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Found 366 results

  1. Ok first of all hello guys and gals. It's been almost three years since my last log on here. I had built the Friesland by mamoli. The build log is still here. So I got this kit awhile ago on a buy, swap and sell page. It's an old one but the wood inside is very well preserved. No warping, The rubber bands holding the strips together has long since perished. Decide to have a crack at it and see where we go from there.
  2. OK. so against my better judgement and all sensible advice, given that I have never been into modelling previously (outside of a couple of basic plastic aircraft models for a Grandson) and have no knowledge of the nautical world and it's terminology, I am proceeding to build this kit. Most of my 'modelling time' over the last few weeks has actually been spent dipping into the many great forums on this site. My build is going to be super-slow as I read up on as much detail as I can find in relation to each tremulous step. First question. The bow filler piece that came with the kit (made of 'art wood') was markedly convex on both sides. I have sanded this back significantly so that there is now enough purchase afrea for glueing. As can be seen from the photo the bottom of this piece is never going to fit flush without a lot more sanding and I think if I do this the overall integrity of the shape will be lost. Is an option just to fill the underside gap and if so, how? Or do I just keep sanding? Cheers, Ji
  3. Given the copious amounts of free time afforded by the Coronavirus lockdown, I decided to try my hand at building the Swift by Artesania Latina. I've just finished the planking, so I'll share some photos of my progress and a few brief comments. May 30, 2020 I purchased the kit on eBay from someone who had been carrying it around with them for 30 years or so. They included some old catalogs and tools from the 1980s which were a curiosity but this is what I was after: The kit was in perfect shape. No missing parts or warped wood and the bags were all sealed. I wasn't terribly scientific with the hull. I checked that all pieces were flat and extended pencil lines on the bulkheads from the slot to the top, checking for squareness. I then test fit all pieces, ensuring they were level with the top. I used some pretty high end tools to get everything nice and square: So here I made a bit of a mistake, which I didn't find out until later on. Bulkhead #5 was flush with the deck but the bottom bit closest to the keel was slightly above the hull line formed connecting bulkheads 4 and 6. I didn't realize at the time that this would cause a dip in the planking. We'll see how this plays out later. The provided small inner decks and filler blocks were no problem and were useful in ensuring squareness of the bulkheads. I took the opportunity to test some Satin minwax and did not like it at all (maybe because I only did one coat). I sat on this one for awhile. The stern filler block was a real bear. I didn't understand how to find the shape of this block from the plans, nor did I know about the old line plans available online. So instead of making these concave, I made them convex. It looked good though it was a deviation from other builds. With the hull structure (mostly) satisfactory, I then attached the upper deck. I saw some other build logs in which people had problems with this. I found it to be very straightforward by following the instructions included in the box. I traced a centerline on both sides and carefully marked out perpendicular lines for each bulkhead, then transferred those to the top. I then used the little brass nails provided with the kit to clamp the centerline and let the Weldbond dry overnight. This was pretty important because the upper deck bends in two axes, so it needs to be attached firmly before proceeding to the second bend. The next morning, I glued and nailed down the sides and used some rubber bands to help keep the shape. This was challenging because the rubber bands weren't all that strong. A couple of small clamps helped. I also managed to go through the sides of a couple of the bulkheads with my nails. But in the end, the deck laid flat with no gaps between it and the bulkheads. You'll notice that the quarterdeck has been attached as well. I was careful to bevel the stern filler block down, following the horizontal curve of the main deck. This enabled me to keep a consistent 1/8" distance between the two decks at all points. It's a small detail but it looks nice.
  4. Hi, This is my first build that I want to humbly present to you. My English is not so good, but I am able to understand all your comments. I will post a series of pictures of my work in progress. The ship has been tint with Saman waterbased tint and watersoluble varnish (Saman too) was used for protection and for clear coat. I tinted over varnish in multiple layers given more depth and opaque tints. I used CA glue (Bob Smith) and yellow wood glue (Lepage). I tried to put some pictures, but the server gives me -200 error. So, I will do it gradually. Sorry if I previously put this site on his knee before dinner. Thanks a lot for all the infos delivered by users on this forum. I Baldy had the idea to begin my project before read enough ! So, I had to corrected some mistakes from the beginning. So let me begin my my small workplace in my basement house.
