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Found 54 results

  1. I built the Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark some 50-55 years ago as a teenager. After recently finishing the Revell USS Constitution I decided to do the Cutty Sark again using the skills I have refined over the years as well as the patience that comes with age. This time I decided to work with acrylics as well as enamels to achieve the effects I want, or hope for. Will include more pics as I make my way.
  2. Hi All I¨m new to this page so have a litle pations wit mee . trying figuring out how it all funks. Ennyway My name is Jens and i live in Copenhagen Denmark , so my englis is onfortunaly not the bedst but i vill take Google translate in youse later on . I am building an old Billing Boats no. 459 Cutty sark as i board sekond hand som years ago and has now buildt for at least 2 years . im nerly finish with the ships hull and is about building the lifeboats . The pic. belov is about 1 week old. I planing to schove pic. from the start and the hole proces as if i started on day 1. and sofort to today . I consither this letter therfor as a test in how this page woarks an will therfor erease it again hwen i soone start my "reeal " building log . Cheers All. Jens
  3. Hello everyone. This is my first model ship and my first build log here. English is not my native language, so sorry for any mistakes. I started more than one year ago but I’ll start the log from the beginning, hoping to help other members not to do the same mistake I did. As suggested by the instructions, I started from the hull: The base coat was made by airbrush, acrylic colors (gunze and tamiya), followed by oil filters, dry pastels and oil dry brush in order to simulate the wood planking and to highlight some details. Tyre black was used for the hull, highlighted with gray. A mix of copper and gold, washed with green/blue oil were used for the Munz metal planking. Buff, desert yellow and similar tones were used the base for the wood. Burnt umber filters helped to break the uniformity and bring the wood a better look (at least I hope…) and the details were highlighted by pastels and oils (remember that the detail are raised and not recessed in this old kit). That's it for now. Hope you like it and don't be afraid to criticize!
  4. Hello guys, I took the plunge to build cutty sark beauty in this massive scale, but... i am about to finish it now, hovewer I thought I could still get some help or share my limited experiences and technique ...,most likely thinking if I had known amount of work, i would not have started probably. but very glad i did. I am ships "afficionado" since kid time, and being from country wihout sea, obviously. :)) I hope its ok to post backwards, but i will go from beginning, knowing what went smoothly and what i regret ...this was a longest journey of my life, probably knowing about that ship more that I want by now :)) I followed logs of some so I am obliged to share and hopefully provide fun. Original idea was to use as less bought parts as possible, to make most of ship myself, and i decided to go without rigging and masting at this point. it is huuge. 3 meters long ! , beam about 450 mm. I settled at builing it from 2 water level up, as I always liked sea level ships more, being able to install water later on and for practical reasons to compensate a massivness so it is not that big to move. I do respect deeply small scale builders and I confess I am not able to put eyes and fingers to that torture or passion´, whatever you call it, FInally, I will mention a troubles of big builds, that have their own quirks as their advantages for detailing making atc....but bending those big lumbers is challenge.... following Campbell plan , thank you 1. not really engineering approach transferring plan, all 19 bulkheads will be approx 15cm from each other that will I hope provide very solid skeleton for 3 mm think single planking....
  5. Hi, This is my first wooden ship build. I started quite a few years ago, but I'll start the log from the beginning. I'm learning as I go, so I'll let you know my mistakes as well as problems with the kit. Thanks Marc
  6. I built this exact Revell Cutty Sark model when it was new in the 1970's with my dad. It got destroyed at some point in a move and when I saw this kit on e-bay I had to build it again. He has since passed away but I think he would have appreciated the finished product again. I have always liked the Cutty and my daughter and I had a chance to visit the real one in Greenwich, England a few years ago. It was beautiful. If you ever get a chance then go see it, what a marvelous museum. After that trip I found this model and I was hooked again. I took me about 600 hours to build and rig her. I decided not to put the sails on as that is the way she is now in Greenwich. I bought some brass fittings and railings from a Czech Republic modelling company and they really added to the realistic look. It was a royal pain drilling out the holes for the brass railings and then running ultrathin wire through the holes in each. Some of the plastic was very brittle and it was almost 50 years old and several masts I had to heat up slightly to straighten them a bit. Amazingly, this kit had nothing missing after all these years and in an open box. When she was finished I built a display case which now sits in my living room. Had to get he bosses approval first though! I think it came out nice. What do you all think?
