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Have you ever browsed through your favorite build to see what the full build looks like at the present time? Have you ever wondered what else is being built on MSW 2.0, it may be a kit, scratch, R/C, card or plastic, or any other material, including digital reconstruction. I am inviting all members to post one latest photo of their build (side elevation)and a link to that build, so everyone can see what it looks like, and give others an idea of what else is going on. I am not trying to create a multitude of build logs under one topic, just photo’s so we can all see what is going on. Please delete any other photo's you may have posted in this thread, This will possibly help others in deciding on what to build next Anyone interested? -
Sorry for my confusion -
I usually scratch-build RC ship models of the 19thc. Recently, my interests changed to earlier time periods where I have little source material. So, I'm posting here for your help. I've read/viewed some great build logs here of earlier ship types. I hope my efforts may add to that interest. I'll begin to post my research that I need to do to determine what the model will look like. As far as I know, no plans exist of a of Irish Galley c.1580. Historical background: It’s hard to research Irish Maritime history for several reasons. At first glance, you’d think it wouldn’t be. It is an island. Of course, they’d be interested in the water and boats. But, that has not been the case. They are a culture that has been suppressed for over half a millennium. Since English King Henry VIII in the 1500s, Ireland has been under siege and then conquered by a policy called Surrender and Regrant. Later, there was the Plantation Policy by Queens Mary and Elizabeth I. Their language, customs, laws, and certainly history have altered to demoralize them through the filter of a conquered nation. Any state promotion of an anti-English history (which this model represents) was suppressed. And this in turn, lead to a perpetual rebellion against a corrupt authority. One of those rebelling clans was the O’Malley clan in western Ireland in the County of Mayo. In the 1500s and as it had been for many centuries, Western Ireland was the far west of western Europe. So far west, that it was not even conquered by the Romans or Vikings. This gave the Island a longer period of insolation to form their own customs than any other peoples of Europe. Ireland never had the unifying force of the Roman government and army. Various clans ruled and warred amongst themselves for limited control of limited parts of the Ireland. The O’Malley clan was one of those Western clans. They ruled over the baronies of Murrisk and Burishoole. They were somewhat unique in that their power came from a combination of warriors to control land and seafarers to trade and war on the sea. This gave them the ability to trade not only with other clans but also other lands. It’s recorded that they travelled to the ports of England, France, Spain and Portugal. Theirs was no small enterprise. English State Papers record O’Malley maritime activities from the mid-1200s to the early 1600s. Some of their vessels, oared galleys, were recorded to hold 300 warriors. That is a significant size vessel of the 16th century. The most famous of the O’Malley clan leaders, called chieftains, was a woman called Grace O’Malley. She lived from circa 1530 to 1603. It is her life I find the most interesting. Because she grew up when the old Irish customs were still in force in Ireland. But by the time she ruled and for the rest of her life, England was conquering Ireland clan by clan. Usually, it a was a process of the superior English power making deals by granting money and titles to those who would submit to them with the least effort. Often clan was pitted against clan with the backing of English power on one side. In the midst of this upheaval, Grace refused to submit her clan to this transition and warred on land and sea against the English. She is called in English State Papers as a “nurse of all rebellions”. The clan motto in Latin, a common language of the educated in the period, proclaims their importance with Terra Marique Potens. This means Powerful By Land and Sea. The vessel: It is stated many times that this clan used galleys or oared rowing craft. But, what type and how large? Surely a clan that was known for ‘piracy’ by the English were not using the same vessels for trade and warring. ...more next time. -
Hi I acquired my Agamemnon kit from Jotika a few years ago. They are actually only 10 minutes away from where I live in Droitwich, really useful when looking for replacement bits and pieces. John is really good and has helped me out. Quite often taking the time to show me around the factory and the new products and improvements they are bringing in. And taking a look at the completed models in the showroom gives one a feeling of awe. Well initially me not not being totally prepared to be honest the build struggled or should I say I struggled. Now a few years later having a major declutter in my hobby shed I have reinvigorated my initial passion to build a scale model ship. I know it’s not the easiest kit to start with but with perseverance and help I am sure I will finally get there, even if takes a few more years. What has helped is the fantastic members and their build logs, without these the kit would still be in the box. I can only thank the members for their time and commitment it must of taken to compile the posts. I only hope that my meagre attempt might help another builder. Well the sunshine has spurred me on and I have now second planked one side and about a quarter of the way through the other. The hardest part has been the gun ports as you can see I still have a little making good on these. I would like to suggest to Caldercraft that they look at pre formed ply section like the Victory kit. It would make the build a lot easier for us newbies ! Sorry if I have blurbed on a bit but but I hope my log will help someone who has been going through the same issues as me, well here’s a few pics to start. My only hope for the next few weeks is to find the stand as this has disappeared from my shed or no doubt as the norm been thrown out by mistake. Thanks all Chris -
