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Found 143 results

  1. Well, well. Seems I started it all wrong, but I´m trying to right the wrongs. Here are my modelling to the present day. Sorry for my lack of description, I´ll try to write it from now on.
  2. this is my frist wood kit i know its a bit much for me but my dad got it for my brithday so here i go . i will need lots of help with this one . so far what i did is dry fit the keel nothing is glued yet .but in the pic u will see looks like to me that the keel is warped or is it just my bad eyes
  3. Hi everyone and welcome to my log of Artesania Latina’s kit of the Virginia 1819. I have wanted to build two ships for a long time; the Bounty as I have always been fascinated by the story, and the Liveship Paragon from the Robin Hobb fantasy novels. Having no experience in using wood, (my experience is in plastic modelling - aircraft, German WW2 armour, Tamiya's Tirpitz, scifi ships, model railroading, and even some Warhammer figures) I decided to start with a beginners kit to see how well I fared before shelling out for something complicated. I got the kit from De Agostini as a partwork. As I work on the kitchen table I also purchased the Occre workstation early on in the build. This kit was started about 3 years ago but I’m a slow builder, especially as I tend not to build in the summer months - so this log is an incentive to be finished by this summer! The early part of the build was done under the assumption that this was a real boat, however the further into the build I got I soon realised that this is a kit based on “the kind of boat made during the period”, and is very simplified. I have made a few changes based on trying to get a bit more detail and “accuracy”. I hope I haven’t made too many mistakes…… The false keel and bulkheads. Pretty standard fare - the correct alignment made easier by gluing the bulkheads to the false keel and the false deck at the same time. Balsa wood was used to fill between the bulkheads at the bow and stern. I applied a couple of coats of 50/50 diluted aliphatic carpenters glue to harden the balsa after it had been shaped. Decking applied, the caulking represented by the use of a black sharpie pen, luckily no bleeding but I think black was too stark so I’d probably use a dark brown next time. Planking the hull. I used a plank bender (the one that puts indents on the inner face) and pinned while the glue set. By changing the angle of the plank bender to the plank you can get a twist as well as a bend. The pins were pushed in at an angle to push the plank towards its neighbour. Filler was applied where needed and the bulwarks attached. These were thin enough to bend easily, again pinned while the glue set. The hull was then sanded down and the keel, stern post and cutwater? added.
  4. Had this started 9 years ago, as usual life got in the way but managed to put a bit together here and there. Not worth starting a build log just to have it seem abandoned. Just started again the other day with a bit more time available. Building this for my Admiral who would love to travel on one, but because of her own issues barely leaves the house. Likeley to be a slow build so please bear with me. Progress so far. Hull built and planked Livestock area. I added tie rings to both side. You don't want animals fighting over the hay or running wild on deck! Hooks for the livestock area. Rounded tops so no animal injuries! Barn doors and hinge. Looks better from a normal viewing distance 🙂 And where would I be without my helper! Cheers for now, Bob
  5. I'm in the process of constructing the Artesania Latina Harvey double planked hull box kit. This project was started back in the mid 1980's and then sat until my retirement. Following the written instructions the hull, false deck, hull shaping, first layer of hull planking, and deck planking have all been completed. I'm in the process of completing the deck rivits and was looking ahead to the next step. The instruction for the next step is as follows: "Take the two prow timber frame extensions (29), from the kit, smooth off with sandpaper and bond into position as shown in Figs, 3 and 4. I only have one part in the kit stamped with the number "29", not two. It's a small wooden flattened out "V" shape approximately W48mm x H10mm x 4mm thick. Based on the drawings (Instructions refer to Fig. 3 and 4) it appears that part #29 should have been glued to the hull framing timbers prior to installing the deck and hull planking. The only drawing that actually refers to part #29 is on Fig. 5. If the part #29 that I have in the kit is accurate I can fabricate another one (Part #29 was the only part that was stamped). My question is this: Are the prow timber frame extensions required to attach the bulwarks at the prow? Do I need to remove hull and deck planking to install the prow timber frame extensions to the hull framing timbers? Any suggested workarounds?
