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Build #3 First, a little background The Dragon Source: International Dragon Association The Dragon was designed by Johan Anker in 1929. The original design had two berths and was ideally suited for cruising in his home waters of Norway. The boat quickly attracted owners and within ten years it had spread all over Europe. In 1937 the Gold Cup was presented to the class by the Clyde Yacht Clubs Association. This quickly became one of the principal championships in the class and a prestigious trophy in the world of competitive yachting. LOA 8.9m Beam 1.95m Draugh 1.2m Displacement 1700kg (with mast) Mainsail 16m² Genoa 11.7m² Spinnaker 23.6m² The Olympic Years In 1948 the Dragon became an Olympic Class, a status it retained until the Munich/Kiel Olympics in 1972. It remains the only Olympic yacht ever to have a genuinely popular following outside the Games. Since the Olympics the Dragons have gone from strength to strength. The major reason for this has been the ongoing controlled development of the boat. In 1973 thanks to the hard work of Borge Borresen a G.R.P. specification was adopted, metal spars having been introduced in 1970. This proved to be a major milestone in the class's development. Designed from the first to compete on equal terms with the existing wooden boats, the GRP dragons are incredibly stiff - one reason why boats remain competitive at top level for years. More information: Scuttlebutt Sailing News – “Dragon Class – Stronger than Ever” SailboatData.com – “Dragon” SailingWeek.com – “ANTIGUA DRAGON YACHT CLUB CHALLENGE: MAY 8-9, 2017” -
I am very glad to have found this website with, luckily for me, many build logs on the Wasa from Corel. I will use many of the tips and pictures posted in these logs for my guidance and as a example of what gifted modelbuilders can achieve. I have bought a 'used' model of the Wasa about a year ago for a low price. It was in a very bad shape and the modelbuilder (not the person from which I have bought the model) did some things really well, but other parts were absolutely desastrous. Also it had suffered from neglect and the masts were broken off. When I saw the model as it was at the time it became clear to me that I first had to do a lot of demolishing and then try to rebuild parts of it. Most notably was the bow section as it appeared that the previous builder had had problems with bending the wooden strips for planking that part of the hull. First some pictures of the model as it was 'before restoration':
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Hi, I begin to try to form my build log and to upload first photos of my Frigate Berlin. I have not any experience to do these and I expect to succeed. The pixel quality is low but it will be better. In fact, I have begun this kit app. ten years ago, after 6-7 months of working on, I have left it at somewhere in my house. But whenever I saw it, I was feeling a fever to start again... Year 2010, then I overcame... The photos I have taken are belonging to the second period of my work. These photo are test for uploading... See you soon... -
Ahoy Mates First and foremost "Welcome to my Log" From the manufacturer Corel's H.M.S. Victory is designed with a double planked hull in limewood and walnut, with tanganyka strips for planking the deck. All wooden parts are laser-cut to facilitate assembly. Lanterns, railings and other fittings are brass, gilded cast metal and walnut. One hundred cast metal cannon and carronades are burnished for an authentic appearance. Brass gunport frames open and close with hinged lids. Display stand, five diameters or rigging, flags and hammock netting are provided. Fourteen sheets of plans plus an instruction book guarantee a faithful replica. I bought this kit on a whim, my shipbuilding had stalled, it was on one of ME's Super sales (reduced twice), and I was weak, in need of a fix. I had been eyeballing the kit for the last nine months, following similar builds here on MSW, pondering whether or not I would ever be up to this task (this last part is still TBA) and of course watching the price.The owners of Model Expo's recent post regarding their desire to sell may have had some influence on my decision to pull the trigger on this purchase. Regardless I have opened the can and we are now officially at "doors" As this will be a side project for at least the next year (maybe two) please understand future posts maybe few and far between. I have decided to tackle one of my demons on this kit and that is to build it completely using OOB rules (out of box). No upgrades, no side projects, no, I think this would be better if's, but just as Corel designed it along with a practicum of sorts here on MSW. Official OOB modeling rules do allow for painting and I might go there. With that said I will start this build off with a review The box is in a word "packed" and weighs about 11 pounds. Parts were well packaged and in typical Corel fashion; all bulkheads and many parts are precut and bagged. The included lumber was all first rate, cleanly cut, and I would believe "hand picked". I did not find one unusable piece in the entire kit. The Strip lumber was packaged separately in its own box; some bundled by size and type, others a jumbled assortment which will require some effort to sort and identify. Cast pieces come in their own vacuum formed organizer and most are either the gilded brass or the bronzed finish common in most of Corel's offerings. Detail is nice, a step up from the Britannia I have seen included in many other kits . Fourteen sheets ( 2 full sized, 12 half sized ) show both 2D and 3D images of construction steps and various details are included. Accompanying all this are what might be the worst instructions in the industry. Yes that little book is all you get. On a scale of 10, 0 being no instructions I will generously rate this at a 3. In Corel's defense it is listed as an advanced kit and the little book does include what could be considered a basic outline. Conclusion: Corel's version of the HMS Victory looks to be a great kit. Wood and parts are for the most part "top notch". I found one small knot in a 1mm by 1mm strip of walnut and no laser burn what so ever. I do however have some reservations regarding the pressed wood used for the stern and some trim pieces but do not believe them to be a major concern. Overall, I am very happy with my purchase at this point and would have little hesitation recommending this kit . Value wise it is untouchable. Next on my list is to complete the inventory process, and post some close ups. If there is anything you would like to see, now would be a good time to ask.