Hello ship model enthusiasts. My early bread and butter hull videos may be viewed at -cedliz1- on youtube. The actual scale of the model is unknown to me.This is fly by sight. A picture by radojavor and childhood memories were two of many impetus (impeti). 4 months in and 40 to go. -
G'Day all, I started this kit a nearly 7 years ago and it got mothballed until now, i've looked around and i can not find too many builds on this model so i thought i would start my own, it is also my first build so we can learn together and you from the mistakes i make. ive never made a log before so im sure it will get better as i go along. so i had already started putting the frames into the false keel, added the aft and bow blocks and planked the both of them and completed it right up to planking the 2nd gun deck 7 years ago cue 2018 and where we are starting again is step 17 planking for forecastle and quarter deck. this step was relatively easy laying the planks gluing them and nailing them into place, take your time getting the center plank straight it will affect the all the planks if this one is not straight. i didnt like the look of the nails being brass so i sanded over them and doing so made them more flush with the planks all round better imo remember to predrill your holes makes life alot easier i used a little hand drill to do this, i took alot of time sanding the decks and to get the shape in line with the frames of the sides to get the couture right and ALOT of time to get the planks level with each other on the decks, the variance of the planks sizes is massive and took alot to get them right, also the colour difference is quite varied but it will add to the models uniqueness i reckon and not make it look like just another mass production kit where they all look the same, i also noticed i had been using the wrong size planks to glue vertically on the bulkhead, they where meant to be 2mm thick, but due to the massive variances i thought the 1.7mm planks where the 2mm...i was wrong the 2mm ones are 2.3mm but at this stage looking forward i doubt it will make any difference what so ever. i will just be a tad more cautious moving forward, i hope your kit has a better QA then mine. silly me 7 years ago...i just hope 7 year old younger me has not made too many more mistakes but its apart of learning and nothing i shouldnt be able to fix with the advice on this site and some ingenuity. the model is in pretty good condition for being in storage for 7 years there is only one bit of damage and its the corner of the false keel frame, im sure i will be able to fix this later on, im not worried. well the build will continue tonight ill take some more photos and upload. any comments or critiques please comment below i want to learn Hooroo for now. Qweryninja85 -
By way of introduction, I'm a longtime sailor. All my life I've been fascinated by miniatures of - frankly - just about anything. I'm handy with tools and have a lot of patience, but I have never considered myself much of a woodworker. While I love boats and the water, I've found it more appealing of late to spend more time closer to home. Combine that with the long, gray winters of Cleveland and I'm enjoying immersion in this new hobby. I'm 51 now and haven't built a model of any kind since I was a kid. I've never built a wood one so this will really demand a new set of skills for me. I chose the Armed Virginia Sloop as my first kit for the following reasons: 1) It's suitably ambitious without being too daunting 2) Model Shipways kits were highly recommended because of the extra documentation they provide in the instruction manual 3) The boat itself is attractive. It's salty, with nice lines that in its day must have made it a great performer - fast, maneuverable and relatively easy to handle. 4) From what I can tell, this type of boat has rich history. It's very much like the boat Blackbeard seems to have first sailed - he named her Revenge - before stepping up to the larger boat in which he became most notorious, the two-masted (barkentine rig?) Queen Ann's Revenge. I suppose anyone who gets involved in this hobby has several shades of geek in him, and now you know mine. I started my build in mid-January 2014. I was hesitant to start a build log because in the earliest going I didn't feel I had anything to offer. But I've appreciated the great photos offered by BareHook's log of the same kit, and hope my own perspective will be helpful to someone else down the road. I'm a bit impatient with forums (having managed several large ones with really rancorous memberships) but I'm impressed with the good citizenry of this one. I'll make a few consecutive posts over the next few days to catch up on the build so far. My biggest concern is that I may not have the patience or desire to post a very thorough log here - but I'm going to make an honest effort. -