  5. Hello! This is my first ever post on MSW. A friend and I recently found out about ship building and through looking at kits and build videos, we were immediately hooked - fortunately, it only took a couple days of "research" until we found MSW. Before we even had kits in our hands, we read through many build logs - the resources here are tremendously helpful, thank you all!!!! I have little woodworking experience and no modeling experience, but I was ready for the challenge. Looking at all of the beautiful boats on here is quite inspirational, and certainly narrowed my "type" of model to a wooden ship kit. As a college student, I was on a budget when looking for my first kit. The Swift kit by Artesania Latina seemed like a common starter kit, which I liked (there are already many build logs for this boat which is largely why I chose it!) I managed to find a "new" kit (the older version from 1982) on ebay for $70 with some tools/stand included. I have already started building so I will add to this thread. Bear with me - this is most likely going to be messy and slow!!!! Thanks again to everyone who's log I have already read.
  6. The Swift is my first wooden boat build, so I’m a newbie. I appreciate any suggestions, advice or input from you more experienced builders. I used to build plastic and wood aircraft models as a kid, but that was more than 50 years ago. Now that I’m retired, I have really been looking forward to building models again, particularly ship models. I’m hoping I can maintain my enthusiasm through the trials and tribulations ahead. When I first opened the box I noticed that the false keel was warped. I know for my reading (the kit directions, “Ship Modeling Simplified,” by Frank Mastini, and various articles in this forum) that it is essential to get the false keel and bulkheads perfectly aligned. So I posted questions on the Building, Framing and Planking forum about this issue, and got some good advice. Mtaylor suggested just cutting a new false keel, and both he and michael101 talked about inserting spacers between the bulkheads and clamping them to straighten out the keel. The more I looked at the false keel, the more I realized that the most obvious warps were right on the bulkhead cut lines. See attached pictures. So in the end I ordered some plywood of the same thickness and I have now cut the new false keel. It’s quite straight and I’m quite happy with it. I have begun fitting (but not gluing) the bulkheads. Obviously I’m just getting started. I really appreciate the availability of these forums because I’m convinced I’m going to need lots of advice.
  7. I've been on a little hiatus since I completed my Medway Longboat a few weeks ago and I have been mulling over too many choices of what to build next. I have 10 models on the shelf which is way too many and, in addition to those, I was considering the Cheerful by Syren and the Lady Isabella by Vanguard. The Cheerful will have to wait since Chuck is temporarily closed and having problems with the USPS and the Byrnes table saw I was going to get is temporarily out of stock due to a shortage of 120V motors. I decided to wait on the Lady Isabella too since I would like to try my hand at weathering a working vessel like the Lady Isabella and I want to learn to use my airbrush before I dive into that kind of a build So that left me deciding on a model that I already have and two of them kept drawing my attention: the Pride of Baltimore II by Model Shipways and the Pen Duick by Artesania Latina. I had picked up the AL model of the Pen Duick last year on eBay. It was out of production and, of course, AL is no more. After looking over the 3 Pen Duick build logs here on MSW and reading more about its owner, Eric Tabarly, and his phenomenal history racing the Pen Duick, my interest in her grew and she got the nod. It will also give me a chance to learn to use my airbrush that was a Christmas gift from my wife this year. There have been a series of 6 Pen Duick ocean racing yachts. The original Pen Duick, a gaff rigged cutter, was built in Ireland in 1898. Eric Tabarly's father acquired her in 1938 when Eric was 7 years old and taught him how to sail on her. Eric went on to become one of the most legendary, long distance racing sailors in the history of the sport winning and setting records in transatlantic and transpacific races among many others. The Pen Duick eventually fell into disrepair and the hull rotted after World War II. Eric began restoring her in 1956 and completed the restoration in 1958 with a new polyester resin hull. Tragically, Eric Tabarly drowned in the Irish Sea on the night of June 12-13, 1998, when he was knocked overboard by a spar. His body was recovered by the trawler An Yvidig on July 20. Eric Tabarly in 1990: The Pen Duick: The AL model of the Pen Duick is based on the boat after she was restored in 1958. I found the materials nicely packaged and everything appears to be there although I haven't inventoried it yet. The false keel and bulkheads are nice plywood and the laser cutting is clean. There are also some mahogany laser cut parts. Planking strips of ramin and mahogany along with some African walnut dowels for the mast etc. The brass fittings are very nice and there are some white metal fittings and brass strips. The belaying pins are the typical, ugly, bulbous ones that are in so many kits. I'm sure I'll end up making new ones and I will probably replace the blocks and rope with some from Syren. The sails leave a lot to be desired and they don't match up in size with the plans. I might have to learn how to sew.... There are two, large, double sided sets of plans and they appear to be 1:1 but that is not indicated on the plans. The sails certainly do not match up with the plans either; they're too small. The instructions are in several languages including English but they are very brief. The instructional photos are a bit more help but I'll still be flying by the seat of my pants trying to figure things out. I want to try and do the deck planking with joggles as shown below. The kit simply has a straight piece of mahogany laid down the middle of the boat from the stem to the stern. The build by hof00 here on MSW was done this way and he explains how he did it. I think it will be tough to get all those joggles laid out and cut correctly and to be able to plank the deck so it's symmetrical on both sides. This will be a long shot for me but I'll give it a go and see how big of a mess I can make.... I picked up this used book on eBay hoping that it would have some nice photos in it but it's more about the various versions of the Pen Duick and their racing history. It is a very good read though. I have the feeling, for whatever reason, that this build may turn into a rather directionless adventure for me. I hope some of you will take an interest in following along and, perhaps, steer me in the right direction when you see me veering off into the abyss. So here we go...