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La Couronne by Kurt Suleski - Corel - Scale 1:100 - 1636 - First wooden ship build Hello everyone! Like my father before me, I sailed merchant ships as an Engineering Officer, and have always loved square riggers. After eight years living aboards ship, seawater still flows in my veins twenty-five years later. I built several plastic ones as a boy, and now am returning to the hobby decades later, this time with experience in medieval weapon and armour smithing, carpentry, machining and other trade skills. A decision had to be made as to which era of sailing ship to choose. The 17th century royal great ships peaked my interest because of their embellishment and style, set apart from the advanced, refined warships of the Lord Admiral Nelson's time. So, the first ship, what I consider my training vessel, is La Couronne c. 1636. It's an ambitious ship for a novice such as myself. EJ's La Couronne build on the Nautical Research Guild was an inspiration, and his build log serves me well as a guide, since plans alone are not sufficient for a first time project. I also purchased Deagostini's Sovereign of the Seas, all packages, and am saving that for building closer to retirement in 10-13 years. The challenge of the small scale of 1:100 of La Couronne is rather high, trying to include the level of detail I desire, plus the addition of either full or battle sails. Silkspan is the material that is planned to use for the sails. I hope I don't tear them to ribbons in the process! A ship isn't complete without sails, no matter that they block some of the view of the deck equipment. La Couronne so far is about 50% done, with the additions of: properly scaled 18 pound, 9 pound, and 6 pound bronze cannons, use of Falkonet small 2mm blocks instead of the monster blocks supplied with the kit, cannon carriages of walnut instead of dummy barrels, internal circuit board with flickering candle effect LED lights for upper gun deck stern and side galleries and turrets, and of course, stern lanterns. Below is a link to 264 photos (an growing) of the progress of the build, every step of the way, all numbered to allow one to see the progress in order. I would treasure your comments and suggestions on how to steer this build in the direction of perfection, or questions as how features of this model were chosen and performed. All of you who have posted your own builds have unwittingly educated me in this build every step of the way. Best wishes! Kurt Suleski DARIVS ARCHITECTVS (Latin for Darius the Engineer) La Couronne Build Photos -
From the album: Victory Cross-section by Delf - Corel 1:96
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From the album: Victory Cross-section by Delf - Corel 1:96
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From the album: Victory Cross-section by Delf - Corel 1:96
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I had a build log of the HMS Peregrine in the original site, but when 2.0 web site launched, it was lost for some reason, I will re-post some of the buiidling progression pictures from the previous log and restart the build log again as some member expressed interest to see the build log again, Another compelling reason is there isn't any active building log /coverage on this particular ship/kit. looks like pictures were lost again.. reposting (4/11/2014) -
Hi, I'm Duarte from Lisbon, Portugal, and this will by my very first build! Just bought the glues (CA and titebond) and I'm now working out a something to hold the model while it's being worked on.. This will be a slow, long project, But I bet I'll need a lot of help as I've never done anything like this before Thanks in advance! -
I have always wanted to build a cross section, and since my next build will be HMS victory, so I have chosen corel's Victory and corel's victory cross section in 1:98 scale. I 've been told, that corel's kit is quite old and in some parts outdated. some pictures from cargohold, I have added pump house, shot holder and hull ribs -
Hi all. After having finally finished the San Francisco (first version) I tackle my next project: H.M.S. Bellona. I believe I have made every mistake in the book with my previous builds (a generic clipper, a botter, the Gretel, SF1) and I now feel emboldened enough to start something big. Why the Bellona? Well, I wanted to build a ship that comes with a real history, I like the size -not too big-, I want to use paint and I believe there's quite some stuff that can be added and/or changed. E.g. the kit comes without boats and without spare yards or masts. I also want to try some sculpting but I'll cross that bridge when I get there. About the kit. Everything comes neatly packed, instructions seem clear, there are accompanied by 14 70x50cm detailed drawings. Apart from these I will probably be using Lavery's book on Bellona a lot. This kit looks like a different version of Bellona that Harlequin is building because it doesn't have the metal gun ports, I'm curious what more has been changed. Nope, it's the same version. Harlequin added the metal gun ports. All the pieces come detached, that makes life a little easier. Nothing seems to be warped. Even the gun carriages are precut but I haven't looked at them in detail. Wood quality seems very good, there's some rigging material in brownish colors, no black included. Blocks are of the same quality that I know from other builds, they look ok, correction: the smallest blocks are crap, I'll have to order replacements. Not sure what I am going to do with the bling ... the photo edged sheet looks nice though. I plan to paint the upper part of the hull, I already bought the required admiralty colors. I won't copper the lower part because I am not going to cover up what will probably be achieved with blood, toil, tears and sweat over the many months to come. Well, like the Dutch say: my fingers are itching, this is going to be an exciting journey ;o) -
