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Found 28 results

  1. Greetings everyone, This is my very first build, but I can tell I am hooked. I'm sure this will be the first of many. As of this posting, we are well underway: false keel and bulkhead framing first layer hull planking in boxwood second layer hull planking in walnut deck planking with tanganyka--a few flaws here, but I think these will be hidden by the inside wale planking It's time to cut the canon portholes--which makes me pretty nervous. I also have some questions about the inside wale planking that I will post to the group. So far, Im pleased with the kit and my work, and the images of the walnut on the hull make it look even better, I think.
  2. i start this ship at January 18, 2010 still in progress of Building i belive it took time more than the real on i restart working after year and half of stoping it i just finish all the cooper things and next week i will start to finish all the plank and gun port hope not taking long time to finish
  3. So here I start another Build Log... This being my 3rd wooden model ship started, and only one being completed (the first perhaps a little bit over my head), I purchased this model kit on Ebay for a very good price about 20 months ago and actually only began this kit in the late fall last year. At first I was not going to do a build log as I always find my time limited with regards to posting progress and updates but given the lack of build logs for this particular Mamoli kit (another one, the first on this forum, just recently started this last month), I thought I would start one. I have always found the age of Exploration of the most interest, and especially with regards to Christopher Columbus... and that being said here is the token picture of the opened box.
  4. Hello all. Today i am starting a new adventure. I was long thinking which ship chose to build and decided to go with a frigate, it will be third build. Mamoli - La Gloire 1778. This ship is a classic frigate that belonged to the French Navy at the end of the XVIII century. The vessel was equipped with 26 12-pound guns on the battery deck, in addition to 4 6-pound guns, and 4 carronades of the main deck. La Gloire was planned by the shipbuilding engineer Guignace, and was launched at St.Malo in 1778. This model is a reproduction, scale 1:90, of the ship during the first year of navigation, with the bottom painted white. One year later, in June 1779, like with many other ships, the submerged part of the hull was sheathed with copper plates to protect it from corrosion. Kit is double plank-on bulkhead, with pre-cut wooden parts of walnut, mahogany, lime, beech, boxwood and tanganyka. Pre-finished fittings include wooden ship's boat, blocks, deadeyes and gratings, gilded metal for transom ornamentation and figurehead, brass nails and belaying pins, and finely cast white metal for the gun port frames. The 34 guns of the original ship are reproduced in burnished metal. Colorful flags, four sizes of rigging, plans and instructions are included as well. Intermediate Level Mamoli Kit No. MV34W Length 33"/Height 25"/Scale 1:90 Photos of the box and inside the box.
  5. Hi guys. Well this is my first build log. I've always been a lover of history and especially the age of sail. One day the idea dawned on me that I could stoke my imagination and get a lot of enjoyment out building models of these beautiful vessels. That led me to start researching a good kit for me to get started on. I chose the bounty by mamoli because it rated at intermediate to beginner, has a fascinating history and hopefully will be a great learning curve and stepping stone towards working on bigger first rate models in the future. I don't know anyone in person who also has worked on model sail ships, so finding the cofidence to proceed with the various steps in my build so far has been nerve wrecking without being able to talk to someone about what I'm doing or getting critiqued on my progress. I suppose at this stage I should mention that I am about 10 weeks into my build. And have been inspired by some of the nice build logs on here to create my own. Up until now I haven't taken many photos at all. But that will change. I would greatly appreciate anyone's constructive criticisms or helpful tips for my model. I'm somewhat of a perfectionist and look forward to being able to learn as much as possible so I can my Bounty as close to perfection that my abilities will allow.
  6. Hello, this is my galleon ship construction. It is my second ship build. I will share photos of the build, hope you will like. Friesland The highly ornate Friesland dates from about 1663, when she was launched as part of the fleet of the "Seven Provinces" of the Netherlands. As part of the allied Aglo-French fleet, she took part in the Battle of Solobay in 1672. Mamoli's double plank-on-bulkhead kit, based on reliable Dutch documentation, features 80 turned brass cannon and over 50 gilded metal ornaments. The model is a magnificent replica, complete with authentic deck detail. Cast zinc frames ensure proper squaring and alignment of gun ports, while remaining hidden from view. Silk-screened flags and cotton rigging line reflect the rig plan of the original. Thirteen sheets of plans and step-by-step instructions allow you to build an extraordinary showpiece. Advanced Level Mamoli Kit No. MV24 Length 31"/Height 28"/Scale 1:75 Few photos of the box and inside the box.