  7. Well with winter round the corner, it's time to hunker down and get back into the shipyard with Cutty Sark. This is a model I have always wanted to build since starting out in this hobby with Billing's Mary Ann. Thanks to Kip (aka Sawdust), I was able to acquire this second hand model which he purchased from a neighbor for 2 bottles of wine. He also sold me Nepean's book and Campbell's drawings so I have lots of info over and above what Billing supplies which isn't much. Thanks to Lou's lead, I have also purchased J.J. van Griethuysen,s drawings which are spectacular. As you can see from the photos, this is an early Billing kit , from the 70's I would guess. Einar Billing includes a little intro with the Reader's Digest version of instructions they are known for. In them he states that the kit is intended to be built and not merely assembled. He expects the builder to exercise skill and imagination in the building of the kit. Sage advise indeed. As with all earlier Billing kits, the hull and fittings are sold separately. Billing believed some modellers might want to create their own fittings. They also recognized that many models are never completed so why buy a bunch of fittings that might never make it onto the model which will never be used. The majority of the wood in this kit is mahogany, which you can imagine is now rather dried out and a little warped. I have decided to replace the hull planking with obechi which I have used on previous Billing kits. It's not expensive, bends easily with a little steam and will be painted, so no need for top quality timber. As the build progresses, I will decide what other wood needs replacing. As can be seen from the photos, the kit is already started. The original owner of the kit did get it stared but then realized he no longer wanted to continue. So I have the kit framed and with the false deck installed. The rest will be all me. He has done a first rate job, and the keel is straight so it is a good point to resume where he left off. Job one will be to bevel the bulkheads. So here's a couple of pictures of what is to come...
  8. Link to content is in signature Introduction This log is intend to be personal track record of first "serious" attempt to scratch building of my very old Cutty Sark kit, started long ago and forgotten somewhere in house, mixed with some personal observations and notes Edits notes and remarks will be inserted later, to show points what are dangerous place (for dummy as me) to bump in undesired situation caused by in-patience, an-experience and God¨s will I am not a master, rather novice with too much ambition, but think in MSW there is enough room for all of us to share and learn, to keep a good time together My long lasting journey in wonderful world of ship modeling started long long ago in, I think, usual way. As almost every kid I tried myself in some cheep plastic plane models, fast and furious, short life each ( they can not fly...) Then after a while in paper car models ( my own creation), made about 30 pieces, no one leave ( they can not drive). Then, in a high school I made some no-name (or forgoten name) plastic kit ships, also no one leave ( they can not stay above heater ...). Last one, "Stella" ( Heller) died and rest in peace during cleaning dust few years ago This little Heller model on some way entered me door to "yellow brick road": Heller original colors in kit, by my opinion, were on such a type that model rather looks as toy, so I experimented with colors to catch color of wood, added extra details on deck and extra ropes ... joy in playing, and obviously first sign with arrow to entrance for something that on MSW is called "dark side" And then, once upon a time ... very long ago during the study of law, I make my first step for modelling ships in wood. I got done Columbus Santa Maria (If I remember well, also TEHNODIDAKTA Pula, but I am not so sure about manufacturer from this time distance) , made it, with a lot of improvisation, and with extra added ropes which to me it belongs ... but it looked nice for me. In that time I do not know nothing about real ship modelling, made it without necessary thinking, with half of brain, and in unnecessary hurry. Santa Maria got her way with my first wife more about 30 years ago. Somewhere on that days, my twin brother made little and simple Heller`s Cutty Sark, and maybe that moment I fall in love with sail ships and their beauty Then I finished law study, went in Army for one year, Navy in Pula, Croatia, former Yugoslavia ... and that was this ... 