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Found 21 results

  1. As I get underway with the continuation of this build log, I will hopefully be able to include some past photos. I've discovered that all my model photos prior to 2013 reside (I hope) on an old hard drive that is no longer attached to my computer. I had to replace the motherboard last year, and the new one didn't support the old hard drive. So it may be a while before I can retrieve those photos. This model of Oneida will represent the brig as she was armed in 1813, with sixteen 24 pounder carronades and two 6 pounder long guns. I also hope to fully rig her, but time will tell! Here is the current state of the model-- This post is a bit of a placeholder at the moment but I should have some more to add soon. Ron
  2. 1:50 Brig Aris – Historical Ships range Navarino Models Catalogue # C502 Available from Navarino Models for €549,00 The 350-ton Aris was constructed as a merchant vessel in Venice in 1807. Upon the outbreak of the Greek Revolution in March 1821, her owner, Anastasios Tsamados (1774-1825) from Hydra, armed the ship with 16 12-pounder guns and joined the fleet of his home island. Aris participated in many of the early naval clashes with the Ottoman Navy but became famous after the action fought at Navarino on 8 May [O.S. 26 April] 1825, which became known as the "Sortie of Aris" (Έξοδος του Άρεως). At that time, a Greek garrison was quartered at the island at Sphacteria, which controlled the entrance of the excellent natural harbour of the Bay of Pylos (Navarino). Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, tasked by the Ottoman sultan to suppress the Greek revolt, needed to take the island in order to use the bay for his own purposes. Aris, along with 5 other brigs, were anchored at Sphacteria when, on the morning of April 26, the combined Ottoman-Egyptian fleet arrived and started its attack on the island, bombarding the Greek positions and disembarking numerous troops. Most captains of the ships were on land, along with part of their crews, who were manning the island's cannons. The other ships sailed before the Ottoman fleet could seal off the bay, and after fighting off the Ottomans, were able to escape. The crew of Aris however still awaited their captain, who had been killed. Instead, Nikolaos Votsis, the captain of the Athena, which had already sailed without him, and Dimitrios Sachtouris, the commander of the Navarino fortress, came aboard, fleeing the advancing Egyptian soldiers. Votsis took over as captain, with Sachtouris as his first mate, and set sail. Also present on the ship was the Secretary of State, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, who was sent to the hold for safety. Aris sailed through the midst of the Turco-Egyptian fleet, being attacked on all sides for several hours and facing in total 32 ships one after another, before reaching the open sea. Casualties among the crew were just two dead and six wounded. After the end of the War of Independence, the ship was bought by the Greek government for the new Royal Hellenic Navy and renamed Athena (Αθηνά). It reverted to its old name in 1879, and was in service, mainly as a training vessel for the Hellenic Naval Academy, until 7 April [O.S. 25 March] 1921, when it was ceremonially sunk off Salamis with full honours on the 100th anniversary of the Greek Revolution. The action, justified on the grounds of the expense involved in the ship's maintenance, caused much criticism at the time from those who favoured her retention as a naval monument. Today, only the ship's figurehead is preserved, at the National Historical Museum of Athens. The kit This is our second Navarino Models review, with me taking a look at their Brockley Combe back in 2018. This time, Navarino have done the subject they always wanted to tackle, and that is a ship that was a belligerent at the battle from which the company named itself. And they’ve not done this by half either, with this release being presented in a high-quality birch ply box with a sliding lid that has a little trough for your finger to gip when you open the lid. The lid is also colour-printed with the box art, and each box is engraved with a serial number. Mine is kit #2! Navarino also asked if I’d like my name engraved, and they did this for me too. Now, this is a HEAVY box, so some care is needed in opening this up to take a look inside. Sliding back that lid uncovers some layers of bubble packing that stop anything rolling around whilst in transit. Hang on a minute...what is this I see? Well, Babis, the owner of Navarino Models obviously spotted my Facebook avatar and knew I was a Bowie fan, so he popped a 7” single in there of Blue Jean! That has surely got to be the most original item I’ve ever received with a kit! The covering letter explains a little too. Ok, back onto the subject. Underneath the protective layers, we have six sheets of plans, some sheets which form the