  6. This is my first wooden model, so bear with me 🙂 A while back I started to look for a suitable beginner model. I chose a fore-and-aft rigged schooner — simply because I like them — and it is easier than full-rigged ships to start with (or so I heard). I read through many nice MSW build logs here and decided to go with the Artesania Latina’s schooner Virginia 1819. The model instructions were not very thorough or detailed for a beginner and some illustrations were unreadable. No worries, MSW builders had it figured out: e.g. Trufo had posted nice drawings for the rigging: The corrected AL instructions are also available thanks to Ramzister: To fill in the gaps in the instructions, I’ve found invaluable guidance at MSW and Mastini’s book ”Ship Modelling Simplified”. Another drawback: there is a known issue with the rudder. It does not fit as per the instructions. Some builders fixed the rudder, some fixed the stern post, or even the transom. I was thinking to make at least a new sternpost. Another alternative might be to drill the rudder post directly through the deck counter instead of passing the tiller through the transom. This idea I got when reading Chapelle’s Fishing Schooners book. I don’t know if I’m able do it, we will see. I may also try out some modifications where needed. As this is my first wooden build, I try to keep it simple and learn the basics first before getting into the deep water. After reading MSW build logs, guides and videos I felt ready to start building my boat. Here goes.
  7. I'm doing this thread on the HMS Victory which is the current project. I've made good progress on construction, but I'm going to put the construction steps here and let it react before posting the next ones. All texts are those of a French forum, simply translated by Google Translate. Excuse me in advance for grammatical mistakes or syntax ... (2016, December) I have the Artesiana Latina kit at 1/84. The skeleton is mounted, I must attack the hull. This boat once mounted must be about 1m25: big bug! But before plunging headlong into curling for a very long time, I do as usual, a pause to think about what I want, what is done, how to tint, mount, etc ... For this, I gather a large library of models, photos of Victory, various docs. In the kit, no plan to scale, but a dvd and prints format A3. It bothers me a little not to "see" it in real size ... Moreover, I saw many Victory perfectly realized ... it does not interest me to remake! These two facts pushed me to wonder about this boat. I looked for a monograph close to the scale, I just ordered the monograph of the Superb at the AAMM (Association of Friends of the Navy Museum): a 74 french guns of the 18th. Conclusion: I will not do the real HMS Victory! But I will use this base to make a three masts of the eighteenth ... I will choose my colors and shades, change the castle, adapt a balcony or 2, perhaps redo bottles, adapt the kit in fact. I am going to make MY model respecting the historical codes, but not a copy of this ship. Of course, I will use the elements of the kit, but I will extrapolate according to my desires. In short, we'll see! Here is the end of sanding couples and keel (a long time to do everything clean), gluing the whole and a first bridge just screwed to maintain properly and check the squareness (2 couples deformed on the top, but nothing irrattrapable). I have a little attacked the sanding to border, but this step will be long, I will be very careful and take my time. It's so important to place strakes next.