  7. 1:90 La Gloire - 1778 - French 34 gun Frigate - Dusek Ship Kits - MV34 Company: Dusek Ship Kits Kit No: MV34 Retail Price: EUR 349.- Available here: Dusek Ship Kits Description Classic frigate, belonging to the French Navy at the end of the XVlll century, Equipped with 26 12-oound guns on the battery deck, besides 4 6-pound guns and 4 carronades on the main deck. La Gloire was planned by the shipbuilding engineer, Guignace, and was launched at St, Malo in 1778, The model is the reproduction, scale 1:90, of the ship during the first year of navigation, with the bottom painted white. One year later, in June 1779, like with many other ships, the submerged part of the hull was sheathed with copper plates to protect it from corrosion. Technical data Scale: 1:90, Length: 840 mm Height: 635mm The kit 6 x Sheets of plans (DIN A2, 420 x 594 mm, 16.5 x 23.4 inches) 12 x Sheets of instructions in English, French, German and Italian (DIN A3, 297 x 420 mm, 11.7 x 16.5 x 12 inches) 2 x Sheet of model size 1:1 plan 12 sheets of lasercut wood (plywood and walnut) Various dowels for masts and yards Various strips of wood 1 x Photoetched brass parts Various cast Brittania metal parts in high quality Various Rope and all needed small parts (blocks, Pole, Chains, Fittings etc.) Flags All parts of the kit are stored safely and tidily in the box. Let's look deeper at this kit and start with the perfectly lasered plywood And we go on with the other lasered parts. There is one two layered sheet of photoetch parts A nice collection of wood For the masts and yards we get very nice dowels. There are also some pear strips for the build. The quality of the wood is excellent! More wood (see the perfect quality!) Let's check the smaller parts of this nice kit. The Flags Paperwork. Essential for ever good kit are the instructions and plans. As usually for Dusek you get the instruction in different languages. In this kit they are english, french, german and italian. The instructions are well done and an intermediate Modeller should have no problem at all. Last but not least there are two big sheets showing the modell in 1:1. Conclusion In 2016 Daniel Dusek bought all rights for producing of all Mamoli and MiniMamoli kits. Since then the kits are released in batches. So this really nice kit is available again for the passionate builder. The plans and instructions have not yet been revised by Daniel Dusek, but they do fulfil their task well and leave few to no questions unanswered, the plans are drawn in detail and printed in a great way. The woods are of very good quality, as are the metal cast parts. All parts are made of high-quality materials and you can see the attention to detail in this Dusek kit as well. Dusek Ship Kits currently lists this model for €349, and I think that represents really good value for money for this nice kit. Impression of the build model My sincere thanks go to Daniel Dusek for sending this kit for review here on Model Ship World. To buy, go to your favorite Dusek dealer or directly to http://www.dusekshipkits.com
  8. Greetings all! My first post is to display the find that brought me here. I found this kit in a thrift store down the street. They wanted $100 for it, but gave me a military discount! I was thrilled, since I have been to see the ship when I was on a business trip in Boston. It really made an impression on me. I enjoyed the museum. I learned about the time during a storm when the ship came loose from its lines and was swinging around on its remaining moorings. It swung into the modern steel warship moored next to it and did extreme damage to it, while taking only scratches itself. An amazing ship, undefeated in battle (even if it required her crew to man the boats and tow her out of the doldrums.) My background in making stuff is mixed. Plane models as a kid, home repair, car modifications, machining, and extensive gunsmithing. I have never done anything more detailed in wood than a pinewood derby car, but I'm ex-military, and believe I can follow a manual. Looks like everything is here. We'll see!
