps. First of all, building the main skeleton of the boat. After building it and making a few adjustements (we all know how AL makes its kits), i nailed the fake deck to it. I took my time to make sure it was 100% not moving and in place, and that resulted in a very satisfying nail pattern I also planked the lower deck pieces, since it was going to be easier if i did it prior to any other step Planking of lower decks ç Nailing the fake deck (I took this last photo after planking, im sorry, but its the only one i have :C) After this, it was time to start planking the hull. At this time, i asked the MSW forum about how do professional modellers manage to lay the planking flat to the keel. It was at this time that i learned about the rabbet line and the bearding line! I didnt even know what they were. Anyways, i did do the rabbet line, but since in this kit it has a back-bone type keel (the bulkheads go all the way up to the keel, making it really inconvenient to do the bearding line), it was suggested to me to first plank the hull and then sand the planks down before adding the keel. Since it was my first time doing so, it didnt look so good, but its not anything a little of wood filler cant solve. I ended up with a pretty good result, and i feel that i am getting way better at planking!
  17. Hi everyone, Here is my slow-time build log of the Dallas Cutter. The pictures are a bit rough and ready and were taken originally as a memory jogger for myself...little did I know.... 😉 The Dallas was started 25 years ago and I got as far as finishing the hull before the project was put into cold storage. Here is the front cover of the box which contained all the parts, 3x very good layout drawing sheets and a (sometimes confusing) 15 page Instruction Booklet 25 yrs ago the hull starts to get the planking fitted. Hull planking finished. Decking started. Hull and decking finished, mostly. June/July 2020. Deck fittings etc installed. Some parts highlighted with 'Canadian Cedar' Danish Oil. Railings being installed. Note: new £15 battery powered Banggood 'Dremel' bottom right. It works OK and battery lasts a reasonable time. However the supplied brass collets don't have their holes drilled in the centre of the collet so drills cut slightly large (and vibrate). I also have an actual battery powered Dremel + extension cable, but it is a bit heavy handed for the finer work. Almost ready for masts and rigging. Dummy deck idea, to facilitate the assembly of mast and rigging away from the 'real' ship to prevent damage to deck fittings. I'm unsure whether I'll actually use this dummy deck...might just fit straight onto real ship....pondering. OK, that's it for now. Any advice/comments gladly received. All the best, Richard
  18. Hello, and welcome to my first build log in the MSW forums. This is a kit from the Spanish manufacturer Artesanía Latina. It is labeled as suitable for beginners, however, there are several details that increase the difficulty somewhat, mainly because of omissions or lack of clarity in the instructions. It is not too complex to build, but I still would not recommend it to a total noobie, unless they already have some experience with other kits—like plastic—or wood working in general. Some familiarity with nautical terms will surely help. I bought it from Amazon USA in 2018, but apparently all Artesanía Latina kits have become scarcer since. I picked it up for two main reasons: I wanted to practice my technique with something easy and cheap that I wouldn't mind too much if I botched something, and my love for 1800-era ships and the whaling industry in general. Since I have some experience with other engineering, hobby and DIY house projects, I already had most of the necessary tools and instruments. Without further ado, this is what happened: I will refer to the small pictures in a normal, Western-style reading order (left to right, top to bottom). In the first two pictures: frames and keel are fitted and glued. Some of them had to be properly aligned using clothespins. bow and stern reinforcements were glued in place too. The instructions are not too clear about these. Pictures 3 and 4 shows an ad hoc solution for holding the wooden parts in place: clothespins are too weak, but the foldback paper clamps are too strong and damage the soft wood. To prevent this, tissue paper is used over the contact surfaces. Some planks had to be soaked in warm water to allow for better shaping and curving. Five minutes submerged was enough, and the shaping was done by hand. All were previously cut to the proper size and sanded. If everything looks neat and clean that's because it is. Every part is first sanded to a smooth finish, and then glued to the kit. This proved useful later, saving time and unnecessary hassle. I carefully studied beforehand the whole instruction booklet, and every visible part will be given this special treatment from the beginning. In picture 5 some weight is added to keep the centerboard in place while the glue dries. The first floor planks have been glued too. Pictures 6 and 7 show the last planks being glued and the inner "tub" ready. In picture 8 you can see the sanding and shaping of the keel, bow and stern (close-up detail in picture 9). The tools used can be seen in the background. This particular kind of boat is designed to be highly manoeuverable and speedy, so both ends are symmetric in case a quick reversal of direction is needed. Up next: the clinker hull.