  8. Hello to all. This is my first attempt at a build log for my current project. This will be my third build, the first is the Bluenose by Billing Boats which is currently waiting for deck materials. My second build was the Hannah ship in a bottle which is finished. So while waiting for the Bluenose deck, I have started on Le Renard. So, here we go! First a picture of the box. And it's contents.. Everything looks very good, no warped or cracked parts, and everything was well packaged. The instructions looks great, one for the hull and one for the rig. There is no fullsize plan though. So I started at page one, and that is with the basic hull skeleton assembly. First I removed all the bulkheads and keel from their cutouts(?) and sanded off the little points that hold them. One of the bulkheads had a little fault from the production of the plywood sheet itself. I'll fill this with a thin piece of wood and glue.. Then dryfitting of all the parts, all the slots were a little loose, so the bulkheads will need clamping with a square while the glue dries. As seen here the bulkheads lean left and right due to the loose fit. At least the loose fit will give room for glue. Everything seems to fit together, and it looks kinda like in the instructions, so time to open the glue bottle. Don't you just love that new glue bottle all clean and shiny, and say to yourself, "this time I'm gonna keep it clean and the tip nice and open" Yeah, at least I know how long that's gonna last..😁 First bulkhead glued in, all square and true! Not a whole lot done, but I think it's a good start! Stay safe out there and enjoy your models! Gaffrig
  9. After finishing my last build (link is in my profile) I started a ship in a bottle. I am still working with that, but I can only spend so much time working at such a tiny level, I prefer the larger models. So I will be tinkering with the ship in a bottle intermittently. I was pretty bummed when I found out Artesania Latina closed their doors, and one day I was speaking with my fiancé about it. The local hobby store in her hometown just happened to have one more AL model on the shelf and she picked it up for my anniversary gift. I was originally planning on starting a victory, but I am beyond excited to start a different style of ship. One thing that recently caught my interest while browsing other builds is the idea of opening up the doors and windows and finishing the interior as well. I am still in the planning stages for that, but as of now I am planning on adding a small casino room, a kitchen (if I can find the parts) and a couple of bedrooms.