plan identification, and also a set of English language instructions. Remove this and we see two clear plastic trays of fittings, a bag of rigging material, two bags of plywood components, three sheets of 6mm ply parts, two bundles of strip timber, and two large ply deck sections. Before I jump into the contents, here’s a great little video made by Navarino, highlighting their new kit, with some finished images of this famous brig. Suggested Tools Navarino supply the following text to recommend tools for the project, but you may of course have your own alternatives: Pliers, hammer (a small one), saws, chisels, knives, files, drills, electric plank bender or a mini travel iron, rasps (flat & half round), needle threaders, tweezers, rulers, squares, compass, awl, clamps, sanding blocks (small wood blocks, ice cream sticks), sandpaper (aluminium oxide is best), hobby plane, vice, scissors, pins, drills. For painting Again more suggestions from Navarino Models: Colour selection: Initially it is advisable to choose to use model paints on this model. They are produced exclusively for modelling use. The choice of the company is yours. You will also choose whether to be acrylics or enamels. Another alternative is oil painting, but these require more time to dry. Varnishes: These can be applied by brush or spray. Matt or satin or satin are preferable for use, but not gloss as this is more likely to be used on a sailing yacht! Brushes: Use good quality brushes with round, pointed and flat bristles, depending on the surface you are painting. Clean them thoroughly and after a painting session, wash them with a mild detergent to condition them. Main deck sections Two large, thin ply parts, pre-cut to size with CNC, are supplied for the main deck sections. Minimal clean-up is required around the mast positions, to remove a little furriness from the machining process. These deck sections give a pretty good idea about the size of this brig in 1:50, and just how fat she was in the beam. At 1143mm in length, this is definitely a large model when complete. False keel, bulkheads, cheeks etc. Three sheets of high quality 6mm birch ply are included which contain Aris’ main hull construction elements. As with all cutting on this kit, the parts are machined using CNC, and some very minor clean-up of some edges will need to be done with tickling the edges with a sheet of abrasive paper. All machining is excellent, with small tabs (not full sheet depth) that you will cut through to release the parts. Due to the length of the hull, the false keel is provided in two sections. Two stiffening parts are included to encapsulate the joint area and provide extra strength. There is no engraving of part numbers on the sheets, so you will need to refer to the parts maps that is included with the kit’s paperwork. All ply sheets are nice and flat with no visible warpage. Strip wood Two substantial bundles of strip wood are supplied, in 500mm lengths. One bundle contains the lime planking material for the first layer of planking. You are advised to cut these so as to maximise the material usage during planking. All of this is hidden, or course, but you still need a good solid base to work from. A length of brass wire is tucked in there too for later use. A second bundle of the same length contains both strip, and dowel for the masts, yards and bowsprit etc in ramin, and beech for strip and basswood for dowel. You will also see the material for the second planking, and also for deck planking etc. Some of this timber is dark on the end cut, presumably through the machining process. As before, all timber is excellent quality with no fluffy edges or defects to be seen. More ply parts A pack of smaller, CNC-cut birch ply parts is included. Here you will find cannon carriage and wheels, channels, etc. Parts are nicely machined, but some clean-up will be required to remove any fluffy edges from the CNC cutting process. There are also another two packs of thin ply parts. One of these contains the poop and forecastle decks, stern décor trim and parts for the tops. The other pack holds parts exclusively for the three launches, namely the internals, rudders and oars. These are very thin ply and the internals in my kit had broken in almost the same place on the rear third of the part. These are repairable though. These parts will also need some clean-up before they can be used. I think if the ply grain had run the other way, they would perhaps have not broken. Components tray #1 Two blown plastic trays of parts are included in this kit. The first one contains a whole range of detail parts in various materials. Here you will find copper chain, deck grating comb set, boxwood ladder sets, 3D-printed Aris figurehead, hull mounting pedestals (no base included), boxwood capstan, rudder pintles, cast ship’s wheel, three launch boats etc. The latter are realistically thin and made from cream coloured resin. These will need a gentle wash in some soapy