I have never done this (a build log) before, but from what I've seen, one of the best ways to get advice is to have a build log as a forum for discussion! I have in the past built model cars, but I recently, after a good 20 of years of nothing, decided to get back into it, and then I decided to try my hand at a ship! I built the 1/150 scale Revell USS United States. And I absolutely loved it! I have now decided (perhaps foolishly) to tackle the 1/96 USS Constitution by Revell. So I dove in earlier this week from the beginning, painting the hull. I have that mostly complete, still needing to paint the interior, and I've hit the detail areas on the bow and stern as well as on the cabin. Here are my pictures so far. I used a paint pen from Hobby Lobby for the gold and some of the white for the small detail, but a small brush and a toothpick for the other small parts. What I struggled with was the bulwarks color. I have decided to go with a darkish green, similar to what is on the current real life ship. I don't know why Revell wants it white, but I'm rebelling! I have been unable to mix a satisfactory green, so I'm buying some paint today. I am very nervous about this ship build because it's a hefty task for someone like me with very little to no experience. Also super excited. Hopefully the community here will be as awesome as it appears to be! My next task once the hull is complete is going to be an attempt at creating a weathered wood look on the deck. I have seen some vague references to doing this, but I am going with trial and error. If anybody has any input, please let me know! What I've done is grabbed varying colors of brown from light to dark, and I'm going to try to layer them. To be continued! -
There are several excellent build logs on the HMS Vanguard already, so why do another one was my first thought. I decided what the heck the world needs more build logs. For credibility purposes, I posted a few photos of my completed HMS Pegasus in the Gallery portion of MSW. Here’s why I am a bit reluctant: 1. Since completing the HMS Pegasus in 2010, the sixth of almost back to back models over 6 years, I had shoulder surgery (which in part I think had to do with long periods holding small pieces of wood) and I don’t want to go through that again. 2. Back in 2010 I did very detailed build logs on my Lauck Shipyards Fair American and the Amati Victory Models HMS Pegasus for MSW, and they are lost forever. To be clear, I consider that my fault for not keeping an offline copy of the text, though I do have the photos. Frankly I wish I had those logs for myself here 3 years later to remind me of what I did and not have to learn those lessons again. 3. My primary interest these days is photography and traveling so I just don’t want to spend as much time modeling as I did for the first 6 models I built. I tend to obsess. Plus having finished my niece's wedding photos I still have a photo landscape book to prepare from my recent trip to Iceland. I was particularly focused on historical accuracy for the Pegasus, I bought the Antscherl/Herbert Swan and read other not as good books, obtained copies of original drawings of the Pegasus from the Admiralty, (great for framing and workroom wall art by the way), kit bashed like crazy, etc. For the Fair American I was meticulous and obsessing over every detail, wanting to obtain, in my own mind at least, master class status as a builder. Now, not so much of any of that matters. My goal is just going to be make the best of the Chris Watton designed kit, replace a some of the wood with quality stuff from Jeff Hayes at Hobbymill, and just go for “pretty.” Fair warning, it won’t be historically accurate, for starters I’m not going to paint it with the Nelson yellow and black colors. I want to use some nice woods on the upper hull, perhaps cherry, yellow heart, and ebony, I haven’t really decided yet. I know when I do I’ll be able to get high quality lumber from Hobbymill. Also, more than likely I will stub the masts for the simple reason it’s so big already and the location I have in mind for the finished work won’t support three feet of height (oh my gosh, substituting pretty and the table location for history, what is he thinking). I will endeavor however to make it right, nothing that detracts from the quality of the finished product. It will look like a 74 and have the name Vanguard on the back. I like to think of it as the Vanguard from some parallel universe. For many of you, the above paragraph was the last you read as you marked this log as “do not bother.” Nonetheless, I hope I can offer a few insights here and there that might help you in your own mission-oriented kits. So check it out from time to time if you like. If not, that’s ok too. I’ll have fun writing it anyway. I’ll try not repeat what others cover, but who knows. While I could I suppose, I'm not going to go for every extra level of detail, though I enjoy looking at those on the Pegasus with my magnifying glass... I may not be as good a builder those other guys, but I’m no rookie either. I hope to be casual about all this as well; I’m going to try and not obsess about stuff as I have in prior models (as much anyway). Hopefully I’ll give you something useful to apply to your modeling; otherwise I’m either wasting my time or just seeking positive reinforcement (which isn’t t bad, so feel free to offer it…frequently). So with that as the intro, and if you’re still with me, the next post will cover the initial steps. -
Just got my new kit in the mail. This will be my first Dumas Boat Kit . I'm a little intimidated by this kit, I've watched lots of videos and viewed lots of build logs so it's time to get cracking! -