35 years ago only "Tehnodidakta" from Pula had made wooden models in kit. ( It was impossible for us mortals to order and pay kit from other country, even to know something more about ships, models, modeling techniques, tools and so). I was delighted with that discovery, and I bought wooden kit with plans and materials for "Cutty Sark". If I remember well, only few models were there ( Santa Maria, domestic ship "Jadran", some ships from old Dubrovnik, Bounty - not sure, and some domestic smaller historical models). And as every youth, wanting to be different and to choose the greatest of offered kits, a beautiful and extremely complex model with many sails and ropes, I bought it, knowing not in what I am just entering. To say again, I did not know absolutely nothing about Cutty Sark, and having no idea what serious modelling really is To write about Cutty Sark is unnecessarily, there is so much written and published, sure on much better way I can do. Also, She is still alive in her Museum I started working on model in 1984. and it kept me up until 1985-6, when I met friend with a really nice model of Cutty done, and I realized - or should I do it right, or it does not work anyway. And she went in deepest dark in my attic to collect dust and to cry silently in her dark corner Then came usual things: got a steady job, got a wife, divorced, abandoned study for doctorate, and another wife, and two little children, start and finish building my house, become a attorney, etc etc etc... and, after "only" three very fast decades, finally the time has come to proceed, if I do not want to watch TV or read a book, or work, and there is no other homework to do. Children ( 22 and 24) are not children any more, and they need me only for money ( joke), they are adults now with their own life ( students finishing their study) ... and, suddenly, I find that appears a few hours in day exclusively concerned only for me. Amazing discovery In meantime, trying to interest my son, we (I) made some simply plastic, I think Revell Pirate ship toy Jolly Roger. Failed attempt, made in less than a week, but I enjoy making it The real trigger of my come back in wooden ship modeling was a appearance in Serbia of DeAgostini`s specialized periodical journal ( in 100 appearances) with successive parts of galleon, and I like it very much, but do not like many simplification of details which are important for me. Drawing boards on the deck with a graphite pen ? No, thanks. Waiting two weeks for single part ? No thanks. And then I remembered that I already have a plans of Cutty, the one of the nicest sail ship ever. Of course, the one with the most complicated rigging ... For difference, now, after 30 years I finally have a working corner and a mini-workshop in heat-room near the garage (and not to forget, continuous war with my daughters Persian cat and long cat hair eveeeeeerywhere). All rest wooden parts were 30 years old, and they have dried up and became largely and almost unusable. In fact, there are left only plans, some old strips and veneer, and some plastic / metal parts that I should see if I'll ever use them. So, I made up my mind, dig on mess of old things in attic of house, FIND Her, and a few months ago I started from the beginning, only with saved old blueprint sheets ( old misfit try of Cutty went in trash) with the big important difference that exists today „His Majesty the Internet“ and a millions of pictures of finished models and details of the models, which is of invaluable help. Not to forget , today in Serbia there are affordable many required tools like Dremel/Einhel tools, and so. A great help is the fact that "my" ship still exists reconstructed in Greenwich, and there are available many photos of her details for research Edit on september 23.2013: At the begin of this month I find Campbell plans, and from that time my work goes mainly by them, and my dedication and way of looking to my work rapidly change from day to day Beginning And so ... my first brave steps toward swamp, with more braveness than a brain presence I did not mention "swamp" accidentally. As time goes by, I decided to do some steps in building in my own way (?), not in way which is ordinary, and in sheets. (for example - making my own dead-eyes ( later - blocks ?) and, later - ropes, my way of planking, etc etc). What a confident fool ... but ... that is just me - whole life I discover hot water again and again ... Later I discovered that sheets have mistakes and insufficient instructions, my hands and experience are mainly not precise as I want, patience ... what is that ? But they are much better than 30 years ago, and my imagination and improvisation still exist, and I learn every day Really significant stage of my build is finding MSW, and here are first steps ... First decision was that I do not want to pay somebody for laser cut. What then rest for me to do ? Using paper with photo copy of plans to transfer plan to plywood. A "bit" of cutting and a "bit" of glue, and my way (?) to hold angle of 900 and to assume required stiffness skeleton for further work . Later, when time to mount deck come, I found that ship's ribs are not well drawn in plan, or I did not cut and mount them properly. Not provide proper and sufficient longitudinal and transverse slope of the deck. Yes, it will be quite a job to fit it There was a lot of my unexperience in this , very very very significant stage of building. In POB building (I discovered later) the crucial thing is right dimensions, position and angle of ribs. EVERYTHING later depends. Consequences can be, and in my build are - catastrophic. Months of lost time trying to correct mess, and all time re-examining myself - was it better to go from start. If that happen - to hell with everything, and start over without more thinking. If you do not do this - be sure that at moment you think that succed in correcting one part, another part will protrude out and jump right on your hand. And when fix this, third part will hit directly to your face. And when fix this, you