water to remove any mould release agents that may be lingering on their surfaces (although mine look very clean). There is a casting block on the lower keel, and this will need to be gently sawn away and cleaned up. This is standard practice for resin. As always, wear a mask when sanding resin parts. The 3D-printed figurehead, created by scanning the surviving one from the real ship, has a series of connection points what will need to be trimmed off and cleaned up. Again, this is normal for such parts. Components tray #2 Another plastic tray chock-full of detail goodies for your model. In here we have numerous packets of rigging blocks and various sized deadeyes with chain plates, launch davits, steel pins for first planking (remember to remove these before sanding!), brass belaying pins (casting point needs removing), turned brass cannon x 16, anchor set with wooden stocks and metal hoops, parral beads, metal cleats, copper eyelets, ships bell etc. Rigging block quality is very good and the drilled holes are nice and clean. Rigging A single pack of rigging cord is included, consisting of two natural threads, one bleached, and one black. These look high quality with no fuzziness present on my example. Flags Two flags are included, printed on paper. Printing quality is very good. You will need to possibly dampen these when assembled and form them into a natural sag that you would expect to see. Paperwork Several sheets of A4 paper are included, listing all of the kit parts by name and quantity included. More paper is supplied, forming the kit’s written instruction manual. No photos are given here, but they are unnecessary anyway as all illustration regarding assembly details, are supplied on the plan set. The English is clear and easy to understand. Plans SIX sheets of plans are included, printed at 1:1 so you can take measurements straight from them. Sheet 1 shows two profiles of the hull in profile form, depicting skeletal structure and illustrations showing the double-plank nature of the hull. Measurements are also supplied for gun port spacings etc. A very clear, easy to understand drawing. Sheet 2 shows the model in plan elevation with a montage of small illustrations depicting construction and details. Easy part number reference is supplied for various fittings. Sheet 3 & 4 concern the construction of the masts and bowsprit Sheet 5 illustrates yard construction and some elements of rigging, whilst the last sheet is purely for rigging. Conclusion This is an ambitious project for Navarino Models and is the first fighting ship of this period that they now have on their catalogue. For a Greek, and a ship enthusiast, it was a subject that Navarino’s owner, Babis, simply couldn’t ignore, and he’s done a wonderful job of recreating it in 1:50 for us. The whole package is a delight to see, from the quite extravagant but unique packaging, through to the use of the more expensive birch play for parts. Strip wood is also high quality and the fittings are well above average too. The only small niggle for me is perhaps the use of ply on the gun carts and channels, instead of solid wood, and the timber boats parts need some clean up. It’s by no means a deal breaker at all though as this is a well thought out release of a subject that I’ve never seen in kit form before. This is a bonny brig and quite a size when built too. If either historically significant vessels or Mediterranean ships are your thing, then give this kit a look over! Definitely a very different subject to tackle. My sincere thanks to Navarino Models for the kit you see reviewed here for Model Ship World. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of this article.
  3. After a month of work on my new project it's at the stage where I suspect it might turn into something worth continuing so here it is... A Cruizer class brig in 1:36 scale which is (hopefully) destined to be a working RC square rigged sailer. I've kicked this project off before finishing the rigging on my current Granado build after seeing a few build logs and being filled with inspiration and a reckless confidence to simply have a go. It's a good vessel to practice on as it's relatively simple with flush decks, only two masts and little decoration. I can experiment with the rc servos, ballast keel and sail operation once the hull and masts are done and if it works then move on to the nice to have items like head rails, carronades and deck fittings. The cruizer was a possibility for my next scratch build originally planned at 1/64 but I'd helped my father build the 1:20 scale Valdivia schooner kit from Robbe a few years back and being so taken with sailing it that I wanted one of my own. I'd love a 1:24 scale RC Surprise or cruizer from Steel Chapman and Hutchinson Ltd http://www.modelsailingships.com/ships/grasshopper.html But it's out of my price range once freight etc is taken into account, hence an effort to scratch build, especially after seeing the very informative logs from Jerry Todd for his Macedonian, Constitution and others. 