Hi everyone Since I have restarted my build of Le Mirage I thought it was time to resurect my build log from the ashes of the Great crash of 13! This will be more of a summary rather than a detailed log. Lots of pictures, some words. You never know some of it might be interesting! I started this build 3 years ago. Yes progress is slow but in my defence having two children in that time has somewhat limited build time... Comments/criticisms/etc gratefully received. Always good to get feedback of more experienced modellers. Anyhoo enough of the intro. Hope you're sitting confortably. Popcorn ready?... Good. A few box content pictures to get going The box Inside the box This is my second build after the Billing Bluenose and I have to say I was very impressed with the quality of the materials. However the bulkhead slots needed some adjusting... All the bulkheads in place Unfortunately I didn't notice until way too late that the first one was higher up than it should have been. First mistake (and not the last! ) The slots in the bulkheads are used to determine where the gun ports are. and again although that didn't stop me forgetting some gun ports (told you there were more mistakes!) Well that's the limit of 8 photos per post reached. Until the next post... Nick
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Greetings Fellow Shipbuilders, I've started up a build log for my Wappen von Hamburg model by Corel. This will be a real challenge and I'm looking forward to communicating with other experienced members on this build. I've started up a blog located at https://wappenvonhamburg.wordpress.com to formally log this build. Since there seems to be very little in the way of build logs for this particular ship, I'm going to try and keep up with this blog and include lots and lots of build photos. My plan is to use this forum for communicating with members on build related questions and to provide basic build updates as I progress. I plan to progress the blog side by side with this forum topic, to provide a more visual build log that will hopefully be helpful to others down the road. This will certainly be a long journey with many twists and turns, but I am really looking forward to it! --Josh -
Hello my friends and mates... It is time to come back to the shipyard. I will start my 4th build log now. Actually I wanted to make a longer break after finishing the Endeavour. But I am forced to stay home for some stress-related health problems and my doctor said I should better do some things to get relaxed and come back to the normal life... Well: What could be better than to build a model ship? I decided to build the Fregatte Berlin, 1674, from Corel in the 1:40-scale. As you may know I am german - so I wanted to have a look into the german history. In matter of naval history there is not so much to report about: Most of german naval history is part of the so called Hanse in Hamburg and other cities around North and Baltic Sea. Well known is the model of Wappen von Hamburg. As Germany was devided in numerous small counties, shires etc there was no united state with a big army or navy. Only Brandenburg, the region around Berlin up to the Baltic Sea, had a navy as it was situated in the north of Germany and had a entrance to the sea. And Brandenburg grew up to a important political entity, the later Prussia - and thus the very beginning of the German Empire. After the Thirty Years' War in 1648 Brandenburg became quite important. Passing the years the elector built up a Navy: There where some wellknown vessels incuded like Fleute Derfflinger, Große Yacht, Fregatte Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde and Fregatte Berlin. I think you all know about the history of the Fregatte Berlin. The model from Corel is based on the historical research by Mr Hoeckel, an expert for historic ships in the late 1930's. There is no real evidence how the ship was built in real. There are no documents or drawings and thus the plans Mr Hoeckel made where a summary of the ship building tradition in the midth of the 17th century in Holland. The Berlin was build according to the dutch tradition. The Corel kit is no longer state-of-the-art. The wooden parts are not precut with laser or water-jet but made with the saw. This means to all parts esp the frames and the keel that you have to be very cautious. All parts have to be worked with files and sanding paper. It's a lot of dust but it's more a building-feeling than the perfect prepared parts Occre or CalderCraft offer So I did and will still have to do before I can only think about glueing. I also prepared the metal fitting for the decoration of the stern. I will paint the parts according to a contemporary description I found in Mr Hoeckels book. So I sanded the parts and used some primer. I just did the first parts, the rest will follow. The plans are plans I love them I am looking forward but I am afraid as the model is only single planked with waltnut strips. Well, we will se. I estimate a building time of more than a year. Most of the parts have to be build and are not precut. Thats what I like Cheerio my friends - I am not sure how regulary I will work on the Berlin. Depends on my health conditions. I attached some pics - as usually Max -
