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Found 4 results

  1. I am the proud owner of Toni's Introduction to Planking Kit #1 and, since I've got a little time off during the holidays, I decided to get started. I started by reading the instructions. (I've heard that enough times from Kurt to know to start there and it's mentioned in Toni's instructions. It's good advice and I found, even reading through them, I made at least one error early on.) I mounted the plans to a piece of foam board, as instructed. Then I laid out the keel, keelson, stem components, deadwood and sternpost on the sheet to understand how they all fit together. Next step is to cut the rabbet. I'll confess I read this section multiple times and Toni's posts here on MSW, which are slightly different from the instruction manual I have. I'm hoping I got this part right. Toni says, "Measure the thickness of your planking. On this model I used 1/32" basswood which actually measured 0.43" thick." I had to think about that for a minute. 1/32" is 0.03125", quite a ways from 0.43". Then I measured the planking material in the kit: I think this is a combination typo and a little dyslexia. The instruction manual should say 0.034" instead of 0.43". Doesn't matter. I figured it out and understand the point. You need that measurement to transfer it to the keel components, which I did. I did a little experimentation to make sure I drew an accurate line on those components. I set my compass, drew a line on some scrap paper and then measured it with the caliper. I had to do that a few times to adjust the compass properly, but it paid off. I drew lines on both the outboard and top edges. (This is something Toni didn't say to do, but it made sense to me. It the angle is supposed to be 45°, then you need to know both sides of the right triangle to get the hypotenuse right ... right? I have just a couple of observations. First, scraping the char off the components is a necessary task, I know, but I would urge people to take their time with it. I could have used power tools to do this or gone after it with some really coarse sandpaper, but I used the back of an old X-Acto blade as a scraper. It worked great and I didn't risk damaging the components. It took a little longer than other methods, but I think it was a good call. For cutting the rabbet, again, I could have used power tools for that. I decided not to and I'm glad I did. (Toni designed this kit to be done by people without access to all that stuff, so it's not necessary.) I used the X-Acto blade again and then some sanding sticks to finish it off. That worked very well and, although it took a while, the results were better than I think I could have gotten with power tools. Small planes would have worked too. I tried to use mine, but found they were a little too aggressive and thought if I used them I might inadvertently take off more wood than I wanted to. And no project would be complete without some errors. Even though the instructions are very clear about how far aft to go with the keel rabbet -- Figure 10 shows how far to carve it -- I still carved it all the way aft. I corrected that right away by gluing in some scrap wood and returning the keel to a square profile. Best thing about a wooden ship model: there's nothing you can't fix. Here's the final product. Now on to the frames. Per the instructions, "the slots on the keelson were laser cut approximately 1/16" too shallow to help prevent breakage of the basswood keelson while making the rabbet." So I need to deepen them that 1/16" which will bring the distance between the bottom of the frame and the rabbet to about 1/16". Off to the next step! Dan
  2. Introduction: Welcome to my Build Log on the my "commission" build of a Westerly Discus 33. The Westerly Discus is a popular cruising yacht design of the late 1980's with hundreds being built by Westerly Marine Construction of Hampshire (UK) until liquidation in early 2000. The Discus 33 was designed by John Laurent-Giles, who drew two design iterations, sloop rigged, and ketch rigged, both with either a fin keel or bilge keels. For more information on the Discus 33, follow the links below: http://www.yachtsnet.co.uk/archives/westerly-discus/westerly-discus.htm http://www.westerly-owners.co.uk/westerlywiki/index.php?title=Discus Why call this a "commission"? This is strictly not a commission as I will not be paid for this build, but my family will be giving this to my Grandfather for his 80th Birthday in January 2017, as he is in the process of selling his yacht Giselle due to ill health. Although