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Found 106 results

  1. Where do I start? First, it’s great to find this forum and be able to obtain nearly instantaneous expertise and advice! Of course the first piece of sage advice was in essence, ‘... first time builders don’t start with HMS Victory!!’... and I fully understand that sound advice. But with your help and good Lord willing, I will succeed. I do plan to spend some time rooting around on this grand site to find pertinent information of which I’ve already found and am reading some. But thank you in advance for all the assistance/advice I’m sure to receive (and want!). That’s always better than ‘I knew that would happen!’ After the fact. Background: I’ve been an avid fan of the sailing/warships/Nelson’s navy of the late 18th and early 19th century for more than 40 years, having spent some time in Greenwich (UK) visiting the Maritime Museum (during a Nelson celebration actually) and having been able to visit the Victory in Portsmouth in the 1980’s. I’ve also toured the USS Constitution in Boston - as I’m sure many of you have as well. I purchased this kit (if memory serves) in the early 90’s and have been carrying it around with me for some time now. Having just retired from the workforce, I thought ‘Finally, now is the time!’. Well here goes. As I read in an earlier post, the model directions are a train wreck. I’ve read through the directions and have laid out the various reference items for easy reference. I don’t speak or read Italian so some of the information is difficult to interpret. The below picture is where we stand today having fitted the parts, but not glued anything but the keel (3) sections. I first found that the supporting horizontal beams did not readily fit into the slots. I then went through sanding/scraping the slots to ensure the beam would fit. Couple of observations: (1) The horizontal beams stick out beyond the first frame at the bow. I plan to cut off the ends to align with frame #1 (2) Looking from bow to stern, the various frame tops are not in a horizontal line. That is, starting with frame #10 (through 16) is the frame tops are progressively higher. The result will be the deck will not be horizontal. I’ve verified the frames are all seated correctly but wondering if those frame tops should all be at the same height. If so, I’ll need to remove and sand/adjust the tops accordingly. (3) An initial fit check of the deck closest to the stern (#27) seems to indicate an extremely tight fit... I take it I will need to adjust accordingly. (4) Anything I should know before I glue everything below after (1-3) above are covered? Finally, I’m wondering if the kit has simply ‘expanded’ over the years so that it will be ill fitting across the board.... or perhaps the kits are ill fitting to begin with? All for now; Thanks again for your help/assistance and I hope everyone has a great weekend!
  2. So here I start another Build Log... This being my 3rd wooden model ship started, and only one being completed (the first perhaps a little bit over my head), I purchased this model kit on Ebay for a very good price about 20 months ago and actually only began this kit in the late fall last year. At first I was not going to do a build log as I always find my time limited with regards to posting progress and updates but given the lack of build logs for this particular Mamoli kit (another one, the first on this forum, just recently started this last month), I thought I would start one. I have always found the age of Exploration of the most interest, and especially with regards to Christopher Columbus... and that being said here is the token picture of the opened box.
  3. Many years ago when I was working on the Syren, I decided that I wished to have a model ship finished sooner rather than later, as the Syren was going to take a while. There is strong irony in that sentence, but I'll move on. I also wanted to build a wooden model from a kit, as I'd never purchased a wooden ship kit before. The Mini-Mamoli kit of the Nina eventually ended up on the workbench. The start of this project was around 2010 or so. Below is the front of the box complete with dried glue, wood strips and sawdust. I'm going to post the photos I've taken through the years with commentary along the way. I'm posting this log as it is a fun and simple kit, which I think I really will be able to complete soon.
