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Found 3 results

  1. Greetings all, as a winter project I decided I would like to build the George W Washburn. For a number of reasons: · I liked the look of it · Wooden construction with plank-on-frame hull · Good size and within budget · Build logs on MSW to refer to On opening the box, I was quite impressed with the contents of the kit. The Instruction Booklet is 56 pages long and there is a separate pack of drawings to go with it. There is basswood for the structure, balsa for the planking and some plastic parts. The quality of the wood seems to be good. It is my first plank-on-frame boat since I scratch built a Police Launch in the 1980’s so class myself as a beginner. There is a comment in one of the Forums that ‘single’ p-o-f is for the more experienced builder as there is no second layer to cover up the faults of the first. No pressure then, however the instructions for the Dumas Kit were more encouraging. It says the model was designed to make its building as fool proof as possible. We shall see! The length of the model is a bit of a puzzle. From the keel parts I estimate the length of the finished model to be 800mm (31.5”), this agrees with the 1:1 scale plan drawing supplied. But the box lid gives it as 30” (762mm). On searching for the length of the actual tug boat I could only find one source which gave it as 140’. Divide this by 48 and you get 35”. The existing Build Logs were published by lb0190 in 2013 and MarkBseau in 2014. I shall try to spot if Dumas have made any changes to the kit since then. As per the instructions I made the stand as the first task. Although not needed until much later it was a chance to try out the adhesives. I am not much of a fan of CA glue, I shall mostly be using a waterproof Aliphatic Wood Glue and 2 Part Epoxy (Araldite). For some weird reason I used the wrong strip wood for the stand, 1/8 x 1/4 instead of the correct 1/4 x 1/2. Not a good start. So, I made two new ends and built it again. 1. The Keel No problems assembling the keel except that the bass wood strip which formed the basis of the keel was oversize, it was too thick by just over 1/32” thus preventing the frames from being fitted. Rather than plane down the thickness to suit the frames I purchased a new piece of strip 6 x 15mm and planed that down to 6 x 12.7mm. For the prop shaft, the Material List gives the tube as 5/16” diameter and length 5-3/8” and the shaft as length 8-13/16”. This means that there is 3-1/2” of unsupported shaft, probably not a problem but not a technique that I would usually follow. In the UK most suppliers stock complete assemblies with the shaft having about 15mm threaded protrusion at each end of the tube. The tube would be fitted with bushes at each end to support the shaft and possibly come with the option of an oiler tube. I usually fit an oiler tube with oil being used instead of grease. Though it is important not to have oil in the prop shaft when commencing sailing as this can result in a slick on top of the water. So, having finished sailing I would prop up the bow and ‘inject’ oil using a lever action oil can. Any water in the prop shaft gets ejected, I then leave the boat propped up for a few days until no more oil is seen around the end of the shaft. Thus the tube is clean on the inside and the bushes lubricated. I purchased an 8” assembly with M4 threads at each end. For the oiler I cut a piece of brass tube and soft soldered it to the prop tube with a 3mm hole through to the shaft. This can be seen in the photo. 2. The Frames To follow.
  2. I've really hesitated to start a build log... At first it was simply because I'd started building without taking any photos for a while, so I figured it was just too late to start a log. But later, because of all the fantastic work I've seen in other builds - you folks are some real artists! - I'm embarrased to show my efforts. But I've browsed enough now to know that a build log is definitely the way to go, there is so much experience and help out there, it's silly to waste it. So I'll upload what photos I do have to this point on my first ship build, and hope that you guys can help me keep my head above water from here on. Or actually I will later tonight when I'm home. This is just a start while I'm eating lunch at the office...
  3. The George W. Washburn tugboat was launched in 1890 by the Cornell Steamboat Company to move barges and cargo like stones, sand, and bricks up and down the Hudson River between Albany and New York City. She was, during her early years, considered the fastest tug on the Hudson. Since she took on paying passengers, her appearance was kept up. It was said that a Cornell Steamboat could be notices from great distances by the yellow and black color of the smoke stacks. The George W Washburn and Cornell Steamboat Company are no longer around today. This is my first effort at building a model ship. Since I've retired, I felt in need of a hobby and looked back at my younger (much younger) years when I used to build plastic models and a RC aircraft. I remember I always enjoyed building more than flying and thought wood ship models would be challenging and longer project time. I picked the tug thinking it would be a good first build for someone new to shipbuilding and hoped it provided a number of lessons learned. At the time, not being aware of MSW and the tremendous amount of shared knowledge, I looked at the many ships available and simply picked one that appealed to me and looked reasonable for a newbie to start with. So here we go... This kit features laser-cut plank-on-frame construction. The size is: Length: 30" inches Beam: 5 1/2" inches and can be built as a static or RC model. I'll build it as RC capable but with the intent of simply displaying it.
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