the deadline is still 10 months away, I will be trail-blazing to some extent, and will in theory be building this as a 3D model in AutoCAD 2014/2016 and DelftShip (free), exporting the 3D model as an .STL file and then getting it 3D Printed. As this is a gift, the quality of the finish has to be on point, so if the 3D Printing is not up to scratch I will be producing a Laser Cut Plank on Bulkhead model instead. At this point, I will use Delftship to model the hull to the highest accuracy and then produce a cutting plan for all bulkheads, and planks. The final deliverable will be as follows: Half Hull - Westerly Discus 33 Sloop with Bilge Keels, mounted of decorative board Build Log - Bound Book - contents comprised of 3D model development photo's, 3D Printed Model Building, Fairing, Painting and Finishing. Now, the Legal aspect of this build-log. I have purchased the AutoCAD** drawings from the Laurent-Giles Archive, and have been given express permission to build ONE and ONE ONLY half hull model. I am free to manipulate the AutoCAD files as I require to produce a 3D model of the yacht, on the basis that the drawings and resultant 3D model are used to build one model as a gift or for personal use, and are not to be replicated in any way. ** The AutoCAD file that has been purchased is a rework of the original hand-drawn line drawings. This drawing shows all the Waterlines, Shearlines, Buttocks, Keel & Rudder Profiles, Stations, Coahroof Profiles, and the Mast Position. I would have been happy doing this, but this has saved me countless hours on getting the line drawings in AutoCAD from paper copies of the drawings. With this, I'd like to thank Barry van Geffen of Laurent-Giles Archive for producing excellent quality CAD drawings for me to use in the production of this model for my Grandfather. Build Information: The model will follow the basic principles of building a Half Hull model. The Starboard side of the hull will be built up from the plans, in to a 3D model where I will commission a local 3D Printing Company to print the model in three sections, Bow, Midships, and Stern. This will be because of size limitations for printing. At a scale of 1:24, the model will be 430mm in length, and have a maximum beam of nearly 100mm. The Bow, Midships, and Stern pieces will be printed as 5-Sided Cube, with bolt holes for alignment, and finally bolted together with an M8/M10 bolt with a corresponding nut epoxied in to place. If the epoxy is strong enough for the task, then I might just epoxy the pieces together? These decisions are to come in due course. Finally, the model will be faired and painted to match my Grandfathers yacht. The fittings such as winches, mast, boom, kicker, blocks, stanchions, and deck hatches will either be scratch built or bought from a reputable source. I will post Part One of the Build Log later on. Thanks, Jonny
  3. Greetings, This will be the build log of the Schooner Atlantic (Half Hull). Some background history: The Atlantic was built in 1903 by Townsend and Downey shipyard, and designed by William Gardner, for Wilson Marshall. The three-masted schooner was skippered by Charlie Barr and it set the record for fastest transatlantic passage by a monohull in the 1905 Kaiser's Cup race. The record remained unbroken for nearly 100 years. Trans-Atlantic sailing record: In 1905, Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany proposed a race across the North Atlantic and put forward a solid gold cup to be presented to the winner. Eleven boats including the Kaiser's yacht Hamburg and the schooner Atlantic skippered by Charlie Barr took part. The competitors encountered strong winds and gales which ensured a fast passage time and all eleven boats finished the race. Atlantic won, breaking the existing record with a time of 12 days, 4 hours, 1 minute and 19 seconds. The record stood for 75 years until broken by Eric Tabarly sailing the trimaran Paul Ricard. However Atlantic's monohull record stood for nearly 100 years until was broken in 1997 by the yacht Nicorette completing the crossing in 11 days 13 hours 22 minutes. Passing of a legend: Atlantic deteriorated and sank at the dock in Norfolk, Virginia. In 1982, the wreckage was removed for the installation of a floating dry dock at Metro Machine Shipyard. Tim
  4. Greetings, Along with building BlueJacket's 80' Elco PT Boat, I've decided to start on the Endeavour Half Hull by BlueJacket. She was the British Challenger in the 1934 America's Cup. The kit is as a 'Bread and Butter' build... Cheers, Tim

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