  4. This is my first kit build. I've dabbled with RC planes for a few years so maybe some of that experience will help me as I come up to speed building ships. I started in late December and kept my build log off-line. I meant to start the log here earlier, but just didn't take the time until now. The dates when I made my first entries are noted as follows. 12/27/2017 I purchased the Mamoli Yacht America as my first kit and received it on 12/18/2017. I selected this kit because I think it is a beautiful ship with great lines, and I also thought it would be a reasonable kit to start with as it did not appear to have extensive rigging. I considered selecting the Constructo America kit, but chose to go with Mamoli’s Amrerica kit because Constructo’s kit did not have a jib boom which to me is significant to the lines and the appearance of the ship. I realize that I could have added it, but this being my first kit build, I thought it was best to rely on the contents of the kit and follow the instructions. I also spent some time on the internet and found ModelShipWorld.com. After reading through the build logs posted by Hamilton, Mojofilter, and Flyer, and then reviewing the documentation provided with the kit, I’m thinking I may have selected the wrong kit maker. I’ll move forward with it and do the best I can. However, as I progress with reviewing the great information I’m finding in this forum and other places on line, and then using some of that information to assess this kit, I have to say I am not impressed with this Mamoli kit. I read about the fire some time back and realize the company is out of business, but I don’t see myself building any other Mamoli kits that are still avilable. Today I saw a new build log started by Greatgalleons that looks to be a good resource. The ModelShipWorld forum is outstanding, especially for us guys who are new to this. 12/28/2017 Separated keel and bulkheads. Began reviewing instructions and drawings. Labeled bulkheads. 12/29/2017 I have found an excellent resource on Youtube. Gary Brinker has posted 40 videos of his Model Expo Bluenose build (titled “Bluenose 1” through “Bluenose 40”, averaging about 30 minutes each). These videos have some great discussion and a lot of good info and insights to consider. His ModelExpo kit appears to be far superior in quality and completeness to my Mamoli kit. Completed first dry fit of keel and bulkheads. Forward bulkheads and deck fit was okay, but has some looseness. Rear deck and bulkheads were another matter. The 3 bulkheads closest to stern did not fit well and required trimming. I’m stopping to return to build logs and re-read and re-check photos. 01/01/2018 ModelShipWorld.com appeared to have a server problem and was down for a couple of days. I have not been able to re-read the build logs, but remembered some of Hamilton’s comments. I disassembled the bulkheads and keel and checked each against the drawings. I’m under-whelmed. As I look at the laser cuts, many of them are of very poor precision. For example, the slot in the keel for the second bulkhead back from the bow is not straight on either side. With the cost of this kit, and the technology of CNC machines today, the quality of these cuts is unacceptable to me. These cuts should be perfectly straight and should be cut to the correct width so that there is no looseness with the bulkheads. Perhaps there needs to be some looseness to adjust the fit, but in reading Hamilton’s build log for this kit, he seems to have reached the same conclusion. Very poor quality in my opinion. I also see the same issues as Hamilton did with the laser cut parts not matching the drawings, leaving one to ponder which is correct. I am assuming Mamoli used a CNC machine, and if so it’s obvious the CNC programming for the laser cuts did not match the drawings provided with the kit. Lining the tip of the bow up on the drawing, the following photos show the poor laser cuts. Hamilton mentioned in his log that he would shim the keel to fill in the gaps per the drawing. The dry fit with the keel, the bulkheads and the deck pieces line up relatively well, they just do not match the drawings. My concern is, where is the inaccuracy and how does this affect the build later on such as when I begin planking the hull? Did they use an entirely different drawing to program the laser cuts? Should I trust the drawings? This kit cost too much for this level of quality, or lack thereof. I’d fire these guys if they worked for me. 1/25/2018 This entry to my build log covers several weeks of work. I spent time laying each bulkhead and the keel piece on the drawings to check alignment of the cuts. I found that if I align the stern up exactly on the drawing then the slots for the bulkheads and the masts line up fairly well. However, it shifts the error to the bow as you can see below. After several dry fits with the deck pieces, it seems that the bulkheads line up very well with the slots in the forward and aft deck pieces. It doesn’t seem that the issue with the bulkhead slots in the keel piece not matching the drawing will have much impact to the overall alignment of the kit. Also, I could spend time shimming the keel piece to fill in the gaps in the picture above, but how much does that change the appearance of the model to the naked eye? I’ll give it some more thought, and might go ahead and shim it up to match the drawing. There was more looseness with the bulkheads than I realized at first, and based on the other build logs I’ve read I decided that I should shim them up to fit better. The problem I realized was that I had no spare or scrap wood since this is my first kit. Also, there is only one hobby shop within 25 miles of where I live, and that shop did not have supplies for ship modeling. They are mainly a RC shop for cars and planes. At this point, I decided I would order a supply of wood and did so from Agesofsail.com (various widths in mm, 0.5 mm thick and 1 mm thick, 36” bundles of 10). It took 7-8 days to receive so I was somewhat dead in the water until then. I’ve now trimmed, sanded, shimmed, etc., all 15 bulkheads and the keel piece, where needed and have a pretty tight fit on all 15 bulkheads. Here is the dry fit with the shimming completed. Here are the pieces showing some of the shims. I noted from the other build logs that bulkhead 14 is not cut correctly.