  19. Hello everyone. This is my first model ship kit and - after running into a snag (more on that in a bit) - I found this forum. I was encouraged to start a build log. I received this kit a few years ago from my father-in-law. He finished a similar kit while he was in medical school, and he thought it would be a good project for me while I was finishing my doctoral thesis. Unfortunately, the thesis took the front seat and I never had a chance to start the kit. Fast forward five years, we're all stuck at home and I no longer have an excuse. I began this kit around the end of March, so I'm around two months into it at this point. I won't belabor a discussion on the Virginia - I can see that there are plenty of descriptions on this site. Suffice to say - it is apparently not a model of any real ship, but rather an imagining of a common type of ship of the era. It's a very pretty kit, and the quality seems to be rather high for the most part (though I have no other kit to judge from). For a "novice" kit, the documentation is rather lacking and uses ship lingo heavily, though this has been nice to force me to learn everything. Anyway, to the build. Here you can see the false keel and a bundle of the raw materials - mostly ramin, applewood, and mahogany. Here it is partway through decking. I chose to go with a simple decking pattern, and marked the sides of the laths with pencil. I was not very consistent with the deck lengths at this stage, unfortunately, which is noticeable later on. Next up was putting on the first layer of pieces on the hull. I did not find that any heat was necessary - soaking the pieces in warm water for 30 minutes was enough to provide the elasticity to match the proper curve. Of note: I hammered the brads in the entire way rather than nipping off. This made things a bit harder later on when filing smooth, but was not a huge issue (for any future builders). With the first layer down, I filed and sanded smooth, and filled in anything large cracks with a homemade putty (there was plenty of sawdust...). This was required mostly along the border of where the bulwarks were attached. I don't have any pictures, but the bulwarks did not quite match the curvature (you can see a bit of the putty job to the far right). Here is the transom - note that I attached the keep prior putting the mahogany on, so as to assure that the mahogany abutted the keel perfectly. Note that I left plenty of overhang for the stern post (I think this may be a common error in this build, more on it later). I did not bend my transom to have a curve, and instead opted to go flat. I regret this somewhat, as the slight curve is nice - but that bird has flown. And a few pictures mid-way with the mahogany: And finally finished (here you can see most of the deck fittings and the rudder). The stern post is now fitted, and the transom does not hang past it much. If you cut the keel flush with the stern, then the stern post will sit too low and the transom will jut out past the stern post - creating issues when attaching the rudder. I believe this to be in error. I've read a few build posts that state this is a flaw in the kit, but I contend that it is an error in the build - I have no issues with fitting everything in as-is at this point. On to the railings. The kit recommends cutting the applewood struts to 14mm and 17mm, but this requires a substantial amount of filing/sanding (which would be required for leveling anyway) and thus plenty of breaking off struts and re-gluing. If I did it again, I would opt for something more like 11mm and 16mm, which is much closer to the final height. You can also see that I've added in the applewood rubbing strakes at this point, as well. ...and here I've glued on the pieces for the helmsman's traction. You can also see some pieces I've added to the transom - unfortunately, I broke the transom internally while sanding. It left no visible damage on the ramin veneers, but it was loose. I cut a couple of rib stiffeners made out of scrap applewood and tried to make them look purposeful. They did the trick (adapt, right?). Here you can see the stiffeners again - the transom is solid and no longer wobbles. I've begun to put the railing on at this stage. Here there does seem to be an error with the kit - the curvature of the railing is far greater than the curvature of the bulwarks and thus the railing struts - so much so that I do not believe I have made an error. I have adapted by tracing the curvature of the top of the struts onto paper, connecting with a french curve, and chopping the railings (originally two pieces) into four pieces to better match the curvature. You can also see in this photo that I've attached the hawses. Fast forwarding to the current stage: ...and this is where I currently am. Of note: some of the deck fittings were pre-cast (such as the bowspirit masthead columns,). They did not look great, so I opted to make them out of wood instead. Same with the water pump handle, the anchor tie-offs, and the carronade quoin. I may fashion a piece for the rudder, as well. At this point, I have glued everything to the deck. This is how I discovered the forum, because reading on I have discovered that I should have applied finish before gluing anything on the deck. I do not have much glue squeeze out at all, so I think I am just going to apply spray-on satin poly and hope for the best, and will wipe on any poly carefully in places that coverage is poor. I will likely remove all of the brass fittings and attempt to blacken a bit - as they have not been glued (except for the "foremast spanker sheet" - the large piece near the cargo hatch - it has been glued in and will remain brass!). I will likely leave the brass brads in the rubbing strake, as I like the sheen there and don't want to weather them at all I hope the poly will cover them fine.
  20. First build log for first ship attempt. Already planked realizing I should create a log to document it! So far I found planking to be pleasantly challenge. Love the fact that if you take your time, most mistakes can be sanded out! I minimized the number of nails when I planked and pulled many out after glue dried (tightbond capenter's glue and cy to "spot weld" when needed). I've got the rubbing strakes on and now working on the railing. Need to give a shout out to DocBlake for his keel clamp. I followed his sample images substituting wingnuts because I had them available. Awesome clamp!
