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Showing results for tags 'Finished'.
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A model of Averof was in my mind for some time, but the resin kit from YS was really expensive. I dont have much experience with scratchbuilding, only kitbashing, so I decided that the best course of action was a small waterline diorama in a familiar scale. So 1/700 it is! I'll propably add photo etched railings so that will help. But needless to say the ship comes up quite small. All this because the Royal Louis kit is really tiring me out... The diorama will show Averof in Faliro as she is today. So, materials are foamcore, cardpaper, superglue balsa and melted spruce. I went for a simple bread and butter method (the ship is tiny) It will require a lot of filling and sanding though First steps -
Queen Anne Royal Barge circa 1700 –1:24 scale. This build has been waiting in the wings for three years, long overdue to get stuck into Chuck’s wonderful creation of this early18thc Royal Barge. I can only hope that I do justice to this high-end kit as indicated above. I am fortunate that there are around a dozen recorded builds on MSW at various stages. Half of them are completed, so I will have the benefit of a wealth of experience from those who have gone before. My first step will be to read through Chuck’s comprehensive build manual and the logs of my fellow members to get a feel for the build. B.E. 24/02/2021- 174 replies
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As HMS Penelope approaches completion I decided to work on something simpler before starting another Flyhawk kit heavy on PE and fine detail. So this is the IBG 1/700 Hunt class destroyer Kujawiak. The box is a lot emptier than the Flyhawk kits but there is a small PE fret which has all the railings and inclined ladders. It also has some very intricate pieces to fold into the 20mm Oerlikons that look like they will be a challenge. Luckily there are spares in the fret. Its a waterline model; no lower hull is provided. The plastic is quite soft but there is nice detail on the hull and superstructure. The four inch gun barrels are rather poor and the injection points may be difficult to clean up. I plan to replace the barrels with brass ones. The mast is very nasty and I hope to replace it using brass rod. I found a great book about the Hunts in Polish service. Very informative with a lot of photographs and a final chapter covering the modern times location of the wreck of the Kujawiak (sunk in 1942 off Malta) and the recovery of the ships bell. The book is written in Polish and English with each language in a separate column on each page. The book comes with two sets of prints for each of the four ships; one in 1/200 and then in 1/350 scale. Very nicely drawn The back of the book comprises four sections of 3D computer images generated by the authors, one for each ship. A lot of detail is shown. They also confirm the IBG paint scheme. So the plan is to add brass gun barrels and mast and use the book as a reference to add some of the left over deck hardware from Penelope. The IBG bridge in particular looks very bare. The quad pompom is quite good but I think the Flyhawk one is nicer. Painting the camouflage should be a challenge in masking. Thanks for looking Alan -
Hi All, Following prompting from other members on the welcome page I’ve decided to do a build log for my second build, a Bluenose II from AL. My first build was an HMS Renown Steam Pinnace by Billings, which went ok, so now venturing on to something with a bit of rigging. Before I talk about the build itself I’d like to say few words about the AL instructions. I’ll confess one if the reasons for going for the AL Bluenose was the more detailed instruction booklets I’d glimpsed on some of the photos on other people’s build logs. After experiencing the exceptionally brief Billings instructions (even going to the extent of basically saying, “ build it to look like the picture on the box.” I’m paraphrasing but you get the gist) and their blurry out of focus monochrome photos, I was looking forward to something clearer. I don’t know how recent a development this is but, on opening the box, they no longer provide a pamphlet with the instructions. Rather, there is a DVD with copies on there. I imagine AL may have saved a pound or so in not providing a printed version. My gripe is that it then cost me a fortune in printer ink to print it off myself! ( 2 full ink cartridges!!) You have been warned.- 146 replies
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Starting an older kit manufactured in the late 1980’s, solid hull. Something different for a change of pace.- 19 replies
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I hope there is room for yet another Syren build log. I don't own any power tools apart from a dremel and a drill, so I'm curious to see how I progress on this build. I also hope I can keep up with the great builds I have seen on this forum. This is my second kit and first build log. First was an Artesania Latina's Virginia 1819 which I completed a few months ago. I'm sure everyone here has seen it but here are some photos of the Syren kit (please let me know if have not selected the right resolution, I took these on my phone and uploaded them here without any size modifications): I started organizing the parts by checking the parts list and labeling everything: I already have a few questions before starting the build 😅: 1) I got wood belaying pins instead of brass due to shipment issues from China. What's the general consensus on which is the better material? 2) Are the number of parts in the part list more than what is required in the build? The reason I ask is because I am missing a few 3/32” Single Blocks out of the 310 total which is mentioned on the list.- 942 replies