  5. Hi All, After my build of the Half Moon, I started buiding the Friesland of Mamoli. However, when the 2nd planking was nearly done, I paused buiding due to all kinds of circumstances. Now that I'm working from home for 2 months already (due to Corona), I picked up buiding again. I'll post some pictures of the buid in 2013, end then continue where I left off. I hope to finish this build, I didn't start a report earlier because I was afraid I wouldn't keep it up. But now I built for 2 months already, I dare to start. this report. Hopefully you like it, and help my motivation to keep up! Best regards, Alex
  6. It is finally time to start the new build! Royal Louis by Mamoli. This will be my third ship in my series of French warships. First being La Couronne, second Soleil Royal and now Royal Louis. My goal with these is to show an evolution of ship building and design throughout the 17th century and into the 18th. I am no expert on the topic, and this is really just for fun but, it has been a very learning and exciting ride so far. Yes, Soleil Royal is still under construction and I have no intention of leaving her unfinished. Much like I did during L.C.'s build, I will be swapping back and forth periodically between the two builds. I have found that for myself on these large and very long builds, (Soleil Royal is quickly approaching the completion of her second trip around the sun with easily another to go) that being able to switch between projects helps to alleviate a lot of those monotonous places in the build that often times drives builders to quit. I just want to give fair warning that if the build goes silent for a long length of time, I'm most likely on the other and feel free to join me there! Next up is the newest addition to my shipyard, the Professional Build Slip from Hobbyzone. I have been wanting to build or buy a build slip for some time and a while back I read through an excellent review and tutorial on assembling this one on MSW. Link here. I decided to give it a try. So far I am happy with it and it has already been a huge help in fixing some of my common issues of bulkhead alignment. I think this will be the start to a lot of years with a great new tool. Now we come to the kit itself. Most of what is in it is fairly common kit pieces. Laser cut false keel, bulkheads and misc. framing pieces. Packages of the usual cast decorations (I will again be carving my own) canons, carriages, furniture etc. The rope looks decent. Not the best to be had but perfectly usable for anyone not wanting to upgrade and still have a nice model. The wood probably impressed me the most. Looking at the bundles, I see nice straight strips, uniform thicknesses and plenty of it. A nice change from the quality of my last two kits. How much of it will I use n this model is yet to be seen, though not from quality but, from color and species choices. Since I am trying to keep my three ships looking relatively the same, I will most likely be switching to mahogany and walnut for the outer hull. We shall see. The instructions are decent but, not for a beginner. Like most kits similar to this one, the drawings and "instructions" leave a a lot of detail out and makes assumptions that you know what you are doing in order to achieve what it shown. Plan on using a lot of outside resources for rigging, planking etc.. All part of the fun right?! Probably the most annoying thing so far that I have seen, is how much stuff is cast metal. Ladders, railings, the ship's wheel and even the boats are all cast metal. I will not be using any of those items on this build. Like most of these kits there are no sails, only the flags so I will need to make my own, though that is a very long time from now. I'm looking forward to another fun and educational build! So let us get started. While waiting on the new slip to get here, (I had a month as it was coming overseas) I was able to get the keel glued together and test fit all the bulkheads and decks to check alignments and to see what modifications I will need to do to accommodate my personal changes. The main ones being the build out of the cabins along with lighting. I did this on S.R. and intend to do the same again. Now that the slip is in and assembled, I sett he keel in place and began to set the bulkheads and installed the first deck. Off to a good start. Filler blocks, fairing the frames, extra supports and all those fun hours of sanding that go into the sub structure that make the model turn out nice is up next. I hope everyone enjoys the journey!