1:36 was chosen as it's large enough to look the part and have some sailing ability and be easily managed with a length of 84cm on the gun deck. If successful with the brig the ultimate goal is a frigate and at 1:36 scale a large vessel like an Artois class frigate of 146 feet on the gun deck would be just manageable for transport and launch at roughly 120cm. But that's pretty optimistic at this stage and I've got a lot to learn yet. The plans for this vessel are those included in EW Petrejus' fine book 'modelling the brig of war Irene' scaled up with bulkhead widths and deadwood for building purposes etc drawn in. Using relatively cheap materials was a must for this project as there's still an element of doubt over if it will work. If it doesn't I don't want to feel like it's been a huge investment that fails. As such the brig will be built from 9mm plywood for the framing with the keel and planking from matai - a New Zealand native timber which is moderately hard enough to hold detail at this scale while still easy to work and has a nice tone although the brig will be painted anyway. The matai is in the form of old tongue and groove floorboards from a demolition yard that are going for about $6/metre for short lengths that are pretty much unusable for anything else. I can mill these on my table saw and with a home built thickness sander. The hull will be built upside down on a building board for stability and will be cut loose once planked. A base line parallel to the keel a few cms above the max height of the sheer line was drawn on the plans to provide a point from which to measure from. All the bulkheads were drawn with this line as a top (or bottom once upside down on the board) square edge to ensure they would all sit at the correct height from the board and provide a level run for the keel to attach to. A test run of bulkheads on the board. To avoid installing deck beams later these were drawn onto the bulkheads using the camber indicated in Petrejus. The bulkheads were then cut down to ribbing size. In hindsight I should have left the bulwarks above deck ticker to account for the reduction from subsequent sanding but it's nothing major. Most of the framing on the build board here. The keel and stem is matai ripped on a bandsaw and run through my drill powere thickness sander (thanks to MSW member Snowmans for his fine instructions on making one) down to 9mm. The stem was then cut in one piece on the bandsaw and gammoning and bob stay holes/slots drilled.
  4. Hej, it's not that I wanna stop the build of my Sherbourne, it's just that there is so much detailstuff to do, and I can't concentrate on that very good atm. So I decided to start the build of the USS Syren and switch, depending on my mood, between these builds I could complete chapter 1 today. Knee of the head: My babys together And the mermaid Cheers, Dirk
  5. I am looking specifically at an attempted historically accurate Royal Navy brig, circa 1783, which means no main yard or square main course; just a cross jack and a fore-and-aft main staystail. All of the references I have found except one say or show that the main preventer/spring stay goes below the main stay. Marquardt states it can be above or below. If the main preventer stay is below the main stay, it means (1) that when I hang my main staysail it must be to one side of the preventer stay, limiting its utility without rehanging, unless I put it on its own stay, and (2) any hanging tackles used to move boats, etc, that hang from the main stay will rub into the preventer stay. Petreus' book about the Cruizer Class Brig Irene shows this conventional rigging but she is a bigger ship at a later time period with a square main course and no fore-and-aft main staysail. Why is the main preventer stay rigged below the main stay? Should I just rely on the short blip in Marquardt and put it below on my period rig? TYVM in advance.
  6. Joining a distinguished club on MSW. Jumping into my first plank on bulkhead after two solid hull builds.
  7. Hello, right now I'm halfway through a Revell Mayflower 1/83 build, and I was wondering what to do next. I had heard about RC Sailing before, but only competition grade stuff, models desingned to be fast and maneuverable, and a few weeks ago I learned about historical RC sailing, and then found amazing builds here in the forum by yancovitch, GeraldTodd and others. So the bug bit me. I decided to try it out by building a simple model(without worrying about detail or historical precision). As I had some time playing with RC Planes I already had a Radio Controller, some small servos and a battery charger, so I bought online new batteries, and most importantly the Sail Servo, the winch tipe. Upon considering what ship to build I was looking for a 2 mast Schooner or Brig. A few months ago I was studying 3d Modelling and went around the web downloading low resolution