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As I write this, contractors work downstairs doing a kitchen and living room renovation. Since I have to stay out of the way, I decided to work on a model. This is my first build log. I intended to use another model for that. However, we some times have to go with the flow. This will let me get my feet wet in the process of logs. I have an unconventional workspace for this project since so much stuff is in storage during the reno work. I am working on an end table while sitting on the floor or bent over from a chair. I find it hard to work on the model for very long. However, the steps are relatively short. The model I chose comes from Metal Earth (Link). They produce models of many items, genres, and scales. They have a few ship models in their portfolio. When I bought the kit that includes the Monitor and the Merrimack, I thought the model an interesting interpretation and concept. The number of tools needed for their models is minimal: cutters, needle nosed pliers, and tweezers. Add in some form of work magnifier and good lighting. And while the packaging says, “no glue required,” the key word is ‘required’ but with a caveat. (More on this later.) That answers the question, why this model at this time, which is good question to ask yourself before a building project. Additionally, I had assembled a previous model (Golden Hind) from Metal Earth. That process went well with decent results. I also want to point out that while the models have a sense of authenticity, I am building it for display over historical accuracy. As a point of interest to some: I paid $25.00 (US) at a game/hobby shop for this model of the Monitor and Merrimac. As I start posting I am up to step 9 of 29 steps outlined in the instructions. So, I will have some hindsight and previews of upcoming parts. I will 'post' with logical breaks in the flow so it's not one long thread. This is such a stop point.
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Ahoy mates, I was looking at the Scarnhorst build and that was enough to spur me to built a little metal kit of the U.S.S. Arizona thats been laying around since last Christmas. I've been very busy trying to keep the Admiral happy, so have not made further progress on my long term build (Wasa) - so I found some You Tube sites with tips for the Arizona (and other metal models as well), and it looked like something I could actually FINISH in a day. The caveat on this model is the SMALL scale - 1:1325 - based on a 608' prototype shrunk down to 5.51" long! The Arizona was built in 1915 and refurbished in 1931 ... we all know of her fate on December 7th 1941at Pearl Harbor. The model is configured to that time, and has a surprising amount of detail for something so small. Of course, compromises were made - but the product will not take up much space on the shelf. The picture above shows the tools needed - actually the flush cutters were still a little large to sever the 'clip points' on the laser-cut stainless steel sheets (2), so I had to touch them up with a grinder to refine them. The drill bits were to form small curves in the pliable metal, or to form small cylinders. My lighted magnifier was a MUST, as I found it hard to work with some of the tiny pieces ... or even see some of them. The metal is actually delicate, and I accidentally broke a couple of small bits off ... there were a couple of small repairs made with 1 minute epoxy. Building this was a 'crash course' in dealing with this type of model, and in future will take on a better kit of this type (not as small) of the U.S.S. Missouri. Zowie, here are the sheets with a hand shown for scale. I applied a wash of diluted Testors enamel red to the hull where it had anti-fouling paint, and light brown to the wooden areas of the deck (not shown here) - those area had some laser-etched texture. The rest of the parts were left bright metal, since the paint doesn't stick well to dead-flat shiny surfaces. Here is where I had over-bent a tiny compartment and broke off part of the wall. I did this repair with kneadable J-B putty to fill the compartment to be a backing for the broken section of wall. When mounted, the repair was a success, as the cured putty (6 minute set variety) is not visible from the outside. Fine tweezers, and finely tapered needle-nose pliers (no serrations) a dental tool and also an X-acto knife were wielded as need to push, prod, tease, bend and otherwise work this thin-metal medium. Above is a substantial part of the superstructure. Here are the aft guns. Now I've got the deck together ... this is an ABBREVIATED build log, since this sort of model was (as stated at the start of the log) just a break from the many things I have yet to do on my 'honey do' list. Lat year the Admiral got a new deck. Now I have to put a spa next to the deck. But really, the model has a certain 'charm'. The total build time turned out to be 10 hours over two days. There was a lot of fiddling with it, and some errors had to be un-done and corrected, but it is very good practice at manipulating small objects. And here she is ... all of 5 1/2 inches in length. You can see the applied red and tan paint in the areas mentioned before. Here you can see that there is a lot of detail etched into the metal. I think that for the Missouri I will apply the lessons learned to be able to do a better job on a better model - one etched on larger sheets. Here is a view from the stern. Other than for the aforementioned repairs, no glue was needed ... just a lot of patience. Smooth sailing and fair weather ! Johnny