  8. ***Santa Maria 1492 - Artesania Latina*** Hello shipmates, Before we are getting started with my new buildlog, a short introduction of myself and the ship is in order. I'm a member of this forum for many years, and I live in The Netherlands a small country in Europe. Once we were dominating the world seas by having more ships in the water as a nation then all ships from all countries combined. So ships and shipbuilding runs through the veins so to say. Unfortuately after the big crash of MSW all my photo's and my buildlogs were gone. For a few years I put my hobby asside and concentrated on my family and on my work. At this moment I've found some spare hours to work on my hobby, and I would like to share my new buildlog with you guys and gals. please have a bit patience on my written English, because it's not my native language and so I'll probably make some grammatical mistakes and I appologies upfront... To the project... History The Santa Maria originally named La Gallega, was the largest of the three ships used by Christopher Columbus in his first voyage. Her master and owner was Juan de la Cosa. She was built in Pontevedra, Galicia, in Spain's north-west region. Santa Maria was probably a medium-sized nau (Carrack), about 58ft long on deck, and according to Juan Escalante de Mendoza in 1575, SM was "very little larger than 100 toneladas" (about 100 tons, or tuns). She was the flagship for the expedition aside La Nina and La Pinta, two smaller of the caravel-type ships. Shipwreck With three masts, Santa María was the slowest of Columbus' vessels but performed well in the Atlantic Ocean crossing. Then on the return trip, on 24 December (1492), not having slept for two days, Columbus decided at 11:00 p.m. to lie down to sleep. The night being calm, the steersman also decided to sleep, leaving only a cabin boy to steer the ship, a practice which the admiral had always strictly forbidden. With the boy at the helm, the currents carried the ship onto a sandbank, running her aground off the present-day site of Cap-Haïtien, Haiti. It sank the next day and was lost forever... The build At first, let's inspect the workplace, which is the kitchen table by the way, and the box...and yes, the box on the left is my toolkit and on the right the ship... Everything looks neat and tidy at first glance. The box is well organized and the wooden parts and timber are of a good quality as can be expected from AL. However, the buildmanual turns out to be very dissapointing. A few photo's on one single page and an instruction list is all that's added to the box. The best parts are the two bigger drawings of the rigging and masts which looks very nice doh. The Bulkheads and false keel / keelplate I start by numbering all the bulkheads and parts on the plate. They are all lasercut and I use some sandpaper to remove the burn from the laser. After inspecting a collect all the parts and dry-fit them together to see how good it fits.....it doesn't! After some corrections, the bulkheads fits nicely on the false keel. However I noticed a small warp in the keelplate. I did some further inspection and Yes, it's warped just between bulkhead 12 and 10. This needs to be fixed otherwise I run into some problems later on....I took the keel plate and soaked it in some water. I let it dry between a couple of books with some pressure on the books so the plate was fixed into a flat position. I let it dry for a day and the next day it was straight. I put everything together again and glued the bulkheads into position. The false deck Next step is to place the false deck on top of the bulkheads. Again, the false keel was pre-fabricated and lasercut. I use the small brass nails and glue to fixate the plate on to the bulkheads. I have limited tools and clamps at my posession at this moment, so I use the nails. They will be coverd up later when the final layer of thin wooden strips are placed on top of the false deck. Overhere I use a nail (red circle) to "help" the deck plate a litte bit and guides it into a better position.... After his I placed some blocks to make the bow a bit stronger and sturdier. Now it's time to sand the end of the bulkhead so they are prepared for planking the first layer of the hull. It will be a dual layered or planked hull. I took my time on this process. If done correctly, the beauty of the lines and shape of hull will shown after the planking process. It is also the part were I struggle the most and we'll have to see later on if I made some mistakes or not... So, to be continued soon.... regards, Peter
  9. I decided to take the plunge to see if I could put together a wooden model ship kit. Apparently it's in my genes. My great grandfather once acquired blueprints from the Library of Congress to build a scale version of the Sovereign of the Seas. I'm definitely not reaching that high yet. Alas, I'm also not one to start with something simple. Nope. I like to know I'll get a challenge or two and expand my selection of colorful metaphors when confused. I went with the Artesania Latina Virginia 1819 kit. I really enjoy the look of it and thought it might reside in my office at work. So here she is thus far. I'm taking my time and enjoying figuring out how something is done. For instance, I looked at different ways to approach the deck planks. I opted to avoid going with the long deck planks. Rather, I went with 10mm sections and at first tried to alternate placement to give it a more realistic look but somehow I lost my place. Thus, it's a wee bit off. That's okay. I figured this is the ship I'm going to learn on so there will be more mistakes. In the end I'll look at it like I look at my woodworking projects: "complete with flaws and awl." Now I'm reading about soaking wood planks and other options for planking the hull. Think I'm going to soak a plank, bend it into place while damp, and clamp it into place letting it stay like that overnight. The next day I'll unclamp it, glue it, and tack it down. It'll be slower but from what I'm seeing on other posts that seems to be a good method. We'll see. Many thanks for looking!

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