Hi everyone, First of all, thanks for accepting me into this community. my name is Ed, I live in Montreal, I recently came back from my original country with a gift from my uncle, an HMS Victory he built out of a Corel model (1:98). The model is about 15 years old and my uncle didn't have the patience anymore to maintain it so it was collecting dust and I guess rust. I had to face many challenges to transport it, one of them involved cutting off the masts (yes I know this is like sacrilege but I didn't have to many options, sorry sorry sorry, 1000 times sorry) and now I'm facing the task to restore it. I know I will be facing many challenges trying to accomplish this task, one of them is the immense lack of knowledge in trying to tackle this incredibly difficult model. But hey, my uncle gave it to me so I could at least try, he's 90 and he told me, you take it or I'll throw it to the garbage, nobody else would try to do anything with it anyway. And, that's my history, my work is all computer related so this is super out of my comfort zone. I saw how this model was built, since he bought it and then how he built it stage by stage, so I know how it looked when it was "young". He gave the plans, some tools and spare parts: I will appreciate all the help you can provide, and from my part I will try to contribute from my humbleness as a newbie in this hobby. Here I show some pictures
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Prins Willem by DavidG - Corel - Scale 1:100
DavidG posted a topic in Build Logs for SHIP MODEL KITS
Hello All, I built this model 10 years ago. From my teens (now I'm 40) I have been a modeler, building plastic kits of all kinds, but always wanted to build a wooden ship. I gave a try to a solid hull, pretty simple Santa Maria (shaping the hull with a rasp from a square block..), then, when I could afford, a Billings Mayflower (which was not up to publishing standards). The Corel kit was a major step up, the first ship I taken seriously, and this became the period of my modeling, I enjoyed the most. I found the old DDM site, read a lot, purchased books and discovered something new with each part I made. This will never come back, and this model still reminds me to these exciting times. Things have changed a lot since. Having two kids now, in addition to heavily increased workload, I mostly exercise model building by watching other people's work. Recently I read a post about majority of MSW members are not participating. Feeling guilty in this regard here comes my log of the Prins Willem. I built the kit mostly out of the box, and despite it's shortcomings on the historical accuracy, had a lot of fun. I will try to continuously update the log as time allows. David -
Hi all, This is my build of the Vasa, started as kit, but quickly changed to scratch using wood from the kit. Current side view. I will post some pictures on how it got to this stage. thanks, Peter -
The Sovereign of the Seas has been completed, The Wappen von Hamburg's box has been moved to the shed (AKA the Boatyard) and all tools have been cleaned. I guess it is time to get started. For the past several weeks I have been admiring fifteen large format images of Corel's Wappen von Hamburg that I found on the internet. As inspiration I printed out 3 of the pictures, framed them, and hung them on the wall in the boatyard. (They can be seen in the picture above) The build is perfect and exhibits the kind of workmanship I have always hoped to achieve. Today, I went back to the site and actually read the text. Imagine my surprise when I read that it took the builder thirteen years and eight thousand hours to complete the build. Right from the start I know I won't spend that amount of time, but I will do the best job I can. The link to the site is; http://www.modelships.de/Wappen_von_Hamburg_I_1/Wappen_von_Hamburg_I_1eng.htm Time to take inventory and look over the instructions
