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Found 15 results

  1. Started this kit yesterday (8/17/2021). The building manual is very detailed, easily understood English, and has great illustrations. I read through both volumes item by item twice before starting. The Hull is pretty standard for plank-on-frame construction. However, it's the most intricate PoF I've ever done. I've been following the instructions, but also looking ahead at upcoming steps to anticipate how they may be impacted by a current step. For instance, in one of the photos I put a pencil to point at a bulkhead to "keel" glue joint. I like to leave a glue fillet at frame/keel joins but it was clear that if I left one at the indicated spot I'd have to cut it away to get a proper fitting of a keel extention done at a step that comes up a couple of pages later in the instructions. I was able to scrape away the fillet at those spots before the glue took a set, and I was careful to keep glue out of similar areas as I went forward. Another benefit of looking forward was that I could "dry fit" reinforcement stringers to the bulkheads while the glue on the bulkhead/keel join was still flexible. This ensured that all the pieces of fairly complex interlocking fit together perfectly as the glue dried. Others may think of this as pretty basic, but this is my first time at doing a PoF hull with so many interlocking pieces. I'm using Elmer's non-waterproof woodworking glue (a PVA adhesive) and I like the way it takes a "semi-set" in about 5 min, but remains flexible enough that the reinforcing pieces can be dry fit before the glue sets up so much that slight bending of the joint might break the seal. I'm allowing the major steps to cure a few hours before proceeding to the next steps, plus allowing an overnight cure for major assemblies. The photos show where I got on Day 1, plus this morning to add the bow and stern keel extentions with one bulkhead dry fitted to ensure that the fore keel extention stayed vertical as the glue cured. These have had a three hour cure and I'll start adding bulkheads fore and aft now, while dry fitting the reinforcing stringers. They will get glued at the end of today for an overnight cure. The plans seem to imply that one glues the two pieces of aft keel extention together after the first piece is glued to the center keel. That looked to me like a prescription for frustration, so I pre-glued them and their reinforcement pieces flat on the building board, as you can see in one of the photos. This doesn't seem to have caused any problems. I don't know why this is in 2 pieces. The only reason I can figure out is that Amati couldn't find room for it in their laser-cutting layout without adding another piece of plywood to the inventory. I would have preferred that they add the extra sheet of plywood to do this in one piece and to make the main keel in one piece. My tape measure says it would have just barely fit in the box. One of the things I intend to do with this build log is list the tools/supplies I needed for each step. This might help others planning their build. So far, I've needed: Wood glue, a celotex board to pin the keel pieces to ensure everything in the center section stays flat, wax paper to prevent glue sticking to the board, a 12" bar sander with 80 grit sandpaper and a nail file emory board to remove attachment nubs from the laser cut pieces, and a #11 hobby knife.
  2. Hi All, Something newish for me thanks to the inspiration of others on this site. I started this build several years ago, 2008? I got the basic hull and some Superstructure almost compete and thought it was time to drag it out again.... Reasons for this is that I am tired of sitting on my Chuff for the last couple of months waiting for surgery on a torn right Rotator Cuff and looking like I'll be languishing for a couple more month's to come. The scale and size makes things a little easier to accomplish with my left hand. 🙂 The Partworks version is essentially an Amati offering in 140 magazine issues and it seemed too good an opportunity to re-start proceedings. (I have the Trumpeter 1/200 version with MK1 Detail set and the Tamiya 1/350 version also.) I began this afternoon by ensuring all subsequent issues and contents were present and put aside the 1/400 Titanic for a future when I have both arms fully operational 🙂 So, don't know how far I can get but my best shot and it's better than casting around feeling "Disabled." The Hull looks good for the time it's been in storage, some attention with filling, sanding and primer will help The Superstructure components will be wrapped in PE I'm looking forward to getting stuck in!! (A very big "Thank you" to the Gentlemen currently building the Amati version, it's given me much needed inspiration!!) Cheers....HOF. Photos:
  3. Back in 2020 I saw this post on MSW: 1:200 Bismarck - coming soon! The Bismarck kit was announced by Amati. I have built Amati kits before and know that they are top quality. I was working on an Aeronaut model of the Prinz Eugen heavy cruiser at the time - not a great kit but it turned out OK. I started checking the Amati site every few days, and over a year later I finally found it offered for sale on agesofsail.com. I ordered it immediately and am about ready to start.