  7. Hello and welcome to all. I guess luck was on my side when I found this kit very cheaply on eBay. I certainly had concerns it would be incomplete yet took a chance and was excited when it arrived as the only contents package in the kit that had been opened was the planking bag. I don't think any are missing but if there are they can be easily sourced. Its a very old kit and on inspection I found the keel, deck and bulkheads to be very roughly cut which will require some recutting and repairing. All the other parts including cast metal, brass and pre finished hardwoods are in great condition. The Mamoli kit recreates a 16th century Carrack, double planking bulkhead construction using lime wood, walnut, mahogany, poplar and other woods. Fittings are cast metal, brass and preformed hardwoods. Nine sheets of plans, 12 cannons and sails. Scale 1:54 Total length 833 mm Total height 650 mm Drawings are dated 1978. A little study has been done and a few pieces of reference have been found. The ship is a three masted Carrack, length of the hull was 35 metres. Height from the top of the mast to the keel was approximately 30 meters. The prints of that name and the documents found in the historical archives of Barcelona allowed the reconstruction of the ships plans, which takes its place between the medieval merchant ship and the galleon , classed for its particular structures of the forecastle and the quarterdeck among the Carracks. Probably around 1519 it took part in an important expedition, which led Fernandez Cortez to conquer Mexico. ( I'm yet to find any other evidence to support that reference ). The outer galleries, one of which is a balcony, the apartments under the small quarterdeck , the super structures of the decks providing the installation of awnings for protection from the sun, indicates they were employed for passengers of wealth and high class. Characteristics of the ship are the escutcheons at the prow, painted with very bright colours and merely having a decorative function. Portugese merchant ships like the Caracca Atlantica played a vital part in the age of exploration. They were fully rigged to run before the prevailing winds, large enough to hold precious cargoes of spices, and armed for protection against hostile natives and greedy pirates ( was there ever another sort of pirate). When Magellan sailed around the world his entire fleet consisted of these vessels, known as Caracks. At this point I'd like to give a huge thanks to Louie the Fly for inspiring and helping to learn a little about the ship before I build. Once again thank Louie the Fly. ill post a few pics I've found of the model once completed. In my next log I'll add the drawing pictures and the contents of the kit along with a few ideas to change the stern galleries which I find unsightly and very busy to the eye. cheers to all Kikatinalong
  8. January 2014 – After 21 years of sitting in a large box of packing peanuts I decided to resurrect the Mamoli Constitution. Luckily I had packed everything carefully. The ship’s hull and some of the tools were in the box, the remaining wood and parts were taped up in the original kit box. The scale of the model is 1:93. I pulled the plans and started to review where I left the build off. I had completed the outer hull (which is double planked on bulkheads), including the green tiles representing each of the copper plates. The main deck was not planked and the forward bulkhead while started only had one plank on one side. I completed the forward bulkhead and proceeded to plank the deck. According to the instructions, each piece of Tanganyika needed to be cut to 80mm, then using a No.2 pencil you color the edges on both sides and the butt ends. I used white wood glue to glue the pieces down. I marked with pencil each of the deck penetrations, which were already done in the plywood. Then I carefully cut the wood and sanded/filed the edges back to the original hole size. This is an area where I see a fairly significant difference in the Mamoli plans and the Model Shipyards. The MS builds the hull in the bow into what becomes the forward bulkhead. The Mamoli construction includes the bow in the planking and adds the forward bulkhead once the hull is complete. This also means the bow is approached differently. I will get to that later. Once the deck was completed I put on the handrails. At this point, I decided a couple of points. First, my plan was to paint the model using the Constitution plaint set from MS and secondly, I wanted to modify the bow and the stern ornamentation to be more closely aligned with the looks of the MS model. This meant creating a method to add the scrollwork since the Mamoli did not include it other than two white metal plates to be affixed to the bow for the fiddlehead design. Secondly the stern did not have the two boards that ran from the lower stern over the windows and back down producing a nice double curve. These I created using 2x2mm walnut strips I bent with the heat bender. As a note, I found out that adding CA to the sides of the strip before I bent it allowed me to control the splintering which the walnut was prone to do. This might have had something to do with the wood strips being over 21 years old. Stern Galleries The kit came with two white metal pieces for the windows in the stern galleries. One was curved almost correctly, the other was straight. Unfortunately, when trying to bend the metal for the gallery, it broke along the central vertical piece between the windows. I was afraid to heat it before I bent it. I found both of the gallery pieces required much work in sanding and shaping before they could be glued into the model. Since I was painting the ship I could use sandable epoxy putty to add to smooth the pieces to the hull. I did end up having to remove more of this than planned since I thought the top of the gallery was more curved than flat. I used my Foredom Rotary tool, rilflers, sand paper, and dental tools to carve the gallery sides and put the modeling details back into it where I either ended up sanding them out, or they needed to be made to extend through the putty. I then added the 2x2 walnut strips around the stern and completed the stern with the side strips running down the gallery aft sides. These I extended 2 mm to match the 2x2s I added around the windows. The attached photo shows the Starboard Gallery. You can see the frame break on the bottom of the leftmost window. This was patched before painting.