plans and hull lines for many ships so I could exercise. Because of that I had around 40 of those hull plans that show up on google images on a folder. This one got my atention: I tryed to find what ship she is online without much sucess, I would guess a British brig from the napoleonic period. Anyway, that didn't stop me, I've decided to model it in rufly 1/50 scale. I'll probably make it civillian by removing the cannons and portholes so I have less detailing to make she look ok! First step was drawing the actual parts as all I have are the general lines! I did it on Sketchup because this way I was able to draw the structure inside for battery, receiver and servos, and all the pieces and bulkheads needed for the hull. The next image shows how I plan to distribute the electronics. Of course, with the real hull I'll need to test whats the optimal positions of all parts for best ballancing. I'm still not shure but I'll probably build the ship with depron, a kind of light stirdy foam we use for planes, because its cheap, and easy to work with, as i'm living in a small apartment I cant actually cut wood here. My plan is to build the structure with reinforced depron, "plank" it with depron, folowed by a layer of wood strips and them some kind of resin or waterproof veneer. Masts and rigging I plan on standard material, I only wonder about whats the best kind of tissue for the sails that I can find here in Brazil! Thank you very much! Let's see if anyone can identify my mistery ship! hahaha
  8. Well, I didn't expected I would come to this point. But here is my build log of the Syren. I feel a presentation of the kit is not necessary. Reklein and I are both members of PSSM, so this could be considered as a club build. Our President has already started the build but has had the bit at a stand still for a long time. I had started the kit, but the keel for BF was to warped and twisted to be used, even after two weeks of straightening. I even tried with the inserted bulkheads and filler blocks to get it straight"er" but to no avail. I contacted Mr. Mosko at ModelExpo via email and got a quick respons the following morning. I have shaped the bulkheads, put the templates together and will do other work while waiting for the new BF to arrive. The build jig is made and ready to go to. The current BF and bulkheads are just put together without glue and I am using them to bend the planking. Thought they could come to good use for that purpose. Lastly, I would like to extend a big thank you to all other members who has build Syren, as your logs will provide a lot of extra information needed for the build and how to avoid pit holes along the way. Now picture time
  9. I have made a decision to purchase and build the US Brig Syren. My goal is to become a better Wood Model Ship Builder. Learn the craft, and improve my work. I started building wood ship models 4 years ago. I started by building from scratch. With any wood and materials I could scrounge up. I completed 2 Commercial Fishing Boats. However, It was a very difficult experience for me. I became disabled, and have problems with spatial interpretations, reading, writing, and hand coordination. Four of my previous attempts to build a model ended up in the wood stove. The finished Fishing Boats are rough, and somewhat resemble folk art. My next project was a scratch built replica of the Armed 14 Gun 1801 Russian Merchant Neva. It took me 6 months working all most full time to build the Neva (over 600 hours). The Neva is a little rough, and I made many mistakes. Many of the parts I built for the Neva were built out of scale. The rigging was my own invention! To my astonishment the Sitka Historical Society took the Neva and will display it in the new Russian America Museum which opens this summer. I have many pictures of building the Neva. But, I did not set up a Build Log. I was afraid that the quality of my work was poor, and worse yet, I was afraid I would abandon my attempt. After working on the Neva, I felt ready to try a official kit. For the past six months I have been working on the Caldercraft HMS Snake. I must have gotten a older kit that had been bumped around a lot. Some of the wood was in very poor condition. Cracked and chipped. Some of the metal parts had broken pieces. So I tweaked the model a little. I have been struggling with the HMS Snake. Being disabled, I am finding it hard to read the provided directions. My spatial interpretation problems makes viewing plans very difficult. I still can't rig a canon. That is why I have chosen to build the US Brig Syren. I am impressed with the directions I downloaded, and the Build Logs I have read. I am hoping to become a better builder. The Syren is scheduled to arrive in 10-14 days. Which really means 14-21 days to Sitka Alaska. I'll start this log officially, when I start unpacking. At which time, the HMS Snake will be taken out of Dry Dock and put in storage. Photo's of my past mistakes attached.
