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Found 5 results

  1. Good Evening All This is not the most positive way to start a build log but I guess it was to be expected for a newbie like myself. So I have finally received my HMS Pegasus from Amati. The box is barely open and I already have problems. This would be a great point to recommend a build log or other resource for this build. I have found many but Im struggling on that covers the finer details that a rookie like myself needs. The instructions make no reference to a rabbet or bearding line, I have however come across reference to this in virtually every single build log that I have read on the vessel. My extreme lack of experience has lead me to several questions regarding these two subjects. 1. Rabbet line: - Am I correct in saying that they should be cut from the very bow to the very stern(excluding the vertical portion of the stern as indicated between the red arrows) -Should this line be cut 1.5mm "tall" and 1.25mm "deep" on either side of the false keel? -Do I need to sand the true keel down from 5mm to 2.5mm to match the width of the false keel after being cut down for the rabbet line?(this doesn's seem to make a hue amount of sense but it seems like this is what some people have done on some of the photos that I have seen. 2. Bearding line: - how do I determine where to draw the bearding line? - should the false keel be tapered evenly from the bearding line down to the rabbet line? - the instructions say "the stern area of the false keel to which the rudder post will be glued is to be sanded to roughly half the original width" does this essentially mean that I should sand from the bearding line to the vertical portion of the stern as well as the rabbet line(so that it tapers to the edge of the keel both vertically and horizontally?) Thanks a million in advance!
  2. Hi everyone - I am relatively new to ship building and have run into a problem/question. I am building Artesania Latina HMS Bounty Jolly Boat and am confused how to incorporate the Keel. I've attached some pictures of my progress. I have already decided that I will do a second layer of planking and therefore decided to use some putty to fill in some gaps in the planking rather than additional small pieces of wood. As I was sanding down the bow, I decided to test the fit of the keel piece and noticed that the inner curve of the keel does not match the curve of the hull-- at all! Since I already was going to second plank, should i fill this huge gap with putty? should I do something else? I am really confused and would love some guidance. Thanks, Erin
  3. Hi All, This is my first Scratch Build Log on MSW. I am currently in the closing stages of my Caldercraft/Jokita HM Mortar Vessel Convulsion build, and needed a break from the tiny bits of the build, so I started this build. Background: Since I was a kid, I've been building, modifying, tweeking, and sailing on sailing boats, from Optimist dinghies to large Swan 65's, but my real ambition in life is to build a sailing boat for myself. About 3 years ago I decided that I would build the Vagabond Keel Sloop designed by the Naval Architect Edwin Monk. Vagabond measures 19'-6" (6.00 metres), and the study plans were available in a book called "How to Build Wooden Boats - With 16 Small-Boat Designs", written by Edwin Monk. The design is for a hard chine hull shape, making it easy to build for the novice boat builder, but my intention for my potential full scale build was to soften up the chines, and make her hull slightly easier on the eyes, and quicker on the water. So why build this model? Firstly, it's is to see what the hull form looks like in reality. I can just about read hull drawings, and understand the sheer lines and profiles, but I'm not a boat builder or Naval Architect, so it's not as simple as reading the lines and putting two and two together. Secondly, I spoke with my mother on Sunday night. She said she wanted me to build her a "little boat" that she "could put on her mantle piece". No matter how many times you say "I don't have the space for another model build", or "I don't have enough materials", you can not say "no" to your mother! So I had a think, and thought about my aspirations with Vagabond a few years earlier, and decided to do it! I decided to build Vagabond as it seemed like an easy build, with a simple rig, and looks pretty! Meets all the criteria! Build Process: The plans are drawn (or have been redrawn) at a scale of 1:20, so I directly transferred the dimensions from the study plan to the model. Having study plans readily available in the book, and having three strips of 1/8 inch Balsa (3mm Think), I started by tracing over the outline of the keel and main bulkheads, four in total, and doubled them up to make them 1/4 inch thick. Using some square stock balsa I had remaining from my Convulsion build, I used that to square up the bulkheads and attach the deck (1/8th Balsa) to the keel. Because this boat is designed with fairly agressive chines (it was designed in the 50's or 60's, so the chines haven't been 'optimised' like modern day performance yachts), I rounded off the corners of the chines and using the study plans measured out the planks on both sides. I ran the planks along the bulkheads and trimmed them to suit, pinning and gluing them down when happy. To give additional strength to the balsa, I squeezed a blob of PVA glue on to the planks, and ran it along all the seams between balsa planks. After the PVA glue had 24 hours to dry, I covered the whole hull in wood filler, to smooth out any areas that may be dipping, and left out any raised areas. I've not taken any photo's at this point as it is has been a "spur of the moment" build, it's only now that I've decided to start a build log. Next Stage of Build: So, my next objectives on the build are to sand the hull smooth, and then plank the hull with the remaining Walnut strips from my Convulsion and President builds. The waterline will be painted white, and the topsides either varnished or oiled. The cockpit and deck will be painted white, and the cockpit coamings and dog house will be planked in walnut as well. I am employing my wonderful Admiral to make sails, as she is a wizard with the needle and thread! I will also build Pushpits and Pullpits from brass for the bow and stern. This is will be the first time I will have soldered brass since Secondary School, so I may be taking a few attempts with this aspect of the build. I also have a fairly limited time scale to complete this build, as my mum wants the model before she goes away on holiday for a few weeks in the middle of April. I'm not sure if I can meet this deadline, but I certainly will try. I will be posting photo's of the build soon. Cheers, Jonny
  4. This has been bugging me for a while, and I think I am not alone. Many of us has two or more kits waiting in wings. One thing I am concerned over is the waiting time for the keel and bulkheads to be assembled and start warping in our boxes. Would it be bad to have them assembled with supporting strings to keep everything aligned until it's time to continue the build? I hate to see good kits going warped (bad) even before started. Background to this question is that a while back I went through my upcoming build of MS Bluenose, noticing the laser cut piece for the keel was badly warped, I now have a new straight one in the box but don't want to bother ME again with new parts. Any inputs in this matter are valuable. Thank you
  5. I have found in several instructions especially from AL that you should plank the hull before adding the keel to the false keel. Wonder if it isn't better to add it before planking, this in order to get the correct rabbet line? Anyone who knows better? Thank you

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