  9. Hello. It is all started in 1990 when I got a magazine with paper model of Golden Hind in it. I never succeeded to build it then. Finally now I do it from wood, not paper.... This is my second model ship from wood I did the hull. Next is rigging. Flint
  10. Well it's time to get this build log underway. Thanks to mtaylor who put the idear into my head. I bought The Lexington American Brig by C.Mamoli kit back in 2013, I started it then ran into some real life problems. I started on the Lexington, and soon ran into my 1st problem as the instructions in my mind are awfull. I have made a lot of plastic models, ships, tanks etc. but never a wooden ship. So as per instructions i start with adding the bulkheads to the keel, once that was done i started on the mahogany deck sheet. Then added the transom where my 1st problems started. So i fixed that with a bit of cutting and sanding but never thought of measuring so it ended up slightly off as you can see from the pic. After the Transom I started on the 1st layer of planking where my real life problems started. This is the point of the build where i was stuck and mothballed the kit until i sorted the real life stuff and researched alot about planking and looked for all i could find on the Lexington, which puzzled me a bit because I found that there were a few versions of the ship. Some had 4 windows above the 2 gunports in the transom, some had 2. Mine has just 2 gunports.I also found 3 build logs here and 2 of them are different to mine I know The Lexington was renamed from Wild Duck to Lexington and was re-fitted to be a war ship in the continental navy. So the years passed and i forgot about the ship, Then came covid 19. So took her back out and with the research and some help from you guys I started again. So i finaly finnished the ist layer of planking. Which i can say was a chore but an enjoyable one. I found i did'nt need much filler as the planking came out quite good.
  11. Many years ago (25-30?), before the advent of the internet, I bought and started construction of this cross section of the USS Constitution. It may have been following a visit to that venerable ship in Boston that I felt so inspired. I got the frame built,deck beams formed and installed, and the planking done outside and in. At that time I started to feel overwhelmed,with many questions that needed answering before I went any further. With no help readily available I packed the unfinished kit away. Someday. I never lost my love of wooden ships and had the opportunity to visit several including the CW Morgan of Mystic, Cutty Sark in Greenwich, and the Draken Harfarge Viking ship. I still felt the tug of building a ship and when we moved to Maryland 3 years ago I started reading about The Pride of Baltimore II which I decided I'd really like to build. I figured that my long neglected Constitution would be a great practice project since I already had most of the hull built, and it only has one mast and spars, and associated rigging. I took her out of her cardboard box dry dock and started work. I made a crude working cradle to hold the hull, and gave the ship a quick coat of polyurethane as a sealer. The The mast dowel is just inserted to check it's fit and rake. The mast step is imperfectly fitted to the hold, but I figure that it will be covered with ballast and barrels so I didn't worry about it. I've read through the other build logs for this kit and if I was to do it over, I would not have installed the deck beams other than the ones over the hold to make it easier to install decking and deck fittings. You live and learn. Installing all the below deck items should be "fun". In my zeal, I mistakenly added un necessary hatch cross pieces between the lower deck's beams. Oh well, it was good practice. I'm planning on using copper foil rather than the cheesy looking green wood chips supplied with the kit. Anyone here tried simply scribing the lines in the copper tape to simulate individual copper plates? It would sure be easier, but might not look convincing. I might try to give the copper an aged patina which could enhance the illusion I can always try a strip or two on a piece of scrap wood to see. One thing that deterred me from working on this kit when I first got it was a dread of figuring out how to thread deadeyes and form ratlines. Now that there's a resource like Model Ship World, I'll have some guidance which is a great relief. I need to figure out a better way to mount the hull. The kit just includes a cheap looking piece of pine and I gather you're supposed to run a couple of screws up through it into the keel,which does not sound very secure. I might build a nicer version of my crude work cradle in better wood, like cherry, for final displaying. I thought it might be fun to have some crew members on deck and aloft, but I can't find any in 1:93 scale. Do you think figures in 1:87,HO railroad scale, would look 'way too off scale? I could probably modify some of those. What's with the natural colored standing rigging cordage supplied with the kit? Can I somehow dye it black or would it be better to replace it? I know I'll have tons of other questions as time goes on, and I welcome any and all criticism and suggestions.