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Hello Everyone This is my first pass at a build log so please forgive all the omissions and errors. I am attempting to build HMS Penelope from the Flyhawk 1/700 scale kit. I have the Deluxe kit with two sheets of PE and metal gun barrels. I also have a wooden deck as an additional item. I returned to plastic models last year having not built a kit since 1970 and I find things have changed since those days. Kits and aftermarket parts are spectacularly good and my eyes and hands have gone in the other direction. I have been building WW2 RN destroyers from Flyhawk, IBG and Trumpeter mostly with some elementary PE. This will be a step up in many ways so I hope I can bring it to a successful conclusion. HMS Penelope like so many ships had a pretty rough war. HMS Penelope was an was an Arethusa-class light cruiser commissioned 13 November 1936. She operated with the 2nd Cruiser Squadron on convoy escort duties. In April and May 1940, she took part in the Norwegian Campaign. On 11 April Penelope ran aground off Fleinvær while hunting German merchant ships entering the Vestfjord. Her boiler room was flooded and she was holed forward. The destroyer Eskimo towed her to Skjelfjord where an advanced base had been improvised. Despite air attacks, temporary repairs were made and she was towed home a month later. Penelope was holed both forward and aft by near-misses during air attacks on Malta in March 1942. While in the island, she was docked and repaired at the Malta Dry Docks. Day after day she was attacked by German aircraft and the crew worked to fix a myriad of shrapnel holes, so many that she was nicknamed HMS Pepperpot; when these had been plugged with long pieces of wood, HMS Porcupine. Further service in the Mediterranean saw her bombed and mined several times. On 18 February 1944, Penelope, was leaving Naples when she was torpedoed by the German submarine U-410. A torpedo struck her in the after engine room and was followed sixteen minutes later by another torpedo that hit in the after boiler room, causing her immediate sinking; 417 of the crew, including the captain, went down with the ship I plan to try to replicate the brown and white camouflage used in 1940 during her stay in Skjelfjord . This was an improvised scheme to try and match the colours of the snowy mountains surrounding the fjord. The colour balance was changed over time with the brown elements increasing to reflect the snow melting. That does give me some license to depart from a strict copy of the layout depicted with the kit. There is some controversy and little pictorial evidence of this paint scheme but the ships log attests to it and confirms that it was brown and whit and not just a simple overpaint of brown onto the light grey hull and superstructures. The exact colour of brown is undetermined so will be my choice. My goals for the model are to replicate the Skjelfjord paint scheme, install my first set of wooden decks, use the metal gun barrels (another first) and try to use as much PE as I think enhances the model and remains below my fear limit. A stretch goal is to try a Norwegian fjord diorama. I plan a waterline model. The Flyhawk box contains a nice print of the box top image with some brief notes about the ship on the back. Instructions for the basic kit assembly and the PE are on separate sheets and there are many sprues of beautifully moulded small parts. a metal weight is provided to and some substance to the model. Parts for a Walrus and a Seafox aircraft are provided. The Seafox is the correct choice for 1940. My helper will provide company and make sure there is a liberal supply of long cat hairs to add character to the model. This will probably be a slow build as I think through the sequence of build and paint and the appropriate points to add PE and the wooden decks. The wooden decks do come with masks which I think will give me some choices I hope this log will help me at my best efforts. I would be grateful for comments from the many experts and I hope this provides some entertainment Thanks Alan
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Hello everyone. This is my first build thread and only the third wooden ship model I've built over the last 40 years (retired now). Currently I'm still reading the instructions and sail plan and yet to purchase tools except for a medium duty knife and pinvise. If you look closely at the body lines you may notice previously erased lines. This had to be done to correctly position the propeller boss area onto more of the keel area. Any advise and opinions are welcomed as although it may be I've bitten off a little more than I can chew, I won't give up the ship. Hope to hear from you and looking forward to my next progress post.- 122 replies