  4. Hi all, Early next year, Amati will release their new 1:200 Bismarck kit. This one will be a beast! Here's some info on this forthcoming kit: Length 127 cm Height 29 cm Width 18 cm Hull: plank on frame (also ready to accommodate RC Control) Laser etched wooden decks Anton Bruno Cesar and Dora turrets made in plywood and covered with photoetched brass. Metal gun barrels. Options for three style of camouflage, dependent on career stage. Wooden base for etched plate Decals for Sound Locator System. The Bismarck will be unveiled at the Nuremberg Toy Fair between 29th January - 2nd February 2020, by Krick, Amati's German distributor. Here's a few photos. I'll add more over the next weeks
  5. Greetings everyone ! My son just turned 8 and has an interest in model building - so we have decided to purchase this model in 12 installments. As a kid I used to love getting packages in the mail - he's so fired up he already checked out books on battleships at his school library. Time is flying by as he grows up - and dont want to miss out. My Ancre builds can wait for now. The ship has interesting features - working lights, revovling turrets - over 4 feet long. I will want to weather it a bit to take away from its toy like appearance - so will be looking for suggestions. Here's a link to the website. We ordered the first shipment last night ! I hear great things about this company from some of the members on the forum - its a bit pricy at 129 per month - but totally worth it to teach my son scale modeling skills and have a good time while doing it,. https://www.agoramodels.com/us/bismarck/?wmc-currency=USD&gclid=CjwKCAjw7J6EBhBDEiwA5UUM2rMWHi28rMOlLQINzTNyomjJ7jFdkcC-2RnK9ZNSfDAKdW8YSTwlUxoCW3wQAvD_BwE As soon as the first shipment arrives we will post photos.
  6. Hi all, I've done some preparations for my latest Card Kit, the famous (infamous? ) German WW2 Battleship "Bismarck". The "Kit" is published by GPM in Poland. My first impressions are that the printing is not quite up to the standard of my IJN Amatsukaze (Halinski), but still quite good. Halinski's models have a more pronounced "weathering" and texturing, widely regarded as one of the best available. The Instructions are once again in Polish, so Google Translate will be getting another workout . As with the Halinski kit there is nothing to indicate on which of the 25 Parts Sheets any of the parts are, so again I've spent a full day filling out a Data-sorted Spreadsheet to enable a quick find of them. This idea worked brilliantly on Amatsukaze, and is well worth the effort : I bought this kit from Pav (maaaslo) - he'd bought it a while ago from GPM but didn't think he'd ever start it. Along with the kit came the Laser Cut frames, a real timesaver . Unfortunately, there was a page missing. No big deal, as one side of the page was merely an Advert for other kits, but all the Instructions were on the reverse side. Luckily, Slog sent me a translation of the missing page, so all's well . I also have all (or at least most of) the extra Laser Cut Detail sets, a big stack of PE for the other details, and the full compliment of turned Gun Barrels. Danny
  7. Ok, here's a quickie reboot of my Bismarck thread as requested: At the moment this is jut about the biggest, scariest (in more ways than one!) chunk of plastic that you can pick off the shelf at your local Rob-E-shop. Here's the hull next to a 1/350 Tirpiz (Bismarck's sister-ship): The kit is fairly impressive "out of the box" but it has it's problems. The first thing that worried me about the kit was the sorry shape of the porthole molds. Trumpeter molded all the portholes straight on the broadside angle and also molded the major superstruture pieces whole, rather like lego blocks This means that every porthole on the hull that is not directly broadside is warped. For example: There are plenty of curves on this ship... which means a awful lot of portholes to fix. The hull is also extremely thick plastic... great for strength and stability but after drilling out the portholes it made them look like little round cave openings instead of ports. This was my first attempt to fix the warped portholes with putty and drilling; it did't turn out the way I wanted. Also, it turns out the hull shape is wrong below the waterline and has too much of a "banana" shape to it which makes painting a waterline and boot top a bit challenging as it is not marked off with scribing or raised lines like most plastic ship models. More to come...