  9. The first big ship build I've undertaken and have been working on for awhile. This kit is from Dusek and was produced after they took over production from Mamoli after the fire at their factory in Italy. Dusek is in the Czech Republic. From seeing pictures of previous builds of the original kit, it looks as though Dusek changed/improved some of the materials used. The bulkheads and frame are of a different type of plywood, and the keel is now made of walnut. I've recently experienced good customer service from the company's owner Daniel. I had reached out on their website to see if I could get a replacement keel for the one I butchered attempting to carve a rabbet line in, and got a very fast response. Daniel sent me a new frame and the sheet that contained the parts for the keel that I received in about a week. I don't know if this is standard practice for them, but it was nice not to have to buy a whole other kit just to replace the keel. They are now producing a majority of Mamoli's original line of model ships.
  10. Hello again folks, After several moves from country to country during the last couple years, i finally settled with my Family in Germany and i decided to get back on track with my Revell Connie. I have a 2-year-old Boy now so need to prepare, 2 more years and he will help me with next projects However to my shock i found the original box damaged, masts broken, decks warped as from heat exposure, several pieces missing etc. only the Hull pieces have survived intact - this got me thinking about kit-bashing, semi-scratch-building her from wood around the existing Hull but for now i lack the tools for a complete scratch build, hence the decision to go with the Mamoli Cross-Section. I've got my hands on some Mamoli plans a few years ago and after calculating the cost of tools needed to build from scratch, i decided to order the kit from Dusek Ship Kits aware of the fact that a few parts will need to be replaced. So while waiting for UPS Delivery, here is the Overall plan: 1. Mast only to the Fighting Top with standing rigging and Ratlines - as she would look with rest of mast removed (also to reduce height of Display case) 2. Possibly Main Yard rigged too but i am thinking "prepared to be pulled up" 3. Rest of mast pieces lying in front in display case 4. Some sailors perhaps preparing to raise the Yard After looking through all the build logs, i found already what needs to be replaced: - Rigging Blocks (Caldercraft as i cant find Syren in Europe) - Pumps (no idea which manufacturer yet) - Cannonballs (Caldercraft - i got them for the Revell Connie originally) - RB Model Barrels - Mantua Buckets (at least the small ones) And propably many more things which will need to be added/Replaced. So, waiting for the Package i have purchased JD already as the Instructions say Cheers and hope to have a chance to finish this one.
  11. Build Packet Schooner from Mamoli Halifax kit Here we go again on another adventure. After building schooners of 1802, 1853, and downeast Schooners 1894, 1906 and 1921, I wanted to get back and learn about the design of the early schooners. I shall put together a brief posting with some of the references I have been reading. Today I just want to get the general introduction as to what I am building and why. I live in Maine and shall remain most interested in the maritime history of this region. I include all New England and maritime Canada as the region. I shall leave it to the true authors to record all the real back ground, and shall simply summarize a few points…….again from what I have read and seen to date. I always look forward to more research in this area and appreciate some tips already received through these logs. It is well recorded in Boothbay, Maine that starting in early 19th century 'Pinky' and similar schooners were being built . So, where I am going is to build a few known designs taking some liberties to improve my understanding of the evolution of the coasting schooners. I would like then to build some representative schooners that were built here. That starts with pre-Pinky and ends with the 10 four masters built in 1921. See my Charles Notman where I built it to be a prototype for sailing size models . It had a documented design I could use to learn. I chose the kit Halifax as a first build in this adventure because she represents several things of interest to me: · She was built I believe in Nova Scotia as a Packet in 1768.…Harold Hahn's book on Colonial Schooners gives a great history of her. · She was taken over by the British navy in 1770, which means there are very accurate drawings. I believe it should not be too difficult using common sense to reverse engineer and remove features that would only have been done for a navy vessel and I shall speak of that in the bashing process. Harold Hahn said if one goes to the actual admiralty drawings there are tick marks indicating what was to be changed in the lines. He then listed several items that he believes were added. · There is a fun Maine story that she sailed into Machias, Maine trying to recover stolen cannons . Unsuccessful, she hired a pilot to get back to sea. The naughty pilot reportedly steered her onto a reef and the ran away in the night…….She was lost to the US...wow score one for new England rebels. · She was a subject of the renown Harold Hahn. I