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Hello Some time ago I started building Sao Gabriel based on the model in the museum in Lisbon. I do not have exact plans, but based on photos, dimensions and proportions of this type of vessels I managed to design a ship quite similar to the original. The progress in the construction is enough to show the first photos. The hull frames were made of 1 mm thick cardboard. I have planned three layers of planking: the first vertical layer, which stabilizes the frames, the second longitudinal one on the cardboard 0.5 mm and the third one in color as the final planks. After gluing the first layer, I added some of the decks and evened the entire hull with sandpaper to remove adhesive residues and greater inaccuracies. On these parts you can see lines according to which I will glue the next layer. Before sticking the next decks, I had to make a few details, which would later be very difficult to access. Then I glued the second layer, so far only to the level of the main deck and then I built a part of the forecastle. The construction of forecastle... Then, step by step, I added the next strips of the second layer and the next level in the forecastle. Because the model has a lot of windows in the stern part, I created some rooms there. Unfortunately, there are not many sources describing rooms in sailing ships from this period, so this is only my imagination. Now I could "lock" the whole with the upper decks. Before gluing the last layer, the whole hull was covered with wood glue, which made it stiffer. I smoothed the whole with sandpaper and started gluing the last layer. Each strip is two boards with a dividing line marked with a blunt needle. Visible white gaps will be covered with wales, so it will look OK. Best Tomek- 14 replies
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Hi All, This is my first proper wooden boat build, I say proper because some time ago I began building the Bounty from those magazines that came every week (you may be familiar with them) and though she turned out reasonable enough (I'm about 80% complete, just the Rigging to finish) the instructions (there was no 'plan', just text with photos) left a lot to be desired and makes even the simplest task awkward. Last Summer I came across MSW and having read and followed many build logs I decided to buy a proper kit, in fact I bought 3 over the past few months! Sherbourne, Convulsion & Ballahoo all at 1:64 and all Smallish Vessels (This is just a personal preference) Anyhoo, I have decided to do Ballahoo first, and possibly stagger the others over the coming months. (The first time I opened the box and was hit by that pleasant wood smell, reminded me of those old wooden pencil cases from school Oh! and it was great to unfold 'actual' plans too!) Right lets begin.. Whilst the Keel and Bulkheads were still in their 'Matrix' (or whatever the wooden surround is called) I oriented the Matrix to the appropriate instruction sheet (in the Booklet) and numbered each piece, as some of those bulkheads may end up in the wrong slots on the Plywood Keel (am sure it would be easy to spot, but why take the chance) I then removed the Ply Keel and all the Bulkheads using a Jewellers Saw (tried using a craft knife but ended up having to apply pressure, which didn't sound like a great idea) All items once freed got a light sanding and were then 'Dry' Fitted (see Photos) So Far So Good.. I shall cut a Rabbet and Bearding Line etc (as per Jim Smits and his Ballahoo) though the Plans/Instructions do not call for them, it seems logical when you take the Ply Keel dimensions and 2 layers of Planks into consideration. Should anyone wish to offer advice, please feel free to do so.. it all helps and I would be very grateful. Take Care Eamonn- 908 replies
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I had a build log on the now apparently defunct "HMS Victory Modeller's Knowledge Repository..." by Pete Coleman, but all this is gone now. I thought I'd just show a handful of progress shots, and the completed project. I never could have built her like she came out without that web site; it's a shame about it. For any readers contemplating a build, know that there are now available seven sheets of brass etch to enhance the kit. Everything from accurate shroud chains to nice stanchions to trigger locks for the cannon. They are superlative, although I only ordered two as this was my first model in decades and I had never seen brass etch to that point in time. You can find the brass etch here: http://www.dafinismus.de/plates_en#anker2 Never served thread before. After reading about serving machines I made one out of my old meccano. Here are the first served shrouds around the foremast head. The deadeye strops are brass etch. I later changed the jeer block lashings to natural colour, just to make them jump. I bought this kit in the early 80's. The decals crumbled to bits when I wet them, so I ordered adhesive vinyl lettering for the figurehead. I painted the false panels blue instead of black because I liked the look with all the other blue trim. The brass etch binnacle, with (barely visible) lantern and compasses. Home-made post and rails at the poop deck ladders. Syren 2mm blocks on the cannon tackle. Larger brass rod belaying pins so my big clumsy hands could tie off to them. Notice the brass etch boarding pikes on the mainmast. Hammock netting from HobbyLobby, on brass etch stanchions. Added brass handrails down the main companionway ladder. First look at masts plunked in dry assembled. Looking like a ship! Lower shrouds complete. Psychedelic mizzen ratline guide from cereal box. Why not the blank side, you ask? I have no idea now. Home-made topsail yard parral. Nearly there! Decided to rig bowlines too, hitched to yards. Stream anchor lashed to port sheet anchor. Also made anchor buoys, lashed to foremast shrouds. Copied Blue Ensign's idea to make little Lord Nelson and Captain Hardy figures. Faces aren't very good but ok to naked eye. Had a cast acrylic case made for her, atop a cherry cabinet I made for the purpose. Sat three of the boats on the shelf to allow viewer to see down to the upper deck through the skid beams, but really you cannot see even the cannon rigging on quarterdeck. At least my eyes cannot. Print hung above is Geoff Hunt's "England Expects", depicting "Victory" among the British fleet approaching the combined fleet on the morning of Trafalgar.- 18 replies