  8. Hi everybody, I actually started this November of 2016. for a long time I didn't want to create a build log because all I have for a camera is an Iphone se. I didn't take many photos up till now, but I will from now on if the photo quality is ok. Even tho I'm about halfway done here are the few photos I have so far. This is the first model I have built since Revell kits 25 years ago when I was 11 years old. So you won't see anything fantastic here The first few photos is after the hull and deck have been completed. Some photo etch and deck fittings ready for paint with Tamiya Sky Grey before weathering and after weathering. this is the first time i have ever weathered. It's not a good job but it is what it is. More photo etch. Also the smallest set of stairs i have ever seen. And painted along with some guns shes wondering why I have been working on my model for 6 hours forgeting to take her for a walk These Veteran Model mini kits of the various guns are so great. The detail is amazing! my work bench And finally some railing work brings us to where i am now with the model.
  9. Hello. First excuse my English. Im Slovak. I had building log of my Bismarck here but from any time has been closed and not visible for everyone. Only for me when I was logged in. For this one I delete it... Between this time I finished this build and bring few slides. I dont know how many pictures I can publish...
  10. Good evening everyone The kit is ordered, the Deluxe PE kits is not available in the UK at present, should be another couple of weeks The Victory is safe and secure for a while, and will be finished The Workroom has had a bit of a make over as well, i put a window in at the weekend, at last i have some natural light in there and a different carpet as the one i had, it was impossible to find anything when dropped onto it, research http://www.ipmsstockholm.se/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2250&start=30 http://www.kbismarck.com/models/ http://3dhistory.de/wordpress/3d-models/dkm-bismarck/bismarck-high-res http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=144178 http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html https://www.facebook.com/BismaarckModell148Scale/photos_stream http://www.bismarck-class.dk/shipmodels/shipmodels_menu.html
  11. Hi, Welcome to the restart of my Bismarck card model build log An explanation of why I decided to redo my log is in order. Around the end of December 2012 I received my card kit of the Bismarck and worked on it until the middle of February 2013 and in that time I did the lower hull ribs, the funnel main structure and partially built the spotlights. The minimal log from that time was lost in the crash and I reposted a couple of pics to get going again in MSW 2.0 The build fell by the wayside due to space and time constraints and as time wore on I became less happy with the work I had done and after seeing various logs of the Trumpeter Bismarck I decided I wanted to do that version of the Bismarck with the Pontos accessary pack down the track at some stage. Lately though I decided I still wanted to do a card model and started looking again for a suitable replacement, thinking I would get something different around March. Well after some serious thought I decided to continue with the card GPM Bismarck and will order another so I can redo some of what I have done already and essentially get 2 bites of the cherry for each element Okay, on with the build log. There is nothing new to show at the moment that hasn’t been seen either MSW 1.0 or 2.0. I ordered the kit from GPM (http://gpm.pl/en ) and shortly afterwards some of GPMs own 1mm and 2mm card stock since (IMHO) the whole, which card stock to use and weights etc is very confusing. Experienced card modellers will have a list of usual stuff that works for them but starting out I thought it would be easier to use what the manufacturer stocks. I also ordered various photo etch components which I will cover below. Lastly, I bought the Anatomy of the Ship ‘The Battleship BISMARCK’ book from Modellers Shipyard (http://www.modelshipyard.com.au/ ) here in Australia as it was on sale at the time. The kit (do you call a printed book a kit?) is an A3 size book of 20 plus pages. The inside cover is the history and specifications of the actual ship. The following pages are double sided and have about an A4’s worth of instructions, 4 pages of assembly plans showing the parts assembly and where they go and a general arrangement plan showing major assembly positions. There are around 9 thin single sided pages for all the ribs, forms underlying structures etc that need to be glued to thick card and make up the hull, structure etc. There are 16 pages of thicker paper which contains all the printed colour parts, details etc . These are used straight from the sheet and glued to underlying formers or attached to thinner card before use. The printing and colouring appear very good (although I found some components a bit dark). The overall ‘paint’ job has a degree of weathering which I think looks nicer than straight