was able to get plans of her as well as Challeur, a sister ship in the small British group in late 1770’s. This gives us accurate drawings of another boat a little bigger. Apparently there was a second Halifax commissioned by the British navy after the first one was lost in Machias, and some confusion that i plan to evade So what am I building? Each Christmas time I have fun on ebay as a flurry of models seem to come available and if you are diligent a good deal is in the offing. A few years ago, I bought the Mamoli kit, and it has been sitting on a shelf. So, as I continue to work more sparingly on Bluenose, I have started this kit. I am also bashing another kit of a plank on frame version of a similar schooner. i feel it is important to learn how to build the whole frame, so concurrent with this build, an unrecorded first attempt of plank on frame is also on the bench. I plan to use that partially built model as a partial framed out hull in a dock yard diorama, so it shall not have a build log or name. Working on it in parallel does help explain though the slow pace this build might take on this kit. I must also say I plan to ignore what I call the navy embellishments. So I shall take images from a few Harold Hahn diorama views to confirm what I believe to be pretty straight forward. Fishermen nor early 'packetmen' did not have great windows in the cabins, lions on the stem nor guns on the decks. Also as a yank and building a representative boat using the Halifax kit, I see no reason not to take liberty and declare I am in 1:48 scale. The kit as being metric is 1:50. Yes I have metric rulers!! I may change my mind later but what I am building is 53 feet on deck and not 55+. Again I will also need to change the sailing rig to represent the commercial Canadian build and not the British Navy redrawn sail plan with top square sails etc.. That change could be challenging, but it is my goal. lets start....Step one the frame So first of all I opened the kit and found myself amused by the way they [ mamoli ] do things. The drawings are exploded isometric views, the instructions are pretty basic and off you go. I bought a set of Harold Hahn plans and I go there for questions. I cleaned up the bulkheads and keelson assembly ready to put together. This model is small compared to my usual work, so I made up mini blocks to use to square up the bulk heads. Surprise. The interlocking under deck ties everything together. So without too much trouble we get the bulkheads on in the first day. I wonder how true they are?...we'll see Cheers
  12. I spent quite a bit of time learning how to read the Mamoli rigging plans. Since there were no explicit instructions on how to interpret the drawings I spent a great deal of time looking through them before I figured out their method. Once I did, it was pretty straight forward. I thought perhaps others might find this useful. Perhaps this is how all rigging plans are done. Since the Connie is my first kit, I have no reference. I also need to mention this kit was purchased in 1991 so it may have changed. However for what it is worth here is how my plans are interpretted. There are two tables on each rigging page. The first table is on the right and lists all the parts, this is standard on all the Mamoli pages. However the second table, placed directly to the left of the first left is only on the rigging pages. the tables are not really labeled or numbered but they are consistent on how they arrange them. The only difference is where they are placed on the plan. For this illustration I will show how to interpret the rigging on the Mizzen (part o552) circled on the drawing. Here is a copy of the appropriate section from the plans: This shows a rigging set running from the tip of one of the Mizzen booms to the cap just above the Main Mast's fighting top. First we need to see what the parts are for this rigging. The size of the line, the size of the blocks, etc. For this we turn to the right most table on the plans. This table is on all of the plans an lists the all the parts of the ship as well as the various sizes. In some cases, the part number might refer to a different page of the plans if the part was installed much earlier so you might have to refer back to another page of drawings. Here is a copy of the section in the table dealing with the rigging for this piece. We can see here that 0552 (o552 in the above drawing) is labeled Braccio (which means "Arm"), the second column tell us that the amount is the same as the above parts, which is 2, although you can't see that in this photo. More importantly, the second column from the right says 0,25, which means this is the 0.25mm line. So now we know the size of the line, let's see where it runs. The second table directly to the left of the parts list table contains the order a line runs by listing the part numbers in the order they go starting at the lines termination in the rigging and ending at the termination on the deck. The entry for 0552 shows 0552 D = 0554+055+0554+0556 (fig 10). This is chock full of valuable information. Ignore the pencil marks, that is how I track when I install a line. First the line will start at at part 0554. We can look on the first chart and see 0554 is a block (Bozello) that is made of walnut and is a single 4mm block (1x4). This also refers to a figure (fig. 