discover that first corrected part is not good. Some kind of perpetuum mobil and never lasting process. You will spend months instead week or two to make keel and ribs again, this time with thinking and measuring. And as you are impatience full running to start planking on this messed bulkhead construction, as I was, be sure that you will have great enjoyment in unnecessary work And there is stern from one piece (it was corrected later in proper angles) - not just one correction, smart learns from others' mistakes, and fool ... In that stage, I have not idea how complex are curvatures of whole ship, and how much time I have to spend on it ... to lose them ... and to find them ... and to lose them again ... And, oh, what a self-confident ... Later I concluded that keel is little distorted, mainly by "my way" of assuming "right" angles, but there is no way to correct this .... Deck mounted with many previous corrections of ribs to assume slope. This was big big big MISTAKE. Right order is : first planking hull, and after that - deck mounting. See posts #240 and connected future posts. If you want to follow lines on upper side of ribs that lead to longitudinal and latitudinal curvature of deck, do not this. Deck can not be from one single piece of veneer 1mm width, as I did. You can not twist it in proper way. There is no way to do it. I tried, and result is - months of trying to correct mess and find lose lines. You can not correct it at all never again. So, better is to plank with strip by strip. For consequences, see later post http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2501-cutty-sark-by-nenad-m-tehnodidakta-19711983-campbell-plans/page-42#entry156687 Holder for dead-eyes and wedges in one peace, not in four parts as in plan. It is much easier ( ha, ha ha !!!) way to follow the line from planes. Also mistake from same reason.I lose proper lines of hull, and this hang over my head all the time ... And holders must be redone completly Whole deck planting with veneer, also not in original plan. In original kit was wooden plate 2mm with 1mm deep and 1 mm wide grooves carved full-length of plate. I mounted that on old Cutty. What a joke ! First two pictures represent deck from kit, then part of a sheet, and at last picture is my try Edit Martch 31. 2014 : Fore and Aft deck - third time re-planked, main deck - second time re-planked Fool made dead-eyes rather than use plastic from kit ( For details - post #16). 66x designated only above deck. There will be so much more latter. Enormous work, and enormous lost time. Yes, I have to make them again in better way And twisted rope handmade instead wire. More elegant an more real, as I thought - obviously on that time I had no right idea what all this will be to the end Plastic dead-eye from kit at left, and self-made in center and right on picture Preventive cover with light sadoline, and view from the future bow - Once again mistake, I had to remove all traces of sadoline And then, when I join to MSW, was a time just start planking, planking, planking ... and to discover that ALL first moves on this chees table are just - wrong
  9. Hi Everyone. I hope that I am doing this right? I am not very IT savvy, however Hope to get it right one day. I am attempting the Cutty Sark as my first build, after doing little bit's previously. I am very new to modelling and find this site very informative. I never took many photos when I first started as there was no need at the time, however I have a few after I did the decking, I am a bit further on now so will take more pics when my new camera battery comes, "I let it run down too much and it wouldn't recharge?" Sorry about the big pic I don't know what happened, I thought it was resized. God bless everyone hope you all keep safe. Kind regards Martin.
  10. Hi all, Just joined the forum. I have a couple of half finished things to finish off, so apologies if I'm not starting from the beginning. First up is my old Cutty Sark model, started in the eighties that was pretty near finished, but I'm now re-rigging. (Next will be my Corel Wasa, that is much less progressed) The model was nearly done, save for some rigging details on the fore mast. However, in order to take it with me to Australia, I took the whole rigging down, so I'm restarting from this point. (Added picture of model some 5 years ago, before packing and transporting to Australia) Just starting on the mizzen now:
  11. Click on the tags in the title above (shown in black) for an instant list of all the build logs for that kit subject.
  12. Hi all been away a while (new job, moved house, negotiating modelling space) i bought this off my brother (he decided it was too frustrating for him) there are a few problems to sort out on it (I need to strip the decking off and square the frame up , it's a bit warped) he took the planking off which has saved me a job (he bought some really thin wood for the planking as he struggled with the supplied wood but it's so thin I can see it disappearing when sanded do I'm going to use the supplied wood) here are some pics, I've managed to get the deck off fairly easily getting the wood off the deck and squaring the frame may be quite a bit harder. This will be a very slow build. I think the pins hes used in the transom are way out of scale.