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I tend to build ships that manufacturers don't build...and I wanted to build the Ferriera..the Portugues Barkenine of the CS. She was caught in a storm..and her cargo shifted and she nearly capsized..resulting in her dismasting of her main and top mizzen mast. She spent much of het time in coastal waters and back water ports. I chose to model her in these conditions. She was extremely under maintained and was in severe need of nerw paint and maintenance. -
Just in from eBay, just snagged this kit NIB for $59.00. I have been chomping at the bit for something like this since I started seeing these kind of builds on MSW. Been working on the Charles W Morgan for a while now. This is a perfect follow up to that build. Can’t wait to get started so I have set up both the CWM and the Whaleboat on the bench for multitasking, keeps things interesting. Actually, the detail of this kit will help with finishing touches on the CWM. Very impressed with this kit. It’s my first build of the larger scale 1/16th. I have been working with Vintage kits around 1/96 scale. Instruction “book” and detailed parts look really good. Hope I can do this kit justice, it will be a step up for me in terms of skill sets. The micro carpentry just got more refined. Wish me luck and patients. Latter... 😎- 92 replies
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Firstly I would like to thank you for the kind comments I recieved when I attempted a scratch build of a 50 gun ship. After 2 failed attempts I realised that my knowledge of boat building was nowhere near being close to succeeding though it was fun attempting it. It has also provided me with a lot of extra timber which, having read a lot of posts, should prove very useful. So now it is back to building a kit. At first sight the kit looks well organised and the plastic boxes will be very useful for the smaller bits and pieces. However on closer inspection this version only has the crude metal gun carriages which I am hoping to either make or buy as wooden ones. The deck planks at 5mm wide look way to wide for the scale but I have plenty of 4mm strips which look closer to scale despite only being 1mm different. I was pleased to see the gun port frames and lids are separate and I hope to have some open on the lower gun deck as I have 12 cannons already made up though not historically accurate. I also have several widths of 1mm mahogany which will allow for double planking of the hull. My previous completed ship kit was the Golden Hind by Mamoli and I found the 1.5mm lime wood planks hard enough to work with never mind 2mm thick mahogany. I have also noted that several people had trouble cutting out the gun ports and I plan to add extra balsa between the frames and improvise a small deck area under the ports to mount the extra guns. I hope this should also allow me to plank around the gun ports rather than cutting them out.- 67 replies
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Since other members have posted extensive build reports of this boat kit I will focus primarily on the choices I have made. The main issue of the kit is the scroll parts for the bow and stern which are far too thick. This is the solution I opted for : Some modifications to turn the model into a working rc one : I have also added some 1/24 figures (I will order or make some more in the future): I have finally finished the shields and now I'm going to tackle the oars (also a rather boring and repetitive job). I think that the oars should all have a different length (the midships ones should be shorter than those closer to the bow and stern), although BB do not refer to this in their instructions. Regards, Arjan- 15 replies
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hello this work is dedicated to the memory of my loving mother, who passed away on june 2021. the original plans do not have a cabin, so added one. -
I bought this kit a few months ago from HobbyTown, not knowing a thing about this hobby, and got a few tools I thought I would need. I’ve used them all so far, and gathered many more tools. Two boat kits later, I feel experienced enough to tackle this ship. The instructions on CD are mainly visual, but it’s gotten me through so far. I may be missing a couple timbers, but thankfully it seems all the hardware is here. I had intended to build the Bounty Launch from Model Shipways next, but I ran into trouble early into that kit. By comparison, this kit has been very easy. I find working with nails much easier than trying to glue all those planks. As before, I’ve had a little trouble tidying up the stern and the bow, but I am gratified to learn that I am improving. The fully planked hull. On one side of the hull I used perfectly sanded and beveled planks to join up the center. But on this side I just used scraps of wood, dust, and glue to fill it in, then sanded it down to shape. This is where I am at present, with the gunwales and transom installed. I have begun veneering the hull, and hope to hang the rudder sometime this weekend. I am about a week into this project, I think it will take me another week to build the railing and deck furniture, and another week to do rigging and sails. It’s coming together much faster than I anticipated! Let me know your thoughts. -
IJN Akitsushima Seaplane Tender with added aftermarket details, 1:700 scale.- 125 replies