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This is my third ship build and second build log, the first build log is currently still ongoing (Sultana). While it would probably be best to work on a single ship at a time, I normally have multiple hobby projects ongoing and was looking for a winter project with the wife. So, with the recent sale over at model expo, I figured why not, and let her pick a ship that she liked the look of. The Endeavour is one of the kits that I have always wanted to build, along with the Bluenose II, Constitution, Agamemnon, and Victory. Those others (other than the Bluenose II) are currently above my comfort level and will likely wait to be retirement projects. The Endeavour seemed to be a decent choice currently though as it has all the basics of the bigger ships and it a decent scale to work with. This will also be my first plank on bulkhead kit, so it will be a challenge. It is my wife’s first ever ship kit, but not her first ship. A number of years back we built several foam, plastic, and wood ships as terrain and gaming pieces for a Games Workshop Gamesday event and she had a lot of fun making those (including several large 30”+ long High Elf galleys with carved dragon heads and 24” Beastman barges). She has also helped make tons of terrain for wargaming over the years as she likes the building stage of those games, but really hates the games themselves. As stated in my other build log… “I knew Corel kits had bad instructions as my neighbour is building the Wappen Von Hamburg right now and I have had to help him figure out several steps due to the poor instructions. I did not realize exactly what we were getting into, or how bad the instructions really could be though.... 7 pages of instructions with no pictures and extremely broken english.... oh boy!!! I will start a build log on it soon, and be looking for LOTS of help!!!!" We started with the normal kit inventory, and while it looks like everything is there, it really is hard to tell. To make it clearer why, and what is good and bad from my impressions I am going to post another log entry with my thoughts on the pros and cons for the kit, starting with the bad and ending on a positive note with the pros (see next log entry). On the build itself, as per comments by ca.shipwright on his build log (ca.shipwright - HMB Endeavour) I have already come across two issues: I find that I do not like the bow and stern filler solution from Corel and will likely fill it with a softwood block and shape it from there. I cannot imagine that getting the planks to shape at both ends of the ship is going to be easy, and therefore will avoid having to struggle with it more than necessary and add in some fillers to help. There is nothing talking about any rabbet along the keel for the planking. I have looked several times, and tried to figure out if there should be and am not sure. I come to the same kind of conclusion that CA.shipwright did in that since the keel will be planked, that forms a form of rabbet and that might be enough. Any comments would help. Getting ready for the build I got a keel clamp ready following Hamilton's basic plans, and while it works well, I am going to have to find another solution for this ship. Since the Endeavour is so flat bottomed, there really is no way to get any bolts onto the clamp other than at the front and back of the clamp and I am not sure that will hold. So far we just have the bulkheads to a basic shape and the keep shaped and glued. The bulkheads are fitted in but not glued so that they can be further shaped before gluing them in. Before we go further, thoughts from anyone on how to proceed with regards to the rabbet (or if we need one at all given how Corel shows to plank the keel as well) and thoughts on filler wood at the bow. -
Greetings!!! After resting from ship modelling for 2 months, I am finally back! (Not a long time tough... ) I've been lucky enough to win this kit from an auction at a cheaper price right after my Race Horse, and it's in great condition. She arrived my door 2 weeks after that, and I've been studying the plans and instruction since then. Thanks to Ianmajor and Mike who had discussed about this ship earlier in other topic, so I can now plan for some modification on this ship. The wide waist of the Unicorn really makes this model a good ship to add more fittings on. Anyway, here's some quick peeks to the kit. Brief Introduction According to Corel Kit Historically, the frigate Unicorn has left as no tales of outstanding war feats or important enterprises, those which often mark the career of a man of-war so that be remembered even after his disappearance. All we know is that this ship has been designed by F.H. af Chapman for H.M.S Fleet in 1700s. On the other hand we have many accurate data regarding its construction. In fact, Chapman, member of the Swedish Royal Academy of Sciences in his admirable volume "Architectura Navalis Mercatoria" printed in Stockholm in 1768, gives an extremely detailed account of the calculation relating to the design of the ship and not only the constructional ones, but also those relating to the study hydrodynamic-resistances. All this together with a most beautiful drawing of the frigate, which have used to develop this model. The results of Chapman hydrodynamic investigation are clearly visible in the lines of the hull which are quite advanced for the epoch in which the ship has been built. So... In conclusion, even Corel doesn't really understand much about the ship! You can try search through the internet or wikipedia, and you will find there were around 6 Unicorns between 17th to 18th Century!! LOL!! Here's the link. Anyway, I do agree with Ianmajor that this HMS Unicorn is the one