  10. Hi everyone. I'm a new member of MSW but have viewed the contents on the site off and on for the last year. I'm starting my build log a bit late. I actually started the AL Victory in Feb'19. It has been about 30 years since I built my last wooden ship (USS Constitution kit by Mamoli). However, I had been thinking for the last 10 years about building 1 more ship. How could I go wrong with the most famous ship in naval history (at least in my opinion). I actually was going to build a the Fokker DR1 (Red Baron's triplane from WWI) first, but when it got ordered for Christmas and still had no word late January when it would be delivered, I plugged the plug on the plane and dove in the deep end with Victory. I seriously considered the Caldercraft kit for Victory, but I just didn't have the funds saved up for that. I would have to wait another year! So, I found the AL Victory on ebay and got it for $600, which I thought was reasonable. I haven't been disappointed with the AL kit. I like the quality of the wood. The instructions are ok. The full color instruction guide (no CD/DVD) has lots of pictures for reference. Building a model of this type is not for the faint of heart. The instruction guide is OK, but one needs to always be looking forward as to how a certain area of the model is going to change to ensure the earlier steps are done right. So, experience really helps. Right up front, I chose to do some customizations to the build: 1) Plate the hull with copper 2) Build out the lower gun deck with full cannons versus just exposing the cannon barrels attached to a blackened façade behind the port holes 3) Add lighting to the interior of the ship (thus wanting to have the lower gun deck fully available) 4) I'm painting half the ship with Victory's Trafalgar colors and the other half I'm leaving with the natural wood that's varished. The National Museum of the Royal Navy produced a video in 2015 (see here) describing the true colors of Victory in 1805. A big reason for choosing these colors is that for the masts, the color is a muted ivory color, which is relatively close to basswood and thus when viewing the side of the model with natural wood, it wouldn't be a distraction. A lot of this customization work is already done. So far, I'm at approximately 420 hours. At this rate, I expect to be in the 1500 hour ballpark before I finish. Thanks for reading. Any feedback is appreciated. Ron
  11. Hi everyone, Here is my slow-time build log of the Dallas Cutter. The pictures are a bit rough and ready and were taken originally as a memory jogger for myself...little did I know.... 😉 The Dallas was started 25 years ago and I got as far as finishing the hull before the project was put into cold storage. Here is the front cover of the box which contained all the parts, 3x very good layout drawing sheets and a (sometimes confusing) 15 page Instruction Booklet 25 yrs ago the hull starts to get the planking fitted. Hull planking finished. Decking started. Hull and decking finished, mostly. June/July 2020. Deck fittings etc installed. Some parts highlighted with 'Canadian Cedar' Danish Oil. Railings being installed. Note: new £15 battery powered Banggood 'Dremel' bottom right. It works OK and battery lasts a reasonable time. However the supplied brass collets don't have their holes drilled in the centre of the collet so drills cut slightly large (and vibrate). I also have an actual battery powered Dremel + extension cable, but it is a bit heavy handed for the finer work. Almost ready for masts and rigging. Dummy deck idea, to facilitate the assembly of mast and rigging away from the 'real' ship to prevent damage to deck fittings. I'm unsure whether I'll actually use this dummy deck...might just fit straight onto real ship....pondering. OK, that's it for now. Any advice/comments gladly received. All the best, Richard
  12. This is my First Build since I was a child, My first boat is unfinished and gathering dust at my Mothers house with copious amounts of filler. Im going to have lots of questions and I'm hoping to find some good tips here.
  13. I started this build almost 30 years ago. After completing the hull and deck fittings it was packed away (in newspaper dated 1986). I moved from to the US from the UK in 91 and brought it with me. Needing something to do to relax, I decided to restart the build and try my hand at masts and rigging. We'll see how relaxing tying small knots turns out to be! Progress so far: Basic inventory - except for rigging line, everything seems to be there. Damage - one pump handle is broken. Tools - purchased a few obvious hand tools; tweezers, rigging toolset, new x-acto blades, built a small (12"x24") workbench. Reading - as well as this site, I have copies of Ship Modeling Simplified (Frank Mastini) and Model Sailing Ships - Design and Construction (Robert F. Brien). Immediate to-do's: Read the books and plans - I need to get a better handle on terminology and techniques. Decide on any changes to existing hull work. Calculate size and quantities of rigging line - I'm thinking of using line from Syren. Start work on yards and booms. Some pictures: The original box Minor damage after a 3800 mile journey Lots still to do
  14. For my next ship build I decided to finally drag the Artesania Latina US Constellation kit out of my stash and start building it. It was given to me by a good friend as a birthday present 9 years ago and has languished on the shelf since then; partly because it was intimidating, but mostly because I did not have the work space big enough to set it up and build it and lastly I did not know where I would display it once built - still don't but that will be dealt with later on. Even the box it comes in is huge and intimidating. I first constructed a build board that will hold it. Unfortunately I routed a groove along the centerline of the board to hold the keel but when the keel sits down in the groove the bulkheads don't seat fully, so I set it flush on the board and screen small cleats alongside the keel to keep it upright and straight. Some startup photos are below: So far I have dry fit all the bulkheads, sanded them as needed and am now slowly gluing them in place use small pieces of aluminum angle to keep everything perpendicular to the false keel. At this point everything is just dry fit