  13. As I'm now into the awful job of rigging out my H.M.S.Victory,I've decided to make a start on this old partially built kit I bought off someone who decided it wasn't for him,and threw it up in his loft for a few years! It will save me getting too bored with the rigging job. So it will now be a bit of rigging,then a bit of building/repairing. Should break the day up nicely! This Cutty Sark is,I think,a 1970's kit.The hull and main decking is assembled,but there are a couple of repairs to do first.See photo. It does appear to be the complete kit,and there is also the fittings kit,which is unopened.All the instructions are present,as are all the plans and sails. No laser cut parts here,just marked out,so my coping saw/scroll saw/bandsaw skills will have to be good! Wish me luck
  14. Hi everyone! This will be my official build log for Construto's Cutty Sark 1/90. I am already about 5 weeks into the build and finished the hull planking, deck cabins & decorations and is currently working on masts and rigging. I start my build log this late because I do not want to end up not finishing the model at early stage and everyone knows about it. While I was building the ship, I tried to stick to manufacture's plan with no side work of sketch builds. I will also not paint or stain my model as I think the original dark and light wood color scheme is quite nice. First is a little bit history of Cutty Sark form the Manufacture: "The Cutty Sark is a clipper ship. Built in 1869 for the Jock Willis shipping line, she was one of the last tea clippers to be built and one of the fastest, coming at the end of a long period of design development which halted as sailing ships gave way to steam propulsion. The opening of the Suez Canal (also in 1869) meant that steam ships now had a much shorter route to China, so Cutty Sark spent only a few years on the tea trade before turning to the trade in wool from Australia, where she held the record time to Britain for ten years. Improvements in steam technology meant that gradually steamships also came to dominate the longer sailing route to Australia and the ship was sold to the Portuguese company Ferreira and Co. in 1895, and renamed Ferreira. She continued as a cargo ship until purchased by retired sea captain Wilfred Dowman in 1922, who used her as a training ship operating from Falmouth, Cornwall. After his death she was transferred to the Thames Nautical Training College, Greenhithe in 1938 where she became an auxiliary cadet training ship alongside HMS Worcester. By 1954 she had ceased to be useful as a cadet ship and was transferred to permanent dry dock at Greenwich, London on public display. Cutty Sark is one of three ships in London on the Core Collection of the National Historic Ships Register (the nautical equivalent of a Grade 1 Listed Building) – alongside HMS Belfast and SS Robin. She is one of only three remaining original composite construction (wooden hull on an iron frame) clipper ships from the nineteenth century in part or whole, the others being the City of Adelaide, awaiting transportation to Australia for preservation, and the beached skeleton of Ambassador of 1869 near Punta Arenas, Chile." There are some photos of the packaging.
  15. Beginning a new one after a short break. Here's the "what's in the box" picture. This is my first Mantua kit, and I'll be interested to see differences from other kit makers. One thing I've noticed is that plans are printed on both sides of the paper, which may turn out to be cumbersome (vs. just posting them up on the wall). Regards, David
  16. I received this hull of the Cutty Sark back in 2013. A friend of my son gave it to him to give to me. It has sat in my boatyard all this time. Back in March I started working on by planking the deck.
  17. I'll be starting a log for this build. I'm finishing my current project but I've done a dry fit of center keel and bulkheads and this is as good a place ever to start. The kit is the newer version of the Cutty Sark and I have gone through the counting process. Some pieces and such were short on the count and Ages of Sail will be getting the materials to me (nice folks). I'm sure I'll be needing advice and guidence and any comments will be appreciated. For reference I will be using Longridge, Campbell and plans from the Maritime Museum. I intend to do some bashing but my goal is not to go overboard with details.