10) for more information. This figure is shown below: This shows the manner the blocks are attached to the mast cap. If we want more information on the rings we can refer back to the first drawing of the rigging and see this part is 0553. Referring back to the first table we can see that part 0553 is a 3mm brass eye ring (Anello con Gambo = Ring with shank) the OTN refers to a table in the general instructions that shows it is made of brass. So after the two rings are installed on the cap, the block is added with the .25mm line attached to it. This then runs to the block 0555. The table tells us this is also a 1x4 walnut block that is attached to the end of the spar. The line then returns to 0554 and runs toward the deck. As a note here, if the line also went through the fighting top, that too would have been listed in the order the line ran through it. In this case it does not but goes directly from the block (0554) to part 0556, which table 1 informs us is a belaying pin (Caviglia). The termination point is shown not only in the table but also in the rigging diagram. The sheet also has a diagram showing the layout of the termination points when viewed from the rigging. From this we can see that 0556 is the third belaying pin aft in the 4 pin belaying rack located on the starboard side between the two fife rails. The port side has a matching set for the matching mirrored rigging set. So that is it. A further note on terminations, if a line terminates tied to a side shroud, the shroud grouping is noted and it is numbered from front to back. So the rigging drawing would show the shroud set from the side and give you the number it would be referred to as. This would look like the following: Any lines terminating on one of these shrouds will be labeled 16(x) with x being the number of the shroud from the bow. The following drawing shows how this shroud is referred to int he rigging drawing. So this shows the top line would terminate on shroud set 16 on the 6th shroud. The one below is marked to terminate on the 5th shroud. It is hard to read but you can see my pencil marks to the left of the number. So this is how the rigging plans work. I stopped working the lines from the top of the table down since they tended to number the lines from the bottom up. This meant that the top lines which normally run down the center of the ship, had to be fished through the other lines. However, other than that, I have ben following these diagrams pretty much as they are drawn. [ dia=core:attachments:202725]
  13. Hello fellow modelers. It's been an extremely long time since I got my act together to post a build log. Half of because I had lots of trouble with posting pics and the other half is I'm very shy when it comes to showing others my work. Its abit nerve wracking for me so please be persistent with me. All of this is done over my phone as I don't have a PC or laptop. I brought this kit awhile back and is my first shot at a large build. I have 6 other ships under my belt just to get some experience needed for this build. The first photo shows the all too familiar sight of bulkheads and keel assembly. Some wrangling was need for things to line up but eventually I got there. The deck is just dry fitted at this point of time.
  14. I have an old Mamoli 1/53 scale Golden Hind kit that my wife gave me years ago. Over time, I lost most of the plans. Does anyone know where I can get a complete set of plans? Thanks much, Tim
  15. Hi. I am 14 and I am a electric wheelchair user and I am not very strong. My carer will be doing all the physical work like lifting the glue and cutting the timbers. I wanted to build a wooden model ship like my carer Antony UK. We started the black pearl but the magazines arrived for the first few weeks then nothing so I cancelled the subscription. I have just bought this from Cornwall Model Boats. The Black Queen. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mamoli_MM60.html It's the Mini Mamoli series and it's a beginners model. Solid hull is a nice way for me to start. My carer said that I should do a build log so it might help other people to build this model. That's enough about me Opening the box The contents. The small bits. And the timber. The Hull. The instructions are quite poor considering that they need to be interpreted by beginners model.. Trying to read through the instructions. Starting the build. I sanded the hull being careful not to sand the edges that are deck level as I wanted these square. I then added a strip of 3X3 on the stern to give the correct angle. No 3X 3 supplied. Next I have cut the planks to length. The instructions ask for 15 mm long planks for the decks. I made them 25mm long. Planks that are 15mm long and 3mm wide don't look right. Next I added the deck edges. Only 2 as seen on the photo. This allows me to overlap the edge of the deck with the planks. I will trim this later after the planking is complete. Then add the other edge strip. The Planks were glued to paper in the correct pattern with PVA glue. I will be doing a little bit each day during the holiday. Alex S
  16. model ship kit by mamoli started a few years ago have continued work on it recently
  17. I'm not happy with the 1:93 scale ships boats in my kit. Does anyone have a suggestion where I can find either kit based or already made ships boats in 1:93 scale?