  15. This is my second build, first was the GJOA by Constructo. Happy enough with that one apart from the sails and rigging work. Sails seemed a bit bulky material wise, and the rigging i was sort of clueless on,the writer of the instruction book seemed to give up long before reaching the rigging stage, so i winged it. Hadnt discovered this forum until recently, so hoping to do much better with the HMS Bounty by following some of the advice posted on here. Though whether i do the rigging and sails on this one is yet to be decided. I mostly lurk here reading other peoples logs for ideas and tips on how to do certain things. Wasnt sure whether to create one myself as my camera isnt the best, but ill give it a shot and hopefully keep it going. I need to get better lighting sorted which will hopefully make the photos a bit clearer. I started about a week ago. Very impressive box on opening it, well packaged. The drawings (Multiple!), written instructions and picture instructions all look very impressive, though from reading on here it seems these become less impressive further in. First task was to label all the precut sheets of wood for easier reference from the paper cut sheet, mark the frame numbers and then cut them out. Next was to sand the laser char off. Started by hand as i was afraid of taking too much off, but ended up using a dremel (cheap brand version) jammed in my vice with a sanding attachment on it to do the heavy work, finishing off with a narrow hand file. Not too sure how much you need to sand off, i dont get them spotlessly clean but the glue seems to hold anyway. Do kit manufacturers leave extra wood on the parts to account for sanding off the laser char? All sanded and dry fitted. The slip is the Hobbyzone small building slip,purchased for this build. Would have preffered the bigger one as you can rotate it, but didnt have the desk space. Though the small one can apparently turn 180 degrees either way, but i dont see how. The arms rotate, but they sit flush on the bottom, so one side can rotate up, but the other cant go down? The instructions werent the best for it, only several parts to it, but i still managed to glue several parts in the wrong place before i realised. 😄 Next task was to stain all the parts. I used Littlefairs Dark Walnut wood stain (Is it alright to mention brand names here?).One coat was enough, any more felt a bit too dark compared to the supplied walnut wood. Couldnt decide whether to stain the parts that get glue later or tape them off. Going by google apparently wood glue wont stick to stained wood, but ive seen alot on here glue onto the stain. Did a quick test and the glue seems to hold, so i coated everything. Perhaps not as strong as before, but enough for model purposes hopefully. I intend to follow Thomaslambo's way of doweling, and dowel some of the cross beams into the frames which should strengthen it all quite a bit anyway. I didnt stain the outside edges to give the planking a better grip, though i forgot some of them will be exposed in the open hull, though i intend to follow other builds again and veneer the exposed ply edges with 0.5mm walnut, think it will look a bit better than exposed ply layers. Ive fitted half of the frames now. They arent perfect,hoping once the decks etc are on it will square them a bit further.I messed about with the first 2 alot, the fore and aft, trying to get them as square as i could so that i could measure off of them,the ones after that were installed using a combination of 2 levels, a square, and some balsa jammers cut to size. Turns out my desk or floor has a run, so i had to glue packers to the bottom side of my building slip to get it level first of all. Then i could keep one level on the first frame which was set the day previously, making sure it stays level and then set the other frames with another level. The instructions state that the slots on the keel for the frames are at regular spacings. Maybe im interpreting that wrongly, but to me that means they should all be the same? They arent anyway, so i have several balsa jammers cut at 32,35 and 36mm so that i can clamp onto the previous frame when gluing up. Am also using the middle deck to align the frames, along with the jammers. First half of the frames are fitted, almost have the lower crossbeams fitted to them all, and thats the stage im at so far. I also moved desk in between those photos, as i outgrew my small one. So the computer is now on the small desk and my modelling stuff has taken over the large desk ! Looking towards the next parts. Id like to scratch build some of the interior cabins,fittings etc as several other build logs have done. I dont really need a wood lathe, but considering getting one to make some columns and bannisters etc for the stairs. We'll see 😉
  16. First build log for first ship attempt. Already planked realizing I should create a log to document it! So far I found planking to be pleasantly challenge. Love the fact that if you take your time, most mistakes can be sanded out! I minimized the number of nails when I planked and pulled many out after glue dried (tightbond capenter's glue and cy to "spot weld" when needed). I've got the rubbing strakes on and now working on the railing. Need to give a shout out to DocBlake for his keel clamp. I followed his sample images substituting wingnuts because I had them available. Awesome clamp!
  17. Didn’t take long for me to get the new kit opened and unboxed. I figured ill present the contents of the kit since it seems to be a less common kit on this website. I was initially planning on doing a master korabel but the hobby shop called me with too good of a deal to turn down. Upon opening the the box I was fairly impressed with the contents, especially after my recent build which was fairly basic. All of the parts are laser cut and pop out easy. I haven’t opened and closely inspected the die cast parts but at first glance looking through the case it all appears to be good quality. The sales came pre-sewn, which is a very nice touch. This will be my first attempt at assembling and planking a ship, so we will see how it goes.