  18. Before i start i wanted to let you know my "e" key sticks so im sorry if my spelling is a bit off. So, i told myself i would never do a kit build, i dont consider them to be true ship modeling. Scratch all the way. HOWVER, i could not pass up a $50 BRAND NEW 40 inch long latina cutty sark POB model!! This was probably the best craigslist deal i have ever found. I looked it up and these are 450~ new. It is ten years old (not the 40 yar old model i thought it was) but in great condition for the price. The awkward thing is, I am also doing a scratch built clipper ship from the same era, the Ariel tea clipper. And that project is my baby so i cannot turn my back on that now that i have a kit of almost the same model... There was, however, a warped/bent bulkhead and the false keel was slightly bent as well. verything else was fine. So i clamp down the bulkhead and douse it in CA, and put the keel in my home made keel straightener/holder which works EXTREMELY well for just being two perfectly straight pieces of wood glued parellel to each other on a plywood board. Let them sit over night. The next day (today) after work I check them and the keel is completely straight and the bulkhead is about 85% straight, much btter than what it was. After perusing through the box i notice a few things missing. The gold scroll work and the gold lettering for the bow and the stern are gone, as well as the plastic "glass" for th skylights. If anyon knows where i could purchase this in 1/84th scale pleas let me know. everything else seems to be in order. I then proceed to dry fit everything and after a few adjustments find that everything is good to go. i glue the blkheads in with elmers wood glue, and while waiting for that to dry i paint the sides of each bulkhead so i can make sure each is symmtrical while fairing the hull. i then dry fitted the false deck and that is where i am at now besides a tiny bit of fairing of the stern. Any advice or help is greatly appreciated. anything in general i should know about kits. Also is the rigging on this bad boy as complex as it looks? It frightens me.
  19. Gday all, this will be my second build but first log, wasn't really sure on posting one for the first through my baby steps, seing all the amazing builds her got me a bit intimidated... I have come to realize from seeing how helpful the input can be from other members, to improve my techniques and general knowledge of the ships, it will be very beneficial for me to post one for this build. i received this kit as a (very hinted towards) Christmas present and have been upgrading my workspace ever since to accommodate building it after gluing all the frames into the keel i noticed a kick in the stern, i tried to steam it out best as posible and rasp more off the effected side starting to glue and nail on the hull planking is an experience seing as this is my first single layer ship, i will be coppering the waterline and painting above so it wont be too bad i purchased copper rudder hinges and 100 copper plates to test from modelshipyard, but am a bit unsure to the exaggerated rivet heads on the plates and am up to sugestions or a correction, also would anyone have what would be closest to correct dimensions for the plates, im unsure that i got the right ones :S
  20. This will be my second build log since joining as a member in November 2018. I started building the Cutty Sark by Mantua Sergal on September 1st. Now, in late November, I have pretty much wrapped up all of the hull and deck work and am starting to work on the masts and (gasp) the daunting rigging. I’ll try to do better with my pictures. I read the build log by keelhauled, posted back in March 2013, and his overview of the Mantua Sergal Cutty Sark kit is so perfect that I’m going to borrow (plagiarize) a good bit of it and include it here. I hope keelhauled won’t be offended. His work was too masterful to ignore. KIT OVERVIEW Manufacturer: Mantua (Sergal), Italy Model: MA 789 (Art 789) Dimensions: Length 45” (1150mm) Height 26” Scale: 1:78 Purchased: 2018 Price: $549 USD (2018) Construction: Double Plank on Bulkhead: Limewood inner, Walnut outer Fittings: Brass, copper, bronze, copper plates, walnut dead eyes and blocks, copper sheet with ornamentation and deck siding, bronze figurehead, grey cotton rigging line in various sizes, silk flag. Instructions: Booklet with translations into English, Italian, French, and German. In my opinion the translations are similar to what Japanese instructions in the 1950s used to look like. Not very clear and only marginally useful. Plans: Four very large two sided sheets – Eight plans total . 1:1 sheets for the deck, side, standing, and running rigging. Other sheets detail building steps. The parts are generally high quality but in at least three instances I felt I could improve on the stuff they included. I’ll detail my deviations from what Sergal Provided as I go along. As for reference materials I haven’t yet checked out the books and sources that keelhauled included in his build log, but can certainly recommend a book which has become sort of a bible for me re the building of rigged ships in general. Mastini, Frank. Ship Modeling Simplified: Tips and Techniques for Model Construction from Kits . McGraw-Hill Education. (I have the Kindle edition which allows me to check things on the fly while out in the shop). KEEL & HULL CONSTRUCTION I’ve read a lot about various methods for checking the alignment of keel and bulkhead and deck components – and certainly about all of the after-market products that supposedly make this