  12. This will be my first wooded model kit and winter project. I'm about ready to lay the keel and begin assembly of the hull timbers. All helpful tips will be appreciated. Thanks, Dave
  13. Hi. I am 14 and I am a electric wheelchair user and I am not very strong. My carer will be doing all the physical work like lifting the glue and cutting the timbers. I wanted to build a wooden model ship like my carer Antony UK. We started the black pearl but the magazines arrived for the first few weeks then nothing so I cancelled the subscription. I have just bought this from Cornwall Model Boats. The Black Queen. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/mamoli_MM60.html It's the Mini Mamoli series and it's a beginners model. Solid hull is a nice way for me to start. My carer said that I should do a build log so it might help other people to build this model. That's enough about me Opening the box The contents. The small bits. And the timber. The Hull. The instructions are quite poor considering that they need to be interpreted by beginners model.. Trying to read through the instructions. Starting the build. I sanded the hull being careful not to sand the edges that are deck level as I wanted these square. I then added a strip of 3X3 on the stern to give the correct angle. No 3X 3 supplied. Next I have cut the planks to length. The instructions ask for 15 mm long planks for the decks. I made them 25mm long. Planks that are 15mm long and 3mm wide don't look right. Next I added the deck edges. Only 2 as seen on the photo. This allows me to overlap the edge of the deck with the planks. I will trim this later after the planking is complete. Then add the other edge strip. The Planks were glued to paper in the correct pattern with PVA glue. I will be doing a little bit each day during the holiday. Alex S
  14. I started this build log for one reason, there wasn't much of these being built for such an important ship. I tried my hand at the bluenose 2 as a first build and ended up abandoning her... let's just say one late night there was a shipwreck, might end up being a scratch build in the distant future. For know I'm tackling mamoli's kit. At first I noticed the plans are so much worse then artisana's, thank God for the interwebz as I'm learning how to build from those befor me. The wood as well is in very poor quality, I had a warp in the keel and the balkheads were very badly cut (all pre-cut by hand). The wood planks were all mixed up in one big bag, and some broke just by handling them, in part from the old kit and some just broke (5×5 broke in 1/2 cause if a knot in the middle). As a clear indicator of age on this kit... the little rubber bands that were suppose to hold a plank bundle together was basically brittle plastic that disintergrated on touch and stained the wood. I guess I grabbed a very old kit. I'm missing lots of wood like the blocks on the "nose" of the ship to round the plank into the keel. Had to fab up my own, no big deal but still a bit of a headache as this is my first real go at things. To do it all over again I wouldn't have bought the mamoli as the price of the kit isn't representative of quality in the slightest. Anyways, mamoli bashing aside her we go with a few pics. Of my cat... because why not start with that adorable face 🤣 These are the pictures I took upon opening of the kit. Anyone willing to guess at the age?
  15. Thought I would start my build log, have just had a good look at Gil's build, am truly inspired, so here goes... Am currently approx. 90 hrs into a build that I started about 11 and a half years ago, two children and a major house move/extension have seen her in dry dock for 5 years now, but house work is nearly at an end so with a bit of luck should be back in the boatshed in the next couple of months, should be done for Xmas (note: didn't say which year!!)