  21. Hello to all. This is my first attempt at a build log for my current project. This will be my third build, the first is the Bluenose by Billing Boats which is currently waiting for deck materials. My second build was the Hannah ship in a bottle which is finished. So while waiting for the Bluenose deck, I have started on Le Renard. So, here we go! First a picture of the box. And it's contents.. Everything looks very good, no warped or cracked parts, and everything was well packaged. The instructions looks great, one for the hull and one for the rig. There is no fullsize plan though. So I started at page one, and that is with the basic hull skeleton assembly. First I removed all the bulkheads and keel from their cutouts(?) and sanded off the little points that hold them. One of the bulkheads had a little fault from the production of the plywood sheet itself. I'll fill this with a thin piece of wood and glue.. Then dryfitting of all the parts, all the slots were a little loose, so the bulkheads will need clamping with a square while the glue dries. As seen here the bulkheads lean left and right due to the loose fit. At least the loose fit will give room for glue. Everything seems to fit together, and it looks kinda like in the instructions, so time to open the glue bottle. Don't you just love that new glue bottle all clean and shiny, and say to yourself, "this time I'm gonna keep it clean and the tip nice and open" Yeah, at least I know how long that's gonna last..😁 First bulkhead glued in, all square and true! Not a whole lot done, but I think it's a good start! Stay safe out there and enjoy your models! Gaffrig
  22. Hello, few days I introduced myself on this great forum and recived very warm welcome. I decided to share with my build of French Corsair Cutter Le Renard from Artesania Latina kit. As I realised this is very popular kit and many modellers make this wonderful warship. I'm not suprised because she looks awsome and it's famous ship with her own place in history. This is my third wodden model which I will made ( Saint Malo dory boat and Zuiderzee Botter were respectively first and second wodden model ) and I think it's good idea to graduate difficulty to do not fail with build of ultra difficult, big and expensive kits. Also I want every next ship to be more difficult and this cutter has one thing which always made me fear of sailing ships that means rope ladders. Le Renard has only few of this elements so I have many place for learing how to make such element. Out from curiosity what is purpose of this element made from MDF with screw and nut inside on the right of this photo? I use Hobby Zone building slip which looks like is designed to rather bigger ships but after few modifications it works very well for Le Renard. I placed few doubled keelblocks which were added to the Building slip and now keel of Le Renard is nicely positioned. So far no problems with hull with exception of unnecessery piece on deck of Part 1 which I cut as Part 16 didn't needed this. Everything glued with PVA glue and reinforced with nails.
  23. I bought this kit a few months ago from HobbyTown, not knowing a thing about this hobby, and got a few tools I thought I would need. I’ve used them all so far, and gathered many more tools. Two boat kits later, I feel experienced enough to tackle this ship. The instructions on CD are mainly visual, but it’s gotten me through so far. I may be missing a couple timbers, but thankfully it seems all the hardware is here. I had intended to build the Bounty Launch from Model Shipways next, but I ran into trouble early into that kit. By comparison, this kit has been very easy. I find working with nails much easier than trying to glue all those planks. As before, I’ve had a little trouble tidying up the stern and the bow, but I am gratified to learn that I am improving. The fully planked hull. On one side of the hull I used perfectly sanded and beveled planks to join up the center. But on this side I just used scraps of wood, dust, and glue to fill it in, then sanded it down to shape. This is where I am at present, with the gunwales and transom installed. I have begun veneering the hull, and hope to hang the rudder sometime this weekend. I am about a week into this project, I think it will take me another week to build the railing and deck furniture, and another week to do rigging and sails. It’s coming together much faster than I anticipated! Let me know your thoughts.
  24. Howdy everyone! When I was a kid, I did a lot of plastic models but then stopped about 15 years ago due to college and early adult job hopping. Now that I've got the time (and more disposable income), I've started back up and wanted to get into something I always dreamed of doing... wooden ships. I grew up in Maryland near Solomon's Island before moving out to Arkansas when I turned 13. Some of my fondest childhood memories is seeing the sailboats out on the Bay so building these allow me to rekindle those feelings. I picked up this kit at a hobby shop in Memphis (nearest one to me, at about an hour away) about a month ago and have been steadily working on it. It's not my first wooden model, but it's my first one with actual rigging (my first was a Chesapeake Bay Skipjack). Here are some pictures of the progress that I've managed to get so far. I'm not expecting this to be a fast build by any means, as the only time I can work on this is when my toddler is asleep, but I'll try to keep this thread updated at least once a week of any progress that I've made on it. For starters, I got the framing set in place. It's as close to straight as I could get them. I've yet to fair them up yet as that appears to be "major step" 5 in the included instructions, I'm only on step 2. After doing a lot of reading and research, I decided to go with a "3 butt planking style" for my deck and drew some pictures to reference off of. The plank length I decided on was a scaled 16 feet, which comes out to 3 inches by my calculations. To make things easier on myself, I created a little bit of a jig with some spare wood so I could get the basic plank length uniform. The riser on the left that they butt against is just a couple paint stirring sticks that have been laminated and then brad nailed to the plank of scrap poplar. My "fence" is some more of that stirring stick cut down to 3 inches, and glued perpendicularly to a popsicle stick after making sure they were square. I used a chisel to carefully carve out the rabbet that they sit in, giving myself some room for longer planks later projects. I didn't cut out all of my planks yet, just enough to give me 36 "full lengths" to start with. I also realize that the drawing I made of the deck to reference off of is shifted from the actual deck... simply put, I drew the picture "starting" at the stern side of the deck but then decided afterwards (before actually planking it) that I wanted them to be started flush against the stem side instead. I'm just too lazy to go through the process of redrawing that one in particular. The other deck images are all based on starting flush at their respective stem sides. ~Dan
×
×
  • Create New...