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I received the kit and paint set yesterday! I had downloaded and read the manual upon ordering and so began to assemble the central spine this morning with the feeling that I understood these steps. I glued the center pieces to the starboard spine using the supplied spacers. Even so, I ended up with misalignment at the top of the spine and on both walls of the bulkhead frame slots. Should have done this under magnification. I did a little surgery and sanding at the top of the spine, and will defer refining the slots until placing the bulkhead frames. Since the profile of the spine is preserved with char present, I don't think there will be a problem resulting directly from this misalignment. Will be more careful with the other side of the spine. I then freed the centerboard and cleaned and rounded edges. The next step is to form the brass operator rod for an adjustable centerboard, if this is a desired feature.- 51 replies
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I saw this online and just had to get it, a beautiful little kit that has the best packaging I’ve ever seen.- 53 replies
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I have already pre ordered this new model kit from Vanguard Models which is due to be released tomorrow. I plan to take my time with this build and it will start as a low priority side project whilst I complete by current project (Robert E Lee Paddlewheel Steamboat). I will start the build log in earnest after receipt of the kit. The build log of the prototype build by James Hatch was very informative and made the decision the buy this kit very easy. Also I was very impressed with Chris Watton's design, quality of materials and the standard of the build manual and plans with Speedy and I believe he has gone to another level with this kit.- 384 replies
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Well, here we are back at it. I decided to skip doing a turn on a card model and instead roll with the wood momentum and go straight to Wütender Hund (hereafter referred to as "WH"). I won't do an unboxing here, as I did a complete review of this kit in the reviews section. It is the first wood offering from the Polish firm of Shipyard, who are well-known for their excellent line of tallship card models. Clare Hess is currently working on a very similar cog model, also from Shipyard -- although its name is different, it is more or less the card version of this kit. So, I didn't make very much progress on Day 1, getting only as far as removing the longitudinal profile former and gluing up the parts that form a false keel. I noticed after the glue had already set that one of the parts is slightly misaligned, so I may have to debond that part and reposition it. One thing to watch out for on Polish kits is that left and right parts are marked L and P, not L and R. L does in fact indicate left, same as in English; to remember that P is right, I always think of it as the Greek letter rho, then it makes perfect sense. As you can see, the box is quite large -- too big for my modeling area. And the exciting work of Day 1. The cutting mat is a little less than 12" wide, so you have an idea of how big the finished model will be. TTFN!- 179 replies
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The last production of Gemma 1863 is nearing completion, but due to the limited space at home, which is occupied by a large number of tools, it will be difficult to store when finished; So stop the rigging for a moment and start work on a new theme, Young America 1853. This is also one of the five all in house sailboats I plan to build in the future; I only bought the first two copies of this book, and appreciate that the author's good subject matter can be shared with you, hopefully through my craft, to recreate the brilliance of the original work.Thank you for your attention，Also wish to give positive advice。 -
Started a new project: a "Galway Hooker." Evidently, these boats have been numerous in Ireland since the early 19th century, and are still being built today. In the past they were working boats, used for fishing and transporting cargo along the coasts of western Ireland. Today's boats are mostly used for pleasure and racing. The hookers range in size from around 20 to 44 feet (6 to 14 meters), and are broken into four classes, based on size or rigging. There are a lot of information on the internet about Galway Hookers, including plans, drawings, and photos. My model will be a fictional 26-foot (8-meter) boat from the late 19th century of the "gléoiteog" class. Gléoiteogs appear to have been the "real workhorses" of the era because their smaller size made them more affordable (Smylie, Mike. Traditional Fishing Boats of Britain & Ireland. Kindle ed., Amberley Publishing, 2012). Gléoiteogs generally appear to be "open" boats (i.e. no deck), although they sometimes appear with short partial decks (more like shelves) fore and/or aft. Even the larger classes only had half-decks, from the mast forward. I plan to have a short fore deck. The big construction challenge for me will be making a boat that is mostly "open." In 1/48 scale, that is only about 6.5 inches (165mm) long. Model construction began with the keel, made from 1/16 inch (1.6mm) basswood sheet. I added notches for placement of bulkheads later. The bulkheads were sawn from thin (2mm?) basswood plywood and attached in the notches with CA glue. Braces between the bulkheads were added later. Everything was aligned by the "eyeball" method, which relies on a lot of luck... -
Gdov-boat. Fishing and transport vessel from Lake Peipsi. They were built in the city of Gdov, where the name came from. A local traditional sailing and rowing vessel for fishing and work. The length is about 7 ... 8 meters. Late 19th century... late 20th century. Since the 40s, an engine has been installed. The boats had quite a busy life. I have an article about their history from the 19th century. I can post it here. But it is useless for most people, since it is not in English.
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