  16. Greetings all! My first post is to display the find that brought me here. I found this kit in a thrift store down the street. They wanted $100 for it, but gave me a military discount! I was thrilled, since I have been to see the ship when I was on a business trip in Boston. It really made an impression on me. I enjoyed the museum. I learned about the time during a storm when the ship came loose from its lines and was swinging around on its remaining moorings. It swung into the modern steel warship moored next to it and did extreme damage to it, while taking only scratches itself. An amazing ship, undefeated in battle (even if it required her crew to man the boats and tow her out of the doldrums.) My background in making stuff is mixed. Plane models as a kid, home repair, car modifications, machining, and extensive gunsmithing. I have never done anything more detailed in wood than a pinewood derby car, but I'm ex-military, and believe I can follow a manual. Looks like everything is here. We'll see!
  17. i start this ship at January 18, 2010 still in progress of Building i belive it took time more than the real on i restart working after year and half of stoping it i just finish all the cooper things and next week i will start to finish all the plank and gun port hope not taking long time to finish
  18. From the album: The Gretel

    © The Gretel by Ekis

  19. Hey anyone, Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling. As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have). I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way. So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12). It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result: Next up, I needed more experience. I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet. I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc. A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model. So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build. I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can. I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress. Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc. Thanks for looking. Andy.
  20. Hello again folks, After several moves from country to country during the last couple years, i finally settled with my Family in Germany and i decided to get back on track with my Revell Connie. I have a 2-year-old Boy now so need to prepare, 2 more years and he will help me with next projects However to my shock i found the original box damaged, masts broken, decks warped as from heat exposure, several pieces missing etc. only the Hull pieces have survived intact - this got me thinking about kit-bashing, semi-scratch-building her from wood around the existing Hull but for now i lack the tools for a complete scratch build, hence the decision to go with the Mamoli Cross-Section. I've got my hands on some Mamoli plans a few years ago and after calculating the cost of tools needed to build from scratch, i decided to order the kit from Dusek Ship Kits aware of the fact that a few parts will need to be replaced. So while waiting for UPS Delivery, here is the Overall plan: 1. Mast only to the Fighting Top with standing rigging and Ratlines - as she would look with rest of mast removed (also to reduce height of Display case) 2. Possibly Main Yard rigged too but i am thinking "prepared to be pulled up" 3. Rest of mast pieces lying in front in display case 4. Some sailors perhaps preparing to raise the Yard After looking through all the build logs, i found already what needs to be replaced: - Rigging Blocks (Caldercraft as i cant find Syren in Europe) - Pumps (no idea which manufacturer yet) - Cannonballs (Caldercraft - i got them for the Revell Connie originally) - RB Model Barrels - Mantua Buckets (at least the small ones) And propably many more things which will need to be added/Replaced. So, waiting for the Package i have purchased JD already as the Instructions say Cheers and hope to have a chance to finish this one.
  21. Hello, encouraged by Kikatinalongs i will submit my own build log of a carrack. I had the fortune to buy it at an auction for the equivalent of 20 $. Although not complete and lacking plans. I bought the plan from cornwall model boats. From start my intension was to use the wood as spare. The big con with my kit, which is quite old probably at least 30 years old, is the quality of metal casting. It is brittle and badly cast. From a personal view i think it quite ugly. Looks like someone put a caravan on top of a lumberyard. Mamoli did not bother to check how guns or windlass were constructed in the 16th century. Based on that i decided to make my own interpretation of a 16th century ship. Could possibly look like something sailing in the baltic sea.