This log will document my progress as I build the Amati/Victory Models Lady Nelson. I've always wanted to build a wooden ship model, but I've never had the time. Now that I'm finally out of school, it's time to get started! I've done a good amount of research before starting this build, but I'm sure I'll have some questions for the experienced and knowledgeable members of this forum as I make my way through the build. Thank you in advance for your help! I'm going to do my best to take as many closeup photos of the process as I can. Perhaps they will be helpful to other modelers in the future! So, let's get started! After taking a look through the kit and getting acquainted with the instructions (which are basic), I sat down at my workspace with the sheet containing the bulkheads: First, I numbered all of the bulkheads, based on the plans. Then, I cut them out using my X-Acto. The cutting left some rough remnants of the tabs that held the pieces into their sheets: So, I sanded these smooth with my sanding stick: The final bulkhead/transom sits at an angle in the center keel: This piece had to be beveled to match the angle of the center keel: Here it is, sitting flush with the center keel: Next came the fairing of the fore and aft bulkheads. I did this before I glued anything in place, as it made the process easier. I fit the bulkheads in the center keel and bent a plank around them to get a feel for the required curvature, then filed by hand: Here is the second bulkhead fitted in the center keel, with its bevel on the forward edge: Here is the foremost bulkhead, with its extreme bevel: I test fit each bulkhead, marking each with the letters "F" and "A" to represent the fore side and aft sides, respectively: -
Greetings Friends; It has been over a year since I have posted on this forum. For any who are interested in the travels of fellow captains I share briefly......Following my completion of my USS Constellation Model of which I was quite proud, I was looking forward to my next project. This was delayed by the birth of my first child; a daughter Clara. Apparently it is much easier to sneak away to the Shipyard when the Admiral is sleeping off her third Trimester than it is during the first 4 months of newborn-hood. So suffice to say, sharp objects and bits of wood flying about were not in the plan for me. Then, in mid-summer I suffered a serious accident. I don't care to get into the details but long story short I lost the use of my right eye. It was traumatic for me and there was quite a recovery before I was able to resume my regular routine. I found adjusting to the loss of biopic vision to be quite difficult and still find depth perception to pay tricks on me at close range. By the fall I had recovered enough that I began testing my hand at some of the many activities I enjoy so dearly which require the use of my sight. I began painting miniatures again and found it quite difficult, but not impossible to manage a brush on a 28mm figure once again. I practiced a lot and am almost, but perceptively not quite, back to where I was. Then a few weeks ago this kit fell into my lap. A friend of a friend found it in a garage sort of thing and to my surprise it was 100% in tact with even the receipt (2002?) in the box. My questions as to if I could still manage model ship building with only one eye is about to be answered. All without spending any money up front on the experiment. So without further ado......my build log for Mamoli's Blue Shadow US Brig. -
I started this build four or five years ago. We moved across country and haven't lived in a place I could set up shop until recently so am now outfitting a new shop while I restart this project. Many pieces on the bulkheads broke in the move so I basically started by glueing all those back together. I also just added the aft filler blocks and am roughing them in. -
I have been so impressed with the modeling on MSW that I decided to join in on the experience of building a wooden ship. I really like steamboats and saw somewhere that the AL King of the Mississippi is one of the better kits but as I am finding out they all have their problems. My kit arrived a few days ago and I am already needing the advice found here on this site. I have enjoyed and learned a lot by reading the build logs. Before stating my current problem, let me state my ambitions for my KoM. I like the exquisite models with varnish and polished brass but I want to try make it look like it has been "down the river" a few times. I love the interior lights so I am going to try that. Being familiar with 1:87 in model railroading (HO scale) I am going to shift many of the modeling details about 10% and use what is available from local model train hobby shops. And lastly, with great apprehension, I am going to motorize the paddlewheel. Starting with photos the full contents of the kit, followed by a couple of shots of the hull, a close look at the bow. The two side bulkheads don't want to meet a the point of the bow. More sanding seems to distort the bulkheads. What am I doing wrong here? What do I need to do before I start the hull planking? I can knock it apart if I have to but I would rather not if there is another way to do this. Any help will be appreciated, Rick -