as mentioned in wikipedia which serviced from year 1747 to 1771. "... the Unicorn having a beakhead bow, a unicorn figurehead , two-light quarter galleries and only five pairs of quarterdeck gunports... " This line describes real close to the ship Check here if you're interested to know However, whether it's historical accurate or not, I'm gonna kit bash it Time to unbox!! The instruction plans of Corel is a bit... err... mehh... The font used is too small... might need magnifying glass (just pretend the sunglasses as magnifying glass ) Anyway, the picture instruction are good Excellent wood quality Some well cut strips.. Same goes to dowels Shiny figure head Terrible capstan... Despite the excellent quality of the wood strips and dowels, some fittings are badly shaped.. This is one example. Smaller blocks and gratings are to be trashed too I love this!!! Even the cannons are already blackened! And the stern gallery... hmm I don't blame the manufacturers for this, there's no way they can provide their customers well carved galleries.. planning to remake them. It's challenging, but learn a new skill.. y not? I'm overall satisfy with this kit. at least the wood quality is much better than Sergal ones.. oh ya, the ship cradle is included too! I've just done putting on the bulkheads, but haven't taken pictures.. Will upload them soon! Cheers!
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Ahoy Mates Please find my initial “out of box” review of Corel's Frigate Berlin. Please note that I am relatively new to this hobby and "easily impressed". I found the quality of the parts in this kit to be of a very high standard. The kit includes four sheets of single sided plans, an instruction manual, a vacuum formed plastic organizer of bits, another containing the gilded metal fashion pieces, canvas sail material and of course some wood. Also included was a very nice “coffee table style” book/catalog of Corel’s products and a small wooden bending jig. In the future, I will do a full inventory all of parts and post any issues or changes. The wood supplied in this kit was "gorgeous". There was no trace of any laser burn on any of the parts, bulkheads and keel parts were all precut, packaged in bags. The plywood bulkheads and hardwood keel items were impressive in their size and the thickness of the wood used; this is a big kit. The planking and other lengths supplied were clean, straight, and rich in color suggesting pieces were individually selected. There were very few dowels leading me to believe that I will be making masts from "scratch". The only disappointment so far in the kit supplied wood; the instructions suggest scribing planks for the deck. This leads me to believe I will be purchasing some additional wood for this kit. The long boat is a pre-carved “plug” style build and again; nicely done. The four sheets of plans or plates were crisp, highly detailed, and very informative; including images showing systematically how to complete some of the steps. The two dedicated to rigging were clean, well organized and gave the reader a very good understanding of the task. I cannot attest to the accuracy of these plans however. Although very well thought out and clear, there is no sheer plan, half breadth views, or planking layout on any of the included sheets. The plan notes are all in Italian too, and 'for me" will need to be translated. Overall I found the plans to be very good and of exceptional quality. The rigging plot is the best I have seen to date. I will use the word “included" to describe the instructions: They only convey an order to the build and not much more (It is listed as an advanced kit). On a plus, the index in the back of this book was very informative providing an excellent resource/appendix to the plans. Images and print quality were top notch. English translations were understandable and at times humorous. The bits were well packaged and again of a high quality. Quite a few are boxwood (Blocks, deadeyes and belaying pins), all are either hardwoods or metal (brass, copper, or the gilded metal). I found no Britannia or plastic except for the lantern glass. The photo etch was copper and much thicker then any I have seen before and well done. Five types of rope are included. In the minus column, the instructions state that the kit does not contain any blocks for the cannons. The cannons themselves are "gilded metal"; a milled piece of hardwood creates the carriages. The Gilded metal pieces are all nicely detailed. They are cast and quite heavy. I am uncertain of their make-up but can tell they will need to be securely mounted. I have a small reservation regarding how these parts will handle any tuning, changes, or touch ups. The construction of this kit will require some additional tools and skills for me to work the harder wood. Look for my build log sometime in 2014/15 here on MSW. Please feel free to post any questions you might have regarding this kit. I will do my best to answer them. For now I have re-sealed all the packages (less the plans and instructions) and stored the box in what I hope will be a safe location. I purchased this kit on sale from Model Expo (Presidents day sale). I feel I received much more then I paid for.