  18. January 2014 – After 21 years of sitting in a large box of packing peanuts I decided to resurrect the Mamoli Constitution. Luckily I had packed everything carefully. The ship’s hull and some of the tools were in the box, the remaining wood and parts were taped up in the original kit box. The scale of the model is 1:93. I pulled the plans and started to review where I left the build off. I had completed the outer hull (which is double planked on bulkheads), including the green tiles representing each of the copper plates. The main deck was not planked and the forward bulkhead while started only had one plank on one side. I completed the forward bulkhead and proceeded to plank the deck. According to the instructions, each piece of Tanganyika needed to be cut to 80mm, then using a No.2 pencil you color the edges on both sides and the butt ends. I used white wood glue to glue the pieces down. I marked with pencil each of the deck penetrations, which were already done in the plywood. Then I carefully cut the wood and sanded/filed the edges back to the original hole size. This is an area where I see a fairly significant difference in the Mamoli plans and the Model Shipyards. The MS builds the hull in the bow into what becomes the forward bulkhead. The Mamoli construction includes the bow in the planking and adds the forward bulkhead once the hull is complete. This also means the bow is approached differently. I will get to that later. Once the deck was completed I put on the handrails. At this point, I decided a couple of points. First, my plan was to paint the model using the Constitution plaint set from MS and secondly, I wanted to modify the bow and the stern ornamentation to be more closely aligned with the looks of the MS model. This meant creating a method to add the scrollwork since the Mamoli did not include it other than two white metal plates to be affixed to the bow for the fiddlehead design. Secondly the stern did not have the two boards that ran from the lower stern over the windows and back down producing a nice double curve. These I created using 2x2mm walnut strips I bent with the heat bender. As a note, I found out that adding CA to the sides of the strip before I bent it allowed me to control the splintering which the walnut was prone to do. This might have had something to do with the wood strips being over 21 years old. Stern Galleries The kit came with two white metal pieces for the windows in the stern galleries. One was curved almost correctly, the other was straight. Unfortunately, when trying to bend the metal for the gallery, it broke along the central vertical piece between the windows. I was afraid to heat it before I bent it. I found both of the gallery pieces required much work in sanding and shaping before they could be glued into the model. Since I was painting the ship I could use sandable epoxy putty to add to smooth the pieces to the hull. I did end up having to remove more of this than planned since I thought the top of the gallery was more curved than flat. I used my Foredom Rotary tool, rilflers, sand paper, and dental tools to carve the gallery sides and put the modeling details back into it where I either ended up sanding them out, or they needed to be made to extend through the putty. I then added the 2x2 walnut strips around the stern and completed the stern with the side strips running down the gallery aft sides. These I extended 2 mm to match the 2x2s I added around the windows. The attached photo shows the Starboard Gallery. You can see the frame break on the bottom of the leftmost window. This was patched before painting.