  10. Hello friends of the little wooden ships, after reading the intersting reprint of Lobbocks “The,Arctic Whaler“ I started some research on Whaling Ships. But I wasn't able to find a more detailled plan as the one of the “Kate Cory of Westport“. Built as a Whaling Schooner some years later she was, rerigged as a brig. And I figured out hat the nine sheets of plans of her were availible here: https://store.whalingmuseum.org/products/brig-kate-cory at the New Bedford Whaling Museum. The plan has got nine sheets and I additivly ordered the hulldetails and the beetle whaleboat as there were no boat details at all to find on the plan. There are interesting details as cuts of the hull - giving interesting information - also for the panking,too Alltogether with p&p I have had to pay 110,-US$. Hoping she is worth this pile of money. Here the nice view of an also possible hull model: It is known to me that there is a kit but I think it is too expensive for me. So I'm awaiting my plans in the next days and making a little start in here for the questions I have collected. In a first start I want to build her as a schooner to get some feeling for the wood - later I may be able to build the installed brig rigging. I think about building the pats as in the seperatly bought plan shown (upper right corner) - but the plan seems ot to show a double ender boat hanging in the davits or are they painted in this strange way - as the British black sailed Wheery? So these are the first impressions of her. I guessed a lot - as the inwasted/invested money in whaling boats.. so did I guess right? Hope you like it. Yours, Moony
  11. Hello friends of the little wooden ships, after reading the intersting reprint of Lobbocks “The,Arctic Whaler“ I started some research on Whaling Ships. But I wasn't able to find a more detailled plan as the one of the “Kate Cory of Westport“. Built as a Whaling Schooner some years later she was, rerigged as a brig. And I figured out hat the nine sheets of plans of her were availible here: https://store.whalingmuseum.org/products/brig-kate-cory at the New Bedford Whaling Museum. The plan has got nine sheets and I additivly ordered the hulldetails and the beetle whaleboat as there were no boat details at all to find on the plan foreview. There are interesting details as cuts of the hull - giving interesting information - also for the panking,too Alltogether with p&p I have had to pay 110,-US$. Hoping she is worth this pile of money. Here the nice view of an also possible hull model: It is known to me that there is a kit but I think it is too expensive for me to pay three times more than more the plans. So I'm awaiting my plans in the next days and making a little start in here for the questions I have collected. In a first start I want to build her as a schooner to get some feeling for the wood - later I may be able to build the installed brig rigging. I think about building the boarts as in the seperatly bought plan shown (upper right corner) - but the plan seems not to show a double ender boat hanging in the davits or are they painted in this strange way - as the British black sailed Norfolk Wheery? So these are the first impressions of her. I guessed a lot - as the inwasted/invested money in whaling boats.. so did I guess right? Hope you like it. Yours, Moony
  12. I'm just starting the Model Shipways brig Syren. I spent 3 weeks reading thru the Chuck Passaro practicum and feel ready to go. I pre-fitted bulkheads onto the former and immediately spotted a problem. When I line up the laser guidelines on the BF with those on the bulkheads, the "tee" intersection for the deck is not always on point. Sometimes, the bulkhead is higher, lower or dead-even with the deck line on the bulkhead former. So ... what is the proper way to compensate for these "misalignments"? Any advice would be appreciated.
  13. So with the rebirth of the site I have a new motivation to post my build log instead of just stalking everyone else's. I moved on to wood ships after branching out from plastic ones and got hooked. Since then Ive build the Phantom and the MS Mayflower. The Mayflower as well as Chuck's amazing practicum helped me learn a lot of techniques. And that brings us to...the Niagara! Im mostly done the prerigging stuff and am looking forward to making all the masts. I decided to make the cannon/carronades run out but ropes stored. I also decided to spend half a millennium making all the tackle for the guns. Another coat of paint is needed to touch up the oops and things but I'll be saving that for last as smudges and things will undoubtedly happen. And enough words...on to the pictures! My amazing ship holding device.... And heres where I am now, making all the parts for the chainplates. And in other news im still terrible at soldering. Blacken-it is my new best friend I feel like im not uploading these images correctly...any tips of how to make them smaller until you click to expand them would be appreciated.
  14. Hello everybody! I finished 3D model rigging of the brig Mercury. Only rigging and sails
  15. Greetings Friends; It has been over a year since I have posted on this forum. For any who are interested in the travels of fellow captains I share briefly......Following my completion of my USS Constellation Model of which I was quite proud, I was looking forward to my next project. This was delayed by the birth of my first child; a daughter Clara. Apparently it is much easier to sneak away to the Shipyard when the Admiral is sleeping off her third Trimester than it is during the first 4 months of newborn-hood. So suffice to say, sharp objects and bits of wood flying about were not in the plan for me. Then, in mid-summer I suffered a serious accident. I don't care to get into the details but long story short I lost the use of my right eye. It was traumatic for me and there was quite a recovery before I was able to resume my regular routine. I found adjusting to the loss of biopic vision to be quite difficult and still find depth perception to pay tricks on me at close range. By the fall I had recovered enough that I began testing my hand at some of the many activities I enjoy so dearly which require the use of my sight. I began painting miniatures again and found it quite difficult, but not impossible to manage a brush on a 28mm figure once again. I practiced a lot and am almost, but perceptively not quite, back to where I was. Then a few weeks ago this kit fell into my lap. A friend of a friend found it in a garage sort of thing and to my surprise it was 100% in tact with even the receipt (2002?) in the box. My questions as to if I could still manage model ship building with only one eye is about to be answered. All without spending any money up front on the experiment. So without further ado......my build log for Mamoli's Blue Shadow US Brig.