a breeze -- but the laser cut parts in this kit slipped together so easily and precisely that I didn’t waste a lot of time agonizing over that. Instead of an after-market vise to clamp the keel I used the large end vise on my workbench to keep things stable while I assembled the parts. Many years ago I built a plank-on-bulkhead version of the Vasa (a Billings model), and even though it didn’t turn out very well I learned about soaking & bending planks, and using small pins/nails to hold them in place while the glue was drying. That was a single layer planking job, and I think that the double planking of the Cutty Sark is much better for obtaining a smooth finish on the hull. It was during the application of the second layer of planks that I began taking pictures of my work. I got pretty cocky at that point, figuring that if I could do a nice planking job like this that this build was going to be a lot easier than I expected. So, after lots of sanding and filling and smoothing I proceeded to spray paint the hull with matte black paint as directed. This what the hull looked like when I finished -- but not until I had stripped, sanded and repainted the dang thing 2-3 times. I tend to work too fast on almost everything, and this was a really good message that I needed to slow waaay down. DECKING Applying the main decking material (which may or may not have been maple) was tedious but ultimately very satisfying. The directions suggested painting the decks with a nice varnish when they were done, and I used a satin finish spar urethane. I smoothed the work with 0000 steel wool between coats and after the final coat. The directions actually suggested that I start applying the gazillion copper plates to the lower hull before doing the deck work above, but I was a bit discomforted at the way the black matte paint I had applied to the hull was prone to showing fingerprints, so I decided to put that chore off. My disappointment with some of the model’s instructions started at that point. Ultimately, once I got the hull finish smooth I painted over the matte black with spar urethane, then restored the matte finish by carefully rubbing it out with 0000 steel wool. The final result looks great, but it required a lot of fussiness to get there. COPPER PLATING I found this chore to be a nightmare. If each little plate wasn’t perfectly aligned with the waterline or the surrounding plates it looked really crappy. Avoiding getting glue on the plates was very difficult too, and even when a line of plates was firmly glued on there was a tendency for some of the plates to bow out a bit, and some even popped off while I was working. Worst of all, when it came to tapering the plates I had no clue re how to do that. Tapering or trimming stiff little 1:78 scale copper plates with scissors or a small grinder just was an untenable answer. I suspect that anyone who has installed copper plating to a model of this scale will probably be nodding with understanding. In desperation I went hunting for advice online, and that's how I discovered Model Ship World and its fantastic group of members who can provide great advice on any phase of model ship building. I found the answer for my copper plating problems with a fellow that had ditched the little plates in favor of copper electrical tape. Sheer genius. I got some of that tape, stripped the lower hull of copper plates (for the second time) and applied it. Using an Xacto knife I carefully added slits to emulate the plates, and it worked great. I had to forego the rivets on the copper plates that were provided, but on a 1:78 scale ship it was no great loss. After I had the tape applied I finished up the lower hull with two coats of satin finish spar urethane for protection and enhanced bonding. I didn’t take specific pictures to document all of the above, but the one below should give you a rough idea about the results. DECK WORK Now let’s get on to another gripe I have with this model. Beautiful brass hull decorations are provided, as well as a whole sheet of doors and decorations for the deck crew quarters and hatches. The directions tell you to spray paint these bits with either black or white paint and then, when dry, to lightly rub the raised surfaces with a 600 grade emery cloth to (theoretically) rub away the paint on the raised surfaces and leave a decoration or component with a bright brass accent surrounding the colors. As it turns out, rubbing the paint, even very gently, results in you removing the very thin brass plating and exposing the copper underlayment. It just ruins the piece. I was beside myself, because there was so much of this work to be done. I had to finish the hull decorations with a very fine brush and some gold flake model paint. Looks OK, but they would be better with a real brass finish. The initial work on the deck housings and other deck components started with the stern deck house. Here is a picture showing a partially completed deck house, along with the various decorative brass pieces that are to be attached. I didn’t even think of spray painting and rubbing – I once again wielded the smallest brush I could find and filled in the sunken areas by hand. Yeah, I know they look OK in this picture, but I was not happy with them. Here is a picture showing the stern deck house completed and installed. The brass stanchions and railings came out nicely. Note also the rudder control housing and the ship’s wheel. BOWSPRIT Before tackling the other deck accouterments I went to work on the preliminary assembly and installation of the bowsprit and the hawse