  19. An Eight Dollar Model The footy model I've been puttering around with has been put on the shelf for a little while. I've just lost enthusiasm for the project. I'll probably get back to it at some point, though. In September, I took the kids to a model and toy show at the DuPage County Fairgrounds (near Chicago). This event happens twice a year and the kids always find things there: action figures, models, other assorted plastic stuff... There are almost never wooden ship models at this show. It's all about plastic, and mostly cars and aircraft. So I was walking down an aisle just browsing, trying to keep the kids in sight and saw this... The guy in the booth, before I could say anything, said, "Give me eight bucks and it's yours." I looked in the box. Everything appeared to be there, including some tools and a book. The wood alone was worth eight bucks. I bought it. When I got home, I found that, indeed, everything was there and the plans looked really good. I decided to try to build the model instead of just scavenge model wood out of it. Although I'd never considered building a model of the America, this kit has piqued my interest. Dan
  20. Hello MSW, I started building the Friesland one year ago, and maintained a build log at Dutch forum www.modelbouwforum.nl Because I relied heavily on the build log by GreatGalleons, I decided to post my progress here as well. I hope it is fun for you to read. Mind I am new to the hobby, so expect a lot of (beginner) mistakes and troubles Let me begin to recap what has been done so far. Building plank: Keel and Bulwarks, dryfit Note if you also want to build this Mamoli kit: The keel does not match the drawings/plans at all. Either make a new one from scratch or accept the deficiency. Also the bulwarks are what looks to be sawn by hand. The shape is really bad at times, with poor symmetry and alignment. I had a lot of problems getting the hull shape and the deck to all line up evenly. Take your time with this phase, certainly with this particular kit. Marked the rabbet line and bulwarks alignments on the keel: I removed the back part of the keel to allow for shaping the rabbet line. Because my underwatership will be painted white, I did not worry about it look ugly at this stage. Will be filled, sanded and painted later.
  21. Greetings Friends; It has been over a year since I have posted on this forum. For any who are interested in the travels of fellow captains I share briefly......Following my completion of my USS Constellation Model of which I was quite proud, I was looking forward to my next project. This was delayed by the birth of my first child; a daughter Clara. Apparently it is much easier to sneak away to the Shipyard when the Admiral is sleeping off her third Trimester than it is during the first 4 months of newborn-hood. So suffice to say, sharp objects and bits of wood flying about were not in the plan for me. Then, in mid-summer I suffered a serious accident. I don't care to get into the details but long story short I lost the use of my right eye. It was traumatic for me and there was quite a recovery before I was able to resume my regular routine. I found adjusting to the loss of biopic vision to be quite difficult and still find depth perception to pay tricks on me at close range. By the fall I had recovered enough that I began testing my hand at some of the many activities I enjoy so dearly which require the use of my sight. I began painting miniatures again and found it quite difficult, but not impossible to manage a brush on a 28mm figure once again. I practiced a lot and am almost, but perceptively not quite, back to where I was. Then a few weeks ago this kit fell into my lap. A friend of a friend found it in a garage sort of thing and to my surprise it was 100% in tact with even the receipt (2002?) in the box. My questions as to if I could still manage model ship building with only one eye is about to be answered. All without spending any money up front on the experiment. So without further ado......my build log for Mamoli's Blue Shadow US Brig.
  22. What is the proper way to make the side windows for Hms Victory
  23. I haven't been on the forum for quite some time and been busy with other things so haven't been building kits in awhile but I recently started working a Mini Mamoli kit of The Black Queen. So far it's coming along well and have the hull deck planking completed along with the keel. So far it seems to be a nice fairly easy little kit...Has anyone else built this same kit or similar Mini Mamoli kits? How has your experience been?
  24. Hi: I asked this question in my introduction topic but I think here is a better place to ask. These are the kits I have bought, some because are very old and I did not want to miss the opportunity of having them. - America yacht by sterling models (RC) - Dallas revenue cutter by Artesania Latina - Swift by Artesania Latina - Bluenose by mini mamoli My 2 candidates are the swift and the bluenose. I actually bought the bluenose to make it my first model but now that I have it seems very small and I think would be hard to do the rigging for a beginner, the main point is that it is solid hull construction which is easier but to be honest I do not like solid hull construction however it can be a good exercise for other techniques. Should I start with the mini mamoli? the swift by AL? or something bigger like the Dallas revenue(I wouldn't like to mess this kit because it is out of production)? The America yacht I think is out of play for now because this particular ship has a special place in my heart (childhood memories) and I want to start it once I feel comfortable with my skills as a model ship builder. Your help is appreciate it. Juan
  25. After having this kit for almost 20 years and finally retiring, I'm preparing to embark on this build. I will be reading with much interest other builds of the Victory. I'm sure I will have questions and I will try to keep a photo log up to date. Any suggestions or "tricks" that others may have are welcome. I will be unpacking all my tools, etc., for the build and purchasing glues and other necessities soon. I'm excited to get started.

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