  18. Hi Everyone. I hope that I am doing this right? I am not very IT savvy, however Hope to get it right one day. I am attempting the Cutty Sark as my first build, after doing little bit's previously. I am very new to modelling and find this site very informative. I never took many photos when I first started as there was no need at the time, however I have a few after I did the decking, I am a bit further on now so will take more pics when my new camera battery comes, "I let it run down too much and it wouldn't recharge?" Sorry about the big pic I don't know what happened, I thought it was resized. God bless everyone hope you all keep safe. Kind regards Martin.
  19. So I started on another kit but it proved to be a bit over my head so I have started with this kit. So far it has been straightforward. There seems to be enough plank work to get me ready for more advanced kits to come. I have NO experience and I’m building the kit On a limb 😬. I know I have plenty of advice and help from this forum and will be using it...a lot. Please lend all the Crits and advice you can give me. It will be a slow process as I’m sure most of these type kits are but so far it’s been very relaxing. Thanks for tuning in!
  20. Had this started 9 years ago, as usual life got in the way but managed to put a bit together here and there. Not worth starting a build log just to have it seem abandoned. Just started again the other day with a bit more time available. Building this for my Admiral who would love to travel on one, but because of her own issues barely leaves the house. Likeley to be a slow build so please bear with me. Progress so far. Hull built and planked Livestock area. I added tie rings to both side. You don't want animals fighting over the hay or running wild on deck! Hooks for the livestock area. Rounded tops so no animal injuries! Barn doors and hinge. Looks better from a normal viewing distance 🙂 And where would I be without my helper! Cheers for now, Bob
  21. I'm going to get a Artesania Latina Hellen kit from a friend. The hull as been put together, but that is as far as they got on it. I'm thrilled to get this kit, it's been out of production for a while and it peaks my interest, so I said what the heck, I get it and finish it. I comes with a 540 geared drive motor, speed control and a few extras. I'm not fond of plastic hulls, so I will see how it goes.
  22. Here goes! My first shot at building. I had purchased the AL Scottish Maid and quickly realized this is by no means a beginner project, thus it has been put aside. The Viking was actually started aprox. 6 months ago and for reasons unknow it sat gathering dust. First picture is obviously the hull and my work station. Being my first build log, my etiquette may be off please feel free to correct me David
  23. I started this build 6 years ago, got the hull bone and then stuff in life started ! Now my kids are 18 and 17 i finaly have time on my hands .....yay ! So i dicided i'd start builing again , since my restart ive spent about 20 hours on my ship i'll poste pics tonight . Cheers André
  24. Hello MSW. I am starting my AL Constellation kit I purchased from a fellow MSW member. As a newbie, I followed many of the build logs for a while and found them to be full of great ideas and advice. Hopefully, someone will benefit in the same way from mine. Cutting to the chase, I opened the box and did a parts list inventory... which took way longer than I anticipated. The way AL set up the parts list was "interesting" with regards to all the strips of wood. Instead of having a list of what should be in the box, i.e. 30 strips of this and 40 strips of that, you need to go through all 446 parts. Each part that was made from the various wood strips was listed with its approximate finished size. So if you needed 10 pieces of a part that were 30mm long you would have to measure off 300mm from one of the supplied strips. Unless you want to spend days checking everything it is a virtually impossible task. I would imagine someone at AL has already done this so why not supply a general what's in the box list along with the detailed list already given? I didn't bother checking the wooden strips, just the individual pieces. There were a few items that came up slightly short in the count like some deadeyes, blocks, belaying pins and some other minor things that can be picked up on-line or at a local hobby shop. What did surprise me is that there were no chains at all for the anchor and stern decor. No biggie, picked that up at a dept. store. Here is what was inside. Reviewing the instructions, it is a good thing I have an engineering background. They are somewhat vague but there are a lot of pics to go by. Then probably the most important part of the kit... the bubble wrap. I plan on taping it to the wall behind my chair so when I bang my forehead into the wall for doing something stupid it won't hurt so much!! My next step will be to set up my work area and create a fixture to squarely secure the keel while I start the framing (bulkheads). As with any project, if the frame is not right, the rest will follow as such.
  25. box of goodies! note i have already removed the main deck and frames. frames and deck assembeled. Next decision after planking is whether to install the deck beams before sanding the frames to shape to offer some support to the bulwark timbers as they are rather flimsy- especially the poop deck ones (instructions suggest sanding frames first). Keith

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