  22. With the extra leisure time on my hands I decided to break out another kit from my stash to have more to do while waiting for the glue to dry on my Resolution. Mamoli/Dusek Gretel This will be my 2nd time around with this kit. For some reason I am attracted to Mamoli kits. even though they have their shortcomings compared to some of the other manufacturers. My modeling goal is more of an art piece rather than an historically correct masterpiece, and since some Mamoli kits seem rather whimsical in some respects, that may be why I am attracted to them. I was attracted to Gretel because it looked small and simple, and the sort of thing that would make a nice gift for a family member. I have a sister-in-law who was bugging me for a ship model, so that was what happened to the first kit; which I enjoyed building and led me to do it again. I have some pics in the Gallery as seen in my signature. This is the new Dusek resurrection of the kit, and it includes some features that myself and others might find as an improvement over the original Mamoli kits. Mamoli says that Gretel is based on a Chapman drawing, and the lines confirm that. Mamoli has made their own changes to some details, but not to the detriment of the model as far as I’m concerned. The changes mostly consist of simplifying some of the ornate work. Duplicating that Chapman counter would be an interesting and challenging endeavor. (... Hmmm, Laser engraving might be an option. ) Here is an overview of the kit contents. The relatively small number of parts compared to some of the monster kits we see, is refreshing in my opinion. I just realize I didn't include a picture of the wood package, but it is a typical bundle of sticks and looks to be of good quality. I will report any problems if I encounter any. Dusek has added a lot of laser cut parts, and they are a better fit than the stamped parts that Mamoli used to include. Dusek has added separate laser cut stem, keel and stern post, whereas Mamoli used to have you create those parts by applying veneer to the one piece backbone. I think the separate parts make for a better look, but the way Dusek has designed them is presenting some possible challenges. More on that later. Dusek has also replaced most of the cast ornamentation that was in the old Mamoli kit with some laser engraved pieces. The wood is dark, and the details are there, but don’t show up as well in person, as they do in this picture. I’m going to have to think about how to bring out the detail. I don’t like to paint, but that may be part of the solution. There are a few etched brass parts, which should make for a better finish in some areas than we had with the original kit. I struggle to build out of the box, because I’m always seeing ways to do things differently. That may have a lot to do with why it takes me so long to complete a kit. I am going to do my best to build this out of the box for the most part, because I think that helps others see that the kit should be all that you need to end up with a nice model. However, I know I won’t be able to resist changing some details here and there, which I will point out when it happens. I am actually a few hours into the build, so I will post an update soon.
  23. It's with a little trepidation that I start my first build log on MSW. The Roter Lowe is my third plank-on-bulkhead build, the first being Constructo's Enterprise, followed up by AL's Renard. It's by far the most complex build I've undertaken, and my first with multiple gun decks and decorative woodwork. In this kit, the decorations are a mix of inlaid wood and printed cardboard. Not sure how I feel about the cardboard, yet. The materials look nice and the instructions come on five dual-sided sheets of plans. I'm a bit concerned because the guns on the enclosed gun deck are to be mounted on carriages - I worry about them coming loose during the build and rattling around in the hull. I have to figure out some way to address that. I picked up the kit a couple of years ago when Model Expo was having a moving sale. I'm a very slow builder, with lots of starts and stops, so be warned. All that being said, let's post some pictures.
  24. Greetings everyone, This is my very first build, but I can tell I am hooked. I'm sure this will be the first of many. As of this posting, we are well underway: false keel and bulkhead framing first layer hull planking in boxwood second layer hull planking in walnut deck planking with tanganyka--a few flaws here, but I think these will be hidden by the inside wale planking It's time to cut the canon portholes--which makes me pretty nervous. I also have some questions about the inside wale planking that I will post to the group. So far, Im pleased with the kit and my work, and the images of the walnut on the hull make it look even better, I think.
  25. A few weeks ago, whilst on holiday in Lerici, Italy, I happened to come across a box in a junk shop containing the Mamoli 1:55 model kit Roter Lowe. The shop wanted €5 (about US$6) for the kit, but could (needless to say!), offer no guarantee that all parts were included! However, for €5 it seemed worth a punt and the plastic box of parts and other component bags were unopened (although a couple of spars were broken -but looked as if they could be repaired)! This is my first model build and I must admit that it is proving challenging, not helped by the very poor English translation of the Mamoli Italian instructions. My Build Log continues from the point reached in the excellent log by Stevinne -I've started my Build Log around the point where Stevinne's log finishes. The Mamoli instructions are silent about mounting the guns -I've wired mine to the carriages using paper-clips to ensure they don't come apart. Also, Mamoli don't state at what stage to glue the guns in place -I can't see how this can be done after the planking is complete -so I've done it before starting the planking. I've also made bow fillers out of balsa -there are quite a few comments about the benefits of doing this elsewhere on the website -it was time-consuming to do, but does make the planking easier. The metal gun port surrounds are proving problematic. I glued these in place with epoxy adhesive early in the build and its clear that several are standing proud of the hull -I can see no option other than grinding them flush with the first layer of strakes before laying the outer layer of hardwood strakes. It's going to be really tedious & it would have been good if the Mamoli instructions had made it clearer that they should not stand proud when glued into position .

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