blocks of single colours. It also depicts the Baltic paint scheme (I think?) with the black and white diagonal stripes and the aerial recognition swastikas on the decks. As expected everything is in Polish but I typed all the instructions in to Google Translator and then pasted into Word, saved and printed out the English translation. On the whole it makes sense with a couple of strange bits but nothing to worry about. Any words on the plans themselves I just enter the word and then write it on the plans. The numbering can be confusing initially but once you get used to it is pretty straight forward. Each individual part has a part number which when completed into a specific item becomes an assembly with another assembly number which is shown on the arrangement plans for placement. Previously as I completed parts and assemblies I would highlight the part and assembly on the plans with a yellow highlighter to show they were done. The brass Photo-etch detail set consists of 3 sheets and is used to replace some of the finer details which would be either 2 chunky or basic if paper. The stand out items are the radar antennas and aircraft catapults. Compared to a plastic kit detail set like Pontos or MK1 there isn’t nearly as much but enough to sharpen it up. Next to each part there is a number etched in which corresponds to the part numbers on the plans it replaces. I went through and highlighted the plan numbers to show a replacement etch part is available. The 20mm cannons are replaced by this photo etch sheet which makes 12 cannons. The GPM website recommends 1 sheet for the build. The sheet also comes with a little printed piece of paper with the assembly diagram. Each gun has 20 parts to it excluding the ammo magazines which are made of 3 pieces each. The 37mm cannons are replaced with 2 photo-etch sheets with each sheet containing enough parts to build 5 twin 37mm cannon assemblies giving a total of 10. The assembly diagram shows 40 numbered parts but since there are more than one of some parts the total is 65 parts per complete cannon assembly. The website suggests 1 sheet of 2 rail hand rails and 6 sheets of 3 rail handrails for the build. 1 sheet is needed for ladders and stairs. The stairs actually have a tread pattern in them. The detail set above contains quite a lot of specific size ladders so these must be supplementary to that. I also got the gun barrel set which contains the 380mm (15”) in aluminium, the 150mm (6”) in brass, the 105mm (4”) in brass and brass 37mm. All but the smallest barrels have bore holes in the ends. Here are all the hull components glued on to thick card. The lower hull ribs in the bottom of the picture on the cutting mat, which will have been seen before, are all cut to size and fitted. Everything above P4B still needs trimming to final shape and fitting. As can be seen there is still a mass to do. The GPM website sells the Bismarck in a set with the laser cut card hull forms which replaces, I think, everything in the photo. Previously you could buy the Bismarck book by itself so since I have to purchase the set I will hold off continuing to trim the remainder until I receive laser cut forms to see. When I order the replacement Bismarck I will also get a photo-etch sheet of portholes, a sheet of photo-etch 1:200 scales figures and elastic thread for aerial wires. The figures are flat but I think the process is to build them up to shape with blobs of glue and then bend them to position. Again, apologies for going over the same old stuff but; fresh start, fresh log. Cheers Slog
  12. Here is a new build, the Bismarck. All I can say is that this is one kit that needs photo etch as there is very little detail. I would expect more from Tamiya. Anyway here are shots of the sprues
  13. So sad to find out that the forum suffered a massive failure and lost all of the data. So to help get it back on it's feet I'll start a build log of my paper Bismarck. I started the build back in January and progress has been slow. I have it at my office and work on it during lunch, so all I can do are just a couple of pieces each day. There's suppose to be around 7,000 pieces to the model, so it will take a while to complete. I'm keeping track of the number of pieces I put on in a spread sheet, this way I count them as I go along. I'll post pics soon. William
  14. I'm starting a build log on the Trumpeter 1/200 scale Bismarck. This is my first time posting on here so please be patient with this newbie. I previously built the 1/200 Arizona and thought I did a decent job. So when the Bismarck was released it was a no brained. I have the upgrade set, Eduard central area, and white ensign superstructure railing. I'm not trying to make a 100% museum piece, just wanting to make a great model of a ship I have obsessed about since a child (I'm 42 now) I will update when I can because I work 2 jobs so please be patient and I greatly appreciate any and all advice
  15. Hi i am posting some of my model Bismarck at 1:100 scratchbuilding from styrene, brass, wood.
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