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Hello everyone. This will by my first model kit log and I am very eager to get started. I have done a few kits in the past, made quite a few mistakes, and learned a lot. This however will be my first cross-section build. It has been a couple years since I worked on a quality kit. I recently finished up my college degree, and I had no time before now to commit to such projects. This Corel Victory Cross Section seemed like a nice little project to refresh my skills before I start on my Model Shipways Syren, which is currently sitting on my shelf. There wasn't very many build log's on MSW for this kit, so I am going to try to make a nice log here for future builders. Anyway at this point I have un-boxed it, checked all the parts for quality, checked for missing parts, and preparing to get started. I am going to try to do as frequent updates as possible on this log, so be sure to check back often. If anyone has worked on this kit in the past I would greatly appreciate any advice or anything to watch out for during the build. The quality of this kit looks great. Instructions are a little hard to follow, but the 6 pages of plans are as accurate and as easy to read as any kit I have ever built. I am looking forward to diving in on this. More coming soon! -
Hi everyone, I decided to go with Corel's Scotland kit as my first build. I started it a few days ago, but first, an unboxing picture: Getting the bulkheads to fit into the keel properly took a lot of adjusting with needle files. Once I was satisfied with the alignment, I glued with them in place with glue gun and CA. A long nozzle attachment for my glue gun might be very useful for hard to reach places. Final result looks like this: Can someone who is building this let me know whether part 12 (3x3 Walnut strip) comes already tapered at the front end like in the middle picture on page 7 in the instructions? I did find Walnut strip, but it has flat ends. Also, am I supposed to cut it to fit it on the stern? Thanks! -
In 2010 I started a blog on this first build. The blog continued for perhaps 6 months when model ended up behind cupboard doors next to the Christmas tree decorations and a pile of books on boat building and rigging. Last week the hull found its way back to the building board for final stage of planking. . After three years of abstinence I had to get it all back in my fingers again; wood bending and cutting, doing all the checks before application of glue, getting it right My old MSW account and blog are gone, but I still got the pictures: Purchased by my dad somewhere in the eighties The instruction drawing, the big white area pretty much sums up the Corel planking instructions; must have left my dad with a huge question mark above his head and perhaps explains why it took a next generation to muster the courage to add glue to the various components - with inspiration derived from internet, especially MSW. I suppose Corel must have taken note of the work of Frederick af Chapman. Fredrik Henrik af Chapman http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fredrik_Henrik_af_Chapman the Ketch, no. 3 in Chapmans' Architectura Navalis Mercatoria, published in 1768. The book contained 62 illustrations of ships and smaller vessels, both Swedish and foreign designs. Some of these were Chapman's own designs, but many were also types that he had seen during visits to foreign countries. Everything from large warships to small fishing vessels were represented (Source: wikipedia). Set up of frames Solid Surinam hardwood handle keeping everything in check [ Many planking instructions suggest you should divide the space over the frames evenly according to the number of planks and then taper and hang the planks accordingly,thats what I did with the first layer of planking. Its wrong. With 5 mm planks the planks decide how they run, they are too narrow to allow for spiling, only with wide enough planks (planks which allow for spiling) the planker may devide the space according to his will looks like its made of match sticks But add filler and sand it all down, and youre ok.. with first layer, that is addition of false stems and keel (not included in kit), made from oak Problem: the instructed planking scheme for the second layer does not match the dimensions of the first layer as defined by the frames, I therefore find it necessary to heighten the bull warks therewith altering the the side profile / the run of the gunwale. And commence planking of second layer, I then find this picture on the internet... A revelation: planks do not necessary end at the bow but may turn upward and form "saddlebags" underneath the whales. Saddlebag After completion of the saddlebags (the segments which require dropplanks) I commenced at the keel with the lower concave sections (the sections which require stealers). . I let the first planks envelop the stem The two sections meet at the one plank which connects straight and free from bow to stern Another important find is that all you need for woodbending is a glass of water and a candle Stick the end of the wood in the glass, and let it soak until its wet about 3 cm above the water, then you know its soaked enough...then hold it above the candle and bend it, you will feel the wood give in. Dont overbend it, you cant bend it back. If the wood burns easily it probably means you did not soak long enough. If the wood dries up on the outside while heating use a brush to keep the wood wet on the outside of the bend. Do not only bend the wood but give it the right twist at the same time.. to ensure stress free gluing... for each and every plank.. [to be continued]
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