  16. Hi All, I am now two years into the US Brig Eagle using the Gene Bodnar practicum. I consider Gene to be one of the greats in the hobby today and his practicum leaves no regrets. I like to build a couple of ships in tandem so I dont get bored. Having just finished a POB Kitbashed Rattlesnake, I decided to start the HMS Naiad using Ed Tosti's Monograph (the log is posted on this site) and will continue with the US Brig Eagle. I toy with just stopping in the admiralty sytle, but since I bought a Byrnes rope walk this year, I had better use it. Otherwise I will be keel hauled by order of my Admiral... The first half of my log is on Model Ship Builder. I will share some photos below of how she sits today and moving forward, will now post on both sites. If you are interested in this build, I fully recommend it and am happy to consult for anyone who wants that. The practicum, which is FREE, takes you through lofting and plan design, all the way to the finished product. On my build, everything is from scratch, with the exception of the long guns. Some day, I will get into casting, but for now I am focusing on the hull structure. The build is based on research done by Kevin Crisma from Texa A&M University and his Doctoral disseratation is available free frmo the website. http://nautarch.tamu.edu/anth/abstracts/crisma.htm I'm going back a couple of years here... This is an example of the lofted frame. Now, I do all my frame lofting with DeltaCAD. One of the things that makes this a great first scratch build is the simple curvature of the frames. There is little tumble home and the frames are fairly thick for this lake warship. Here she sits with ceiling planks installed. I am leaving the ship in a skeletal form with only a suggestion of planking and other structural supports. The entire hull is of boxwood from D'Lumberyard. Capsized with the hull almost fully faired. Hours and hours of sanding and polishing... Fast forward to today! Next up is the bowsprit and rigging. I will go into more detail. If you want to see the full painful log in excrutiating detail, it is on MSB. More to come. Thanks, Gary
  17. Wahooh! ... it arrived! After a long wait, my US Brig Syren finally managed to paddle across the pond and land in the UK. An interesting mix of nerves and excitement, but all good! I've decided to go for this particular kit as it's a model from a period that I particularly like, so it should keep me motivated throughout the long haul that I'll have ahead of me. Furthermore, as a total beginner I was looking for something that would be doable, yet be challenging whilst providing enough support through an excellent manual, the designer's presence on the forum here and a plethora of excellent build logs of other members. I also was keen on a plank-on-bulkhead model as it felt that it would stretch me a bit, whilst not being as challenging as a plank-on-frame model. The Syren it thus was. Yes, yes, I know... yet another Syren blog. 🙂 I've spend today unpacking everything (including some new hand tools that I had to order as my DIY equipment is too big and clumsy), categorising and counting everything. To my surprise, everything seems to be there although I had 11 pieces of a particular timber bit, rather than the required 17. I'll pick that up with Model Expo, no doubt they'll whiz over the missing 6 pieces. I don't think it'll hold me back any time soon though. I'm expecting progress to be slow. I'm a stickler for detail and a bit of a perfectionist, so things like this tend to take longer with me anyways. I also want to use it a bit as a test-bed for developing my modelling skills, so I want to try certain things on the ship that are perhaps a bit more advanced such as a bit of spiling of the hull planking, proper use of stealers and drop-planks, detailed tree-nailing and perhaps some other things, just to get my teeth stuck into it. Besides that, after ordering the kit we found out that my girlfriend is pregnant, that I got a new job which I'll be starting soon and that we're moving home. Yes, timing is impeccable as always with me! 🙂 It's like Xmas came early... or more likely, very late in this instance! Sorting, categorising and counting everything against the inventory log. A bit nervous about how small some of the pieces are, especially with my clumsy hands. Luckily I got some really good tweezers that should help me out! Kind regards, Martijn.