Hi, my name is Rod Chima. I started building the Model Shipways Syren back on Jan. 2, 2013, and started posting a Model Ship World build log about a month later. I was learning so much by reading other build logs, and I hoped that my postings might help someone else. It sure was disappointing to lose all that information with the recent hard drive crash, but I did find my posts cached on Google and will try to recreate them here. I am a rocket scientist recently retired from NASA Glenn Research Center in Cleveland, Ohio. If you are interested in computational fluid dynamics you can check out my work web site, http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/5810/rvc/ I have built stick and tissue model airplanes since I was 8 years old, and a few ship models when I was in high school and college. But the ship models were SO much work that I swore that I would never build another. Then I went to a hobby show at the Cleveland International Exposition Center and saw Chuck's magnificent Syren kit. The guys from Model Expo made me an offer that I couldn't refuse, and here I am. I am about 90 hours (over 1 month) into the kit, and have the hull and deck planked. More on that soon, but first some previous builds. I wish I could take credit for this model, but it was built by my Grandfather in 1933. I still have his original plans and construction article from Popular Science. I did some major restoration work on the model when I inherited it about 10 years ago. I received the Flying Fish kit by Model Shipways as a high school graduation gift in 1969, and I was working on it when Neil Armstrong walked on the moon. It got pretty banged up over the years, so last summer I made some repairs and replaced most of the running rigging. I also built the display case shown in the photo. It is my own design and is built from walnut and plexiglass. My girlfriend went to New England in 1970 and brought me this kit of the brig Hurricane Bird by Hobbies at Home. It must have been the right gift because we've been married for 38 years. The plans for this Roman bireme ship by Mantua Models clearly shows an open stonework castle on the deck. I could never figure out why you would want one there, but I dutifully followed the plans. This was the only planked hull that I had made before I planked the Syren. -
After much research I have ordered the HMS Victory Caldercraft kit from CMB. I plan to make a start in earnest after the Xmas break and will post regular updates. This will be my second boat build as I've very nearly completed the AL Scottish Maid which was used as model boat build learning exercise which I really enjoyed building.
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Hello! I have built a variety of things over the years - starting off with aircraft, tanks etc. I have however been bitten by the ship bug! I have a part completed model of the Titanic (Minicraft 1/350 scale) to which I have added LED and fiber optic lighting, a lot of scratch building of smaller vents etc and photoetch - it's a work in progress at present. Following the receipt of a shiny new Revell Constitution I have been bitten by the bug. I have started owrk as follows (and I'll get pictures posted up soon): Gluing and cleaning up all the cannons - this did take a long while! Cleaning up gun carriages (correct terminology? - if not please enlighten me). Some of the wheels on these were rather poor and almost all had mold lines, or mold mismatch to a greater or lesses extent. I decided to sam the outside of the wheels flat and replace the "axle" in the center of the wheel with plastic rod. Gun deck - joined the three parts together using plastic on the underside, unsuring upper surface at joins is level across the joins. At this stage I have some questions which I would love some thoughts on: Decks - I have sanded the surface of the decks smooth and and contemplating what is the best way to replicate the deck. The alternatives I have in mind are as follows: 1. Scribing lines for the planks. 2. Wood veneer (holly perhaps?) cut into planks 3. Thin plastic sheet appropriately pained in slightly different shades cut into planks My inclination is towards the third option and I will maybe experiment with this and see what it looks like but I would really like the thoughs/suggestions of others on here. I am also curious on where I could put my hands on a plan of planking on the deck, any areas where planking was wider etc, Also what the width of planks on the decks was. Planning on retaining the plastic masts only where they can be reinforced internally with metal to avoid future bending. Smaller masts etc I plan on replacing with either brass tubing (sizes can be had which can be slid inside each other to represent taper - I Used this approach to replicate the masts on the Titanic), or alternatively with wood. If wood - any suggestions on the best product to use, and where it could be purchased? One of my general questions is where can I get a better understandign of sail ship terminology, especially as it relates to masts and rigging? I have reviewed a lot of the builds I can see on here and I will be shamelessly applying some of their good works - imitation is the sicerest fom of flattery after all. I especially like the approach take by force9 to his build. I'll try to get some pictures of work do far pposted shortly. Thanks for looking and for any comments of the questions I have above. Stuart -
As a kid I tried my best to finish a partially built Billings kit from H.M.S. Bounty that was given to me by an acquaintance who gave up in frustration. Being too young/inexperienced/impatient/much interested in 1:24 plastic car models, I never finished it either and got rid of the kit after many years. Somehow, this hobby got under my skin so I chose to pick it up again. Since I was overwhelmed by the technical skills that are required when working on the Bounty, I decided to make an easy start so I got myself the Albatros from Constructo. I am well aware this is not a very detailed model and after opening the box I also found out that the materials are acceptable at best. All the better for me though, because I want to gain experience with planking and rigging. I will post pictures and my thoughts as I go along, but being very busy with my work please don’t expect me to do so on a very regular basis. Feel free to comment on my work and do share your thoughts and expertise, as I haven’t done any wood modelling for more than twenty years. Natan
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