supports. Also note the two small lavatories (er, outhouses) on the main deck and the bits on the bench that ultimately became the two cargo hatches. Work on the rest of the deck structures went pretty well, and I think the various components look very nice. Shown below: one of the main hatches, a windlass, belaying pin holders and a very nice bilge pump assembly. The decorative panels and doors on the crew quarters shown in these photos require some better explanation – because I think I managed to solve the hand-painting of brass pieces problem in a rather unique and satisfying (to me) fashion. After carefully measuring the surfaces to be covered by the brass panels, I turned to an old friend – PowerPoint – and designed similar decoration panels for the crew quarters. It’s easy to size things in PowerPoint, and it also has the capability for dragging in colors from photographs. I took a picture of one of the brass pieces and used it to make the designed panels really look authentic. Here’s the brass picture and the designs I worked up to replace all of the brass work on the whole deck. I printed the page above on glossy photo paper on my ink jet printer, trimmed everything with scissors and glued them each in place with Goop rubber cement. Authentic? Maybe not, but a satisfying solution for me that I think looks way better than the glue-on brass pieces provided. Note the comments about properly orienting the crew cabin doors to account for wind direction. I got that tip from Mancini’s great book. It seems counter-intuitive, but the wind comes from behind on a sailing vessel, and doors that open the wrong way can be ripped right out of a seaman’s hands. LIFE BOATS So, I went on feeling my way through the rest of the deck details, and that finally included building and mounting the lifeboats. They are also plank on-bulkhead construction, and were fun to make. Laser-cut wooden parts are a huge improvement in model boats since the last ones I built years ago. Here are some other pictures of deck construction ... … and on to adding support chains to the bowsprit and installing the anchors. Yeah, I know the figurehead is supposed to be white, but I like the bronze color better. MASTS & YARDS For the past two weeks I’ve been working on the masts. Here is a shot of what I’ve done so far. See if you can detect the problems I’ve had that are going to lead me to start all over again next week. Note the completed and installed life boats that came out quite nicely. The masts themselves are pretty much OK. But the yards are a disaster in my eyes. Shaping them and gluing them together was not bad, but the attachments of the lower yards to each of the masts is “amateur hour”, and the rope supports that sailors stand on to work on the sails are all grossly out of scale. Also, I used the spar urethane on the masts and yards, which are supposed to be matte black, and it just came out way too shiny. No good. Last but not least, when trying to drill holes in the yards it is almost impossible to keep one’s drill bit from wandering off-center. Bad, bad, bad. DRILL PRESS FOR ROTARY TOOLS To solve the hole drilling problem I’ve ordered a drill press assembly for the Dremel, along with a machinist’s vise to hold even the skinniest of dowels firmly while I drill. I found all kinds of cheapo attachments like that ($30-$40), but somewhere I ran across a link to a review of a small company in CA that produces what appear to be real high-end accessory attachments for rotary tools. https://www.evilmadscientist.com/2013/drillpressplus/ If you’re interested in accuracy, and you aren’t totally constrained by costs, you might want to take a look at this guy’s work. Some really neat ideas for the small home machine shop, all powered by rotary tools. http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/drill_press_plus.html I am looking forward to taking delivery of my new drill press station next week. I’ll let you know if it’s as good as it looks. "He who dies with the most tools wins." So ends my rather lengthy narrative re stage one of my Cutty Sark build. From this point on I’ll try to do a much better job with photos and update my progress as I go -- and maybe not be so wordy. I’ve already gotten several responses to my previous posts from model shipmakers around the world. Really neat. I hope to continue tapping into this fine group -- not for approval of my work, but for suggestions re how I can do everything better. Phase 2 coming soon. Tom in NC November, 2018
  21. Guess this time I'll start at the beginning. I'll spare the group the open box pictures. I did inventory everything in there. It's all there. The wood strips, plywood etc. look like pretty good quality. The laser cut parts are nice and clean - although I've learned here not to trust them. I'll be looking at the member logs of the same kit (Art. 789) for trouble spots. Like a lot of other kits, the blocks are terrible. The rope set and deadeyes are not too bad, but I'll replace them all with Syren model Co.'s materials. Right out of the box the keel is warped - actually just bowed. I'll probably do inter-bulkhead spacer blocks, so I figure I can straighten it at that step. As expected the cast parts will need a lot of cleanup, and the stanchions are flat etched brass, so I'll have to replace them: This thing is big!! I have no idea what I'll do with it when it's done, but I figure I have years to worry about that. Wish me luck! - Tim
  22. okay, part 1 get topic built. Next read how to add pictures

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