  18. Welcome to another Syren build log! I couldn't resist the Ebay bargain that I found of this kit on the Model Expo site, so I decided to make it my next project. Here is a sneak preview of how she was packed for shipping to my home city. I have to say that the overall care was impressive in the way the kit was packaged! Considering that it had to come all the way from the US to my home town in Australia, it arrived nicely. I have had a glimpse over the contents, and instruction manual/plans. I am very impressed with the level of detail in the instruction manual! The parts are nice and neatly packed, and it even included an apology letter stating that Model Expo was short on the Cannon Balls part. All I had to do was e-mail them and they will be sent free of charge! Great service! You can see why people on this forum have great things to say about Model Expo. For now I will leave it as a teaser preview of whats to come. I would like to finish my Mare Nostrum before beginning the Syren...although it is calling out to be built. I must hold off on the temptation, and complete my Mare! Regards Adam
  19. I will be attempting to re-construct this log over the next few weeks. A picture of me (in the middle) while working as a volunteer sailor on the Niagara, with the decedents of Oliver Hazard Perry.
  20. Herewith begins my first extended journey into the esoteric art of developing a set of rigging plans pretty much from scratch. On the MSB forum there is an ongoing project to develop plans and build a prototype of the British brig General Hunter (referred to hereafter as the GH). I have, perhaps naively, agreed to tackle the development of a rigging plan for the model. I enjoy a challenge, and particularly enjoy research and analysis, as well as the whole concept of understanding the masting and rigging of a ship is, to me, highly fascinating, so here I go. What I intend to do, since this is research and development rather than actually building the vessel, is to document my research process and decisions here in the same manner as a build log, but likely with fewer pictures. At least, few that represent the output (or input) of spars on a model. I would like this to be a contributory endeavor - please feel free to interject suggestions, ideas, recommendations, or other critical analysis of the process and results. My goal is a set of plans that is representative of the type of rig that the GH may have carried, realizing that the 100% benchmark is not attainable. I will be drawing heavily on research already conducted by Daves, Winston and several others at MSB, as well as information in a set of unpublished manuscripts by Joshua Humphreys and his son from the Pennsylvania Historical Society (transcription from handwritten ye' Olde English into searchable documents is currently well underway by a team at MSB), and archival information both by the archeological team that is excavating and studying the wreck as well as by others such as Stevens of Parks Canada. At some point, may even be touching on Australia and other regions as well - hint hint!). Upcoming topics include (but are by no means limited to) the following: HISTORICAL BACKGROUND Current Knowledge related to the GH Pictorial Analogs and Similar Vessels Dimensions of Masts Dimensions of Yards Furnishing the yards So, pull up a seat, grab some popcorn (I think Sjors was bringing it) and hang on for what could be a fun journey into the Great Lakes and 1812! Best wishes - Wayne
  21. This is my second build. The first was a Chesapeake Bay Skipjack - but she went down in the great (website) crash of Feb 2013! I chose the Fair American as my next build for a number of reasons: - I wanted to try something with hull planking - to learn the ropes; - I didn't want too many masts, because I found rigging was an area where I still had a lot to learn; - The 1:48 scale was large enough to not make building bespoke parts or components too complicated; - I was concerned about the many reports stating that European kits have very vague / limited instructions; - The overall dimensions of the kit were small enough to fit on my work-space. This being said...... when I received the kit I unpacked the contents and did the pre-requisite component identification and validation. All parts present - but i was rather disappointed at some of the cast metal parts. There are two types of cast parts: some in little plastic bags labelled Fair A and others, labelled in Chinese with handwritten text "Fair A" on the package label. The Chinese manufactured components are clearly of a lesser quality that the others (presumable US made). Second issue I found was that the size of the centre-keel supplied was different to that depicted in the plans (See below images). My initial diagnosis was that because the inaccuracy was visible on all plans, but only applied on the X-scale of the plans - was that the plans had been incorrectly copied and that they were accurate in the Y dimension, but wrong on the X dimension. I mailed Model Shipways and they replied that there was no problem with the plans, but that the centre-keel laser cut was inaccurate and that they would be sending me a replacement centre-keel section. After their very prompt feedback, I felt better and engulfed myself into the books I had bought explaining the techniques of planking. Build will start as soon as I have the new part.

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