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I received this as a Christmas gift last year and recently decided to give it a shot. The model comes packaged in a 6"x6" box and works up into a 5 1/2" model stem to stern. The materials consist of two steel sheets with all parts attached via sprues. Construction is of the "insert tab a in slot b" type. The tabs can be folded over or twisted 90 degrees to lock the parts together. Steps are laid out in a series of diagrams - no text here. Tools used for construction - a wire cutter to cut parts loose (some have three attachment points and I cut one before twisting the parts loose) and a needlenose plier to fold or twist the tabs to lock in place. The order of steps is logical and I was able to follow with no deviation. Here is a shot of the underside that shows several of the tabs twisted and locked in place. A few shots of the finished model follow. The pieces were not dangerously sharp, but I wouldn't recommend this for younger kids. I was thinking about getting one to build with my 7 year old granddaughter, but I think I'll hold off on that. I have a paper pirate ship I picked up a few years ago - we may start there. A size comparison with my Bluenose in progress and the model in it's display location atop my monitor. We'll see if the cat allows that to continue. Overall the model went together well. The pieces were strong enough to take some flexing, the assembly plan was logical (although a third hand would be useful at some points), and the completed model holds together well. In short it was just the thing to help me keep my hand in model building, while I continue in my Bluenose doldrums. It's a fun little project that takes a short amount of time and provides completion satisfaction quickly. Now I can say I have a completed build! Bob
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I was at a hobby shop for the Rocky Mountain Shipwrights show. It was a Wednesday night so it was pretty slow. I noticed they had some of these Metal Earth models so I decided to try it out. I finished it in the three hours that I was there. It seems there is some interest in this forum for these ships so I took a lot of pictures to do a build log. I want to point out that this ship looks an awful lot like the Disney Pirates of the Caribbean Black Pearl. It is not Disney trade marked. I wondered about that at first and found the answer on the back of the package. It read's, "There once was a real ship named the Black Pearl captained by Henry Morgan. one of the world's most notorious pirates. The Black Pearl which first sailed in 1669 fought many battles, the most famous of which was an invasion in Panama in 1671." So keep in mind that this is Henry Morgans Black Pearl not Jack Sparrow's. They look an awful lot alike but they're not. Wink wink ..nod nod. So yea it's a knock off but since it's sold in the US so I think it's a legal knock off. Here's what came in the package. Two metal sheets and instructions. It's a little backwards you start with the masts. The hardest part about this ship is the tiny metal tabs. I do a lot of small stuff but these gave me some real trouble. If you decide to do one have a good pair of strong tweezers. Now you put on the hull. The instructions are vague on this part. Use the stand for the ship to figure out how wide the base should be. Since I didn't do this the bottom of mine is to thin which makes the stand useless. Also watch the tabs. Pre bend them to fit especially in the bow. That part took me way to long because I didn't set up for it. Also if you can glue the pieces together then bend that tabs that may be easier then just bending. Getting the hull together was the hardest part. Watch your tabs and know where they're going before you put the pieces together. Make sure they are bent in the right direction. Then the back piece and the sails. The sails were a bit of a pain to get through the rigging. Have patience they do fit. So their you have it. I Jerry rigged the stand to work sort of. I made a little better when I got home. For $16 it's not a bad little model. Definitely an attention grabber. I'm sure Jack Sparr...er Captain Morgan would be proud.
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